Suspension upgrade for FWC Hawk and gear question for a vehicle noob

I'm trying to figure out if I'll need to add a suspension upgrade prior to mounting a four wheel camper Hawk on my truck. I am really, really bad at math and I can't figure this out. I checked the label on the inside of my drivers side door and I've looked up what everything means, but I cannot seem to figure out either the weight of my truck or it's full carrying capacity. The owners manual is just too generalized and doesn't tell me anything specific about my make and model. My truck is a 2012 F150 XL super cab, 5.0 V8. It's front GAWR IS 3,750 lbs. the rear is 3,850 lbs. the GVWR IS 7,350.
The FWC base model Hawk is 895 lbs and the added upgrade options add an additional 300 lbs, plus myself 260 lbs, dog and gear weight, 20 gallon H2O tank, and 20 lbs of propane. A Warn VR 10,000 winch, rock sliders, Plus a extended hitch for carrying either an extra tire, jerry cans, bike or small trail bike, etc.
So do I need to add additional suspension like airbags, springs etc. and if so to what rating?

In the back of the manual it breaks it down by wheelbase, rear axel ratio, maximum GCWR, and max trailer weight. The only number I cannot figure out is the rear axel ratio, so both of the weights for the max GCWR are; 13,500 lbs and 15,100 lbs.
So is my base truck weight 7,350 lbs (GVWR) ? And, the weight it can carry one of the two GCWR's ?
If so, I guess I don't need to add some suspension??? Or should I and to what extent? Or do I also need to get much more stout tires like E rated ten ply?
Thanks, Lump
 
Last edited:

JHa6av8r

Adventurer
You want the payload of your truck and how much weight is on the front and rear axles. I would be surprised if your payload is over 2,000 lbs unless it has a payload package. Remember it's a 1/2 ton truck. Fill your truck with gas and you and put it on a scale. It should weigh something less than your GVWR. The difference between GVWR and the trucks weight us your payload. Almost all 1/2 tons will need suspension mods. From what you've listed, I can almost guarantee you're at or above GVWR and payload for your truck.
 

phydough

Observer
Found this for you. Page 12 covers slide in campers and page 29 has a how to find your axle ratio.
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2012/12_FLRVTT_gde.pdf

If you live near a truckstop or gravel company, swing by to use their truck scales with a full of gas and gear. That will give you a good gauge of how much camper you can go with.

GVWR is what the truck is rated for (legal and safe) on it's own four tires.
GCWR is the Gross Combined Weight Rating oh truck AND trailer weight.
 
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Advmoto18

Observer
I agree with phydough...

I live in Raleigh. I filled up with diesel, put the labs in the back seat, strapped wife into front passenger seat and went to the gravel pit to be weighed.

While the placard weight and subtracting your truck's configuration weights is a good first step, it doesn't trump actual weights.

In the aircraft/airline industry these weights are critical and same goes for your truck. While Ford doesn't call it such on the placard or in the manual, you have all the info to calculate your trucks weight and balance along with actual available payload. And payload includes your fuel load. Pilots start calculating with Max Zero Fuel Weight. That is the weight of the airplane (includes weight of crew but no fuel, passengers, cargo). Then we start loading the plane up based on known weights or the actual weight of the item loaded on the airplane. You can do pretty much the same thing for your truck. However, since we can't drive our trucks to the scale on an empty tank, I fill the tank up and simply start with a weight that includes humans, dogs and max fuel load.

Once you have the truck's scale weight, you can then start adding the Hawk weight (wet or dry) and the weight of accessories you plan on hauling. At the same subtract these items from you max payload. While not totally accurate since you have people and fuel included in your scale weight, you will have a good ball park number.

While I'm sure Ford build a safety margin into the placard weights, it will be the placard weights and Ford configuration list in conjunction with your actual load that will ultimately determine your legality. Especially if you are involved in an accident. I have not seen an auto insurance policy that will pay a claim if the owner has equipped/loaded the vehicle and exceeds manufacturer placarded weights. Read the exclusions and limitations section of your insurance policy.

I have a Hawk on order. After loading my truck up as described above, I went to the gravel pit to determine the weight of my Super Duty without the camper and camping accessories. Note, the weight on the receipt from the pit will likely NOT be an official, certified weight even though the scale is NC certified. This will be typical for most if not all non-DMV weigh stations in NC.

I recommend using the unofficial "wet" weight of the Hawk for your calculations. this will give you a better idea of your truck's capability.

Good luck!
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
You need to know how much weight is on each axle to determine if tires with a higher max weight rating are necessary.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
I thought F-150s as a class were '1/2 ton' cargo capacity. Fuel and full passengers in the cab don't typically come out of that weight. You're riding that limit with just the camper alone, so yes, you need to upgrade your suspension.
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
Short answer:

Stock 1/2 ton truck + FWC + gear = overloaded.

Stock 3/4 ton truck + FWC + gear = probably overloaded (the devil is in the details).

Stock 1 ton truck + FWC + gear = pushing it.



