Urban Suburban 1989 GMC Build

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Rally592

Observer
So picked up a bumper kit from another forum member here that you may recognize. Started tacking it all together and added the hoops around the headlights in 1.5” DOM. I have a JD32 bender that I used for the bends. Plan on powder coating the bumper a semi gloss black with slight texture. As seen in the Mule build thread just take your time and make sure everything is square. Hoops came out nice although I cut one too short even after measuring twice!

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R

Rally592

Observer
So once I had the front bumper welded I started making my roof rack. I cant buy one that I want for this truck (at least that I can afford) I wanted a wide one that was only 4-5 inches tall. Goal was to be able to stand on it. It is made with .75 DOM tube. As you fab guys know the hardest part of welding this kind of structure is not having it twist on you while welding. The actual fab only took a day to get it tacked. Then I spent a week going around welding small spots on joints to not have the thing warp on me. I have 4 inch square plates on the roof then welded plates and weld nuts underside the roof so it is serviceable if needed with headliner in. my goal was to be able to stand on it without damaging it. Also I wanted to haul plenty of gear along with my fishing Kayak, kids bikes etc. I built rails onto the inside of the rack so my old Thule rack from way back (made to clamp on to drip rails) would fit on it without mods and come on and off when needed. Used my JD32 bender on this rack along with a tubing notcher and ¾ hole saw. Took my time and made sure everything was correct. After all it was my 1st rack build! Total cost of rack was only about $150 in material and a bunch of time. Also I am having it powder coated along with bumper when all done.







 
R

Rally592

Observer
Pics of the Thule rack and rail system that is inboard. Basically the Thule comes almost 1.5 inches above the rack so I should be able to have my Fishing Kayak sit above the rack (and stuff under the kayak). The mounts on the back are for the highlift jack.



 
R

Rally592

Observer
I made an air deflector out of aluminum. Not sure how it will work but I figure it is better than nothing. It is just setting on the rack as I have not mounted it yet. Also notice the rack was powder coated along with the bumper (which is all wrapped up waiting to go back on the truck).



 
H

holl

New member
will you please post photos on how you attached the feet to the roof, especially the inside of the roof?
 
R

Rally592

Observer
holl said:
will you please post photos on how you attached the feet to the roof, especially the inside of the roof?
Click to expand...

actually it is all covered up now with insulation that is glued in place but i will try and describe it as best i can.
I put a plate to spread the load out over the roof and just welded nuts onto the plate and the welded the plate onto the roof. Basically the bottom plates are the same as the plates that are on top except with nuts welded on. . I used 5/16 weld nuts on the bottom then i used stainless button head allen bolts to bolt the rack on to the roof. (24 bolts total).
 
R

Rally592

Observer
Got bored and made my auxiliary battery tray for the driver’s side. I used a cheapy repo battery try from Taiwan and welded the supports to it. I am going to have it powder coated along with the stock original one.
Pic of battery tray.

 
R

Rally592

Observer
clandr1 said:
If you ever decide you want a factory setup, you can source factory driver side battery trays pretty easily. Here's a thread where a guy is selling them on CK5.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288928&highlight=battery+tray
Click to expand...

Thanks I did see those but I didn't want to spend $50. I spent I think $10 on the tray and then I had the metal laying around. I did have to move the evap canister slightly but overall I think it works, time we'll tell on strength etc.
 
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R

Rally592

Observer
Well after welding on roof the paint is in need of attention. I started by stripping out existing bondo on one back door and actually got another passenger rear door from junk yard for $25 (with glass!) as the old one was not worth being used. My goal with painting the truck is not to have a show vehicle but to have the paint stick and look decent. The white paint on this truck must be an old $99 paint job as it was coming off when you pressure wash it. I sanded off all white and used original paint kind of like a primer to block the vehicle for the slight waves while fixing the major dents.
Pics of beginning body work.






 
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