1984 Dodge W350 Crew Cab

[Kmehr]

Overtime I fire it up, I remember why I started this whole thing. That six cylinder music is just soo sweet.

I ended up just replacing the alternator. the old one was toast (expensive mistake not isolating the stator post and shorting the whole alternator out- $270).

Still have some kinks to work out: Most of my gauges aren't working correctly. Speedo cable seems to have backed itself out of the gauge. Tach is reading off the charts- its hooked up to the stator pickup on my alternator. Boost/EGT/fuel pressure aren't reading anything, which I think is because I haven't hooked up the constant hot. Radio is toast, none of the buttons on the front do anything. Have a new wiper motor that needs to be hooked up. Need to wire the fan relays correctly so that they are on a switched ignition source. I've some how hooked up my dimmer switch relay incorrectly so I'm getting no headlights.

May say screw it and drive it to work tomorrow since I have no meeting or court appearances...or maybe will play it safe and tinker with it this weekend.

 

[Kmehr]

Finally turned the corner and its drivable! new alternator is in, and doesn't get hot at all, so the old one was toast! Figured out the headlights and those are working. The EGT/Fuel pressure?/boost gauges are all working- though the fuel pressure isn't registering anything, more on that in a minute. New wiper motor is installed and all the wiring is run. I'm not getting any power from my hot wire on the painless harness, so right now I've got it hooked straight to the battery. I'm think the ignition switch difference between my truck and the painless harness is the cause of this. Any idea what amp fuse the wiper motor should have?

The EGT is reading very safe levels, which is no surprise given the stock setting on the motor. Boost is peaking at about 15psi on a full throttle pull in third gear, which leads me to believe its just not fueling very hard. I'm running a Super B single, so a decent step up from stock.

The fuel pressure gauge is really not picking up anything (I have it tapped into the banjo bolt on the IP using a Torque tech snubber banjo bolt combo). I'm going to change the fuel filter out just in case, but i'm thinking the gauge is no good? It'd be running like crap with no lift pump right?

AS far as increasing fueling, I haven't touched the pump. I have some .025 delivery valves in a box just waiting to go in, but not sure whether I should start with the AFC mods and pulling the plate or put the DVs in first- thoughts?

It hauled its first load today. Went and got wood for a table I'm making, It's about time the lady got some project time out of me and the truck!

 

[Kmehr]

First off road trip last night. Great trip and was overall very impressed with how the truck did. As always, there are certainly somethings that will need attention.

The biggest issue was overheating. My attempt to wire my fan to come on as switched ignition power was available didn't work correctly, so I got seriously hot on the trail, after getting hot driving up Ute pass. Once I pulled over as steam was coming out of my hood, we hot wired the fan and it cooled off almost instantly, the fan is really effective. Of note, I got to about 255 degrees and the truck ran absolutely fine and started totally normal. These motors are definitely very tough. I'm thinking I need to add some hinged flaps so that as I'm cruising at highway speed more air can travel through the radiator. I have a really long radiator (from a 99 cummins), and my fan is significantly off center, resulting in a good portion of the radiator being shrouded but far away from the opening the fan provides.

Other little things like rattles and vibrations made them selves apparent on the highway as well. I have some sort of a driveline vibration, that it most apparent as I get up to 50+mph, as it is most notable in 4th and 5th. Do get a good shake when above 2000rpms in 3rd as well. I'm am going to start with shimming my axles and hope that takes care of it.

Definitely needs some more sound insulation. The cheap stuff I bought does well with heat, but not so great with sound. Most of the engine noise is coming from in front of me instead the output of the exhaust. Will invest in some hushmat for the firewall, hood, doors and section of floor pan from the front seat forward. I think that will make a good difference.

The other concern I have is a leak of axle fluid from the front driverside area around the end of the tube. I'm really praying that its just because it's overfilled and not because the seal is bad. I think I'll cry if I have to take the front axle apart again.

