Point Five Ambo Build

EXPO365

Adventurer
One other item I would like to mention, is a rather large knife I purchased to go with this kit. I have been following this tool since it's inception by it's inventor Andy Tran, back in 2013. It's called the 'Tahoma Field Knife', and is manufactured by TOPS Knives completely in the USA. No Chinese junk here!

TOPS Tahoma Field Knife
O/A Length : 13 15/16"
Top Edge : 2 3/4"
Actual Cutting Edge : 7 5/16"
Thickness : 3/16"
Steel : 1095 High Carbon Steel RC 56-58
Handle : Tan Canvas Micarta
Blade Finish : Black River Wash
Sheath : Ballistic Nylon
Weight : 1lb 2oz
Weight w/ Sheath : 1lb 8.3 oz


View attachment 297341

View attachment 297342


The TFK ships from TOPS Knives with their free generic black nylon sheath, which is OK for basic use, but nothing to write home about. Kydex sheaths are available on Andy's website for an additional cost. However, I contacted the guy who makes the Kydex sheaths for Andy, and I'm going to have him build one specifically for me because I want some custom features added of my own.

Here is a short overview video, which explains all of it's features.


When I started looking I asked myself, 'If I could only carry one tool larger than a pocket knife or multitool, what would it be?' After reviewing all of the possible scenarios, and based on my 40 plus years of camping, backpacking, rock climbing, kayak and canoeing experience, I decided on this knife. This is a fine piece of craftsmanship as well as an extremely durable tool that will probably outlast me if taken care of properly.

I haven't had a chance to actually test it in the woods yet, but I did manage to cut myself with it within 24 hours of owning it! Yeah, that baby is sharp! Actually, I was attempting to resheath it, and not being used to double sided blades, the top edge nicked my thumb as I was holding the straps out of the way. All the more reason for a custom made Kydex sheath.

Sources...

Inerbark Outdoors (Andy's website) - http://www.inner-bark.com/

TOPS Knives - https://www.topsknives.com/

Redfeather Custom Kydex Holsters and Sheaths - http://redfeathergear.com/

TFK on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/TOPS-Hunting-...sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1430934976&sr=1-62

I'm diggin it!

I don't wanna hijack this thread but....If you (or anybody really) is ever in the market for a knife built to order let me know, I'm a part time maker. I primarily build folders but I'll be starting to focus on fixed blades in 2016.

Here are a few pics of my work.

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rlrenz

Explorer
OUCH - a summer to remember...

Pat, if I was faced with a summer from Hades, one thing I would do ASAP is jurry-rig an air conditioner on your ambulance.

Nothing fancy - plywood and duct tape for whatever enclosure is needed combined with a Home Depot/Best Buy/Walmart 8000 BTU AC. Even a free-standing AC. Anything!
 

rlrenz

Explorer
Considering the climate in FL right about now, maybe you might want to store some of your supplies in steel ammo cans with a dessicant pack tossed in, or maybe a Pelican case with a dessicant pack. I have some orange ammo-box sized (50 cal?) cases from West Marine that are gasketted, but certainly not humidity-tight. My Pelican cases are equipped with vent valves, so they would probably do fairly well. I think Coleman surplus sells surplus medical storage boxes that are about 18" x 12" x 30" long - the kind with about a dozen latches on them.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Very nice EXPO365!

We seem to have some very talented people on this forum and it's good to let people know. I may, at some point, be looking for a new EDC folder that's very light weight, possibly with a Titanium body, to replace the inexpensive Buck with a Zytel nylon body I carry now. At times, I also carry a SOG Twitch XL with the assisted opening feature, but it's a little heavy at 4.20 oz. when it's flopping around in a loose shorts pocket. But I love this knife, and carrying on a belt using the clip is fine though.

BKHAN.jpg


No worries on the highjack, I don't have much progress to report on here anyway, so this helps.

Thanks for letting us know...
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Bob,

I've got a couple of 5,000 BTU window units that I keep for backup in case the central unit goes out, or I need to use one of my smaller generators in case of a power outage. Normally, the 15 KW Home Standby Generator, which runs off Natural Gas, kicks in and the AC never misses a stroke, but you never know.

