200 TDi North America Serviceability.

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
I looking into the possibility of getting a 110 in the next bit and I was wanting to know the reality of servicing a 200TDi in North American. I am fairly competent in maintenance on gas motor, but I really have little to no diesel experiences. Are these motor a pain to maintain? This would be a dally driven truck and an adventurer family hauler.

thanks,

Nate
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
The 200Tdi is a great choice for what you describe. Your best community resource in the US will be Defender Source - www.defendersource.com

You will likely find the Tdi to be simpler and easier to maintain over time than nearly any gas motor. Aside from regular timing belt changes every 60k miles (not nearly as hard as it sounds), they are pretty plug and play.

All service parts including gaskets, seals, most other items are readily stocked in the US from vendors like Rovers North.

You're headed in the right direction - do some research on Defender Source and all should become clear.
 

Red90

Adventurer
They are a simple, easy to work on motor. Can you be a little more specific as to what you are concerned about? They are an engine, you change oil filters and belts. Filters are available locally. Other parts from Land Rover parts suppliers.
 

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
My concern would really be that I'm looking in to a 25+ year old truck to be my everyday vehicle and that this motor, as far as I know, was never sold state side. I just want to make sure that I would able to keep it running for a while.
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
Really the motor may be the least of your concerns! Not to say the rest of the vehicle is troublesome... but you will end up spending far more time tinkering with about a dozen other things before the Tdi.
 

meatblanket

Adventurer
I've been driving mine daily for a couple of years now. They don't require much maintenance but when you do need parts you aren't going to find them at Autozone. Not a big deal especially if you either plan ahead and have some spares lying about, or better yet, another vehicle to drive while you wait for the UPS dude to bring you parts.
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
Disclaimer: This is the overly protective going to be very picky version of maintenance to a 200TDI. You can probably scale it back from here.

Unless you do something stupid (AKA, overheat, run water through the system, run misc items through the system, put articles of clothing in the fuel tank, stuff old cell phone cords down the intake, etc) its going to be fine. Become familiar with your local diesel shops for tune ups.

If I was getting an unknown mileage 200TDI, I'd replace the turbo (upgrade would be considered at this time, blowing a turbo is a bad time), clean out the EGR (EGR's get gummed up, nature of the beast), replace all injectors (once again, an opportunity for an upgrade), and replace glow plugs.

Leaking injectors happen and cause all kinds of interesting issues. Also a good set of glow plugs is crucial once the polar vortex/winter typhoon/whatever it is this year hits. The tuning and checking of the timing of the injector pump is what I'd have a shop look at. Buy a workshop manual for the engine and it'll have all the specs in it. Also check the manual on when the injector pump should be checked. Also adjustment of valves.

Flush the radiator. Overheating is a bad time. Inversely, buy a radiator muff for in the winter so the truck will actually heat up. This is nice if your commute is short.

Install an Exhaust Gas temp gauge. If something bad is about to happen, that gauge will tell you. Typically you can push the truck less and the temps go down. That will short term get you home but it is a sign that you need to pick around and make some adjustments.

Speaking of adjustments, be careful when taking it to shops. People be like, "Oh, I'll tune up his injector pump. Murica!" That is fine, but have that done 6 times and all of a sudden, you are seeing some weird stuff because the truck is running rich. This is a bad time.

Replace filters, especially fuel filters on time. If you decide to run biodiesel, it tends to also "clean" out the fuel system. Guess where all that crap ends up in. The fuel filter. I've heard of trucks needing a new fuel filter after one tank of biodiesel, but then good to go after that. So yeah, extra fuel filters is probably a good thing to have on hand.

Old truckers I used to work with swore by adding this stuff to their fuel tanks to get rid of moisture in the system. I'd do more research on that but if they were doing it with similar-era big trucks, then its probably not a bad idea. Water in your fuel system can rust away your injector pump. This is a bad time and a couple bottles of that crap will be cheaper and easier.

Lastly I'd replace the lift pump just for a piece of mind. Also I'd carry a spare lift pump. Once again, this is being overly protective.

If you've played around with series 4 cylinders, you'll feel right at home. Replacing injectors, glow plugs, and turbo are all nut-and-bolt jobs. Nothing too ridiculous. Oh but do wear gloves. Diesel fuel is nasty.