Finally, power. I'm very impressed with how much power it has essentially stock (175hp pump). I have an intake (ASA modifieds), 4 in turbo back exhaust, and the BD super B turbo. The most boost I've seen is about 22psi, and the truck really gets scootin after about 7psi. Big hills and mountain grades don't even phase it. Saw a max of about 1030 degrees on the pyro. I'm so satisfied with it as is, it may be a while before I feel compelled to mess with the pump!

 

[toastyjosh]

On thing to try is the fuel screw and the star wheel adjustments,and just slide the fuel plate forward. Dont take it out just slide it towards the front of the truck. This should give you a little more fuel with out going overboard.

 

[lstzephyr]

Your truck is looking good. I am glad you pushed past the frustration to continue messing with it.

I have a fuel pressure gauge from glow shift as well. I have tried a snubber, a grease gun hose extension and a second snubber, along with three fuel pressure senders and all three died the same way. I've given up. I'd swap to any other manufacturer than glow shift on the fuel pressure. My boost gauge is a glow shift as well and has never given any problems.

My truck makes 22 psi as well so I doubt there are any problems with your fueling. I have a 366 spring, a mild fuel pin and I've turned the full fuel screw a turn. I think your truck is stock settings or close to it like you have stated.

I managed to fit an intercooler and Ac parts behind a 84 grill on my truck. I bet you could trim the back of a stock insert and make it fit. Might be too much effort though. The mesh looks just fine imo.

 

[Kmehr]

Your truck is looking good. I am glad you pushed past the frustration to continue messing with it.

I have a fuel pressure gauge from glow shift as well. I have tried a snubber, a grease gun hose extension and a second snubber, along with three fuel pressure senders and all three died the same way. I've given up. I'd swap to any other manufacturer than glow shift on the fuel pressure. My boost gauge is a glow shift as well and has never given any problems.

My truck makes 22 psi as well so I doubt there are any problems with your fueling. I have a 366 spring, a mild fuel pin and I've turned the full fuel screw a turn. I think your truck is stock settings or close to it like you have stated.

I managed to fit an intercooler and Ac parts behind a 84 grill on my truck. I bet you could trim the back of a stock insert and make it fit. Might be too much effort though. The mesh looks just fine imo.

Good to know on the fuel pressure. My suspicion is a dead gauge as well. Wiring all looks fine and it was bouncing all over the place when I first got the truck going. Guess you get what you pay for on those, it was like half the price of anything else....

I'd love one of those P-Pump live adjustable AFC deals from Powerdrivenperformance.com but I need to get some other things squared away before I start spending coin on power upgrades...

 

[Kmehr]

My steering is making a lot of big pops and snaps in tight situations. Doesn't look like anything is broken or cracked, but I'm still think crossover steering may be a nice improvement, especially if it helps out with the high speed vibrations.

Anyone have any experience with the Offroad designs kit? They have one for 93 and older Dodges that is supposed to work with 2-3" of lift on Dana 60s. I've got 2.5in springs, so should be perfect.

 

[Kmehr]

Does anyone have experience with air bag kits for the rear suspension? Driving these old fire roads out elk hunting is about to burst my kidneys. My rear leaf packs have 6 springs plus an overload springs and pretty much zero flex when there is nothing in the bed (which is 99%) the time. Someday I'd like a slide in camper, but that's probably a year or more away. Even with my E-rated tires down to about 20psi (scared to go lower), the ride is still brutal.

I'm thinking seriously about the "load lifter 5000 Ultimate" air spring helper kit. Firestone is selling them for $335 with a $100 rebate. Seems much cheaper and easier than custom springs or going chevys and redoing my whole rear suspension bracketry.

My thought is that putting in these air bags in and taking out a couple of the leafs. Running very low psi in them unloaded, then airing up if/when I ever have something really heavy in the bed- they'll level up to 5,000 lbs which is way more than my GVWR. thoughts/experiences?

 

[lstzephyr]

I have a chassis unlimited crossover steering kit on my truck. With a 4" drop pitman it didn't need a bend in the draglink. I do cross the truck up a lot and steering isn't an issue. I recommend it. The steering is now equal left to right and the truck tracks straight.

