Dual battery setup, one main and 2 aux batteries???

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
A good solar controller for what you're doing would be the Morningstar SunSaver Duo. It's a PWM controller, usually comes with the Morningstar RM-1 remote control panel, and does two batteries or banks. Controller with optional control panel generally runs around $125-$150.

You can set dip switches to control the bias between banks, for instance 90/10 or 50/50. Say you set it 90/10 bias toward the main battery. 90% will go to the main battery and 10% to the aux battery, until the main is topped off (won't take long, probably be done with just the bit of power you get in the morning before the true good sun hits the panels), then 100% will go to the aux battery. That's the way to make sure your main battery is always topped off and ready to start the truck
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
The root cause of failure is yet unknown.

Probably internal arcing lighting off a bit of hydrogen and oxygen inside the battery from the electrolysis that happens whenever there is a charge current running through the battery.
 

jeffjeeptj

Adventurer
Since the sears platinum marine 31m is an Odyssey, look at the Odyssey website. They have a battery manual, a charge curve for each battery, and a list of recommended chargers sorted by brand with odyssey battery size limits.
While the OP does not want to use shore power, the info should be digested and evaluated. Odyssey does like a lot of amps during the bulk phase.
I have gone down the similar road where I park and set up a generator with the odyssey 3bank 50 amp charger, when i decide to charge. My sears and Odysseys seem to like that a lot.
It is interesting to watch the info on the charger as the batteries fill back up. IIRC, the charger is made by Schumacher, labeled as Odyssey. Not surprisingly, the charge curve precisely matches the Odyssey battery tech sheet.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Arcing within a topped up flooded cell ? hard to say..
I suspect isolation failure between plates then a run-away condition as plates heat up & warp further. Its unknown yet if detailed exam is planned.

Yea, could be.

But I would think that would be a bit slower of a process and probably wouldn't blow big chunks off the case. Takes hydrogen and oxygen to make it go boom, and it takes a spark to make that happen.

Also, dead shorted would probably have overloaded the charger.


Anyway overall point, Reminder of battery danger !
Especially so of our camper batreries, often installed & operated under a homebrew seat of the pants sort of engineering.
Strictly number wise, disaster rare, but...

One big lesson,, keep batteries enclosed. Especially so if they are worked hard.
That 15"x15" fire control room floor, walls & overhead fixtures coated in acid mist & battery residue.


Aye. I like having both main and aux under the hood. Also lets me justify not spending any money on fuses or breakers for the big battery cables since those are all under the hood too.
 

osidepunker

Adventurer
Knowing that I need to keep weight down on my truck, what do you guys think of these? I was thinking of going with two of em:

100w bendable solar

still researching charge controllers... From what I can tell, PWM should be good enough for me. thoughts?

Anybody think its a problem to mount two batteries in the bed next to four jerry cans of fuel? :D
(joking. I need to figure out a different spot)
 

Joe917

Explorer
PMW is fine for 200 Watts of panels, hard to go wrong with MorningStar.
$2 a watt is expensive, especially for a panel with only a 5 year warranty.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Those look like pretty good solar panels. Keep in mind that the panel itself bends, but unlike a thin-film panel, the glass mono crystalline solar cells on the Renogy DON'T bend. Only the backing bends.

Also, you can walk on the thin-film panels, but I doubt you can walk on the Renogys.
 

osidepunker

Adventurer
PMW is fine for 200 Watts of panels, hard to go wrong with MorningStar.
$2 a watt is expensive, especially for a panel with only a 5 year warranty.

You think they are expensive considering how light they are? Everything cheaper seems to weigh like 20lbs /100watts. Ill check out the morning star

Those look like pretty good solar panels. Keep in mind that the panel itself bends, but unlike a thin-film panel, the glass mono crystalline solar cells on the Renogy DON'T bend. Only the backing bends.

Also, you can walk on the thin-film panels, but I doubt you can walk on the Renogys.

Thats pretty much what I thought. I kinda figured I would have to be careful with them. I imagine they will mostly be on the awning or tent roof with bungees so no big deal. When we roll out, Ill slip em in the cab somewhere safe.

Hopefully they arent too fragile. I havent run across anyone complaining about breaking them in the amazon reviews

You have any opinions on charge controllers?
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Charge controllers? Can't go wrong with Morningstar. Excellent quality, durable products from an employee owned company. And at a decent price.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I would do that except my aux batteries will be somewhere in the bed of the truck. Too far away

You can get 20' cables. I have jumped my starting battery from the house bank before. My house batteries are in the back of my cab (92 F350 Crewcab). They reached with no problem; probably the longest truck ever made, lol.
 

osidepunker

Adventurer
This is still going down. Gonna buy parts next week. 82q ARB fidge, 200 (ish) watts solar, another 31M, IBS controller

Still need to source:

Wiring
buss bars or terminal blocks for the main battery
Relay/fuse box
solar charge controller
battery boxes
3000w invertor
AC and DC receptacles for the bumper
heavy amperage fuses
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Look around the 12v forum. You will find lots of threads on:

-- Reusing jumper cables
-- Terminal Post fuses (Blue Sea and perhaps others)
-- Good brands and dealers of solar gear. (Morning Star, Blue Sky, and AM Solar in Oregon.)

Etc.
 

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