My D2 Project

PhD_Polymath

Observer
I had wanted a Discovery Series 2 ever since I saw one as a kid when they were new. They were a rare sight in my neck of the woods, so that probably added to the novelty. Fast forward to when I am old enough to drive, any D2 was way out of my price range. A few more years and they are cheap. I had spent lots of hours learning about the pros and cons for different years and things to look out for. Recently, I found myself in a position where I can afford my dream truck and not have to rely on it if necessary. I have owned my Disco for about 8 months now and have learned that they do require attention. Being a decent DIY mechanic and having a good sense of humor has helped me to enjoy the endearing attributes of this vehicle. I would love to improve many things about this truck and intend to slowly tackle that list. At the moment, I mostly plan to give it a one over and make sure all systems are in tiptop shape. So far, I have kept the oil fresh with Rotella 15w-40. I bought a new front driveshaft from Lucky8. I went with the stock style with all serviceable u-joints, which get greased at each oil change. I found a sticky for major service (maybe on another site?) and plan to tackle that ASAP. I also have to chase down why the blower motor stopped working. Next in line is probably getting the linkage for the CDL (the Disco is a 2000, thus having the proper transfer case) and a mild lift/tires. I still have the SLS, and replaced the airbags recently after driving home with the rear bottomed out on a road trip. From there, not sure. That should keep me busy for awhile. As it is stock, I haven't taken the Rover to any events. However, I know that Rover owners form somewhat of a family. I hope to meet other owners soon and let my Disco participate. I don't think the previous owners did, so it's about 14 years overdue. I will post pics soon.
 

Rocky Crag

Observer
Congrats on joining the Rover afflicted ,,,err family. Look up your nearest club and I hope you enjoy the times in your D2 as much as I've enjoyed mine.
 

PhD_Polymath

Observer
Thanks for the comments.

Rocky Crag - I certainly plan to meet with groups this year. It looks like we have plenty opportunities here in New England.

BirchHill - You probably hit the nail right on the head. The symptoms and diagnostics point right at the passenger compartment fuse block. Thanks!

Nelson Santiago - This is my first 4 wheel drive vehicle and I have almost no off road experience. However, I hope to change that and it looks like the D2 is a great vehicle in any hands. Thanks for the encouragement!


Rover with Nicks Jeep.jpg
Here is a photo of the Disco while out playing around on some trails. It has/had snow tires, and conservative ones at that. However, it has impressed me with its capabilities.

Rover Clean.jpg
And here is a photo of the the Rover all clean.
 

PhD_Polymath

Observer
The plan for the D2 Project

After the last few days, I have been planning out the direction I want this project to follow. There are some big projects that are going to demand attention from the start, the first of which is stopping a coolant leak that I caught shortly after starting this thread.

When purchased, the truck's engine block was clean. I knew it must have been pressure washed, and was certain there were some gremlins hiding. As we all know, buying a Rover is an emotional decision and I had the perfect excuse to get my dream truck because my prior vehicle was not working in New England winters. I was paranoid about failures and checked coolant, oil, and other fluid levels at least every week (still do). My significant other was making fun of me because I would also turn the radio all the way down frequently to listen for failures. Nothing went wrong, but I started to notice a copper glimmer in the coolant reservoir. I called the dealer who sold the truck (who assured me the head gaskets were replaced at their shop about 10,000 miles prior) and mentioned the evidence of stop leak. He brushed it off and stated that when they do head gaskets, they throw a bottle of stop leak in as a precautionary measure. Well, I knew this was bad news and instantly knew that they would not touch my truck in the future. Fast forward a few months and I notice the coolant reservoir is a tad low. I top it off and start investigating. I notice the area below cylinder 4 has quite a bit of grime on it, but the head is still very clean. I make note of this and continue keeping an eye on all fluids. You can probably see where I am going with this...

I also keep an eye on the engine temperature with an OBD2 tool that sends live data to my phone, as I know the engine temperature gauge will only let you know when your engine just cooked beyond repair. I never saw the temperature go out of range, this is still the case. But, the coolant has started leaking at a measurable rate and I have had to top it off twice since starting this thread. It never got low enough to alarm me, but I figure it is best to park it and avoid any catastrophic failures. Upon close inspection, I can see where air is coming out between the head and block under cylinder 4. I thought new head gaskets would be the fix, but here comes the difficult part. Their are no coolant passages from block to head around the inboard cylinders. After researching this topic, I found some articles on the block perforating between the coolant jacket and the cylinder liner. The coolant then pushes out above the liner and out the side of the block when the fire ring blows out. It looks like the only fix for this problem is top hat liners, which seal directly against the head gasket and don't allow coolant to seep out. The liner is sealed top and bottom (top against head gasket, bottom against an o-ring seal).