My problem right now is, I need to do a bunch of work outside of the ambulance before I can even think about doing anything on the inside. What I really need is a garage to put it in, but short of that I need to put some type of awning cover over the top to provide protection from the sun and rain. However, we are right in the middle of Hurricane season, so anything I put up has to be able to come down (by myself) in an hour or so, or risk it being torn up by high winds, even from a whimpy storm. We're getting some 30-40 mph gust in some of these thunderstorms we are having every afternoon now.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
You can always pull the gulf coast boat repair trick - use a pop-up canopy for shade, and positioned right next to the module - maybe even tied to it in case of wind.

Failing that, you could stretch a 10x20 ft (+/-) tarp over the module. Tie the piece that stretches over the module to whatever is solid, then use a couple of tent poles (slightly shorter than the module so rain runs off, maybe 3/4" EMT?) on the free end. One rope from each free corner to a 5 gallon bucket full of sand, and you have shade, an umbrella, and you can pull 'er down and retreat when necessary very easily.

Now I have to ask again - are FL winters so wonderful that you can tolerate the summer you're having?
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Bob,

I've got a couple of those canopy frames with no covers, several heavy duty silver 12x16 tarps, and at least one big tarp (20x30 I think). I also have a variety of poles that I can use. What you suggested is exactly what I've thought about doing, but I live in a subdivision so it needs it to look somewhat presentable, especially if it's going to be there a while, which it probably will.

I would like to get the tarp above the roof by using one of the frames to allow air to flow in between, rather that just laying it across the roof which would be simplier. However, to start with my canopy for camping use will probably be one of the 12x16 tarps anchored to the driver side rain gutter, then 8' laying across the roof, and 8' out to a couple of poles on the passenger side to make the awning area. That way, no rain would run down between the tarp and the body on the passenger side. That was another reason for removing and capping the antennas for now.

On the way to the mailbox a few minutes ago, I noticed this heat now has all of the Gorilla Tape curling up that I was using to seal the edges of the heavy plastic sheeting (blue roof material) I have covering the opening in the front wall...and we have more thunderstorms on the way right now. I guess tomorrow I'm going to have to go get something more substantial to cover it with, like some panels of some kind. I just hate having to drills holes in the body that I may have to cover up at some point.

As far as our summers go, we have been pushing record highs for the last few months, so this is not really normal for us. My electric bill this month went over $300.00, which is the highest I have ever had. Winters...I guess you mean all two weeks of it... :D
 

rlrenz

Explorer
2 weeks of winter - Poor Boy.....

I've been in P'cola in early November - the beautiful coast is definitely less beautiful than at other times. I used to attend various MIL conferences, and they'd be located near a secured facility, with housing at an off-season hotel that would go along with the per diem allowances. The emerald coast in November was definitely an off-season.

It doesn't matter where you live in the world - every place has good news / bad news. Hot summers, cold winters, too many people, hurricanes, giant bugs, tourists, traffic, cost of living, forest fires, earthquakes. No place is perfect. There are always things we swear by, and things we swear at. Here in MN, we have winter - it's both a verb and a noun. However, it does make a very good reason to take a winter vacation to somewhere that snow is only found in little cones, with some syrup on top.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Not much of anything to report from last month except it was extremely hot, humid, and it rained a lot! We are entering the most active part of the hurricane season right now, and we're watching a few things in the Atlantic, but nothing threatening at the moment. It's starting to get a little cooler, especially in the mornings, but the rain has not let up very much. You can count on at least one thunderstorm almost every afternoon.

Even though I haven't gotten any physical work done on the project this last month, I have spent a lot of time researching and sourcing materials, supplies, and components I will need to complete the outside. One of the items being the .125 Aluminum Diamond Deck metal I will need to cover the front end. A 4'x8' sheet is $191.00 and I will need two sheets. I'm still pondering that one...

