NW Gen 4 Transformation

Stevemc181

Observer
Hi All,

We bought this NW Pajero Activ back in November 2012, gotta love that new car smell! This is a 3.2Litre DiD Engine variant with Auto Transmission. We are planning a few offroad adventures and have been modding the vehicle within 1 week of buying it, we are nearly complete with our build, but as everyone knows, I don't think you ever stop finding bits and pieces to change/add to our pride and joys.

This is the Paj as she came off the showroom floor, standard with a Nudge bar, Tow bar, Rear Factory Diff Lock and Rear Air-conditioning.



We took her offroad on some fairly mild tracks within 3 days of buying her, gotta love those bush scratches on a brand new car! It was pretty evident early on that the ground clearance was woeful and the factory underbody protection is grossly inadequate.

This was her first outing and we did get to pull a Nissan out of a bog hole though, so not all was lost :) It was decided in fairly short order that a suspension lift was the first mod to be done. We ordered a set of Lovells 2" Heavy Duty raised springs and a set of Bilstein shocks to suit. At the same time we fitted a set of Bushskinz 4mm Underbody plates, Intercooler/Sump/Transmission protector plates along with a rear bar protector. The standard rear bar on these is like a giant plastic mud scoop and we had already bent it a couple of times dropping into mud holes.

Intercooler Guard:



Sump/transmission Guards:



Rear bar Protector: (Not the prettiest looking thing, but does the job well)




The springs and shocks made a hell of difference to the overall ride and feel of the Paj, it cornered far better and the 2" lift is great offroad. I was a bit worried the ride would be harsh with the heavy duty springs, but it was just superior in every way to the factory suspension.



Had to give her a run with the new suspension :)




I'd also fitted a UHF radio at this stage and just bought an angle bracket to attach the aerial through the grill, this was only a temp solution until further mods were done.




Around this time we headed off on 7500km family trip to Uluru (Ayers rock) and this is when the factory HT rated tyres showed their true colours, we were only on the dirt for around 100km's when we sliced open a sidewall on some rocks, we were towing a camper trailer and had 6 of us in the Paj, so she was pretty heavily loaded. I didn't feel comfortable completing the rest of the trip on these tyres and with hindsight should have changed them pre-trip, but money was tight so we took a chance and lost. The only suitable tyres I could get were Maxxis 700's A/T's but these were not LT rated. Unfortunately in Central Australia your choices are limited.

After this trip we continued with the mods, the next was an ARB Deluxe Bullbar:

So out with the old factory Nudge bar:



And in with the new ARB Bullbar:



I had read a few horror stories of guys getting really bad fitting jobs with these bars, particularly when it came to getting a nice even cut on the factory guards (fenders), I was happy with the job that ARB did fitting this bar, I did find a spare steel bracket which I am not sure what it was meant for sitting up on top of my airbox though and they also never put the front two bolts for my bash plates back in! Grrrr, seems to be the things with workshops nowadays, you need to double check their work everytime and make sure it's done right!



Next Mod on the list was my rear drawer system. I had looked at various build threads and had decided to mount my compressor and dual battery in a cavity at the front of the drawers:

First the drawer system:

I have been thinking for a while about making my own rear storage drawers and have been browsing the web looking at various options. Armed with some great ideas I decided to buy a small mig welder that came up on Gumtree for $75 and teach myself to weld.

image_zps54d9a18a.jpg


After a lot of burning of holes in pieces of tube while I played with the Mig, I got the hang of it after a few hours and figured I would make a start on the drawers. So with the help of my son we cut up some steel and set about tacking it all together. The steel of choice is 25x25x2.5mm SHS Tube. I went with the 2.5mm thick as it is a bit easier to weld for a novice like myself and is not much heavier than the 1.6 mm stuff.

After a few days of getting to it when we could, we ended up with the basic frame tacked and ready for welding.

image_zps13b84a01.jpg


The design evolved as we went, originally I had planned on using aluminium angles on the bottom for the drawers to slide on, but when I tried these I wasn't happy with how they worked so we decided to use 125kg rated draw slides. This required welding in a few more bits of steel to bolt the slides to.

image_zps3a1f7c86.jpg


Slides attached and a test fit in the rear of the Paj.

