Canter Fire

dlh62c

Explorer
All great points brought up in this thread. Another one which I didn't see mentioned, is ensuring you have the right gauge wire for the current draw and length and being conservative by choosing larger gauge wherever you are close to the design limits.

Securing the wiring and electrical components such batteries, inverters, power distribution boxes and fuse panels is equally important. You don't want components to shift, grind or rub.

Following some basic marine ABYC Standards isn't a bad thing!
 
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nick disjunkt

Adventurer
Mercedes use magnetic breakers that fit in the traditional blade slots on my 03 truck. Perhaps they'd make a reasonably simple upgrade?
 

Haf-E

Expedition Leader
For 12 and 24 vdc systems (like used in overland vehicles) I would advise using either marine or solar type breakers instead of just a switch - this allows them to work automatically (perhaps) when a problem occurs - but, for the larger sizes (over 100 amps) it is possible that they would not trip... but that is why using a breaker is nice as you can access the handle on them and shut them off.

I've had a breaker panel in my sprinter for about 11 years now with a 250 amp breaker for my inverter, a 100 amp breaker for the connection to the vehicle alternator / battery (via an isolator relay), a 60 amp breaker for my solar and a 20 amp for my fridge. Need to still add a couple of more breakers for DC outlets - currently just using inline fuses. I've never had them trip off from vibration or shock - and I have driven many bad roads (even with bad shocks for a bit).

Look for them from companies like "airpax" or "carlingswitch" or "heinemann" and the best prices are probably on line from solar / inverter suppliers.
 

gait

Explorer
Mercedes use magnetic breakers that fit in the traditional blade slots on my 03 truck. Perhaps they'd make a reasonably simple upgrade?

thanks. I can find thermal breaker replacement, where else than Merc can I find magnetic?

My interest is because once the short circuit occurred in my original truck wiring a blade fuse melted rather than blew. The circuit was made even when I removed what was left of the fuse. (I found that after I'd disconnected the battery).
 

libarata

Expedition Leader
Just be careful with the gaseous extinguishers in small spaces. you can seriously injure yourself if you displace too much of the oxygen.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I have the heavy duty Class T fuses.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/Fuses/Class_T_Fuses

5502.jpg
 

Gatsma

Adventurer
Man, ya gotta love that for heavy duty, high-capacity simplicity! Did NOT know they even existed.....
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
Yeah pretty simple right - anything other than a dead short and you don't even know it's there.
 

LeishaShannon

Adventurer
5191.png


These are quite handy too, we use one on our start battery.

Our 8kWh Lithium house battery has the Class T fuse pugslyyy posted. They're the only type of circuit protection with an AIC rating high enough to safely break a dead short across big battery packs.
 

pugslyyy

Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
5191.png


These are quite handy too, we use one on our start battery.

Our 8kWh Lithium house battery has the Class T fuse pugslyyy posted. They're the only type of circuit protection with an AIC rating high enough to safely break a dead short across big battery packs.

Yeah, it's definitely something to think about - a dead short across my house batteries could deliver over 800 Amps at 12Volts for half an hour. Without something to interrupt it, dumping that much power in that short a time is going to burn up pretty much anything.
 

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