My M1101 and M1102 Buying Experience and Build Thread

[BenjaminAsher]

I finally have a build to share! In fact, it is a classic story of the "Cart(s) before the Horse", because I am getting a 5th Gen 4Runner in the next couple months so I can pull it!
I will do my best to document the entire process, starting with the buying experience from GovPlanet, and some tips/tricks I learned. I promise it is worth the read!

I just purchased 2x Tan 2010 Schutt Trailers from GovPlanet this morning! One is a MINT condition M1101 trailer with Perfect Paint and Brand New tires, but no soft top. The other is a Near mint M1102 trailer with like new tires, and includes a brand new soft top and Bow kit. I plan on keeping the extra wheels and soft top from the M1102, and adding it to the mint condition M1101 that I'm keeping. I am also going to play around with some ideas on the extra trailer for practice, and to see if I like them, before I alter the Perfect trailer. When I am all done, I will sell the extra trailer and just keep one perfect trailer, complete with soft top and an extra set of tires/wheels.

M1101 Schutt 2010
http://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/539839
M1102 Schutt 2010
http://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/539825

So I only needed one trailer in pristine condition and a perfect paint job. My requirement for the second trailer was that it have New/Like New tires. As long as one trailer had a tailgate in perfect condition, I could put it on my "keeper" trailer.

What I was looking for in condition:

PAINT: It is very rare to find a M1101/M1102 that never had Unit/Name markings stenciled on the back of the tailgate at the bottom. It is common to have the Driver & Co-Driver's Names stenciled on the trailer associated with the vehicle it was issued to, which aids in communication during convoys. I don't mind unit markings, but I didn't want some other guy's name stenciled on my trailer. More importantly, when most trailers are auctioned, including all those sold in Texas, the Name/Unit stencils are painted over with spray paint. The spray paint they use never matches the original Tan CARC paint, and is often black or red rattle can paint. Not to mention they often overspray onto the trailer bellow the tailgate.

TIRES: I wanted both trailers to have New/Like New Tires, so I would have a spare set. Even unused tires have likely been in the sun for 4+ years, so having a spare set is nice, especially mounted on extra wheels. These are the same Goodyear tires used on the HMMWV, and cost about $500 new, and even like new they sell online for $150-$175 each. All the more reason to buy an extra trailer. I'll replace with some Junkyard Wheels/Tires when I'm ready to sell the extra trailer.

SOFT TOP: I need at least one soft top for the trailer I'm keeping when this is all said and done. The soft tops are rare, especially in good or excellent condition. None of the M1101/M1102 trailers in Texas, selling at Ft Hood have the soft tops installed in the Gov Planet Listings, but if they are included, they are shown folded in the bed of the trailer. That means the first photo to show if the soft top is included is often 20-25 photos from the beginning. It doesn't seam to effect the price at auction, when they aren't installed and set up in the first photo. I see trailers with Like New soft tops sell for less than other trailers without soft tops, so there are some great deals to be had. I saw one trailer with a dirty soft top, which included a brand new soft top to replace it, and both were folded in the bed of the trailer. It went pretty cheap, so someone lucked out, and had an extra soft top to sell. I was more interested in new tires, and a perfect paint job, and didn't want to get into buying and selling trailers.

YEAR MODEL: I was hoping to find a 2010, but I didn't think I would find one. The newest trailers I've seen go up for auction are 2010, which happens to be the year they supposedly added LED lights. I'll confirm that when I pick them up. A 2010 wasn't a must, as my other requirements were more important. After all, I can always add 12v-24v taillights afterward. A newer model year seams to be the main factor that drives up the price, more so than a soft top folded in the bed, which many don't even seam to notice. People who don't know anything about these trailers still know that newer is newer, so they lock on to the manufacture date. However, it's true, newer generally means better tires, less wear/use, etc.

I'll update the thread with final costs, pick up experience, and paperwork, as well as other tips/tricks as I can.

 

[cyclic]

Welcome to the 1102 club.

I absolutely LOVE mine. I do have several thing still to do, but it's functional right now.

Swapped to a regular 2 inch hitch mounted under the main spar, cut the military end off and wired on a regular 7 way. Replaced the tail light bulbs with 12v and the others with LED's. Wired the black-out lights to reverse and replace the bulbs with 12v, also removing the lense block/cover. Swapped those HUGE and heavy rims/tires with a set of 265/70r16 mounted on dodge steel rims.

