01-06 Suburban/Yukon XL 2500

rayra

Expedition Leader
well your flat pronouncement got me off my butt to look at the glove compartment code sheets for both. The '05 Tahoe is a 4.10, code GT5. The '02 Suburban is 3.73, code GT4. Both are full-option LT(Z) factory Z-71s. So it's a typical mish-mash by GM. There are various listings online saying 3.73 on newer models as well. (shrug)

/I sure wouldn't want the 4.10s if I was putting a lot of highway miles on it as a daily driver. That's throwing away 10% of your potential fuel economy right off the bat.
 

TheViking

Adventurer
Thank you both for the input and clarification. Pulling a mountain the 4.10 might be a better shot and I could fit 285's without any gearing issues.
 

Kaisen

Explorer
My two cents:

For one thing, 4.10s vs 3.73 doesn't mean throwing away 10% in fuel economy off the bat. IT DEPENDS, it's just math. How fast are you driving? What's the engine load? Which engine? Yes, there's a ~10% difference in gearing, but not all of that will show in your gas receipts because there's a lot more to it. In my own, specific, personal use where I'm driving 65+ mph when it's freeway time and have plenty of power at lower rpm, the 3.73s work better for me. In even mildly hilly terrain and/or 55 mph speeds, you may find that the 4.10s work much better and doesn't force the hunting in and out of overdrive all the time. Tires effect gearing too, so a 285/75-16 on a 4.10 is pretty close to a stock 265/70-16 on a 3.73. The point is, you can't make a blanket statement.

Also, there are differences between a 1500 and 2500 beyond the motor. The biggest difference to consider is that the 1/2 ton will have coil springs in the rear, where the 3/4 ton will have leaf springs. This means a lot to ride under load, sag, axle articulation off road, and how they deal with a trailer. Not that one is automatically better than another, but it's certainly different enough to consider. The front torsion bars on the 3/4 ton are considerably longer (rear mount is further back), and the bar itself is thicker. The 1/2 ton will have smaller brakes (both calipers and rotor thickness/mass), already a concern in this vintage Suburban. If it's a 8.1L it will have Hydroboost brakes and power steering, where the 1/2 ton always has vacuum assist brakes. The 1/2 ton will have a 4L60E transmission, where the 3/4 ton will have a much heavier-duty 4L80E (or 4L85E if 8.1L, depending on year). They both use the same NV246 transfer case. The rear differential on a 1/2 ton is a 10 bolt 8.5" semi-floating axle, where the 3/4 ton will have a 14 bolt 11.5" full-floating axle. The front differential on the 3/4 ton is 9.25" versus the 1/2 ton's 8.25" gear. The front axles and CVs are larger as well. The wheel bearings and hubs on the 3/4 ton are physically larger, and have side bearings in the rear (full-float) for better lateral-load support.

In my opinion, and in my experience (in half ton GMT800 Subs/Denalis/Escalades too), there is only a 1-3 mpg overall difference between the 'best' 1/2 ton 5.3L 3.73 and the 'worst' 3/4 ton 8.1L 4.10. You're just not going to get better than 17 mpg on the freeway, and no worse than about 14 mpg (my personal experience), and around town not better than 12 and no worse than 9. So 3 mpg delta, at most. Towing you may actually get *better* with the larger motor/gearing as it's not working as hard.

Just my two cents
 

TheViking

Adventurer
My wife's family tends to be on the heavy side and then the trailer size I would ideally pull would be a 16/18 footer with a 10K rating. I started looking at the Z71 first but the 6.0 4L80E or 8.1 4L85E appear to be superior to the 4L60E in build and reliability. I'm not totally apposed to the Z71 as they are far more numerous and cheaper that the 2500 brethren.

As always thanks for your imput.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
well my own bias is towards higher speeds and only towing about 2-3x a year, so my own preference has been 3.73. My old pickup only has the 3-spd THM350, so I've longed for the Overdrive and had some pains regarding fuel economy.
If you are towing a trailer that heavy plus a bunch of people weight, you probably would do better with the 4.10. And as I opened with, I've read much the same recommendations re 4L80 vs 60 and was initially set on the 2500 series. I've got plans for a toy hauler trailer converted into a mobile carpenter workshop, so I leaned towards the heavier duty vehicle. But I had a very hard time finding any in my region, in my budget. I'm more in a land of 2wd soccer mom taxis. Had to drive 100-150mi round trips to kick the tires on 4wd suburbans. And my own experiences with towing with the 5.3L and 4L60 have been favorable. So ultimately I went with the lighter duty, it having proven itself many times.
Either way, the Suburban series is well up to the task. Tons of room and capabilities. Enjoy the shopping and I look forward to seeing another Suburban here.
 