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Time to make up the drawers. I used 12 mm Ply for this but am planning on getting a set bent up in Aluminium down the track a bit.

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The onto the side wings, these were eventually attached with continuos piano hinges. I really wish I had some better gear to work with! A $20 Bunnings Jig saw makes this sort of stuff hard work! A nice band saw would be so much more accurate for the wings and side inserts.

image_zps5c6b439b.jpg


For holding it all down I removed the front and rear tie down points and drilled through the front of the frame and use 6mm high tensile bolts for the front and attached some removable 100x100 mm L brackets for the rear which also bolt down with 6mm high tensile bolts. I am not quite happy with using M6 and will probably drill these out for M10.

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The frame is 890mm deep and the drawers are 690mm, I have left a cavity at the rear of the drawers which is around 180mm, this is where I have mounted the ARB compressor and also have room for a DC-DC charger and distribution block down the track, I am thinking of going down the Lifepo4 path for my dual battery and will mount it in here also.

image_zps9ac6a963.jpg


The compressor is bolted in but not plumbed and wired yet. I'll be using 10mm SS316 tube from the compressor to the rear side panel to the quick release fitting I have mounted at the rear. This means I can use the standard ARB hose and reach all tyres as well as the trailer tyres from one point. The compressor switch will be mounted in the dash.

You can see the quick release air connection mounted in a recessed cavity on the drawer side section here:

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All up I have spent about $750 on materials but reckon I have wasted maybe $150 worth on stuff ups, but it's all a learning curve. I am reasonably happy with how the drawers have turned out but need to recut the passenger side rear panel as it is a few mm too narrow and also need to trim down the top of the drivers side rear panel as the door trim just hits it when closing. Before I do that I am buying a new jig saw!

The total weight is 69 kg, the rear seat weighs 23 kg so all up I have added 46 kg of weight. I used 12 mm ply all round and 18mm on the top, so I could probably save 10 kg or more using 6mm for the sides and aluminium drawers.

It is not the easiest unit to move in and out and takes about 20 minutes. 6 Bolts in total to remove. Really a 2 man job, but it can be done with one in a pinch.

Next project is to add the 70 Litre Water tank in the Rear Seat Well and 100a/h Lifepo4 Dual battery System, I'll post this up as time allows.
 
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Inyo_man

Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
Great work!
Very clean fabrication from the looks of it! Too bad about your trip into the Outback.
...really wish we could get the Gen IV Pajero here in the States, or at the very least the 3.2L DiD...
What model Bilsteins did you mate with the HD Lovells?
Cheers.
 

Jay Ayala

Explorer
Nice build. I wasn't aware that there was a 4th Gen Montero. Perhaps it is not offered in the US market.


1989 Dodge Raider 3.0L
1997 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5L
 

Stevemc181

Observer
Great work!
Very clean fabrication from the looks of it! Too bad about your trip into the Outback.
...really wish we could get the Gen IV Pajero here in the States, or at the very least the 3.2L DiD...
What model Bilsteins did you mate with the HD Lovells?
Cheers.

The Bilsteins are the 4600 Series, 46mm Monotube Model # 24-062725. I haven't heard of too many issues with these, apart from one I saw that had melted the dust covers to the shock, I've covered around 40,000km's with these now and still holding up well, but I have also installed some Polyair adjustable air bags in the rear, as I am generally running quite heavy and she was drooping a bit with the trailer on the rear. I'll post up about these a bit later on.

Nice build. I wasn't aware that there was a 4th Gen Montero. Perhaps it is not offered in the US market.


1989 Dodge Raider 3.0L
1997 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5L

Yep, mine is the 3rd model in the Gen 4 (NW) series (Gen 4-3) They have just released the (NX) Gen 4-4 here in Australia and we are expecting a Gen 5 maybe late next year. The Gen 4-4 is really just some cosmetic changes, same running gear etc.
 

Stevemc181

Observer
Water Tank

I was thinking of what do with the rear seat well under the drawers and thought I'd throw a water tank in there. The tank of choice is a custom made job from a Company called Abber tanks, it is a 70 Litre tank and shaped to fit the slope in the rear well, I was a little out on my dimensions and had it made a few mm too high, not to worry, it just meant I couldn't fit the floor cover back in place. This is not a problem though as the drawers are now a permanent fixture as it is a bit of a job to remove them the way I have done my wiring and dual battery system.