I'm going to add aircraft track to the top rails, some ladder racks, swap brakes to electric with parking brake, mount spare under rear of bed, plan to use a queen size futon for sleeping (removable).

 

[edlaffoon]

Cool Ben, can't wait to see photos.

Do you have any desire for a hard top one?

I'm mostly curious to see how they pull and how it would impact mileage on my truck. I'll have to give yours a trial run when you get them.

 

[BenjaminAsher]

Welcome to the 1102 club.

My end goal is to keep the nicest trailer, the M1101, but we can be in the same M1101/M1102 club! I have read your thread before, nice trailer.

Cool Ben, can't wait to see photos.

Do you have any desire for a hard top one?

I'm mostly curious to see how they pull and how it would impact mileage on my truck. I'll have to give yours a trial run when you get them.

Yes, I want a Hard Top also. I plan on later finding a trailer at auction with aM1101/M1102 AMTECH Helmet Hard Top, but they go for close to $3k, even at auction, mounted on a less than pretty Trailer.

I am considering the possibility of finding a now discontinued AMTECH CBC. It is made for the M105A3. but I may have one professionally retrofitted for the the M1101. The M1101 is about 10"-12" wider than the CBC Cover, but I could add a 5"-6" aluminum ledge down the top sides of the trailer, and mount RotoPax to the CBC Top without them sticking past the already wide M1101. The CBC is not as tall, more aerodynamic, and has nicer swinging rear doors, folding steps, and a textured roof for standing on top. Being shorter, I could have a tubular roof rack added with ought being 12' tall like the Helmet Hard Top version. Plus, it would be different for sure!

 

[BenjaminAsher]

I'm paid in full, and will likely pick up at least one trailer on Friday. I'll bring home the nicest trailer, and the soft top from the other trailer so I can install it. The total cost was a bit more than expected, but not bad. There were a few more expenses than they told me about over the phone, but not bad. I paid with a Credit Card, which I was surprised they would allow, and no additional fee for Plastic, which was nice. I knew there was going to be sales tax, which I didn't initially expect, but here is the reasoning. Usually, you don't pay tax on a trailer or vehicle until you go get plates for it. These are Military items that have never been titled, so they are not yet "technically" classified as a Trailer/Vehicle, but as "Goods", which are taxable. There was the 10% GovPlanet fee, but there was also a 2% Diesel Fee. All and all, my $775 trailer and $1,225 trailer actually cost me $934.37 and $1,540.74 out the door.

You will want to request the SF97 (SF-97) Form at the time you pay for your auction, but know that it costs $50 per trailer. They will mail the form, so confirm address, and keep an eye out for it. Make sure you get the form, as it really helps at the DMV, without risking the problems you may face if you try and save the $50 without it.

I have a TX Tax Number, so I could have actually saved the 8.25% on the second trailer, because I am planning on selling it after I pull the wheels for spares, and take the Brand New soft top for the nicer trailer I'm keeping. But... I decided to just pay the tax on both, so I can Title them both, and I will just include plates and it will already be titled when I'm eventually ready to sell the extra one. I'm sure I'll get that back when I sell it because lots of people are worried about not being able to get them titled. At least I don't have to give the buyer the original Bill of Sale from GovPlanet which says where I got it, and for how much.

FYI: You have 3 days to pay in full and I think 8-10 business days to pick up your items after the auction.

 

[cyclic]

If you only register it for a 4k gross, you don't need to title it. One of those nice subtleties of Texas law.


And here's a little teaser of just how big these trailers are with those 37 inch tires.
My boy is 6 ft tall, and he's quite confused on how tall that trailer was......................

 

[BenjaminAsher]

If you only register it for a 4k gross, you don't need to title it. One of those nice subtleties of Texas law.

Interesting about the Gross weight limit, but you don't get to pick it's gross weight. They base it on the gross weight limit on the data tag. I would not want to claim it under 4k Gross and ever have that questioned. Fortunately, the M1101 I'm keeping says 3,400 lb Gross, while the M1102 I'll sell later says 4,200 lb Gross, even though there are the exact same trailer. Just different data tags rated for the max weight the tow vehicle can pull.

