Suburban/Yukon known issues list to fix before it's an issue

[mike the welder]

I want to make my Suburban as reliable as possible and fix known issues before they become an issue. I plan on keeping it a long time and hate sitting on the side of the road. Please post any known or found issues you have heard of that can be proactively fixed or repaired. The way I figure $500-$1000 a year in proactive repairs and maintenance is cheaper than payments on a new truck.

I'll start,

Heater hose fittings and bypass valve. Theses plastic fittings become brittle and crack and break. I had the 'Y' fitting crack and leak shortly after I bought my Burb and it emptied the cooling system in a matter of minutes. I replaced most of the heater hose, the fittings and bypass valve for about $50 in a couple of hours.

New fittings and bypass ready to install.



Fuel injection spider. I have read the VORTEC SPIDER FUEL INJECTORS have issues as they age and cause hesitation and bad fuel economy. There is a upgrade replacement available. I plan on replacing mine shortly after Christmas because I do have some hesitation off the line and it's driving me nuts. I have read this is about a 2 hour process with regular hand tools, about $180.

Here is an article that explains the problem, benefits and procedure in converting your Vortec CSFI injection to MPFI injection.

http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/Vortec_spider_fuel_injection_conversion.html

 

[rayra]

Didn't say what year ranges.

Fuel pumps. Always fuel pumps. Lot of soccer moms scudding about on a 1/4 tank or less, leads to overheating of the pump and shortened lifespan. If someone buys a used one they just better start planning on it. Change it before you have to, at a time of your own choosing and convenience.

Read often about Vortec motors and intake manifold gaskets.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ps7_vw9aUQ


ProTip - when changing the water pump on the Vortecs, upon reassembly startup, hold at high RPMs for a short while to prevent formation of an air pocket at the impeller, causing overheating on your test run.



eta - I'd like to hear / read more about 'lifetime lubed' front bearing assemblies on the K series. And about the electric locks on the differentials.

 

[barefoot boy]

My experience with the "lifetime lubed" unit front wheel bearings is they do not last long. In my 2003 2500HD pickup I replaced each side twice in 250K miles. If you are really lucky, the camber change as it is failing ruins your tire also.

 

[barefoot boy]

As far as the Vortec intake gaskets, they also are problematic as pointed out by rayra. I replaced mine with Felpro Problemsolver gaskets which so far have worked OK. I really recommend an Airlift cooling system refilling tool. It uses your compressed air to pull a strong vacuum on your cooling system to check for leaks, and then the vacuum is used to suck coolant into the entire cooling system to avoid air pockets; I have used mine for several years now and really like how it works.

 

[kojackJKU]

This is not a replace before it breaks but rather preventive matienece. Treat your tranny with care. I grenade mine last year while plowing snow. Had it rebuilt, and they told me the transmissions in the suburbans are prone to failure if abused. I treat mine with kid gloves now to make sure it lasts. Mines going in this week for new front brakes since my caliper is sticking. as well as the AC pump making a horrible noise too.

 

[barefoot boy]

If your truck does not have a transmission temperature gauge, I would highly recommend adding one. A relatively easy install is to put a drain plug kit in the transmission pan and install the 1/8" npt Autometer type sending unit in place of the 1/8" npt plug. If the drain plug kit comes with plastic washers, I recommend replacing them with copper washers. Every plastic washer I have installed eventually cracks and leaks.

 

[Sooper Camper]

aren't the transfer cases on some of the HD models known to wear through the groove in the aluminum body where the pump arm is located? I can't remember which case it was specifically unfortunately...
gauge clusters, and climate control unit illumination bulbs were the 2 frequent failures i remember seeing when I worked at a 12v/stereo/upholstery shop.

 

[calicamper]

I want to make my Suburban as reliable as possible and fix known issues before they become an issue. I plan on keeping it a long time and hate sitting on the side of the road. Please post any known or found issues you have heard of that can be proactively fixed or repaired. The way I figure $500-$1000 a year in proactive repairs and maintenance is cheaper than payments on a new truck.

I'll start,

Heater hose fittings and bypass valve. Theses plastic fittings become brittle and crack and break. I had the 'Y' fitting crack and leak shortly after I bought my Burb and it emptied the cooling system in a matter of minutes. I replaced most of the heater hose, the fittings and bypass valve for about $50 in a couple of hours.

New fittings and bypass ready to install.
View attachment 259208


Fuel injection spider. I have read the VORTEC SPIDER FUEL INJECTORS have issues as they age and cause hesitation and bad fuel economy. There is a upgrade replacement available. I plan on replacing mine shortly after Christmas because I do have some hesitation off the line and it's driving me nuts. I have read this is about a 2 hour process with regular hand tools, about $180.

Here is an article that explains the problem, benefits and procedure in converting your Vortec CSFI injection to MPFI injection.

http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/Vortec_spider_fuel_injection_conversion.html

View attachment 259209

If your at 100K and your really worried about being stranded swap out the fuel pump with a new one. Last big multi state trip I did was in a Yukon with 109K on it fuel pump packed it up at 75mph. Flat bed ride into Elko NV to the Napa store. Three hours later in the parking lot we were back on the road. Napa stocks those pumps on the shelf because of the high rate of failure. To do the job you drop the front end of the drive line, drop the fuel tank you need a special wrench to spin the plate off the top of the fuel pump then swap in the new one re-install etc. Clearly easier with air suspension aired up with the tires on blocks for added space which we had. Also much easier if the fuel tank isn't full.