Another item I've been giving a lot of time to is my generator selection and installation. I have a Honda EU3000i generator with electric start, that I was originally planning on using and mounting it in a compartment or on the tongue in an enclosure of some sort. I also have a Honda EU2000i generator, and after coming across another post on another forum about using two smaller generators wired in parallel instead of one larger one, I started having second thoughts.

The Honda crowd is using either the EU1000i or the EU2000i generators for parallel operation. Since I already own a Standard EU2000i that is the series I would be using. Honda even makes a dedicated generator for this purpose called the EU2000i Companion. The internal specs are the same, but the Companion has one 120VAC 20A and one 30A outlet, whereas the Standard unit has two 120VAC 20A outlets and a 12DC outlet.


EU2000i Standard and Companion Side by Side.JPG

Here are the basic advantages and disadvantages as I see them:

EU2000i Specs

EU3000I Specs

Advantages

1. Greater starting capacity (A/C units) of the paralleled units, now 4000 watts total vs. the 3000 watts of the EU3000i
2. The ability to manage the individual weight of the EU2000i’s at 45 lbs. each for maintenance, repair, etc. as compared to the EU3000i at 134 lbs.
3. Flexibility in configuration and mounting location(s).
4. Ability to shut down one unit when the load is decreased, such as winter time when A/C is not required.
5. Redundancy – if one unit fails to start or breaks down, the other remains to fall back on.
6. One unit can be used as a portable or loaned out, while the other remains to power the camper.
7. This would also free up the EU3000i to use as an additional home backup generator, and it can be converted to run on NG with a kit I just received.

Disadvantages

1. No electric start like the EU3000i has, but pull starting requires almost no effort.
2. Two of everything – double the maintenance, parts, oil, air cleaner, etc.
3. Security of the heavier EU3000i from a theft standpoint vs. the lighter EU2000i.
4. Noise Level –
a. EU2000i - 59 dB(A) @ rated load 53dB(A) @ 1/4 loadb.
b. EU3000i - 58 dB(A) @ rated load, 49 dB(A) @ 1/4 load
c. The EU3000i is a little quieter at ¼ load and I don’t know what the level would actually be with two EU2000i’s running side by side, since the engines are half the size of the EU3000i model. They are so quiet to start with, and if they were in an enclosure of some sort with some quality sound deadening material like Dynamat Extreme, I really don’t think it will matter much.
5. I would need to purchase another Standard EU2000i or the Companion EU2000i generator at around $1,000.00 - $1,100.00 new, or a good used one. I would also need a set of parallel cables.

Misc.

1. Basic footprint is about the same with two EU2000i’s side by side. Dimensions (L x W x H) are for one unit each.
a. EU2000i - 20.2" x 11.4" x 16.7"
b. EU3000i - 25.9" x 17.6" x 22.0"

Justification

I have attached a post from the AR15 Forum that I found, that pretty well explains the justification for using two EU2000is vs. one EU3000i. No point in me retyping it all over again.

The following is that post:

In researching the Honda EU2000 in parallel vs Honda and Yamaha 3000s, I eventually talked to Speedway sales in Milwaukee area. Riz, the owner, sells and is very informed on both. His experience indicates the Honda, while not spec’d as such, will maintain a higher output in the range of 3000+ watts, for 30 minutes, as opposed to 30 seconds for the boost feature of the Yamaha. He says it will handle heavy loads better overall. However, two EU2000's in parallel will provide 4000 watts startup. As for brand, from my personal experience with generators, including Generac, Onan, and Honda, I've found the Honda to be the most trouble free and easiest to maintain of any out there. I still have a 2500 unit, which saw extensive service for my daughter in the Grand Forks great flood of the Red River last decade. Still works flawlessly.

