Unimog 1300 L

rasu

New member
Back to my issue ......

Is here someone who is able to say exactely which documents MUST German or Dutch Unimog (ex-army - communal with plates is easy to import) have for smooth import to other country in European Union ?
I got into the first problem yesterday.
Ex-Bundeswehr Unimog 1300 L of my interest had valid "ABE (allgemeine Betriebs Erlaubnis)" and "Datenbestatigung", but not registered plates and such truck is not able to register unfortunately.
Any help regarding this isues is HIGHLY appreciated.
Big thanks in andvance.
 

julius0377

Adventurer
In practice, you import Unimog as the truck first (if you built by yourselves later in Norway) with VAT paid only before Mog goes over Norwegian border and than in some period add material and your own work to finish camper box.
Do I understand well that before change in registration documents from truck to camper truck you must pay 1/3 tax of added value ?

No, not tax on added value, but tax on change of vehicle type (from truck to camper), this figure will differ if you import it as an old camper, or if you import as a new camper (the years are deducted). You should really check with toll.no (they answer inqueries) before you purchase/plan anything!

Sencondly changing status is not as straight forward as it may seem. You need to either be a certified builder providing necessary documentation of the build, or you need to apply for status as a private vehicle builder. (I'm not 100 % certain of this, seems some people manage to register their own builds).

I would expect a way around the tax altogether could be if you had a detachable camper box where the truck could have a normal use as a truck and still be registered as a truck (like container transport trucks). This would give a completely different set of engineering problems for the camper box and truck connection (frame twist's etc.)
 

rasu

New member
Thanks again Julius0377.
all clear now. I don´t plan to import Mog to Norway, but if you visit this country as a tourist you have to think on some facts after just short time spent in the country.
For example relatively high prices of fuel is hard to understand while Norway is one of very famous oil producer and so on ...

Therefore I asked about the tax for imported truck to have better knowledge about your country.

Once Mog is successfuly registered as truck, for me seems to be easy to built the camper box in acordance with regulation.
Of cause I have to follow Mercedes-Benz restrictions, European road regulation and so on, but build itselves I can make by my hands (have confirmed).
But, before the change in truck registration (from truck to camper) I must get a stamp that the build was correctly technically done.
This certificate gives me Dekra.
Of cause, some real tests might be wanted for extra expences.
In any case, I like to to do it this way, prefer to know every detail of the Mog I can know.

Still work on collectiong clear information regarding "easy import" of the Mog inside European Union .....
 
Last edited:

ianc

Adventurer Wannabe
I don't know the situation in other countries but in Ireland (the land of the thieving tax man) you also end up paying tax once you convert the van based on 2 factors - The increase in value and also the change from commercial (low tax) to non commercial (high tax).
 

rasu

New member
After many calls, questions and calls again all seems to be clear regarding import of the truck .... :).
Taxes are not a problem, even fees for registration changes to category M1.

But, the rebuild manual for old Unimog is a problem to get.
Mercedes supports PDFs for new models only on the portal.

Does anyone have Mercedes Unimog 1300 L or 1350 "Bodybuilder" manual in English please ?

Mercedes says that I can use the actual version for new Mogs, but I would like to get an old if possible.
If so, big thanks in advance.

Merry Christmas :)
 

rasu

New member
I have made some searching for 1300L and in the meantime 1350L came widely to the market.
Waiting for Abenteuer Allrad 2015 in Bad Kisingen and than like to make a final decesion.

Could someone of you let me know the major points on difference between 1300L and 1350L please ?
1350L is priced bit more, but is 10 years younger and even with EURO2 :).

Thank you.
 

Rally Truck

New member
Buy the 1350. (actually it is a 1550L).
I own a highly modified 1985 1300L (claas overdrive, fast axles, 253hp and 70mph cruise) and I own a 1996 1350L ex Belgian Army (currently stock).
I am selling the 1300L and will slightly modify the 1350L to 211hp (all stock parts) and will add a Claas next month. That is all the modifications needed.

The 1350L has a reinforced frame, 2piece Digo axles, fast ratio axles, heavy duty 3.65 transmission, reinforced transfer case, intercooler, Om366LA engine. The wheels are heavier duty along with the larger diameter studs an flanged lug nuts.

The interior is quieter, the dash is the later version, intermitent wipers, etc. If you are putting a camper on the truck, the 1350L has a GVW of 8500kg vs the 1300L 7500kg.

And most important, no more lock washers on the truck. Most of the fasteners are flanged head and flanged nuts with locktite.

If you can get a 1350L buy it. It cost about $1500 to boost the power from 136hp to 211hp, or you can go from 136hp to 240hp for about $3200 using all factory parts without fear of excessive EGTs.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,821
Messages
2,878,578
Members
225,378
Latest member
norcalmaier
Top