My FG Dual Cab Setup For Work & Play

CropDuster

Observer
I recently purchased a FG649 Dual cab with the intentions of setting it up for both Work & Play.
Plans are to build a flatbed tray and upgrade all the essentials along the way.

First up im looking at the options for fuel tanks as the standard 90L tank is way too small. I have searched the forum and haven't found any specific threads with the info im looking for.
Twin tanks or big single?
Is there another model of truck that I can get one off as a bolt on upgrade?
I can build a tank out of stainless or alloy but if I can get a direct fitment id rather do that.
Id like to be able to get 1000km range or more.

Cheers
Nathan
 
Last edited:

4x4coaster

Adventurer
I suggest you try local truck wreckers first. If you can get another tank from a similar model truck the fuel sender will most likely be compatible with your gauge and make switching and wiring less complicated.
 

SkiFreak

Crazy Person
If you can get another tank from a similar model truck the fuel sender will most likely be compatible with your gauge and make switching and wiring less complicated.
This is a very valid point, as the Fuso fuel sender is in no way a "standard" sender.
The fitting itself is not SAE and the ohm range unique to Fuso. If you intend to use the OEM fuel gauge (in the dash) then you need to use a genuine Fuso sender, or do as I did and get one custom made.
 

CropDuster

Observer
Thanks fellas I will contact some wreckers and see what they have available and post my findings here when I get to doing it.
 

Fender

New member
What is the official ohm range for the Mitsubishi Fuso fuel sender? I pulled out the fuel sender of my FG639 and got a range of roughly 0 to 160 ohms but am not sure how accurate this is.

Thanks!
 

CropDuster

Observer
I took a short video of my front suspension whilst driving to get an idea of what was happening before emptying my pockets for new parts.
This is with no load on the truck at all and over some pretty average bitumen roads which are the norm here in Aus.
Have a look and see what you think

 

CropDuster

Observer
So loaded or unloaded my front suspension gets nowhere near the bumpstops, not what i was expecting to see as everyone kept telling me that the harsh ride is caused by hitting them.
You can really see the high speed rebound of the springs and why that needs to be controlled.
 

kerry

Expedition Leader
That's a very interesting video. It would be very nice to see comparative videos of other suspensions to see what is happening. How did you mount your camera? I think you have more travel in your suspension than I had with the OE bump stops.
 

Aussie Iron

Explorer
You may find that the rear shackle is standing fairly straight up and down. It will take a fair hit to get it to move were as if it was leaning back at an angle it will move a lot easier. That was my theory in the rough ride and mine also hit the bump stops on larger bumps. My solution was to get springs made that are longer from the centre bolt back (25mm) and get more set built in. This now gives me more clearance on the bump stops (75mm instead of 20mm) and the shackles hang back so it doesn't hammer into the chassis before moving. We've now done 2 Canters with this system and both have improved ride. Changing over to super single 16" also makes a large difference. Ride now is better than my Landcruiser HZJ75.

Dan.
 

CropDuster

Observer
That's a very interesting video. It would be very nice to see comparative videos of other suspensions to see what is happening. How did you mount your camera? I think you have more travel in your suspension than I had with the OE bump stops.
Hi Kerry, I mounted the camera on the lower foot step facing in through the gap on an angle. There is 135mm between the chassis rail and the top of the lower stop that is mounted on the top of the spring pack.
I have some timbrens to fit up hopefully during the week and i will take another video to see the difference.

You may find that the rear shackle is standing fairly straight up and down. It will take a fair hit to get it to move were as if it was leaning back at an angle it will move a lot easier. That was my theory in the rough ride and mine also hit the bump stops on larger bumps. My solution was to get springs made that are longer from the centre bolt back (25mm) and get more set built in. This now gives me more clearance on the bump stops (75mm instead of 20mm) and the shackles hang back so it doesn't hammer into the chassis before moving. We've now done 2 Canters with this system and both have improved ride. Changing over to super single 16" also makes a large difference. Ride now is better than my Landcruiser HZJ75.

Dan.
Yeh Dan the rear shackle is pretty much vertical, i will look in to that also but i cant afford to add any more height to the vehicle as i need to get in to some places with low clearance and its already a problem at times.
 

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