Leveling mod for 2003 F-250 7.3 4WD Crew

Advmoto18

Observer
I am in the process of ordering a Four Week Pop Up Camper - Hawk model.

I will be having the Wisconsin FWC dealer perform the install on the ref'd truck.

I have exhaustively searched the internut for the BEST method to level and assist the truck's springs carry the load. I even considered "upgrading" my rear leaf springs and overload spring to F-350. However, both the 250 and 350 use the same spings / P/Ns!

I am curious what others have used to modify their suspension for carrying heavy loads? Timbren, air bags, something else?

Thanks!

Bill
 
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FordGuy1

Adventurer
Go with the Icon hanger kit, 1" block in the rear and use Icon 2.5 shocks in the front and the 2.0 in the rear. Install a good set of air bags and your done, super simple, drives like stock and you can use 35" with the right offset wheels with no rubbing. We have done a couple hundred like that over the years and the seem to be the best set up keeping it simple.

SUPERDUTY.jpg
 
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lonestarbronco

New member
Bill,

I would contact Cary at CTPerformance with your questions.

http://www.ctperformanceinc.com/contactus.html

While his website is outdated, he has always been super helpful on other forums regarding Super Duty suspensions. I've talked with him on the phone for hours about Super Duty truck stuff: injectors, suspensions, lighting, etc...

For what it's worth, I have air bags on my truck. I've never carried a heavy camper, but I did find them helpful when pulling a heavy gooseneck trailer. I would say they probably hurt the ride quality (funny, I know) and limit rear axle articulation.

Hope this helps,

Lynn
 

FordGuy1

Adventurer
If you set the airbags up correctly, you will not have an issue with articulation unless you switch out your rear left springs with a progressive long travel leaf pack. Stock super-duty leafs don't have a lot of travel. In-bored air bags seem to work best.
 

Advmoto18

Observer
Thanks for the info guys!

I just put new rubber (295/75x16) all the way around and Bilstein HDs on all 4 corners.

I'd like to keep stock ride height. Looking for a way to eliminate the sag associated with about 1200# in the bed. When I carry 1300# of pea gravel, I am into the overload spring and sagging a couple of inches. This is what I'm trying to prevent with the camper in the bed. I also want to be retain stock ride height when the camper is not in the bed.

I will check into all the above advice.

Thanks!

Bill
 
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Advmoto18

Observer
I am leaning towards either the Timbren (TFR250SDE) or Firestone Air Bags (F2550).

I like Timbren for ease of maintenance and no air to leak. My concern is...since a 1" gap must be attained between the bottom of the Timbren and the top of the axle when installed/unladen, there will be some sagging when the camper is loaded. Obviously, not as much sag as without Timbren.

Air bags. Seem to offer the best solution when the camper is loaded. However, since 5psi must be maintained in the bags when the truck is unladen, the air bags will increase the rear ride height by approximately 1" according to some reviewers on eTrailer.com. This would be a big disadvantage IMO.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
I am leaning towards either the Timbren (TFR250SDE) or Firestone Air Bags (F2550).

I like Timbren for ease of maintenance and no air to leak. My concern is...since a 1" gap must be attained between the bottom of the Timbren and the top of the axle when installed/unladen, there will be some sagging when the camper is loaded. Obviously, not as much sag as without Timbren.

Air bags. Seem to offer the best solution when the camper is loaded. However, since 5psi must be maintained in the bags when the truck is unladen, the air bags will increase the rear ride height by approximately 1" according to some reviewers on eTrailer.com. This would be a big disadvantage IMO.

You just set the Timbrens to have clearance unloaded. Then adjust them as needed. They should contact the axle when loaded, if not, adjust them until they do. It's easy.

I have the Airlift bags. They have a bumper on the inside that smooths out the big hits before the suspension bottoms. It also takes up volume inside of the bag, so the bag is more progressive and build pressure quicker as it's compressed. So they need no air pressure at all. You can safely run 0. Keeping pressure in the bags is only to keep the bag from folding in on its self as your suspension moves, if it does that, it'll rub a hole. Usually, as long as your valves are in, you can get away with zero. Depends on your setup.

My setup is adjustable. I have it set so that 70 psi will not lift the trucks rear at all when unloaded. But as the truck is compressed the springs help more. You can decrease the distance between the top and bottom airbag mounts so it kicks in quicker. Even with 70 psi, my truck will be stiff, but level or even a inch low in the rear with the bags. I should adjust my bag mounts closer together, but I'm adding the Daystar spring cup which is thick enough to do the same thing. And that cup frees up the bottom of the bag so I have max off road suspension travel still.

The fifth wheel friendly Firestone and Airlift kits will allow more flex. But less roll stiffness and you have to watch exhaust clearance.

The types that mount over the springs will offer way more roll resistance, better for slide in campers and really heavy loads. But you have to be careful with tire clearance. These are usually kits that require frame drilling, even though the kit box say it's not needed. Lies, all lies! Just get a good center punch and you're GTG.

Either kit will limit downtravel and flex. Good for onroad towing and hauling. Not so good off road. The Daystar spring cups will allow your suspension to flex completely.

Air leaks are the least of my worries. it's just one airline connection per bag. And one valve in my bumper per bag. Don't waste your money on fancy pump kits or auto level stuff. These things are "set and forget". I just use a gas stations compressor, my garage compressor, or a bicycle tire pump under my rear seat. No big deal. KISS.