So here is my immediate plan. I want to do a stock build on the engine with top hat liners and get the heads milled flat if needed. I will have to check on if the pistons can be reused, as I know the piston skirts can wear on these engines. I want to make the engine better than new, as I want to keep this truck for life. Though it is painful to think of the cost for this service, I know after properly correcting the errors made during manufacturing will make this engine a robust, and dare I say reliable, engine.

After straightening out the engine, I plan to put a lift on it. I am thinking 2 or 3 inches, not sure yet. I will add 16 inch rims and more off road capable tires at the same time. Also going in around that time will be a CDL linkage.

Later yet, I want to get the ladder for the rear door and a full length rack (I love the Safety Designs one, but will have to see what I can find). I also plan to add some drawer system to the cargo area. I may get out a welder and other tools and fab up a system of my own. While in fabrication mode, I will probably also make some underbody armor. I would like to fab my own bumpers and sliders, but may end up ordering them. It seems that cost of ones available on the market are comparable to what I would pay for materials and extra tooling to do my own. Another strong reason to go the commercial route with the front bumper at least is that ones from ARB (maybe others too) are airbag compliant. This rig has to serve as my daily driver, so I don't want to deal with legal troubles should I get in an accident.

I am sure there will be many more modifications in preparing this rig for my uses, but I hope to share the build with the overland community along the way. Here is to many adventures. :friday:
 

amschnellsten

New member
Great looking Disco. I have a 2000 D2 now and love it! If you are going through all of the trouble of top hatting, you might as well plop the 4.6 in.
 

PhD_Polymath

Observer
Thanks. I am considering a 4.6 swap, but have to keep costs as low as possible.

I have seen quotes by a local shop for a complete rebuild in the $11-14000 range for the Rover V8s. A short block alone comes in at around $5000-6500.

Though I don't doubt that the work is great, I simply cannot afford that much work. The purchase price of my Disco was $6500 (I know this is way overpriced for D2s, but I fell for the story about new head gaskets and how well maintained the rig was). I am still paying on the vehicle and I love it, so I am going to treat it right.

I hope I can find a machine shop with reasonable rates that can take out the liners, fix the crack(s), prep for new liners, and install the top hats, deck the block, etc. for somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500. I found a shop on the west coast that will swap blocks, giving the customer a top-hatted block for that price. I may ring them up if I can't find someone local who can match that price give or take the costs of me shipping from the west coast and my core the other way. I just want to do this once and do it right.

I was hoping to get the Rover out to some events this year, but it looks like I may have to focus on doing a build over this year and maybe the next to prepare it for use in overland settings. Maybe I will tag along with someone else if I can manage to make friends with others who enjoy this hobby.

Cheers!
 

99Discovery

Adventurer
For $5000, I would seriously look at purchasing a second disco, this time with records, and using your current one as a parts car. Maybe get an earlier disco 2 that has that t-case with CDL and do an Ashcroft/d1 shifter swap, or an '04 that has a factory CDL.

I overpaid for mine, $5500 and 98k miles, but it was a '99 (cdl) and had full records including gasket and decking done at GBR out of SLC (pretty reputable). Even then, I had to get a 180 degree T-stat (DO THIS TO YOURS) because it was clogged and was the culprit to the overheating. Then I purchased an Ultraguage (DO THIS TOO) and keep an eye on temps to make sure you never get near over-heating again. I run around 188-194 all the time, even in the deserts of Utah in 4-lo.

Then you can buy yourself time. As your research is showing, the Rover V8s are a hunk of junk, which is too bad, because the aluminum block is a good idea AND the torque response is awesome for off-roading, it is just not reliable.

When my block slips a liner (and it will probably be inevitable) I'm going to bite the bullet and just go late model LR3 or maybe an LR4/RRS, hopefully they will be affordable by then. The disco looks and plays the part, but it can be a money pit, and sometimes it might be time to pull the plug.

I wouldn't pay $14k for a top-hat lined Disco 2, not when you can get a decent LR3 for that kind of money.
 

