Stumpalump
Expedition Leader
Chains off road can grab roots and rocks and break axels. Go easy.
Snow wheeling with tire chains?
- Thread starter eurosonic
- Start date
I cary a set of the V bars listed above for my tacoma. They are fantastic. I went with the v bar because it is damn near impossible to chain the front of the newer tacoma. See a few guys running cables and a few with off set wheels that seem to make them work. My truck is stock so that is not an option.
Heavy duty off road chains make a HUGE difference is where you are able to go. The v bars grip like crazy and the chain are so heavy duty something would have to hugely wrong for them to break.
I once had to drive a Tundra through 3+ feet of standing utah snow with drifts to the hoodline out in the high desert to get to a work site that was 20 miles off the closest paved road. Chain up the rear and made it. I wish that I had those v bars on those work truck I have been very please with them on my personal rig. If I ever bump into a situation that I can not get through with them then 1. It is most likely not a road. 2. nothing else other then a snow machine is getting through but say a locked front and back lifted beast on massive float tires. 3. I have no darn business being out anyways.
2.7 five speed 4x4 with AT's and v bars. It is a narley little beast.
I stay away from all of the quick link stuff, I just dont trust them. Seems like too many weak points in the chain. just my 2 cents.
Heavy duty off road chains make a HUGE difference is where you are able to go. The v bars grip like crazy and the chain are so heavy duty something would have to hugely wrong for them to break.
I once had to drive a Tundra through 3+ feet of standing utah snow with drifts to the hoodline out in the high desert to get to a work site that was 20 miles off the closest paved road. Chain up the rear and made it. I wish that I had those v bars on those work truck I have been very please with them on my personal rig. If I ever bump into a situation that I can not get through with them then 1. It is most likely not a road. 2. nothing else other then a snow machine is getting through but say a locked front and back lifted beast on massive float tires. 3. I have no darn business being out anyways.
2.7 five speed 4x4 with AT's and v bars. It is a narley little beast.
I stay away from all of the quick link stuff, I just dont trust them. Seems like too many weak points in the chain. just my 2 cents.
RubiconGeoff
Adventurer
One of the big problems with only chaining the front tires is that when you're on ice, your vehicle will be much more likely to swap ends when you use the brakes due to great traction in front and nearly zero traction in back. We see this all the time on front-wheel-drive vehicles here in the mountains when CalTrans puts up chain controls.
If you only chain the rear tires, you not only retain safe straight-line braking but you also have the chains on the stronger axles.
1911
Expedition Leader
The OP was specifically asking about off-road wheeling in deep snow, not driving on roads or ice.
Inyo_man
Don't piss down my back and tell me it's raining.
I carry chains for all four wheels...but then again we are doing winter crossings of Hunter Mt., traveling through the Inyos, and bombing around the Sierras.
If South and North Pass are the extent of your snow wheeling...then two wheels chained up will most likely be fine.
Chain up the rear for steep descents, and the fronts for steep hill climbs.
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
Street use, small wimpy diamond pattern chains are preferred. Off road, I want super heavy duty square link ladder chains or V bar ladder chains. Diamond pattern chains break easier, and the side bite isn't really noticeably worse in my area off roads. Tirechans.com Measure your tires and call them, don't use the generic sizing info if you're running mudterrains.
I chain all 4 because it's easy, like the above poster mentioned with the 4x4 blocks.
-stop with the wheel dead straight, set 4x4 blocks in front of each tire.
-back up 4 feet
-lay chains down
-drive onto blocks, it helps if your blocks are ramped. I also grind notches into the bottom of the blocks so they grip the earth better.
-chain up and go
Love chains in the mud. Often, they offer more traction than a locker.
I chain all 4 because it's easy, like the above poster mentioned with the 4x4 blocks.
-stop with the wheel dead straight, set 4x4 blocks in front of each tire.
-back up 4 feet
-lay chains down
-drive onto blocks, it helps if your blocks are ramped. I also grind notches into the bottom of the blocks so they grip the earth better.
-chain up and go
Love chains in the mud. Often, they offer more traction than a locker.
Box Rocket
Well-known member
The twist link- vbar chains are the best for sure off road and in the deep stuff. I was not able to source the vbar ones when I needed them last year so I have a set of twist links. Amazed at how well they work. They will fit the 35's on my new FZJ80 too so I can't wait to try them out this winter. The only thing better than chains on a fully locked vehicle is a vehicle with tracks. 
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Smithy
Observer
Try Clothier for custom off road tire chains, he builds them for your specific tire, up to 52". http://www.clothierproducts.com/default_site.htm
I have V-Bars on the Scout, and surplus HMMWV chains on the Suburban. All 4 wheels chained on both trucks, a must have for deep snow.
I have V-Bars on the Scout, and surplus HMMWV chains on the Suburban. All 4 wheels chained on both trucks, a must have for deep snow.
maverick4x4
New member
I chain up weekly on the X in the winter, plus have chains on the blower blazer. I throw them over the top, no wood block necessary. I vary between front, rear, and all 4 on the X. Usually the rear or all 4. Going uphill, weight is on rear. Also, I understand about the rear coming around, but I've had the front slide off the road at 2mph. Granted, that was icy vs deep snow. All 4 would have been better that time.
Can't seem to post pics from my phone.
Can't seem to post pics from my phone.