I am still trying to get my push buttons to work reliably on my sub. Anyone have any ideas about this. As it sits now, when I push 2wd, it goes to 4 low first, then when I push 2wd again it goes to 2wd, I have to push 4hi first then goto auto. I find this bad since I now do not have shift on the fly. Next question does anyone know if I can get true tracs for the front and rear ends of my burban as well.
Front and rear trutracs for 2005 suburban z71, and 4wd buttion issues.
- Thread starter kojackJKU
- Start date
TerryD
Adventurer
I wouldn't run a True-track in the front. The way they work I believe you would be looking at premature failure. You might be able to swap in a Yukon Denali AWD front axle that doesn't have the disconnect system on it and do alright but I'm not sure it would live long with the factory CAD axle.
As for the t-case, I think you need a new shift motor. That sounds to me like your travel switches are messed up.
As for the t-case, I think you need a new shift motor. That sounds to me like your travel switches are messed up.
TerryD
Adventurer
In the rear where both shafts are constantly loaded it would be great, but when you put your suburban in 2wd, the passengerside shaft is two piece and the locking collar on it disengages. Because of the helical cut gears in the Truetrack, it constantly loads the carrier, pinion and drive shaft.
I'm not sure the helical gear set in the Truetrack is designed to be run in this manner because it doesn't go open center like your current differential does.
I would swap to a AWD front axle assembly to eliminate the CAD (central axle disconnect) if you do try it because you'll still be turning all the drive line anyways but not putting undo stress on the helical gear set. However, I've heard regularly that this can cause issues when turning in 2wd.
I think I would put a Truetrack in the rear and drive it for a while to see if you even need one in the front. If you did, I think something like the ECTED differential would be better suited. Only locking up when you command and acting like a standard open differential the rest of the time.
I'm not sure the helical gear set in the Truetrack is designed to be run in this manner because it doesn't go open center like your current differential does.
I would swap to a AWD front axle assembly to eliminate the CAD (central axle disconnect) if you do try it because you'll still be turning all the drive line anyways but not putting undo stress on the helical gear set. However, I've heard regularly that this can cause issues when turning in 2wd.
I think I would put a Truetrack in the rear and drive it for a while to see if you even need one in the front. If you did, I think something like the ECTED differential would be better suited. Only locking up when you command and acting like a standard open differential the rest of the time.
1stDeuce
Explorer
If your Sub is an 8-lug, any diff that is listed for a 9.5" GM rear axle will also fit your 9.25" front axle. (Isn't that nice!!
)
If you have a 6-lug truck, there's not a diff made for it that I'm aware of.
While I LOVE TT's, and run one in the front of my Jeep with no regrets, I'm not sure how well it would do in an IFS rig... Or at least it would depend on your "offroading". If you keep weight on all the tires, like mud/sand/snow, then a TT will bind up and work very well to keep all four wheels turning. BUT if you are in rougher terrain, where IFS is prone to lightening or or lifting tires, the the TT becomes less effective. You can help it engage with the brakes, but if you're intending it for really rough stuff, you're probably going to be disappointed with it in something as heavy as a suburban.
I doubt you'd hurt the TT by running it in a CAD front axle, but it really isn't ideal. Fortunately, it's VERY easy to disable the CAD and have it be engaged all the time. I had a truck where the CAD motor failed and I didn't know until I was trying to turn the front driveshaft after changing the oil. Luckily it failed in 4wd position!!
Your shifting issues sound like the encoder on the actuator is funky. Pull the actuator off the side of the t-case, disassemble it and clean all the wiper contacts. Then put it back in. And exercise it a few times a month and you'll have a lot less problems.
I had been looking at putting the factory limited slip from a 9.5" AAM Dodge axle in my GMC, but I've yet to be somewhere that I need it, and the rear Gov Loc pulls me through just about anything. I did read where someone put a gov lock in the front of something... Given how they lock, I don't think I'd recommend that. CV's are very strong, but that's a lot of shock load when it does engage...
Chris
)If you have a 6-lug truck, there's not a diff made for it that I'm aware of.
While I LOVE TT's, and run one in the front of my Jeep with no regrets, I'm not sure how well it would do in an IFS rig... Or at least it would depend on your "offroading". If you keep weight on all the tires, like mud/sand/snow, then a TT will bind up and work very well to keep all four wheels turning. BUT if you are in rougher terrain, where IFS is prone to lightening or or lifting tires, the the TT becomes less effective. You can help it engage with the brakes, but if you're intending it for really rough stuff, you're probably going to be disappointed with it in something as heavy as a suburban.
I doubt you'd hurt the TT by running it in a CAD front axle, but it really isn't ideal. Fortunately, it's VERY easy to disable the CAD and have it be engaged all the time. I had a truck where the CAD motor failed and I didn't know until I was trying to turn the front driveshaft after changing the oil. Luckily it failed in 4wd position!!
Your shifting issues sound like the encoder on the actuator is funky. Pull the actuator off the side of the t-case, disassemble it and clean all the wiper contacts. Then put it back in. And exercise it a few times a month and you'll have a lot less problems.
I had been looking at putting the factory limited slip from a 9.5" AAM Dodge axle in my GMC, but I've yet to be somewhere that I need it, and the rear Gov Loc pulls me through just about anything. I did read where someone put a gov lock in the front of something... Given how they lock, I don't think I'd recommend that. CV's are very strong, but that's a lot of shock load when it does engage...
Chris