Thread: '95 Bronco- spindle removal?

  1. #1
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    Default '95 Bronco- spindle removal?

    So it turns out my Bronco is from Canada, eh? The first tip off is the block heater, the second is the rust all over everything. Didn't bother me, until I went to pull the D44 IFS spindles for ball joint replacement. They bolt to the knuckles on the front, but rust and age have made the two, one.

    Anyone have any good ideas about removing the two? I've already punched out the studs and coated everything in penetrating oil, and worked on the seam with a chisel and two pound sledge. I might as well be trying to split a solid piece of metal.

    A quick internet search reveals that many separate the two by pounding on the spindle with a BFH, but I don't really like that idea- the thing is part threaded and part bearing surface after all.

    Can I heat the knuckle with a propane torch without damaging it? Big old slide hammer with some sort of attachment? Voodoo separation charm?

    Kevin

  2. #2
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    Careful with the BFH, you can beat the spindle "out of round"

    Place a jack stand under the ball joint, to take the "bounce" out of everything if you do decide to hit it.

    Use a block of wood between the hammer and the spindle.

    Acetylene, not propane...MAPP gas if Acetylene is not an option.

    That's all I got for now...

    On edit...make sure your propane torch is rated to burn MAPP gas, or get one that does. DON'T take a chance...
    Last edited by njtaco; 04-02-2008 at 06:27 PM.
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  3. #3
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    Heat a section (second MAPP gas since it will screw to your torch & burn hotter) and melt paraffin wax into the supposed crack between the parts. Works for getting out those frozen screwed-in block plugs too.
    I used to swerve around my hallucinations, now I drive right through them.

  4. #4
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    Put the hub/rotor back on. Turn the wheel around and mount it but leave the nuts loose enough to use the tire/wheel as a slide/hammer. Once the spindle gives you a gap between the knuckle housing, use a flat chisel and work your way around to remove it smoothly. Once off, sand down with grit paper both knuckle and spindle, add anti-seize on both the spindle and knuckle.

    (Jeep TJ owners will have the same problem with the uni-bearing housing.)

    Since you are taking the TTB apart, remove the inner c-clip on the passenger diff axle. (You'll have to remove the diff housing from the swing arm of the TTB.) This will help with any problems in the field with broken axles. Place a valve spring in the slip joint of the passenger long inner axle to compensate for the missing c-clip retainer for the diff axle. If you want to get spare shafts, get the u-joints also. Install the joints into the axles. With how the TTB is, there are 2 shafts for every joint. Break a joint, pull the shafts and throw in the pre-made spares. No other work is necessary in the field.
    Mike
    Jagular7
    Lnxa, KS

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys- I'll give these a shot. Autozone, generous chaps, lent me a 10lb slide hammer and spindle puller. I'm not optimistic, but others on the interweb say it works.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjp1969
    Thanks guys- I'll give these a shot. Autozone, generous chaps, lent me a 10lb slide hammer and spindle puller. I'm not optimistic, but others on the interweb say it works.
    Wow, 2 minutes with the slide hammer and the sucker popped right off. If you've ever got to remove a stubborn spindle, get one of these things- its like magic: http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP361/...ductDetail.htm

    Peace out.

    Kevin

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjp1969
    Wow, 2 minutes with the slide hammer and the sucker popped right off. If you've ever got to remove a stubborn spindle, get one of these things- its like magic: http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP361/...ductDetail.htm

    Peace out.

    Kevin
    Never saw one before, thanks for the tip
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  8. #8
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    The ball joint/ tie rod extravaganza has been the most frustrating projects ever- not one single nut gave up easily, not one single joint separated without a hammer, a torch, or a special tool. But it's done! Last weekend I buttoned up the knuckles reinstalled everything, did a string alignment in my garage (within .1" of correct toe!) and then had it aligned "for real."

    Now I've just got to drive the heck out of it and see if anything breaks on the street. In a couple of weeks, I'll probably be comfortable enough with it to take it on the trail.

    By the way, I picked up a shackle bracket from Expedition Exchange's shop in Torrance the other day. Good guys, I'll be back. Does anyone else but me VASTLY prefer buying from a real human being instead of online?

    Kevin

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