I just put skyjacker dr40s rear springs on with a 2.5 block. It helped the ride quite a bit and the rear now rides like the front skyjacker 2.5 springs. I am of the opinion that new springs with new bushings and new shocks will help more than adding airbags and removing leafs. The new leafs will have pads between the springs which will help to reduce bind. Are your shocks in decent shape?

 

[Kmehr]

I have a chassis unlimited crossover steering kit on my truck. With a 4" drop pitman it didn't need a bend in the draglink. I do cross the truck up a lot and steering isn't an issue. I recommend it. The steering is now equal left to right and the truck tracks straight.

I just put skyjacker dr40s rear springs on with a 2.5 block. It helped the ride quite a bit and the rear now rides like the front skyjacker 2.5 springs. I am of the opinion that new springs with new bushings and new shocks will help more than adding airbags and removing leafs. The new leafs will have pads between the springs which will help to reduce bind. Are your shocks in decent shape?

Interesting on the rear springs. I have stock height stock springs in the rear. I did a shackle flip and extended the hangers for my lift, probably about 4.5in. The shocks in the rear are in pitiful shape, they look like they were resurrected from the Titanic, and were the original shocks from the front. Maybe that should be my starting point, but it "feels" like the springs in the rear are so stiff and built for handling huge weight that they have zero flex, thus a shock won't make much difference. Maybe i'm wrong about this though.

 

[lstzephyr]

Oh ok. I forgot you had a shackle flip. I wanted to go that direction but I don't have anywhere to do the work currently so I had a shop install rear springs. I would try removing a leaf or two. However the ride was measurably better with new shocks. It isn't any softer but much less harsh and the sharp bumps don't seem as hard edged. I drove it around for a couple days with worn shocks and three days without shocks. The worn shocks had bad bushings and caused strange hops along with shuddering vibrations. No shocks made the truck feel like every bump was going to tear off the glovebox door because every bump felt sharp. With new shocks the same bumps feel smaller which I'd imagine is because the spring is better controlled.

I think good drive ability is the most difficult part of a project to achieve.

Btw I took my glow shift fuel pressure gauge off. It is just sitting in a shelf if you want it just left me know. I'll send it to you for free along with the pressure snubbers.

 

[Kmehr]

I'm going to start with shocks and removing a leaf or two, thanks for the advice! I'll definitely take that glow shift gauge off your shelf, just let me know where to send the shipping.

 

[Kmehr]

I made probably the biggest mess in my mechanicing career today...The tube for my mechanical oil pressure gauge blew off at the oil filter housing, sending oil EVERYWHERE. I mean it when I say everywhere, it's all the way on my rear tires and dripping off the tip of my exhaust pipe! NOT a good day truck wise. At least I only went about two miles before I got home, my cab was filling with smoke from the oil hitting my exhaust. What a disaster.

 

[Kmehr]

Been a long time since I updated this thread:

Picked up a set of slightly used Pro Comp AT Sports this weekend for a good deal. 37x12.5x17s. New black steel wheels will be here Wednesday. I hear good things about this tire and really hope they will balance nicely, I think the BFGs on mine are causing the scary highway vibration I get. I hope they fit without any suspension changes, will of course post pics and results!

I did take the truck on its longest most ardous trek this weekend- drove from the springs up I-70 to Copper mountain and back. Very pleased with how well it did in the mountains. Ran 4th pretty much the whole way on I-70 at around 2100 rpms and didn't see over 940 degrees on the pyro. The 37s are going to put me at about 1750rpms at 75 which will be perfect for the flatter sections of interstate, and give me a little more room in 4th on the big mountain passes. Even got it to start in about 15 degrees with no grid heater or block heater. Took about 5 mins of cranking but I didn't have any other option.

Also picked up a 3K RPM gov spring. Once tires are on, and hopefully that smooths out the highway vibration, I'm going to put that in and start doing some pump work....

Short punch list is 1) tires, 2) fix the newly developed oil leak coming from the front of my motor 3) washer fluid bottle and lines 3) HVAC 4) start doing some pump work. Might take Tuesday off work and spend the day working on it.