New Guy with a question about a aftermarket hydraulic clutch set up for my Blazer.

kiaser

New member
Hey guys I've been lurking around this site for sometime and finally I'm writing to get your advice. I'm just about finished with my install of a aftermarket hydraulic clutch set up. I'll be posting pic's along with my questions. I read somewhere on another website how to do this and now that website is shut down. I bought a Tilton hydraulic cylinder and a Howe throw out bearing along with a remote bleeder kit. I proceeded to yank out the sm465 and np205. 1.jpg

I then installed the stud that came with the throw-out bearing into the sm465. This stud keeps the throw-out bearing from spinning.
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A little bit of Loctite
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I also had to use one shim that came with the bearing. It's gold in the pictures.
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Attached the lines
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kiaser

New member
Continued....

Assembly
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Man I struggled to get the bearing and transmission shaft thru the bellhousing. So I found it easier to just let it sit in there while I carefully lined it up.
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Here is a good look at the bearing in the bell housing with everything all bolted back together.
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View attachment 257234
Next is the master cylinder install. I used a knock out set to punch thru the firewall.
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I picked the best spot I could somewhere on the firewall that would not interfer with the wiper motor and the wiring harness. I couldin't get it exactly level.
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kiaser

New member
Continued....

The hole that I knocked out is the top one in the picture.
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I then installed the remote reservoir.
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I had to add some washers on the backside because there was a crease in the only place I could put it. Imagine that!
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Remote reservoir, Master cylinder and hoses installed.
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Next is the clutch pedal. I had to add a piece of metal to the backside of it. You'll have to forgive me for my welds. I know there not that great but it works.
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kiaser

New member
Continued....

I then installed the clutch pedal and attached the pivot arm to it. And this is where my question comes in. I am trying to find out the best way to determine how to measure the correct length on the arm. I need to figure out where the pedal needs to stop and if there is a better way of attaching it. Right now it's not easy to adjust if I needed to. Any help would be appreciated.
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Also this install was pretty straight forward. If there is any questions about it I would be happy to answer them.

Thanks
James
 

superbuickguy

Explorer
You did a nice job installing that... however (and, if you really don't believe me I'll post a picture of that throwout bearing and that master cylinder on my shelf) the master cylinder will leak... not if, will at the rubber seal where it attaches the reservoir to the base - makes a nice smell on your exhaust manifold. The throwout bearing, Speedway motors sell the heck out of those on their garage sale section because they leak and take the clutch disk out with them... want to guess how I know this?

The fixes - get a reservoir from any of the sandrail/dune buggy suppliers, they cost almost the same as the wilwood one but they're made completely of aluminum so they don't leak. The throwout bearing... keep your eyes open for a GM bellhousing from a 88 up truck, then buy a patent part replacement (the GM one is a complete master cylinder, line, and slave cylinder set up) - they run about 20 bucks.

I know this is buzz kill, but that throwout bearing seemed like such a good idea to me too; but once I installed it, it started leaking. Because the upper reservoir was leaking, I didn't realize the throwout was too.... it was an expensive lesson. I used a far more expensive slave, but I'm using a blow-proof bellhousing my Corvette so I don't have the option to run the GM housing... though I am putting that very system together on my FJ40

sorry man.
 

kiaser

New member
well That sucks to find out. I'm still gonna run with it. I have it already installed, but I will keep a look out for what you mentioned. Thanks for the info
 

coastal616

Adventurer
That's sweet, I did a similar swap with a 1uz in my '66 volvo project. I skipped the aftermarket hydraulic throwouts because of the leaks and got an OEM unit from a mid 90's Camaro or something like that. It works awesome.



 

Larry

Bigassgas Explorer
Welcome Kiaser!

Wholly cow, that is a lot of work and expense to get a hydraulic clutch. Any particular reason you didn't just use off the shelf 85-91 square body GM truck hydraulic clutch bits and pieces? The nice thing about using off the shelf GM stuff is if there is failure on the trail you can pretty much walk into any dime store parts store and get a new widget. You can't do that with exotic aftermarket stuff plus internal slave cylinders are habitual about leaking where you need to remove the entire trans to deal with it.