None of that means that you can't do it - lots of people do, and most of them never have a problem other than suffering from poor handling, poor fuel economy, & increased wear on the vehicle (particularly when the roads get rough). Remember, once you add "rough roads" into the equation, that extra weight really starts to affect how the truck handles.
 
Short answer:

Stock 1/2 ton truck + FWC + gear = overloaded.

Stock 3/4 ton truck + FWC + gear = probably overloaded (the devil is in the details).

Stock 1 ton truck + FWC + gear = pushing it.



None of that means that you can't do it - lots of people do, and most of them never have a problem other than suffering from poor handling, poor fuel economy, & increased wear on the vehicle (particularly when the roads get rough). Remember, once you add "rough roads" into the equation, that extra weight really starts to affect how the truck handles.

So does just adding airbags fix all of those problems or are there other things I should do?
Would the Firestone Ride Rites with an additional saddle/cradle be sufficient?
I am also looking at E rated tires too. Any recommendations for that or should I start another thread?
 

JHa6av8r

Adventurer
Short answer:

Stock 1/2 ton truck + FWC + gear = overloaded.

Stock 3/4 ton truck + FWC + gear = probably overloaded (the devil is in the details).

Stock 1 ton truck + FWC + gear = pushing it.
The first line is correct. However the 3/4 & 1 ton are well within GVWR or should be with an FWC camper. My example would be a Chevy 2500 HD and 3500 HD. In the crew cab configuration with a diesel the payload is 2,900 lbs for the 2500 and 4,200 lbs for the 3,500. I have the 3500 and the 4,200 lbs payload was verified by loading it up without the camper and putting it on a scale. My rig loaded with FWC Grandby and gear comes in at 9,500 lbs 2,000 lbs below GVWR. When you go to the larger hard side campers all bets are off. I chose the 1 ton because of not wanting to be anywhere near GVWR when off road.
 

duxndogs

Observer
Hmmm...some interesting points made!

I have a FWC Hawk on a stock 2012 Ford Super Duty F250 CC 4x4 with the 6.2L v8 gas motor. When the camper is loaded and all of us are in the truck (family of 4) I hardly notice the camper is on there!! Truck does pretty good - minus a few steep mountain passes I've been up. Driving down the highway I have to look in my mirrors or I'd forget the camper is on there. And we typically take way too much gear! My two boys and wife try to take everything in the house when we go for a 2-3 day trip! Lol..

Here's my question for you guys:
I'm seriously considering lifting my truck w/ a BDS 4 in radius arm kit with Fox 2.0 shocks all the way around and then changing my stock tires to 35 in Toyo mt's or the Nitto trail grapplers. I'll probably add a PMF traction bar/block system to the rear of the truck -vs the BDS block. Don't trust just the blocks for the rear! I'm just wanting more ground clearance for my boondocking adventures. I don't want that big jacked up look!!

How will these changes affect my gvwr?
 

duxndogs

Observer
By the way...didn't meant to hijack this thread!

Also wanted to add...I'm thinking about adding air bags to the rear. Guessing that would help even more...though my camper doesn't make my truck squat.

Thanks!
 

JHa6av8r

Adventurer
Hmmm...some interesting points made!

I have a FWC Hawk on a stock 2012 Ford Super Duty F250 CC 4x4 with the 6.2L v8 gas motor. When the camper is loaded and all of us are in the truck (family of 4) I hardly notice the camper is on there!! Truck does pretty good - minus a few steep mountain passes I've been up. Driving down the highway I have to look in my mirrors or I'd forget the camper is on there. And we typically take way too much gear! My two boys and wife try to take everything in the house when we go for a 2-3 day trip! Lol..

Here's my question for you guys:
I'm seriously considering lifting my truck w/ a BDS 4 in radius arm kit with Fox 2.0 shocks all the way around and then changing my stock tires to 35 in Toyo mt's or the Nitto trail grapplers. I'll probably add a PMF traction bar/block system to the rear of the truck -vs the BDS block. Don't trust just the blocks for the rear! I'm just wanting more ground clearance for my boondocking adventures. I don't want that big jacked up look!!

How will these changes affect my gvwr?
The GVWR doesn't change. It is what it is. If you beef up your suspension the front and rear axle ratings become the limiting factor. Having said that there's still the legal question of operating a vehicle over GVWR even with stronger suspension. This only becomes important in a accident with smart lawyers and insurance companies.
 

duxndogs

Observer
The GVWR doesn't change. It is what it is. If you beef up your suspension the front and rear axle ratings become the limiting factor. Having said that there's still the legal question of operating a vehicle over GVWR even with stronger suspension. This only becomes important in a accident with smart lawyers and insurance companies.

Oops...I actually meant payload. :victory:

How will the suspension changes I'm planning affect payload?
 

Martyn

Supporting Sponsor, Overland Certified OC0018
In a nut shell, a Hawk in a stock F150 is no problem. If the rear starts to sag because of all your aftermarket goodies then air bags will work for you. Airlift makes a great kit that will work for you. Mainline Overland is your local FWC dealer, give them a call to discuss your needs, these guys know their stuff.
 

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