 

[mike the welder]

I realize I did not put the year ranges in the title so how about we post what year the problem/fix is in each reply. I have a 99, but I'm also trying to talk my brother out of his 1990 2500. It is pristine, 80k original miles and he only drives it 4-5 times a year.

My suburban is a 1999 with 175k and I have no documentation from the first owner just the second owner. It mostly included tires, oil changes, rear disk breaks and lift kit added. I might jump on the injector spider and fuel pump in January. My fuel gauge needle is vibrating which I read is a symptom of the fuel pump/sender assembly nearing it's end.

barefoot boy, did you replace the intake gaskets before it was a problem? How long did it take?

 

[rayra]

There's several youtube vids showing the process and that it takes about 3hrs for an experienced hand. But it's straightforward, figure an all-day saturday project.

I'm same spot re fuel pump, bought at 116k from a 3rd rate dealer after auctions, limited servicing info via carfax. But the low mileage matches those records as does the general condition. The last 3 weeks I've been performing a general overall 100k mi service. Fluid changes all around. I've got a lot of oily schmutz (technical term) on the engine block, presuming it's the intake manifold gasket. Running find and getting good mileage, I've put about 400mi on it so far, running strong. So I'm not even going to degrease anything on the motor / around the intake manifold gasket line, until I'm ready to replace it. The gunk might be keeping it in good running condition. Haven't even pulled plugs or checked compression yet.

I'm planning a Death Valley excursion this winter sometime, maybe March. Will likely replace the fuel pump before that trip. Not the place to have a fuel pump failure. $250-340. I'll do the work myself.

---

Another typical fault is the bearing on the serpentine belt tensioner. Around 100k. Part costs about $35 and it's a simple swap.
I also intend to change both it and my working belt ($20-35 part), and bump my existing belt to emergency spare status.

 

[mike the welder]

Yep, I've been watching videos for the last 2 hours and it seems the spider injector process is about 2/3 of the process to do the intake gasket. I might just plan on a whole weekend and do the intake, spider injector and fuel pump all at the same time. Not cheap though, the spider injector is $300 by it's self. Looks like about $500-$600 to do all three plus 25%.(it always cost about 25% more than I figure it will)

After looking at the prices of new trucks last year, I plan to keep this one for awhile. I figure the more I can do to keep it in good condition the longer it will last and I won't have a $600 a month payment. I can do allot of maintenance for less than $7200 a year a new truck would cost me.

Good luck in Death Valley.

 

[barefoot boy]

No, I fixed the intake gaskets when one of my oil analysis results indicated trace coolant in the oil. I pressure tested the cooling system and had the dreaded coolant leak running down the passenger side front side of the block. My Vortec engine is in my 4x4 van I built, so it was a terrible job. Vans are generally awful to work on...

 

[barefoot boy]

Good call on the serpentine tensioner. Whenever I buy a used Chevy truck (which is all I ever buy now) I always replace the water pump, serpentine belt, serpentine idler pulley, serpentine tensioner, alternator, power steering pump. I keep all the removed parts as carry aboard spares. Yeah, some (perhaps many) people would think this practice foolish or "wasting money", but I would much rather work on it in my shop at my leisure than on the side of the road. Serpentine belts are great, but if any of the driven devices listed above lock a bearing you are pretty well stuck; no more cutting off the offending v belt and limping home. In-tank fuel pumps are famous for failing, and my experience has been it is usually when the tank is slopping full. Much easier to fix in the shop when the tank has only a little fuel in it. There is a special tool for the lock ring, but I have always just knocked the lock ring off with a blunt screwdriver and a hammer; I've never messed one up doing this. On your Vortec 'Burb, you will need the tool(s) to unlock the aggravating GM fuel line quick connects.

 

[jimed43]

I have a 1999 as well.

I have done the following over the last year.

1.) Ball Joint
2.) Starter
3.) Pulley Tennisoners and Serp. Belt Thanks again Mike
4.) Cap and Distrubtor
5.) Plugs and Wires
6.) All Fluids
7.) Idler and Steering Arm
8.) Driver's Door Interior Handle

2015 Should be the fun year with lift, wheels and tires.

 

[DTRAL]

98 Yukon 4D, 207K. Repair shop checklist:

Serp Belt dry
Oil cooler lines leaking
Oil filter gasket leaking
Exhaust "donut" left header
Rear Diff seal leaking
Rear Diff driveshaft seal leaking
Radiator leaking @ plastic tanks
Headlight control switch (dome override) fried
A/C - Heater Switch only works on 'High' (every Chevy I've ever had does this...#@$%@#!)

Trans hunts a little around 1,500 RPM, but the shop doesn't believe it's needing a re-build. If you hit up the GMT 400 or FullSizeChevy forum, they have a lot of tests and fixes for minor trans issues... allegedly, many of the problems with the 4L60E trans can be traced to the sensors. I hope I'm that lucky, but a 200K+ mile truck not needing a trans may be wishful thinking.