Personally, after much research into this area, I've decided on two EU2000's paralleled together as opposed to the EU3000. The primary consideration was weight, but there turns out to be other advantages. With the EU3000, at 134# minimum, I would have to use a ramp or lift to handle it as I travel mostly alone. The EU2000’s weighs in at only 46# each. Also, in parallel, the 2-2000’s will provide greater max [and startup] capacity, 4000 watts vs 3000. From a fuel consumption standpoint, with an 13,500 BTU A/C load, which is my primary concern, both the 3000 and 2-2000's will run close to the same amount of time, and the 2-2000's will use less fuel. Here's the calculation:

EU3000: Fuel tank = 3.4 gal. Runtime = 7.2 hr. at full load, 20 hr. 1/4 load.
This equals about 1/3 gal per hour full load and 1/6 gal at 1/4 load.

EU2000: Fuel tank = 1.1 gal. Runtime = 4 hr. at full load, 15 hr. at 1/4 load.
This equals about 1/4 gal per hour full load and 1/14 gal at 1/4 load. Since there will be two units in parallel, the [amount] should be doubled, but then multiplied by 3/4 since the parallel units output 4000 watts vs the 3000's 3000 watts.

If you assume a load of 2400 watts for an A/C unit after startup running continuously, this is about a 3/4 load for the EU3000 and a 6/10 load for the 2-2000's. Assuming the fuel consumption curve is linear for both setups from 1/4 load to full load [which it probably isn't but will be close enough for our calculation], the EU3000 would consume about .3 gal/hr. with a runtime of about 11.5 hours, and the 2-2000's would consume about 1/6 gal/hr. for a run time of about 9.2 hr. While the 2-2000's will have a slightly shorter runtime, their fuel efficiency is substantially greater, since their combined fuel supply is 2.2 gal vs 3.4 for the EU3000. Overall, at this load calculation, the 2-2000's are attaining 4.2 hr./gal vs the 3000 at 3.4 hr./gal.

There are of course other factors to consider, although cost won't be one of them, since net cost will be about the same. These other factors include: the security of the heavier unit from a theft standpoint, the greater start capacity of the paralleled units, now 4000 watts total, the electric start vs manual start, etc. But for this older body, the ability to manage the individual weight of each EU2000 far overrides these other differences.
Posted: 9/16/2012 5:08:58 AM CDT
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_18/659055_Honda_eu3000i_v__eu3000is.html


I already have a 12 gal. aux boat gas tank, so this hose setup with that tank will take care of the extended runtime fuel issue.

HONDA EU2000i GENERATOR DUAL EXTENDED RUN FUEL LINE SYSTEM WITHOUT TANK.jpg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-EU200...ITHOUT-TANK-/181313929857?hash=item2a37270281

By using two smaller generators, my mounting options have increased, as far as using existing compartments. I’m going to do some measuring and test fitting just for my own information, but I still think mounting them in a separate box on the tongue is going to be the better option, even though it will cost more.

The advantages of mounting them on the tongue are:

1. Frees up compartment space for other installed appliances like a water heater, etc. or camping gear.
2. No possible way for gasoline fumes to enter the passenger compartment, and much easier and safer to refuel.
3. Easier to locate and mount the 12 gal Aux fuel tank I have and fuel it. It also has a fuel level gauge built into the cap, so it will be easier to see.
4. If I convert them to run on propane, the tanks will most likely be mounted on the tongue also, so the LPG lines will be much shorter.
5. Easier to cool and vent the exhaust.
6. Easier to run wiring to the main electrical panel, since it’s just on the other side of the front wall.
7. Less noise transmitted to the passenger compartment.
8. Less vibration transmitted to the passenger compartment, especially if I mount the enclosures on rubber donut type isolators, in addition to the rubber feet on the generators themselves.


That's all for now... :)
 
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patoz

Expedition Leader
Today, I test fitted the Honda EU2000i generator in some of the ambulance compartments, just to see where it would fit.

One generator will fit in three of the compartments, but two will not fit side by side in any of them no matter how you twist or turn them. Two will fit in compartment #2 if you stack one on top of the other using a shelf, but by the time you build a frame system and add slide outs, I'm not sure they would fit even then. And, there is no room for the aux gas tank; not even in an adjacent compartment. So, it looks like they are going on the tongue whether I want them there or not!

All things considered, I think that's the best plan anyway.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Finally, a little progress (I hope)!

