3.5 timing belt question

[DD196]

Going to look at an 01 tomorrow, current owner bought at 90K, it has 130K now and he doesn't know if it had a previous belt change and he didn't do it. Is there any easy access to see if the belt looks old and worn or is it major teardown to see it?

Also, how much does a good quality timing belt kit cost and where to get it?

thanks
Jeff

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Google "Montero timing belt inspection cover" and "Montero 3.5 timing belt kit".

 

[MascotRejct]

So, I just did my timing belt. I used the dayco one from rockauto.com that does not come with the front camshaft or crankshaft seals. $115 for that set. Best part was, the timing belt that was on it was actually in pretty good condition! As others may tell you, the seals should probably be ordered from a dealer. Apparently the OEM seals are much better than aftermarket. Also, it is a good idea to replace some other things while you are in there, such as valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, and if you are feeling adventurous, the valve stem seals. I tore mine down to the head gaskets since it had 209k miles on it and I wanted to be sure it would run right. I think I spent around $800 in parts total, including thermostat, both upper o2 sensors, among other things. I kinda stopped keeping track after a bit, but it wasn't over 1k. In answer to your other question, when I took mine apart, I noticed a little piece on the passenger side upper timing belt cover that comes off and acts as a sort of small window to view the timing belt through. I can't remember if it is held on with a bolt or just snaps into place though. I imagine it would be a good idea to bring a flashlight with you to look at the belt, because the hole is not very big and I don't think there is a lot of light. Another thing to watch for it the rear camshaft seals seem to be a common failure point, and leak oil all over the back of the engine and exhaust. Those were the reason I had to replace the o2 sensors. Hope this helps!

Edit: also, I'm not sure how much teardown is required to get to the little window thing. I didn't notice it until I had the cover off already... if I remember correctly, it is on the inboard side of the cover, but close to the top.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

This video will show you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJlVz9SawEE But please learn how to look up a few things in the future, it has all been covered.

 

[plh]

PM frequency on the timing belt is every 60K miles, so with 130K unknown change interval, your probably over due, your going to want to freshen the water pump and tensioner too.

 

[DD196]

FYI, 01s don't have the separate inspection cover as shown in the provided Youtube vid. Searching here and Google didn't turn up anything terribly definitive, thus the unfortunate repetitive questions. Sorry.

The reason for the question about the kits is when there are kits on Rock Auto ranging from $120 to almost $300 it would seem there might be a preferred brand or pricepoint.

The hunt goes on, another misrepresented craigslist Montero. Getting old.

 

[BOPOH]

the main reason for price range is water pump, some has only pump(front half) other kits include complete pump.

 

[nbishop]

I'm doing the timing belt on my gen 2 now. It is my first time doing a timing belt on any vehicle...I'm learning a lot.

Not sure at what point I screwed up, but when turning the engine one full cycle with the new belt, the belt jumped teeth on the crank sprocket. I turned a few more times and found that the when the camshaft pulleys were in time the crank was not. I believe I was told the crank turns once for every two camshaft revolutions. I don't know how many revolutions the crank and the camshafts are off.

In this case, how do I make sure that my cams and crank are cycled correctly before properly tensioning the belt again?

 

[BEG]

The crank turns twice for every one revolution of the cams. Line everything up as close to TDC as possible, remove the belt, turn the crank whichever way you need to to line it up with the timing mark and reinstall the belt. Start at the crank and work your way counter clockwise. You may have to turn the cam gears slightly clockwise as you guide the belt on to "get ahead" of the teeth, then take out the slack by turning the cam counter clockwise and your marks will line up.

 

[nbishop]

My worry is that with the belt slipping I will have the cams and crank lined up TDC, but the crank will have not turned in a 2:1 ratio to the cams. I am not sure if this will cause problems but I imagine it would. Can I verify the cycling of the cams and crank are correct?

 

[nckwltn]

if the belt is slipping, you don't have enough tension on the belt.... also turn clockwise not counter.

I've found that it's difficult to get the belt on with good tension on the right side if I put the crank at the timing mark. I usually back it off (counter clockwise) about a tooth, then put everything on. use binder clips to hold the belt to the cam pulleys.

that way when the crank turns a little, and puts tension on the right side of the V leading up to the driver's side cam pulley, the timing mark usually lines up and takes all of the slack out.

I'm sure you've noticed, but the driver's cam is a little loosey goosey, and the passenger side will slap one way or the other if moved just a little off the mark.

 

[BOPOH]

if you were turning your engine by hand there is no way you caused any damage unless you were REALLY trying, even then (according to this forum) you can skip up to 6 teeth. Mine skipped 2 and there was no damage at all

 

[BEG]

My worry is that with the belt slipping I will have the cams and crank lined up TDC, but the crank will have not turned in a 2:1 ratio to the cams. I am not sure if this will cause problems but I imagine it would. Can I verify the cycling of the cams and crank are correct?

I understand your concern, but you might be overthinking it. If you're turning the assembly with the belt on, they're not going to get way out of phase just by skipping a few teeth. With the belt on, turn things so they line up as close as possible, remove the belt and turn whichever gear is off either clockwise or counter clockwise (whichever distance is shorter) to align the marks.

In general, engine rotating assemblies are always going to be in the same position when the timing marks are aligned. If it were a non-interference engine, you could, for example, rotate one cam 3 turns, the other 5, the crank 2 and everything will still be in time once the belt goes on. For an interference engine, you want to try and keep them in phase to avoid hitting hard parts, but unless you're using a 6' cheater bar, it's unlikely you'll cause damage.

 

[nbishop]

In general, engine rotating assemblies are always going to be in the same position when the timing marks are aligned. If it were a non-interference engine, you could, for example, rotate one cam 3 turns, the other 5, the crank 2 and everything will still be in time once the belt goes on. For an interference engine, you want to try and keep them in phase to avoid hitting hard parts, but unless you're using a 6' cheater bar, it's unlikely you'll cause damage.

So my cheater bar wasn't 6', but I was using one that I had attached to the driver's side cam pulley. The spark plugs are still in it so I couldn't turn it by hand. I am guessing the belt slipped more than 6 teeth though. I guess I will get everything back in time and hope for the best.

I am going to get the t belt on and get it running again before starting on the spark plugs. If the engine is showing signs of illness I'll go further into it.