PhD_Polymath

Observer
Once I get the heads off and take a closer look, I will check if the liner is indeed letting coolant leak out. I am hoping the fire ring went and the coolant loss is unrelated, but I have to do a thorough check. If the block is trashed, I will simply swap out the engine for a 4.6 from a p38. I will pull the heads and do a leak down check on the block, clean up the mating surfaces, use studs on the heads and hope for a few years out of the setup. This kind of build will probably come in at around $2000 from the prices I have seen. In the meantime, I can have fun with the truck and plan for the worst while hoping for the best.

Mine is a 2000 and has the CDL transfer case. I just have to get a linkage from a D1 for the swap. The Ashcroft kit is a bit on the pricey side for my budget.

I am definitely putting a 180 degree thermostat and probably a new radiator in the truck, as the dealer who serviced mine put a bottle of stop-leak in as "preventative maintenance" (his words, not mine...).

The temperatures have been constantly monitored on the truck with an OBD2 dongle that bluetooths with my Android phone. It is just like a Scangauge, essentially. I have always seen temps around 208-210 once warmed up. It has never overheated in my care, even lately when I noticed the coolant level getting low. I am extremely vigilant about coolant temps with the D2, and would park it on a freeway before allowing a meltdown. Excellent point, though. I don't think many people understand just how temperamental a Rover V8 of this vintage is when it comes to temperatures.

I am in no position to get another vehicle or to do a full top-hat liner build with my career and budget at the moment. If it came down to it, I would just ride one of my bicycles to and from work everyday (used to do it even when I lived 25 miles from work, 50 miles a day was great for my fitness). I am in love with the D2 and really have no plans to let it go to waste, so however long it takes, I will get it sorted out.

Thanks for the reply, I may end up going for an LR3 in a few years when my budget and their cost meet a bit better.
 

99Discovery

Adventurer
Another word of advice: SAVE FOR THE ASHCROFT.

I did the D1 shifter install in fact, I just finished over the weekend. Sure you save money up front, but adjusting the linkages and setting everything up takes time and there is very little working space available. Add to the fact that you have to ENSURE that you get all the parts yourself (so good luck via Ebay). I did the Ebay route and almost got everything, except the gaiter was torn and I was missing another seal.

Looking at Rovers North, the cost of those missing parts and a new gaiter would have put me MORE than the Ashcroft unit. Luckily, I'm in Utah so seeing enough water to flood through the T-case is rare -if at all-. So I sealed it up with a torn gaiter as best I could and called it a day.

The CDL does work awesome, as expected. I only tested it in the snow on my land (no rock crawling yet), and I could do figure 8s all day with the CDL engaged and the TC engaging once. Turning off the CDL, and my vehicle was instantly buzzing from the TC the entire time.

If I had to do it again, I would save the couple of hundred for the Ashcroft. Not only is it easier to install (I would have saved hours), but cable linkages are more reliable, shift smoother, and the mounting of the Ashcroft is to the body not the TC like the D1. This translates to less vibration and a quieter cabin. (my cabin noticeably noiser because of the foam you have to cut to fit the D1 shifter.

Save your money then buy the Ashcroft. I already wished I had.

Oh, and again, I'll plus 1 everyone else: Get rid of that hi-low solenoid! (I did the dremmel route to use the old solenoid as a seal). That was the biggest pain to the job, and I had a heated garage! I can't image doing that on the trail. I'm so glad it's gone!
 

trialrun

Observer
contact Will Tillery on discoweb.org - he has blocks for $150,

Will Tillery
540-462-7353
willtillery@roverguy.com

I would just rebuild or send it off to QandE or any other reputible machine shop to have it sleeved which will avoid the issue going forward, especially if you plan on keeping the truck for a long time. Another option is CannibalV8 - i have one in the green truck and it's awesome!
 

ZG

Busy Fly Fishing
The ashcroft CDL unit is so much nicer and more painless than the D1 setup...highly recommend it
 

PhD_Polymath

Observer
99Discovery and RNPhoto- Thanks for the tips on the Ashcroft setup guys. I didn't realize there was such a difference between the D1 DIY route and the Ashcroft aftermarket route. I guess when I get the more important engine stuff straightened out, I will put money on that kit.

trialrun- Thanks also for pointing out Will Tillery for used parts. Once the heads are off and the damage assessed, I will keep him in mind if I need a block. I have a question about QandE. They were the ones I found to sleeve a block for $1500. Do you or anyone you know have experience with them? That seems like a great price for the service and I was tempted by them. I do intend to keep the truck, as I like it and want to stick with one vehicle for once. I can't really afford to jump ship and see a little more money now on a vehicle I am familiar with paying off in the long run.

Thanks again!
 

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