Help requested with Alaskan restoration/build

[ripperj]

I have an '84 Alaskan 8' caboverthat I have spent way to much time and money on, good thing I enjoy working in the shop. I plan on doing a build thread at some point. I gutted the interior of the lower section and insulated it with 3/4" foam. I cut the cabover section off and built a new one 2' longer. This will allow north/ south sleeping.
The longer cabover required a new roof , which was more of a pain in the rear than I expected( getting the one pc 14'x9' roof from California to Ct and installed)
I am at the point where I need to get the roof section water tight. I am looking for ideas on sealing the roof to front and rear wall seams. The original design had aluminum drip edge with butyl tape over the seam. The original gutter is trashed, and the only source I can find is not sure that it will bend tight enough( see pics)
I am considering cutting the curved part out of 1/16" aluminum plate and using flat stock for the straight sections with buytl tape and 3m 4000.
I am open to suggestions
Thanks!

 

[ripperj]

I should mention that the original method of buytl tape under the gutter worked fine for 30yrs, with no leaks. Most of the tape was still pliable

 

[fluffyprinceton]

cutting the curved part out of 1/16" aluminum plate and using flat stock for the straight sections with buytl tape and 3m 4000.

That would work but I'd go either butyl tape or 3m4000. On mine I used just Sikaflex 291 (equivalent to 3m 4000). 4000 & 291 will make it much harder to remove the molding down the road, and to get a neat job you have to mask the joint - as you want squeeze out & after tooling the joint without tape over the molding & camper body you'd have a mess...it just doesn't clean up with solvent that well. As you point out butyl tape works and is faster/easier to apply. Still I like the sika as it seals the screws & holes better & I've used it for years & years on boats.

Good idea on just cutting the alu to make the curve if the stock you can find can't take the bend.

Very interested in how you structurally supported the cab over extension - both the bed & the roof. Moe

 

[ripperj]

The roof extension is supported by the double 3/4" ply curved forward part of the sides. The sides of the cabover are simple beams(1/4" ply with 3/4" pine on the top) that rest on the curved pcs. The 2x2 stringer extention joints were staggered and doubles of 1/2" ply on both sides.
I have not done the lower section extension yet.