And here's a little teaser of just how big these trailers are with those 37 inch tires.
My boy is 6 ft tall, and he's quite confused on how tall that trailer was......................

I was surprised how tall they are. I was driving past a National Guard Armory, and did a quick U-Turn a few weeks ago to show my wife what they looked like. Something like 12" tall with soft top installed.

 

[TwinStick]

Yes, they are the exact same trailer, but i think the difference is in the "torsion rubber" that is inserted inside the axle. There are 4 pieces for each wheel on each side. They either use 2-instead of 4 for the lighter weight rating, or they use different durometer and/or compound of the rubber/like material.
http://www.schuttindustries.com/Mil...le-Component-Systems/Rubber-Torsion-Axle.aspx


cyclic---what are you doing for brakes on your trailer ? Have the surge brakes been removed ? Please take lots-o-pics when doing the elec brake conversion & where your parts come from. Thanks in advance.

 

[BenjaminAsher]

No, it's the same trailer with the same axle on both the M1101 and M1102 trailers.

The following is from Olive-drab.com
The Light Tactical Trailer for general cargo is designated by two model numbers, the M1101 and M1102, depending on its loading by weight. That is, there is no physical difference between the M1101 and the M1102 models, other than the dataplate. The two model numbers are used to regulate the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW), based solely on the vehicle towing the trailer.

For example, when the GVW does not exceed 3,400 pounds (1542 kg) the M1101 cargo trailer can be towed by a HMMWV M998/M1038 series prime mover. Both the M1101 and the M1102 trailer models can be towed by a HMMWV M1097/M1114 series in accordance with the identification plate. Due to the numerous model differences, for military use operators must refer to TM 9-2330-392-14&P to determine towing authorization for the M1101 and M1102 for the specific set of circumstances.

 

[BenjaminAsher]

By the way, here are the two trailers I purchased. They are in excellent shape.

http://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/539839
http://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/item/539825

If I outbid anyone from this forum, sorry... Someone was bidding pretty hard for the M1102 I got, but it was the only really nice 2010 with a like new Soft Top.

 

[cyclic]

TwinStick- I removed the surge brake and pintle, to convert to a standard hitch. The brake backing plates are still in place to enable me to use the parking brakes (which I love). The stock brakes are 12x2 hydraulic with parking brake, five bolt mount typically 7,000lb Dexter axle but 6000lb is also the same. All you need mechanically are 6/7k lb 12x2 electric with parking brake (in left and right) for a Dexter 5 bolt mount. Other than the wiring (easy) your done.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-112.html is one example. You can also change lug pattern by changing the hub/drum assembly, just remember it 12x2 brakes, and you would have to verify bearing sizes.

Right now I'm not running any trailer brakes, I'm only hauling light loads, and Texas doesn't require brakes for this weight trailer. The MOST important things for my trailer was standard hitch and lower height. All accomplished with the tire swap and lower front tongue height. It still has a huge ground clearance, and tows nicely. It has more bottom height than the two vehicles I tow it with. I did pick up a couple of aluminum step stools to get in and out of the trailer, http://www.harborfreight.com/step-stool-working-platform-66911.html and they work perfectly and store nicely.

 

[BenjaminAsher]

Title and Registration Info

If you only register it for a 4k gross, you don't need to title it. One of those nice subtleties of Texas law.

I talked to the Tax Office today to answer all my questions. You have to register it either way. But cyclic is exactly right, Texas doesn't require a trailer to be Titled unless you intend your gross weight to ever exceed 4,000 lbs. The M1101 data plate says 3,400 Gross, so no problems. Even though the M1102 data plate says 4,200 lbs Gross, you don't have to Title a M1102 trailer either, unless you actually intend to exceed the 4,000 Gross weight limit. Additionally, they may ask if you ever intend to exceed a 4,500 lb gross weight. If you say yes, you will be required to have an annual inspection. That said, don't take on the hassle or responsibility unless you actually need to.

While not required (In Texas), a Title only costs an additional $28, so it is a VERY GOOD idea to go ahead and get a Title. If you ever sell it to someone who lives outside of Texas, or if the buyer ever intends to later move outside of Texas (for some crazy reason), they would need it Titled. It can only be easily Titled using the original SF-97 Form, so if you loose or misplace it and later want it Titled, it is a PITA. The Title will use the Shipping Weight (Curb Weight), listed on the SF-97 form, which may be different from the actual Data Plate of the trailer. Shouldn't matter, as the Gross weight is the important number, not the Curb weight, just make sure the Shipping Weight (Curb Weight) on the SF-97 form is not over 4,500 lbs by mistake.

