Problem with Fuso in China

[Andrew123]

Hi All,
I have a 2008 FUSO FG84 and I'm in China heading to Mongolia. I had an issue last week where I climbed to the top of a hill and the truck died. With some investigation, we found the starter motor was shot, so I got one in from Thailand. There were still problems with the engine making popping and cracking sounds every sporadically. I assume this is to do with fuel injection or similar.
The truck has gone into limp mode, which means it won't go above 2000RPM. It gets around OK, (except for the popping and cracking sounds every now and again). The problem is I can't get it out of limp mode and the diagnostic programme for FUSO FG is hard, if not impossible to find in China.
To add to the complication, the engine is not turning over well when it starts. I have had to roll start it a couple of times because the battery winds down. I know the battery is full though. I am not sure whether this may be related to the injector issue or not.

I have reconditioned FG injectors and I am considering to use those to replace the existing ones and see if it makes a difference. Does anyone know if it will mess with the amount of fuel being injected and whether it might take it out of limp mode?

Any advice appreciated, Thanks.

 

[mog]

You might want to change your fuel filter (the one by the engine). More then one operator has reported a clogged filter has put their Fuso into limp mode.
You might be able to do a computer reset just by using the 'clear' connector under your dash.
Do you have a Fuso maintenance manual ? It will show the locations and procedures.
.
A member here on the ExpoPortal Gait had some ECU problems in Kirgyzstan.
There is a thread HERE that might give you some ideas.
I've sent you a PM.
Also there is a Portal section for "Japanese Heavy Truck Mitsubishi and Isuzu" which gets all the Fuso action.
I've made a post there, directing help to this thread. Normally double posts are not a good idea as answers end up in two places, but in this case with you needing help as soon as possible in a far away land, I'm guessing we will be OK.

 

[pugslyyy]

Do you have an obd2 reader? You really need to know what the code is that is causing limp.

I've had limp multiple times due to low fuel pressure but always been able to clear it with my generic obd2 dongle and torque app

 

[gait]

well spotted Mog!

not good Andrew! Nothing worse than being a long way from support and an added language barrier. Its not only that there aren't many Mitsu diagnostics testers in China its also that there isn't much experience of the vehicle. The bad news is that this sort of problem doesn't fix itself and may get worse. The good news - isn't China a wonderful country to travel in.

I have an FG649 2005 so not too familiar with engine and electronics on FG84. My problems in Kyrgistan and Tibet were altitude related and went away when I descended. But here goes.

First thing. Hopefully someone can provide an electronic copy (pdf) of the service manual. Group 13 Fuel and Engine Control is probably the section you need.

If you are lucky there are two wires, or better still switches or fuses, near the OBDII connector under the dashboard. If even luckier they are labeled. Memory Clear Switch and Diagnostics Switch. Mine has wires with in line connectors, later models are shown as "switch" in the electrical diagram. If you need a photo post here. I can provide mine but others will hopefully have same model as yours.

In the manual is a description of how to use these two wires to change the dashboard engine warning light to show "blink codes". I'll look up the manual for mine and post later - though it may have changed slightly for later models.

When blinking the number of flashes can be counted. There are long and short blinks. If I recall correctly long ones first are the first digit, short ones second are the second digit. Repeated three times. My unit stored the last 5 diagnostic codes. Paper and pen helped. Easy to read with a bit of practice. It starts at the beginning again when it gets to the end. Be thorough and methodical, once erased they are gone.

The codes can then be looked up in the manual (beware, the blink codes can be different to the diagnostic codes a Mitsubishi OBDII tool would show.

The diagnostic codes will need "interpreting". For example, one of my codes was "engine running backwards" which was patently nonsense. The more useful preceding one was "low boost pressure". Sadly, don't expect too much. The origins of all this stuff are in pollution control not engine maintenance and a lot of the diagnostics relates more to sensor failure than engine failure.

Once the diagnositc codes have been read (they may be useful diagnosing the root cause) then the unit can be cleared using a combination of diagnostic switch and memory clear switch. I believe it will clear limp mode, but of course doesn't solve any underlying problem which the computer will detect when engine started and possibly return to limp mode.

It can be useful after the first reading of codes (one doesn't know how old the codes are) to clear then restart engine and if/when the warning light comes on again then read the codes which are then most likely associated with current problem.

I'd suggest establishing a "physical supply line" if you don't have one. A postal address somewhere about two weeks in front of you. Your Chinese guide and agency "should" be able to help. Its part of what we pay the big bucks for. Maybe their head office then forward. If getting close to Mongolian border then a hotel in Ulaan Bhatar or the Overlanders Campsite may work.

I haven't (my model is too early) but I believe "some people" have reported success with a genuine ELM327 based OBDII connector to laptops etc. with later Canters. I'm slow to post. Looks like Puggslyyyy may have been "some people" and may provide details. I have one of the same type of reader and can post it (or courier) it to you if you have an address. Allow up to 5 days for Fedex courier from Brisbane to (say) Chengdhu.

So ..... what's the engine? and does anyone have a pdf copy of the section of the manual with the diagnostic stuff in it (section 13 hopefully)? And specific details of an ELM327 based OBDII reader that will work with the FG84.

