TaTundra 1 gen DC build

tyv12

Adventurer
2 days before we leave and the starter decided to pack it in, I guess better now than in the bush. I heat these are an adventure to change
 

toyotech

Expedition Leader
So heading for for a couple week trip through sputhern BC and crowsnest pass. As far as the alcan springs I'm a little disappointed with their weight carrying ability. I ordered them with an additional 600lbs carrying capacity but as you can see from the pic with 300# on the hitch it lowers the back end about 2" which I wasn't really expecting but I haven't decided how I'm gonna address that.



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Maybe get some input from other 1geb guys but I have had multiple alignments where my specs are in the DJ spec range but constantly the truck is bumped out of alignment even when it's not offroad. I have already put spc alignment cams but still having trouble getting it dialed in. Always pulling slightly right and driving me crazy. Makes me wanna take a torch to the front suspension and put an axle instead

A lot of it is due to where the weight is located i been slowly learning as well with all the weight on my swing out which wasn't much more compared to my old set up. I bet the bed can handle 600lbs no issues but being on the hitch means more leverage on the springs.


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wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
So got the leafs finished up just need bump stops and wow the flex is unbelievable I can walk up stuff that i was lifting tires on before. I'm very impressed and I ended up 1/2" higher than my last setup which is fine.
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Also got the manual proportioning valve in, that is a massive difference. I think my other one was blown. Now the pedal is way stiffer and I can actually feel the rear brakes grabbing. When I bled them I could hear the star wheel ratcheting in the drum and now I can manually adjust how much braking goes to the rear. Right now I've got it 50% front 50% rear and let the fact that the rear end has drums do the proportioning.
So you plug the bottom of this tee
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Then this sucker on the line to the rear brakes heads up its a bubble flare so takes some adaptors to work with Toyotas inverted flare and made a bracket near the abs module

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Thanks for the heads up in my thread that you did this.
Question for you. You went with an under the hood mount by the ABS module. Looks like you kept the stock line to use as the OUT (heading to the rear) and made a new short line from the ABS module to the IN?

In the rear, what did you do to hook up the lines? Any pictures?

I was thinking of mounting my valve in the rear under the bed, but I like under the engine bay to keep things clean/easier to adjust.

For the rear, my plan was gonna be to shorten my supply line right where the gas tank ends, mounting it to the IN there, then cutting and bending the stock line that heads towards the rubber line/axle for the out.
How did you do it? Make a new longer line to feed the axle in one? Make an adapter and keep the two stock lines together?

Thanks!
 

tyv12

Adventurer
I'll look at it again and get some more info it's actually really simple, are u in edmonton as well?
 

wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
Ya I am in Edmonton.

Thanks, thad be great. Just one picture of the rear will answer all my questions on how you did it.

I know how to do it, just trying to sort out the best way to go about it, using the least fittings, ect.
 

tyv12

Adventurer
Picked up a set of 315/75r16 Cooper ST maxx gonna put then on some fn 5 spoke wheels in matte bronze, just waiting for the wheels then time for some tubbing
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wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
Picked up a set of 315/75r16 Cooper ST maxx gonna put then on some fn 5 spoke wheels in matte bronze, just waiting for the wheels then time for some tubbing
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Good choice. I ended up going with the Five Stars for my winter setup a few years ago. I wanted the F5's, but they were out of stock at the time.
Now, I have some F5's on the way, so I guess everything works out well in the end.

Best picture I have.
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I'll see how my new Duratras hold up in the winter. I was thinking of selling my winter setup, but I'd never get what I paid for it and studded Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT2 are amazing in the snow. I know the Duratracs will be better than my BFG A/Ts but I still might miss my winters.

How can you not love that tread pattern?
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Wow, gonna be lots of DC tubbing this year.

Did you have a chance to get a pic of your rear brake line setup?
 
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tyv12

Adventurer
I'll grab those pics tomorrow night for ya on the brake setup

I've been wanting to upgrade for a while and got a killer deal on tires and love the stance of DC's on 35s
 

tyv12

Adventurer
So here's the rear brake like pic, I was able to unthread the line from the LPSV and reach the rear brake line luckily, the bypass like going back up to the front is deleted. Also the manual proportioning valve is bubble flare fittings so you will need some adaptors and a little bit of brake line flaring, Gregg's distributors had everything I needed. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.
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Also curious from a few other DC guys if you could measure from the fender to the centre of the front hub what distance that is. Mine is 21.25". Just curious what some of u guys are at to compare thanks
 

wrenchMonkey_

Adventurer
So here's the rear brake like pic, I was able to unthread the line from the LPSV and reach the rear brake line luckily, the bypass like going back up to the front is deleted. Also the manual proportioning valve is bubble flare fittings so you will need some adaptors and a little bit of brake line flaring, Gregg's distributors had everything I needed. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic.
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Also curious from a few other DC guys if you could measure from the fender to the centre of the front hub what distance that is. Mine is 21.25". Just curious what some of u guys are at to compare thanks


Thanks. The thought of the stock OEM LSPV reaching the soft line heading down the the axle didn't even cross my mind. Sometimes, you look for the hard solution when the easy one is right in front of you.
That answers my questions, too easy. Thanks. I was gonna say damn I have to buy some line, but if you removed/deletes your OEM return line, I guess I have some 3/16 line to use now :) I was gonna leave it, but my OCD would bug me.

I'll get you some measurements tomorrow.
 

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