I left enough room on one side to install a pump and water filter:



The Pump is a Surflow pressure activated 11.4lpm unit and the filter is a B.E.S.T silver filter, gets rid of 99% of any bacteria etc, the tank itself is made of food grade poly, so adds no taste to the water.



I was wondering what to do regarding the filler and outlet options and decided on adding a standard kitchen flick mixer tap and a caravan style water filler inlet. You can't see the filler too well in the pic, but its behind the tap (faucet). I also have a small digital inline monitor attached that lets me know exactly how many litres I have left in the tank. It's just a matter of resetting the meter when I fill the tank and it counts the litres used.



The tank is great and makes carrying large volumes of water easy, we have vast stretches here in Australia without suitable drinking water supplies, but I still carry 10 litres in small separate containers in case of a ruptured tank etc. It can mean the difference between life and death in some of our more isolated spots. There is always a fridge full of beer in case its a real emergency and urgent Thirst Aid is required ;)
 

jhill15

Explorer
Your truck is very sweet! Love the bilsteins. I had them in my xterra and loved em! Can we get the lovell springs here in the states?

:subscribed:
 

Inyo_man

Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
Very slick water set-up!
How is the tank secured in place?
Is it attached to the floor with through bolts?
 

Stevemc181

Observer
Very slick water set-up!
How is the tank secured in place?
Is it attached to the floor with through bolts?

I have a couple of brackets on the left side of it to stop sideways movement and I just use a piece of Marine Ply as a packer underneath the frame of my drawers in the centre of the tank to hold it down. The drawers bolt down very securely and hold it in place. I was going to use some kind of steel strap over the top, but the drawers do a good enough job of holding it in there. I've been on some extremely rough roads/tracks and it has never moved.
 

Stevemc181

Observer
Ok, After fitting the water tank, I then turned my attention to the roof rack. The factory rails on the Pajero are only rated to carry 100Kg. The problem is this rating is not for offroad use and is only for smooth roads. There have been a few instances I have heard of where the factory rails have caused issues when on extended offroad trips.

On the roof I use a Rhino brand rooftop bag for packing gear in and also have a 2nd spare wheel as well as recovery tracks, Jerry can, Shovel, Gas Bottle etc. With the combined weight of my roofrack and gear, I am looking at around 100-120kg. This concerned me as I was planning on some extended trips on extremely corrugated roads, to give you an idea of the sort of country I will be travelling through, the Simpson desert has over 1100 Parallel sand dunes in roughly a 500km stretch, and one of the roads I am taking to get there is around 1300km's of the roughest corrugations in Australia, (The Anne Beadell hwy) I wanted to minimise the chances of problems so elected to remove the factory rails and put a heavy Duty Track system in it's place.

The Roofrack is a custom made Alloy rack by a local fabricator in Perth (Midland Marine) I also had them weld in some brackets to mount my front and rear lightbars.



The next pic shows the track system, but the crossbars are not required for mounting my rack. I am not 100% happy that the tracks are riveted instead of bolted. I'll see how this goes and if required I'll drop the roof lining and use Stainless steel bolts and Nylok Nuts.



Since this photo was taken, I have raised the rack slightly to give me more clearance for the lightbar (Lightbar is a Chinese Soye 400watt single row (40x10watt cree's) damn bright!



The rear light is an 80watt from the same manufacturer.



As you can see in this pic, the manufacturer drilled his mounting brackets a little too low for the lightbar. While the rack is alloy, the mounting feet are steel, so I just drilled a couple of extra holes and lifted it up a bit higher. The lightbar mounting works well and I get no bonnet glare.



I have an open carport at home that had a useless garage roller door on it, this meant I couldn't fit under it with a 2" lift + the roofrack, so my solution was to throw away the garage door :) If it comes times to build my garage in, I'll dig up the concrete and drop the floor level as I am too lazy to remove the rack all the time.
 

Inyo_man

Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
I am not 100% happy that the tracks are riveted instead of bolted. I'll see how this goes and if required I'll drop the roof lining and use Stainless steel bolts and Nylok Nuts.

Nice work on the rack and the mounting brackets! Fabricating up brackets to eliminate the crossbars is on my list-of-things-to-do.
I thought the same thing about the rivets in the Rhino tracks. I ended up installing three stainless bolts with nylok on each track. One on each end and one in the middle, between I filled in with the rivets.
Looks great, thanks for sharing!
 