I also talked to the local PD, and they said it "should" always have a plate or a permit when on the road. However, he said that "IF" I was pulled over, I would probably have no problem if I explained I just purchased it and was only bringing it home. That's a good reason to keep the Auction documentation handy, to show you just purchased it, and were going to Register it and add Plates when you get it home. You could actually Register it before you go to pick it up, as long as you: (A) had a photo of the Data Plate, or (B): the info from the Trailer's Data Plate. To register it, you need the Make, Year of Manufacture, Serial #, and Gross Weight. You can not Title it until you have the SF-97 Form "In Hand".

If you don't have all the info to get it registered before you pick it up, and don't want to risk being pulled over, you can get a Permit. It Texas, a Permit only Costs $5 per trailer. A Permit is a temporary, One-Way Pass, which allows you to bring home an item before you have it Titled and/or Registered. If you have a long way to go, or want to avoid being pulled over for any reason, this is the way to go.

 

[BenjaminAsher]

TwinStick- I removed the surge brake and pintle, to convert to a standard hitch. The brake backing plates are still in place to enable me to use the parking brakes (which I love). The stock brakes are 12x2 hydraulic with parking brake, five bolt mount typically 7,000lb Dexter axle but 6000lb is also the same. All you need mechanically are 6/7k lb 12x2 electric with parking brake (in left and right) for a Dexter 5 bolt mount. Other than the wiring (easy) your done.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-112.html is one example. You can also change lug pattern by changing the hub/drum assembly, just remember it 12x2 brakes, and you would have to verify bearing sizes.

Right now I'm not running any trailer brakes, I'm only hauling light loads, and Texas doesn't require brakes for this weight trailer. The MOST important things for my trailer was standard hitch and lower height. All accomplished with the tire swap and lower front tongue height. It still has a huge ground clearance, and tows nicely. It has more bottom height than the two vehicles I tow it with. I did pick up a couple of aluminum step stools to get in and out of the trailer, http://www.harborfreight.com/step-stool-working-platform-66911.html and they work perfectly and store nicely.

At first, I have no need to switch the brakes, but I'm very interested in the Electric Brakes you linked at a later time. I don't want to give up the Military Torsion Axle, as it is a heavy duty monster, and I don't mind running the HMMWV Wheels/Tires. That's why I got an extra trailer, so I could keep the like new Wheels/Tires as spares. I didn't realize I could keep the Parking brakes if I changed to electric brakes. I'm not planning on healing a lot of weight, but I plan on taking advantage of the extra room, so I don't think I really need brakes at all. I will see how the surge brakes work, and go from there depending on my needs. If I go the route of electric brakes later, I would love to get more details from you on what I need and how to install. I am a photographer by trade, so I will promise to take great photos as a walk through, when/if I do a brake upgrade. Thanks for all the great info,

 

[RagnarD]

I actually like the surges brakes on the newer 1101/1102 trailers and since your are new, they should be in good working order.

By the time you get the trailer loaded you will appreciate the brakes, especially while driving on the road.

What is the tow cap of the new 4 Runner?

Even though the mil tires look cool and are robust, they are not really designed for use at freeway speeds. They also are hard to move and take up a lot of space if you plan to carry a spare.

Do you plan to lift your 4 Runner? If not, you will have to do something to the trailer for it to sit level.

 

[cyclic]

The two things that made me change to regular truck tires............
1) Height, OMG those 37 inch tires make this trailer so tall. Even those with lifted trucks have to run a lifted hitch mount to match it. Even with the smaller tires I can lay comfortably under the trailer and have to reach to touch the bottom.

2) Weight, again OMG those tires and rims are heavy. It literally takes two people to get the a tire in and out of the trailer. Big, awkward, heavy, slow traveling, ect, plus when you switch to lighter truck tires you actually gain trailer capacity. Even just dropping from 150lbs each to 75lbs each using steel rims, you are gaining 150lbs free payload/GVWR. So my M1102 with my 4k lb registration can actually carry the full 2740 lbs and still meet the 4000lb GVWR on my registration.