How many miles are to many when looking for an LR3? I have found some very clean 2005's with 95-120K on the clock. If they have been maintained well is this mileage problematic or ok? Any thing else to look out for? I realize this has probably been asked before but i used the search function and couldn't find anything. Thanks in advance for the help.
LR3 Questions
- Thread starter cycleman4
- Start date
GORM
Adventurer
Couple things:
Check air suspension - quick check is to look for truck bottomed out when you go to see the truck. Do searches on "LR3 on access height in morning" and the like including front air valve and "losing height". When you start truck check to see whether truck raises in height. If it does it indicates a possible leak somewhere. There may be a simple cure or the reason it is being sold. Truck should not drop more than 1/4 to 1/2" in height over night. I just bought a '08 with 70k and had initial issues that I was able to correct (mitigate significantly) for $0 - better to be lucky than good.
Consider the short and long term effects of getting SE with 18" wheels or an HSE with 19" wheels. Off road tire choices blow on the 19s in comparison to the 18s. If you're going to convert down to 17s, hey, sky is the limit but understand Ty tire/wheel issue.
Check drivers side rear cargo area (opposite spare tire wrench and jack) for trailer hitch - this part is expensive ($450) though some after markets seem to exist. I have to spend that $ so I can bring my bike to the park (crap).
I believe the '07 and on has a new engine format - do your research, someone more knowledgeable than me simply recommended I consider newer ones for that reason and followed their advice.
Oh, last thing ... some patience. These are real basic .... But things that might be helpful.
Check air suspension - quick check is to look for truck bottomed out when you go to see the truck. Do searches on "LR3 on access height in morning" and the like including front air valve and "losing height". When you start truck check to see whether truck raises in height. If it does it indicates a possible leak somewhere. There may be a simple cure or the reason it is being sold. Truck should not drop more than 1/4 to 1/2" in height over night. I just bought a '08 with 70k and had initial issues that I was able to correct (mitigate significantly) for $0 - better to be lucky than good.
Consider the short and long term effects of getting SE with 18" wheels or an HSE with 19" wheels. Off road tire choices blow on the 19s in comparison to the 18s. If you're going to convert down to 17s, hey, sky is the limit but understand Ty tire/wheel issue.
Check drivers side rear cargo area (opposite spare tire wrench and jack) for trailer hitch - this part is expensive ($450) though some after markets seem to exist. I have to spend that $ so I can bring my bike to the park (crap).
I believe the '07 and on has a new engine format - do your research, someone more knowledgeable than me simply recommended I consider newer ones for that reason and followed their advice.
Oh, last thing ... some patience. These are real basic .... But things that might be helpful.
roverandom
Adventurer
LR3 can get to high mileage without major issue. Overall they did improve year on year however and (as well as being older) an 05 will have more potential design issues than an 06 or 07.
My 2c.
My 2c.
They can cover huge miles with the right care.
Simple guide.
For 100k, i would expect to change or see proof that they have been done.
Autobox oil flush. Should be every 75k really. Make sure it's done! It's cheaper than a new box.
Front wheel bearings, it's heavy, they wear out. Simple to change.
Front lower arms, a clunk over bumps is the ball joints. A knock under braking is the bushes. Cut arm off and fit new one with new fixings. RRS ones are better design.
Front drop links can go. Cheap and easy to change. However, if the nuts have rusted. ( like mine were ) get a garage to do it.
Lower steering column, goes stiff as it ages. Seems to be a 05-07 thing. Easy to sort.
Rear upper arms. These wear out on the bushes, change to RRS arms as it's a better design.
Rear hub bushes. Just age and wear. Change them when you do the arms.
Rear lower arms, i've had mine done at 117k, because they were worn. I've had people who have had the uppers alone and have driven mine and wished they had done what i did.
Brake lines. Good old British stupidity ( I'm British, i'm allowed to say that
lol ) The rear lines rust and are made from steel. Change to copper.
Things to check.
Rear propshaft bearing, give it a shake as mine was shot at 121k.
Battery and alternator. They NEED a good battery and a strong alternator. They can throw all sorts of moody huffs, ( think a pregnant woman ) if one of those start to fail.
I got one at 98k, it's sitting at 128k now. I've done all the above on mine and it drives like new again. It handles really well and
Simple guide.
For 100k, i would expect to change or see proof that they have been done.
Autobox oil flush. Should be every 75k really. Make sure it's done! It's cheaper than a new box.
Front wheel bearings, it's heavy, they wear out. Simple to change.
Front lower arms, a clunk over bumps is the ball joints. A knock under braking is the bushes. Cut arm off and fit new one with new fixings. RRS ones are better design.
Front drop links can go. Cheap and easy to change. However, if the nuts have rusted. ( like mine were ) get a garage to do it.
Lower steering column, goes stiff as it ages. Seems to be a 05-07 thing. Easy to sort.
Rear upper arms. These wear out on the bushes, change to RRS arms as it's a better design.
Rear hub bushes. Just age and wear. Change them when you do the arms.
Rear lower arms, i've had mine done at 117k, because they were worn. I've had people who have had the uppers alone and have driven mine and wished they had done what i did.
Brake lines. Good old British stupidity ( I'm British, i'm allowed to say that
lol ) The rear lines rust and are made from steel. Change to copper. Things to check.
Rear propshaft bearing, give it a shake as mine was shot at 121k.
Battery and alternator. They NEED a good battery and a strong alternator. They can throw all sorts of moody huffs, ( think a pregnant woman ) if one of those start to fail.
I got one at 98k, it's sitting at 128k now. I've done all the above on mine and it drives like new again. It handles really well and
nwoods
Expedition Leader
My thoughts, circa 2008 or so:
http://lr3tips.wordpress.com/2008/09/11/buying-a-used-lr3-v6-or-v8-which-options-cautions/
http://lr3tips.wordpress.com/2008/09/11/buying-a-used-lr3-v6-or-v8-which-options-cautions/
h2os2
Adventurer
Another common problem on the LR3 is the rear upper tailgate may not open. There isn't any warning, it won't open one day. It's expensive to fix through a dealer or indo shop. After hearing the quote to fix it, did it myself. It can be a **********, if it's hot outside. They are still fun trucks to drive off and on road, just have a few quirks.
I guess if you are paying labor. The part is like $75 and takes about an hour to replace. Honestly everyone should just replace it as preventative maintenance every 40k
Jwestpro
Explorer
So what "part" is the culprit? I assume it must be the electric motor/release or a switch.
The cheap pot metal "L" that is fused on the end of the cable. It is simply too weak and breaks at the 90 degree bend. The "L" hooks into a tab that is pulled to release the latch.