Parts are readily available here in the US. If not, Trevor from Rovahfarm can probably get them for you. If you do replace the injectors, look around for injector rebuilding shops. I've seen places you send your injectors off to and they rebuild them for half cost of new ones. Then you've got a spare set of injectors on hand if needed. Great success.

Other than that, should be good to go. These are very good engines and the above mentioned is pretty much what is done to any mechanically injected diesel engine for "maintenance". Do all of that and that engine should be super awesome and reliable for you. Don't do all of that and most likely, the engine will be super awesome and reliable. But the above will ensure the engine returns good power and start ability.

I hope this helps.
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
That is quite over protective!

I'd differ on a few points - don't go too crazy replacing stuff until you can confirm it's bad. Injectors are reliable on these engines. Turbo can be easily checked for play in the shaft.

There is no EGR on the 200Tdi though, and they are actually known for not needing glow plugs to start in "normal" cold temps down to 30* or lower. They are also a dramatically overcooled engine - you will have more difficulty getting it up to temp in the winter than you well keeping it cool in the summer.

Great little motors they are!
 

optimusprime

Proffessional daydreamer.
That is quite over protective!

I'd differ on a few points - don't go too crazy replacing stuff until you can confirm it's bad. Injectors are reliable on these engines. Turbo can be easily checked for play in the shaft.

There is no EGR on the 200Tdi though, and they are actually known for not needing glow plugs to start in "normal" cold temps down to 30* or lower. They are also a dramatically overcooled engine - you will have more difficulty getting it up to temp in the winter than you well keeping it cool in the summer.

Great little motors they are!

Agreed.
Ditching the fan and fitting electric fans are commonplace over this side of the pond.
Well regarded engine,the only consideration would be checking head gasket on an unknown engine.
 

El Solis

Adventurer
as someone who got a 200tdi and learned the hard way how things go boom I can tell you that Trevor at the Rovahfarm should be on your speed dial. As for the mechanics, they are simple beasts, run hard, can be tuned to keep up with traffic, slow but go for ever even when something isn't working well. I live where there are big hills and high ambient temps. Initially I had engine heating up issues but have since remedied that with some basic tuning, timing belt change(did my self as there are step by step instructions on the web with pictures), recored radiator, and some fuel injection pump changes. For everything I don't want to deal with I take to the local diesel shop. They love working on my tractor engine and a case of coors lite keeps them happy. It is my daily driver when I don't work (which is 1/2 the month) and I have no issues. In Austin you will want a/c and I have it and it is a nice feature on 100 degree days. Let me know if you have questions.
 

wuntenn

Adventurer
Also another little 'gem' to be aware of (amongst many others!). The dipstick tube is retained by a large circular nut through which the dipstick tube goes, with a brass olive on the tube to seal it. Over time, with the engine vibes, the olive may 'migrate' up the tube. This means that gradually, imperceptibly but surely, the dipstick tube goes down into the sump. Not a huge problem except the indicated oil level is then inaccurate and I've seen an engine that only needed 2.5L of oil to 'fill' it to the DANGER level on the dipstick, instead of the almost 6L of oil it would normally require. Easily fixed if you know, rather alarming if you dont!

(so to add - if able to when inspecting an older well-used unit, check the actual sump capacity against the indicated dipstick level to ensure that the engine has (had) the correct volume of oil in it).
 

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
Great info guys. Y'all have for sure alleviated most of my consernes. Now I just need to get our floors done in the house and I can start my search and get out of the horable jeep liberty.
 
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TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
This maybe silly to ask at the point and it may be an "if you half to ask you can't afford it" moment, but I am mostly seeing 2.5NA for sale right now. What is the average price people are paying for a solid truck??? It dose not have to be perfect, I would welcome some character. My wife is open to up to $25 maybe even $30,000 for a solid truck, but I wouldn't mind keeping the price down after all it is a 25 year old truck. Original I really only was interested in finding a LHD but now I'm not opposed to getting a RHD too.

Nate
 

meatblanket

Adventurer
A decent LHD 110 5 door with Tdi engine will take all of your budget. You might consider buying a 2.5na and adding the Tdi engine later, as a Defender 200Tdi will bolt right up with no fabrication needed. If you go RHD you'll have more to choose from. If you go RHD and you keep the 2.5na then you won't have to worry about poor visibility when overtaking, as you won't be passing anyone.

Just shop around, learn the market. It will take some time to find the right truck.
 

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