I would imagine there will be a lot of adjusting the m/c rod to get the right throw on it. Good luck! That is going to be a PITA. Maybe someone that deals with race cars could give you guidance on that. My recommendation would have been not to use an aftermarket system in the first place. But I got to tell you, I love the reservoir system with your Titlon setup. I've never see that before. I just looked up the Tilton part numbers and will be ordering the reservoir bits to replace my factory GM tiny reservoir for added capacity.

I was noticing it looks like you need to reinforce your firewall at the master cylinder yet still. As you step on the clutch the firewall will flex in and out like an oil can affect, which in time will result in fatigue cracking on the firewall. This flexing can be so slight you may not even notice it but it will be there. On the hydraulic clutch rigs GM ran two rods from the actual clutch pedal bracket to the m/c where the rods actually became the studs for the m/c to bolt to. That design ties the m/c directly to the clutch pedal with no possibility for firewall flex.

I'm going to use your Tilton idea to upgrade the stock reservoir on my 85 to 91 design in my '78 K10 & '89 Suburban. The stock reservoir is way too small.
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It's too late now but you could have used this $40 Advance Adapters bracket (pn 715535) to bolt a stock 85-91 slave on a non-hydro bell then used factory GM slave, master and hose to plumb it. They work great and replacement parts can be found just about anywhere.
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This is how the AA bracket looks mounted up. The nice thing is if the slave leaks, it is easy to service and it doesn't drench your clutch and pressure plate in the meantime.
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As you probably know, there are differences in pedal assemblies from mechanical to hydro clutch. Here you can see the mechanical pedal box on the right and the hydro on the left. Those two rods on the hydro pedal have studs on the end where the master bolts. The problem is these hydro pedal boxes are getting harder and harder to find for square body trucks. Again, the hydro pedals can be found in 85-91 square body truck, K5's and Burbs. Using a stock hydro pedal assembly would take the guess work out of figuring out the pedal to rod geometry for proper m/c operation.
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You can see here from the back side how the rods with studs support the m/c.
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Good luck with your project. I have a stinking suspension you're going to be fiddling with this for a long time to make it work right. Personally, I avoid as many exotic aftermarket parts as possible in my powertrain just to keep it simple and make it easy sourcing replacement parts if something goes wrong while traveling around the back country of the Southwest. A stock stock GM slave is easy to comeby even in the middle of nowhere Utah backcountry but a racecar slave....nada.
 

coastal616

Adventurer
I've done a few clutch setups with weird linkage hydraulics, always been super simple to get the throw right, usually 1 adjustment and it's good to go.

Including a ford pedal assembly, adapted to a wilwood master, pushing on a volvo semi truck air/hydraulic slave. Total piece of cake to adjust. ;)

 

kiaser

New member
Larry thanks for the info, and I'll keep a eye out for what you said but for right now it is what it is. It wasn't that expensive of a set-up. I do like your point of being able to source parts when I break down.But for right now until Dallas get some mountains and not more buildings, I won't be braving it in the wilderness anytime soon (just the crazy concrete jungle).
Coastal616 I like the bracket on that pedal assembly with the Wilwood.
 

highdesertranger

Adventurer
so what is the advantage of a hydro clutch? I can see several disadvantages but no advantages. plus I don't like the feel of a hydro clutch you really can't feel your clutch. give me an old mechanical any day. highdesertranger
 

coastal616

Adventurer
so what is the advantage of a hydro clutch? I can see several disadvantages but no advantages. plus I don't like the feel of a hydro clutch you really can't feel your clutch. give me an old mechanical any day. highdesertranger

Smooth, linear motion, reduced pedal effort, simplicity with no levers, packaging, easy adjustment...those would be the advantages in my opinion.
 

plumber mike

Adventurer
Smooth, linear motion, reduced pedal effort, simplicity with no levers, packaging, easy adjustment...those would be the advantages in my opinion.

The bodies of the old trucks twisted so bad, you could get it fine tuned in the driveway and take it out wheeling, finding that when the truck is flexed the clutch may not disengage.......at all. That's always been my gripe with a mechanical linkage.
 

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