Ford 7.3L Oil change Overfill

[Woofwagon]

There are two ports right by the oil filter in the block for a bypass system to be plumbed in. The smaller one is the pressure supply to the bypass filter, the larger one is of course the return. IIRC, those are a 1/4 supply and a 3/8 return. I bought a discontinued NTZ filter housing and two cases of filters (should be good for about 400,000 miles of driving if I change the filters every 20,000 miles). The housing had to be retapped for NPT threads as they're metric stock. I used 5,000 psi rated abrasion resistant hydraulic line for all lines. The NTZ system filters the oil axially from the outside to the inside instead of the entire length of the filter element, this forces the oil through the densest part of the media.

I buy Premium Blue at Napa when they have a sale on. I plan to run PB in my Cadillac 500 engine after it's rebuilt and installed in the Suburban.

 

[Buliwyf]

well i did some reading and we cant replace the oil pan or gaskets in these 7.3's without removing the engine or cutting the crossmember, so its a pretty big job to put a new gasket in

I'll have to look into that, haven't been under a 7.4 in a while.


But when I have limited access to a machine like a fire pump sitting on a steel skid too close to a concrete floor: You don't have to remove the pan, just drop it. The trick is drying the engine for an extended period of time so no oil gets on the new Permatex.

-stop engine and park it for a whole week to let all oil drain into pan, give sides of engine time to dry
-drain oil and drop pan as far as it will go. 2" is plenty.
-carefully remove permatex.
-vacuum out pan with a little 1" vacuum hose duct taped to a regular shop vac.
-brake clean crazy the bottom inside walls of engine. Let dry for a long time. Let the brake clean run out of pan drain.
-zip tie pan up, 1" from bottom of engine, 4 zip ties is plenty
-Permatex Grey
-pull the zipties and start a few bolts
-finger tight for an hour
-give the bolts a turn or so and let permatex dry another hour
-final torque
-refill oil, run engine.
-replace oil and filter

 

[IdaSHO]

You will not be getting the oil pan removed, or even dropped without the crossmember being removed.

There is less than an inch of clearance

 

[Buliwyf]

You will not be getting the oil pan removed, or even dropped without the crossmember being removed.

There is less than an inch of clearance

That stinks. Better make sure it's the pan and not the turbo line orings or the plugs in the heads. Those tend to leak. Get some degreaser and wash the engine good to find the leak for sure.

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

That stinks. Better make sure it's the pan and not the turbo line orings or the plugs in the heads. Those tend to leak. Get some degreaser and wash the engine good to find the leak for sure.

Its most definitely the oil pan gasket pulled the inspection panel today I just did a wicked wheel 2 regulated return and oil crossover not too long ago and replaced the pedestal o rings while I was at it. This truck has never leaked a drop of anything. I bought it off my uncle and he was more meticulously than me. When he had it the thing only left the garage for road trips. I have every service record since the day it was delivered to the ford lot.
Brought the torque wrench out set to 18 and got a quarter turn on the driver side rear bolt which is where it is seeping from! Maybe that will help until its time to pull the engine and do a gasket. Will probably do that when I get around to injectors and clutch after I graduate. Took it for a spin on the freeway ran my hottest tune for a whike and there was no drips as of tonight.

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

I'll have to look into that, haven't been under a 7.4 in a while.


But when I have limited access to a machine like a fire pump sitting on a steel skid too close to a concrete floor: You don't have to remove the pan, just drop it. The trick is drying the engine for an extended period of time so no oil gets on the new Permatex.

-stop engine and park it for a whole week to let all oil drain into pan, give sides of engine time to dry
-drain oil and drop pan as far as it will go. 2" is plenty.
-carefully remove permatex.
-vacuum out pan with a little 1" vacuum hose duct taped to a regular shop vac.
-brake clean crazy the bottom inside walls of engine. Let dry for a long time. Let the brake clean run out of pan drain.
-zip tie pan up, 1" from bottom of engine, 4 zip ties is plenty
-Permatex Grey
-pull the zipties and start a few bolts
-finger tight for an hour
-give the bolts a turn or so and let permatex dry another hour
-final torque
-refill oil, run engine.
-replace oil and filter

Great technique with the zip ties even tho it won't work on the 7.3l I will keep that technique for other vehicles
I can barely fit my fingers between the crosmember amd pan!
Thank you for the good info

 

[norcal*PWRstroke]

I wonder if I could get on of these in?! Unbolt tranny and engine and lift it just a little around 1-2" drop the pan and use this gasket.
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/oil-pan-gasket/

 

[dave1014]

That gasket requires clean mating surfaces NorCal. And if you're going to do it using the ford sealant the engine needs to be pulled. Has to sit upside down for 24 hours to cure

 

[agthird]

from what I understand scraping the factory sealant is a bear.