Stevemc181

Observer
Lifepo4 Aux battery

The next thing on my list was mounting the 100a/h Lifepo4 aux battery.

I had created a cavity at the front of the drawers specifically to house my compressor/distribution block and Lifepo4 battery.

This is the battery I purchased, complete with BMS, I have been running this system now for around 6 months with a rear mounted engel fridge that is always turned on and I also run my compressor/lightbars/camp led's etc from here.






The components in the drawer cavity are as follows:
EV-Power EVP12V100AH battery
BCUPPAK- which will monitor the individual cells and shut down the battery if a problem is detected.
DC-DC Charger, Not shown in this pic
Additional Low Voltage Cutoff - This is probably not required, but is there in the event that the BCU-PPak fails. One over charge or over discharge on a lifepo4 can kill the battery and trust me it wasn't cheap.
Blueseas safety hub distribution box
2 x Led lightbar digital driver units
ARB CKMP12 compressor (SS316 Tube and fittings to rear mounted quick connect)
Current Shunt feeding a dash mounted Victron BMV-702 Monitor. This gives me the full stats on the lifepo4 including historical data and monitors the main battery voltage. basically this monitor tells me everything I need to know about how the Lifepo4 is performing.

The battery itself weighs 14kg and can be safely discharged to 80%DOD even as low as 90% DOD in a pinch. The voltage will remain above 12v until around 90%DOD. I am expecting around a ten year lifespan from this battery, only time will tell I guess. The Redarc charger is not lifepo4 specific but the charge curve on the Gel setting is close enough.



After getting it all fitted into the drawers it was time to bling it up a bit, so I added the smoked plexiglass sliding doors and some led's for effect.






I had a fair few headaches along the way as I added bits and pieces and one day will remove it all again to simplify my wiring a bit.
 
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Stevemc181

Observer
Nice work on the rack and the mounting brackets! Fabricating up brackets to eliminate the crossbars is on my list-of-things-to-do.
I thought the same thing about the rivets in the Rhino tracks. I ended up installing three stainless bolts with nylok on each track. One on each end and one in the middle, between I filled in with the rivets.
Looks great, thanks for sharing!

Yep, sounds like the go, I was actually surprised when I realised they riveted it on, made me wish I had done it myself in the first place.
 

Stevemc181

Observer
Dash switches

Next on the list was to get rid of the useless card holder in the Dash and replace it with something useful and install a new UHF along with some nice laser etched led switches for the accessories.



The UHF is a remote head mic unit with the head unit mounted underneath the centre console.
I bought the Laser etched switches from OTTRATW in the states, as they have a much larger range and are cheaper than local options.



I made way for the Victron monitor by moving the rear Diff lock switch over next to the ASC switch to the lower left near the steering column.




I had bought some switch connector blocks from ebay which were totally useless, but I already had the dash apart, so just did a temp job on the wiring of the switches, this has now been rectified with switch blocks also bought from OTTRATW and is much neater than this picture shows. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics at the time. That's the only problem when using LED switches with upper and lower independent lights, it makes for a lot of wiring with 5 wires for each switch.



The switch earths are all running back to a common negative busbar attached behind the dash to a suitable earth point.



Please excuse the terrible iPhone pic of the switches at night, they don't glow as bright as what they appear in this pic.



I am pretty over pulling the dash apart in this vehicle, but it will be removed one more time when I try a solution for the terrible dash shake the Gen 4's are known to suffer from. I had read on a South African forum of a possible solution involving bending up some brackets and installing them to assist with the dash stability. My dash shakes so much on corrugated roads that the wipers and indicators will sometime turn themselves on.

I had a friend manufacture up a couple of brackets in 5mm Stainless Steel for me to the same dimensions mentioned on the SA Pajero forum.



Unfortunately I have no pics of the install, but these are bolted in on each side of the MMCS entertainment unit behind the dashboard and secured top and bottom with M6 Bolts, it does seem to have helped with the dash shake, but I haven't really had a chance to get on some extended corrugations with them yet. I will be heading off in a couple of weeks and will travel several thousand km's on severely corrugated tracks, so hopefully they help.
 

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