TheViking

Adventurer
I wonder why people buy them from the factory in two wheel drive I'm of the mindset better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it. A friend has a 2500 Dodge gets stuck in ditches in the winter has to use his tractor to get himself out....
 

TriBeard

New member
I just traded in my 2000 Tahoe (it was the newer, rounded body style). It served me well for the time I had it. It had just over 185000 on the clock when I sold it. The only things to really watch out for on these trucks is the fuel pump likes to burn itself out, particularly if you run the tank down to a quarter or less often, and the 4L60 transmission isn't the strongest. There are certainly worse transmissions, but this one doesn't have a fantastic reputation for reliability. With a 2500 though, you'll probably be getting the 4L80, which is much more bulletproof. If I had it to do again, I'd probably get the suburban as the only real downside is just a bit more of a parking challenge, but you get a lot more interior space, particularly if you are using the third row. You also get a little more stability while towing due to the longer wheelbase.

I pulled everything from a 4-wheeler to a 7400ish pound camper, and for the most part it was fine. The camper was a little more than I would really want to do with it on anything resembling a regular basis, and the 7 mpg I got pulling it hurt, but it did it.
 

TheViking

Adventurer
I just traded in my 2000 Tahoe (it was the newer, rounded body style). It served me well for the time I had it. It had just over 185000 on the clock when I sold it. The only things to really watch out for on these trucks is the fuel pump likes to burn itself out, particularly if you run the tank down to a quarter or less often, and the 4L60 transmission isn't the strongest. There are certainly worse transmissions, but this one doesn't have a fantastic reputation for reliability. With a 2500 though, you'll probably be getting the 4L80, which is much more bulletproof. If I had it to do again, I'd probably get the suburban as the only real downside is just a bit more of a parking challenge, but you get a lot more interior space, particularly if you are using the third row. You also get a little more stability while towing due to the longer wheelbase.

I pulled everything from a 4-wheeler to a 7400ish pound camper, and for the most part it was fine. The camper was a little more than I would really want to do with it on anything resembling a regular basis, and the 7 mpg I got pulling it hurt, but it did it.
What was your mileage average?
 

DaneHauler

New member
I'd suggest the 2500 over the 1500! I'm on my 4th Suburban in close to 25 years. Have a pair now. The 1500 is more driver friendly but it's mostly stock. The 2500 has a lift, big tires, a supercharger and some other goodies, much more of a trail beast, yet a nice highway cruiser also. The heavier 2500 with a larger motor will out pull a 1500 and out stop it. The 2500 will pull easier from a drivers viewpoint also. If you'll mostly be hauling passengers only, the 1500 will do nicely. If you're going to tow with a full passenger load you want a 2500. Off road they're sorta long, so take care with overhang and high centering. Upgrade shocks, brakes, wheels, tires, exhaust and intake, add some front skidplates, and you will have a solid Suburban!
 

chaos616

Adventurer
kaisen mentioned the 2500 hd burbs have 11.5" rear ends with both gasser motors, I have a 2500HD GMC pickup with the 6.0L and it has a 10.5" rear end, just wondering if that is the case or did some burbs come with the 10.5" too. I could see that though as the burb is a bit heavier in the rear end statically, no load. Although the pickups are rated for a large payload too? Not a big deal either way, both rear ends are bulletproof, literally.

With these trucks I find the more I know, the less I know.

As far as the 6.0L, i have a blackbear tune, good because I can change gears and tire sizes and the computer is right, also going to have some computer things deleted etc... I like the tune on the 6.0, get about 12-13 mpg on highway so not great but my truck is highly modified so that probably doesn't help either. The tune makes the engine and tranny more responsive and makes the truck feel lighter somehow. Its also quite fast if that even matters, 0-60 stock was about 6.5 sec. not bad for a 6500 lb rated truck.

Sorry for the sidetrack...

Cheers,
 

Kaisen

Explorer
If this is about fuel economy, buy a new 2015 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2L and 8 speed automatic. In my personal experience, I can get 21-22 mpg on the freeway and 16-17 mpg around town. And it's much more powerful than my 8.1L.
 

plumber mike

Adventurer
That's impressive

You think? I didn't. It has never got the 20mpg highway that we had heard about. These numbers are all empty miles. We don't haul anything with that one. She got 19.6 at 65 mph on her trip for thanksgiving. That's a best ever for this truck. All stock.
 

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