Right now our weather is pretty good, so if it holds through the weekend I hope to have the shiny stuff where the the blue stuff is by Monday.

HPIM1291.jpg

IMAG0678 - cropped.jpg

I had to mortgage my house to pay for it, but I bought two 4' x 8' x 1/8" sheets of Tread Brite Aluminum which will cover the entire front from the light bar down. The sheets will run horizontally, from corner post lip to corner post lip, and be trimmed to fit very accurately giving it a factory appearance. There will be cutouts for the frame rails also. Behind the Tread Brite, I'm planning on replacing the OEM 2" x 2" square stock tubing framing that was removed to make the opening to the cab. This will give the sheet metal support/backing and keep it from flexing and eventually cracking. Placement of these pieces is going to be tricky, since I don't know exactly what is going to be mounted through that wall yet.

These panels need to be removable for installation of future appliances and upgrades, i.e. air conditioning, so I'm planning on making them water tight by using some type of thin closed cell foam gasket material around the perimeter and across the seam in the center. The panels will be mounted using countersunk stainless steel 1/4-20 screws into aluminum riv-nuts mounted into the existing skin and body frame.

Well, that's the plan anyway. Now, we'll just see how it goes...
 

AMBOT

Adventurer
I went with 2 Yahama for alot of the same reasons you described. I chose the Yahama's purely for their orientation on the rear carrier with the controls on the side facing inwards. If I think I need two, I bring two, or one, or none. Same goes for propane.

9-16-2015 7-15-59 PM.jpg
 

rlrenz

Explorer
Pat, your decision to bite the bullet and get the aluminum will let you cork up the body before rain starts to damage things, and you gotta admit that a poly tarp just doesn't hold up to the weather as well as 1/8" aluminum would.

I bought gasket from McMaster (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3587/=yyxfom) -- 1/16" x 2" Neoprene/EPDM/SBR closed cell foam (# 8694K64 -- $13.89/50 ft) for wherever I needed a thin gasket. From the site's description, it sounds like the stuff you'd need as well, but maybe a bit narrower.

Your plan to use Riv-Nuts should do just fine. I suggest that you use thin plywood or Masonite to make an accurate pattern (because it's a lot easier to add or trim a bit from lumber than aluminum...). Once the pattern is right, you might get your welder friend to use a plasma arc to cut the metal instead of trying to saw it. Clamp it in place and drill the holes you'll need - a pilot hole might make things a little easier. I suggest using the knurled Riv-Nuts for better torque resistance - McMaster has them (search for "rivet nut"), and for what you'll be doing, their #94020A343 should be about right. It's 1/4-20, aluminum, knurled, and can handle material up to 0.165" thick. Price is $12.80/25 pieces.

DSCN4972.JPG

Order a few new drill bits as well, and some cutting oil always helps. When you set up the installation tool, try an installation in some leftover material to be sure the numbers are right. After you install one, take a look at the outside to verify that the roll of the nut is in contact with the metal, and look inside to be sure that it hasn't been over pulled - if it looks like the threaded section is now a little tight, run a 1/4-20 tap through to clean it up.

DSCN4974.JPG

You may recognize the photos - they showed up on my own page a while ago.

You will have to first drill through the panel and framing simultaneously with a pilot drill, then remove the panel and drill out panel for the bolt, and the frame members for the Riv-Nut. The ribs on the deck plate will fight you from time to time...

Countersinking will help with the ribs, but get a good single flute 82 degree countersink, maybe McMaster # 2846A126 (5/8" diameter). Again, use cutting oil.

(The above thoughts and ideas were based on my failures and occasional successes....)
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
I went with 2 Yahama for alot of the same reasons you described. I chose the Yahama's purely for their orientation on the rear carrier with the controls on the side facing inwards. If I think I need two, I bring two, or one, or none. Same goes for propane.

View attachment 304587


Yep, I like the versatility of using two smaller vs. one big generator.

I had read through your build thread quite a while back, but just went through it again and see some new stuff I like, especially that rack on the back!
 

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