 

[gait]

instructions for seeing blink codes with my 4D34 (FG649) engine ...... edit See later post for 4M5 engine

Turn ignition switch on
Disconnect the diagnostic switch
Count the flashes

that gives you current diagnostic (trouble) code. Here's how to read, then past codes, then erase (and get out of limp I believe).

 

[gait]

silly question .... how good is your internet Andrew? I ask so you don't become inundated with large files attached to emails that are impossible to download. There are ways round it. Forgive me if you've already thought of it.

 

[gait]

on the starting problems, maybe check all the electrical connections from battery to starter motor, and earth connections, particularly the really heavy earth strap (if there is one) from near starter motor.

 

[gait]

here's how to see and clear the blink codes for a 4M5 engine Australia (which is possibly what you have in your FG84)

looks like they moved the diagnostic and memory clear switches into the fusebox. This is from group 00 of the engine manual, the codes are in group 13 for engine, and "somewhere else" (sorry) for ABS.

 

[gait]

just in case you have limited internet / time etc, and waiting for replies can be a pain with time differences, here's more of a a punt on it being a 4M5 engine - the blink codes. Tread carefully, its hard to find definitive information and there can be different versions.

There's not too much help in them (as explained earlier) but there are some relating to injectors and fuel pressure which may be present when you read the blinks.

I have a suspicion that before putting into blink mode "orange" is a warning and "red" is limp mode - not sure, I only have one light. If "red" is limp then there are few causes, one of which is blink code 22 or 23 (Common Rail Pressure Defect).

If I was near home I would simply replace the fuel filter (as has been suggested). When days or weeks away from help I prefer to know the cause first so I'd at least read the blink codes and see if they are any use before erasing.

Apologies if this is all too verbose or irrelevant. If it helps, I carried electronic service manuals (which could be and were wrong) plus I had a contact in my local Brisbane Mitsubishi dealer (useful for part numbers as local Mitsu/Fuso dealers usually have to ask Germany which takes a few days and can be wrong) plus empathetic friends (useful for sending stuff like parts) and forums (for advice and knowledge) for this sort of help.

 

[gait]

to possibly save you a bit of trouble locating a fuel filter

the thread starts on oil filters but later is fuel filters. Invaluable bit for me was "they are all M20 x 1.5mm" plus a very long list of equivalents. May save removing old one for "have you got one of these?".

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...-purchase-for-a-2006-FG?highlight=fuel+filter

I don't know where your hand priming pump is. Essential to know before changing fuel filter if you are having starter motor problems. On mine its below the main fuel pump. On later it may be integrated in the water separator.

Hopefully, if you don't know already, someone else will know and post.

Again, apologies if this is overkill Andrew. My experience in your position was that more info was better than less.

 

[biggoolies]

Change the fuel filter. When you do, make sure you fill up the canister where the fuel filter is in with diesel or you will be pumping the diesel in with the plunger on top for a long time before it starts. Take off your battery connections and scrape and clean them and put them back on.

 

[gait]

just in case ... here's what the 4M5 manual says for blink codes 22 and 23. Low pressure is 22, high pressure is 23.

I have trouble reading this stuff, for me I see an inconsistency between the red/orange light description previously and this information about "throttle control is stopped" and "engine stopped". Perhaps because there's no mention of "limp".

 

[Andrew123]

Thanks for all the advice, manuals, etc. I don't have much time, so just a quick reply.
The filter was changed just 2 weeks ago, but will have a look again. I don't have an obd2 reader. I will look into where to get one.
The injectors have just been replaced, (I had some spare ones). They looked pretty dirty.
Have found a problem with the starter motor I just bought from Thailand. About to find a place that will hopefully fix it.

I will keep you posted.

 

[Scott Brady]

Again, apologies if this is overkill Andrew. My experience in your position was that more info was better than less.

First class responses. Thanks for helping a fellow traveler in need

 

[dlh62c]

Could you have a tank full of bad diesel fuel?

The easiest way to clear the check engine light codes is to use an auto scan tool, but lacking one can prove problematic. The codes are stored in the electronic control module's stay alive memory.

When you disconnect the battery from the vehicle to reset the check engine light; the computer will be able to hold the memory and the code for several minutes and in some cases several hours. Battery voltage is stored in a capacitor and is supplied to the computer to keep the internal memory alive. The way around this is to disconnect the battery and then hold down on the horn button. Or DISCONNECT BOTH battery terminals and short them together.

Holding down on the horn button will drain the electrical current that is stored in the control modules capacitor. The horn circuit is a ‘hot at all times circuit'. It's alive regardless of where the ignition key is! This will reset check engine light on most models, but I'm not sure on a FUSO.

When you do this you'll be erasing all memory learned by the computer. When you reconnect the battery on the vehicle and confirm the reset check engine light procedure has been successful you may find the engine idle erratic for several drive cycles. This is because idle learn data has been erased along with the check engine light code. This problem is usually short-term and will correct itself after driving the vehicle for a few miles at highway speeds. Also note if the check engine light comes back on after this reset check engine light procedure you have a hard failure code. This is when a failure is constant and will need diagnosis.

Often when one has difficulty trouble shooting a problem, there are more than one failure mode present.

Good Luck!