If I want the bags to kick in sooner and lift more, I just add steel bar spacers under the bottom mounting bracket to lift it up. The Kit came with an optional about 1.5" spacer thing.

DSC05248_zps9ac032c6.jpg


DSC05231_zps322251ab.jpg


No drill kit my ********:
DSC05234_zps83a13a42.jpg


As you can see. The bags are stretched out pretty far which is why my ride height isn't affected. The closer you set the mounts the more lifting action you get. The further, the less.

Installation was easy, thanks to the nifty cut out paper marker, but time consuming. Measure 100 times, drill once. If your mechanicly inclined, I'd do it yourself. I'm not to keen on a hitching post lacky drilling into my frame.

Plenty of clearance for my 295/70 r17 Cooper STT's on stock F250 XL wheels. Hopefully the Daystar spring cups will also clear well.

Daystar spring cups on a Toyota:
IMG_1283_zpsf82706b1.jpg


IMG_1290_zps0034fc26.jpg
 
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Advmoto18

Observer
You just set the Timbrens to have clearance unloaded. Then adjust them as needed. They should contact the axle when loaded, if not, adjust them until they do. It's easy.

I have the Airlift bags.

Buli....

THANKS for the great info and the time you took to post the images as well. Great info!

I decided to try the Timbrens first for the simple install and forget feature. I will give them a workout this winter hauling gravel, dirt and mulch.

If I need to go with air bags once the FWC Hawk is installed, I will seriously consider your setup. I had decided to go with running the air lines to the rear bumper and fill valves. I always carry a an emergency DC mini pump and have it if needed. I don't like too many bells and whistles only anything as these lead to additional, and needless, points of potential failure.

Thanks again!

Bill
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
You can also set the Timbrens to contact the axle when unloaded. Then they'll start working sooner with less sag.

Usually the Timbrens are used an trucks with a lot of rake like a stock F350, so that 1" is still above level. Obviously a more level F250 will want a more aggressive setting with the Timbrens closer, or in contact with the axle.
 

Advmoto18

Observer
They ride like ********

My truck already rides crummy because I made the mistake of putting my first set of non-BFG rubber on the truck last month. Now to wear those suckers out so I can get back to BFGs!! Trying to save some coin ALWAYS costs you something!
 
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Advmoto18

Observer
You can also set the Timbrens to contact the axle when unloaded. Then they'll start working sooner with less sag.

Usually the Timbrens are used an trucks with a lot of rake like a stock F350, so that 1" is still above level. Obviously a more level F250 will want a more aggressive setting with the Timbrens closer, or in contact with the axle.

Thanks Buli! I was considering installing with a 1/2" gap for the very reason you mentioned.

Dave1014 doesn't care for Timbren. But, I did notice a bit ride difference in a friend's SD with the coil over front suspension v. leaves on all 4 corners.

I bought one of the last '03 with the 7.3L due to the 275HP and additional torque. The numbers reviewers were talking about with the new 2003 6.0L were not floating my boat. But the low sulfur diesel has crushed my once decent MPG. When the low sulfur appeared, my MPG dropped 5 - 6 MPG. ALWAYS trade offs!
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
The newer coil spring trucks have the capability for a better ride. But not stock. And coils don't have the friction damper properties a multi leaf has. So shocks are more critical than ever up front.

Custom built leveling leaf springs up front can level the truck to level F350 height with a decent ride. Then replace the rear blocks with mini packs to get the rear to F350 height. Add some bags or timbrens to keep things level and there should be plenty of room for 34" tires. Maybe 35.

In 2008 they added much longer wider rear springs. Soother ride with similar load carrying. Works best with the removal of the blocks and addition of mini packs in their place. Makes no sense, but works.
 

Advmoto18

Observer
My '03 is barely broken in; has just 70K miles on the ODO. I bought it new. The SD belongs to my Black Labs; they truly think it is their truck! I have run 295/75x16 on 10" wheels since about week 3 of ownership. Never had an issue with rubbing or clearance because I never came close to max payload.

Now that I'm about to order the FWC Hawk, I don't want to run into any issues.

I just installed OEM/standard length Bilstein 5100s (non-adjustable) on all 4 corners in addition to a new set of tires.

I have the Tembrens on the way from eTrailer.

From what I can gather, I can install the ICON 191201, 1" hanger blocks in the rear and still use the Bilstein's I just purchased.
I should be able to install the ICON 3-2000 Mini Spring Pack on the front and gain 2" of lift. Also retaining the Bilstein's I just purchased installed on the front.

Hopefully, this setup will work. If I need to ditch the Tembrens in favor of air bags, I can do that.

I am trying to get another 12-18 months use out of this truck with the Hawk in the bed and my KTM 350 EXC-F in a Versa Hauler in the rear Class IV hitch. I plan on spending most of Spring '15 in CO, UT, NV and AZ.

I am considering purchasing a 2016 F-350 when they become available. The 2016 Super Duties are suppose to have the new beer can technology (aluminum quarter panels/beefed up steel frame) just released in the 2015 F-150s. However, I do not like purchase the first year of a new widget. There are always some R&D issues to be ironed out in the first year of release.
 

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