Under-topper Hi-Lift Mounts.

[Bravo1782]

Hello!

I've got a 2011 F-150 XLT Supercrew with the short bed and I'm trying to come up with a way to secure my hi-lift. I've got a topper on the truck, and as such, there are clamps in the way of using the traditional hi-lift truck bed lock loc-rac mounts. Currently, I'm using the base piece from that kit attached near my tail-light and the other side secured with an adjustable shackle height lock like this one secured to a tie-down point. (I'll post pictures when I get home.)

It works ok, but I'd really like to free up those tie-down points for an upcoming drawer project. Has anyone fabricated anything that would work to secure a 60" Hi-Lift X-Treme in a short F-150 bed? Any suggestions?

 

[golf_n_bees]

I took a different approach but it may be something you could find useful. I have the 2011 long bed F250 with an ARE topper. I bought one of those contractor boxes and mounted it in the front of the bed. I use it for all the recovery gear and emergency stuff including a high lift jack. It doubles as a table when I move the cot in at night. This would not work for you if you sleep in the back but if not it might be an idea. The only tough part is dragging stuff out of the bed but I don't need that gear that often.

 

[super04duty]

Mine is also a long bed F350, but I just bit the bullet, and drilled some holes in the bed of the truck to mount mine. It works well. And when we sleep in the back, it surprisingly doesnt get in the way.


*note, it looks like my jack is sitting at an angle, but it is level. Its the bed rail that is bent. 1000lbs bales of hay don't like sheet metal.

 

[Bravo1782]

Dual purpose adventure truck\work truck. I like it!

I actually have that same mount on my jeep's rear bumper. I was fearful that the weight of the hi lift would warp\deform the sheet metal of the bed. Do you have them "backed" with anything at all, or just self tappers into the sheet metal?

 

[super04duty]

I installed the mounts with the nuts and bolts and washers that came with the kit. So there are washers and nylock nuts on the other side. Was tight getting my hands/wrench in there, definitely a 2 person job. But it was worth it. And with the rhino liner on the bed, it doesn't flex or move around at all. I also put some silicone on the bolts where they go through the bed, to seal up the holes and prevent rust or rattles.

 

[IdaSHO]

9/16 bolts fit snug through the frame of a highlift.

Also happen to be one of the more standard size for wheel lug studs.


I bolted mine onto the back of my flatbed with a couple of 9/16 bolts, spacers and nuts, and used nothing more than lug nuts to bolt it on.
I later swapped them out for locking lug nuts.

Secure, and you (should) always have the tool on board to remove the jack when needed.

 

[Bravo1782]

I've got the bumper-mounted strategy going on with my jeep. I like it, TBH. Got a factory bumper on my Truck ATM, and no plan to replace it in the foreseeable future. :-\

 

[stingray1300]

Here's mine in my '13 S-Crew 5.5' bed. I fabricated a bracket that fits under the bed rail lip and lands on the small ledge above the wheel well. And I can lock it if I take the cap off. All hardware is stainless steel.:
.

 

[verdesardog]

Here's my solution. I keep the topper unlocked 99% of the time and spend hours away from my truck in the outback which is why I have the jack locked to the bedside, The mounting hardware can only be accessed when the jack is removed:

 

[ToyotaRoamer86]

like these ideas, anybody have a good write up?