My 86' T4R-V8 Swap & SAS Build
- Thread starter rustED
- Start date
rustED
Adventurer
I got the engine cleaned up and painted the block and oil pan black. I painted the intake manifold, water pump silver. I used VHT paint on both. I also got the engine mocked up in place. I had to order a new pilot bushing and throwout bearing from NWOR, so that held me up from installing the tranny for awhile
^^^I picked up a set of shorty headers at a yard sale for $25, but the angle was wrong and would hit the frame, so I had to keep the stock exhaust manifolds.
^^^I picked up a set of shorty headers at a yard sale for $25, but the angle was wrong and would hit the frame, so I had to keep the stock exhaust manifolds.
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rustED
Adventurer
I got the high-steer finished up, the straight pitman arm barely cleared the bottom of the frame.
^^^I had to push the 4runner out of the carport and check out the stance. The back is sitting pretty low. I didn't have any money to do a rear lift, so I got some jeep TJ front coil springs and did the Zuk mod.
^^^After the Zuk mod, it's still sitting a little low, but it raised the back about 3"
^^^I had to push the 4runner out of the carport and check out the stance. The back is sitting pretty low. I didn't have any money to do a rear lift, so I got some jeep TJ front coil springs and did the Zuk mod.
^^^After the Zuk mod, it's still sitting a little low, but it raised the back about 3"
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rustED
Adventurer
The main problem I had with the build was clearance for the radiator. If you you remember back to the 85' pickup, the PO actually mounted the radiator on the outside of the grill, I want to keep it stock in appearance, but my build funds are really limited, I found a short water pump from summit that would gain me 1-1/2" of clearance, but by the time I bought that and all the necessary pullies I was looking at over $500. So I ended up trimming some of the core support. Here's some pics showing the lack of room up front.
So I trimmed the bare minimal amount to make the radiator fit. I swapped the 4cy radiator for a V6 one.
^ I barely could fit two 10" electric fans. I don't know what kind they are reused them off the 85'
So I trimmed the bare minimal amount to make the radiator fit. I swapped the 4cy radiator for a V6 one.
^ I barely could fit two 10" electric fans. I don't know what kind they are reused them off the 85'
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rustED
Adventurer
I got the new pilot bushing and throwout bearing from NWOR. after getting the tranny installed I was getting a slight squeal that I couldnt get rid of when the clutch pedal was released. So I made an adjustable pushrod for the slave cylinder. Another thing to note is the toyota slave cylinder is on the passenger side, the new Ford one is on the driverside. So you have to bend up some new clutch lines and reroute over to the driverside.
After installing the adjustable pushrod for the clutch slave cylinder I was able to adjust the clutch and eliminate the squealing noise.
After installing the adjustable pushrod for the clutch slave cylinder I was able to adjust the clutch and eliminate the squealing noise.
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bkg
Explorer
I ran some braces behind the spring hanger and tied into the crossmember. Also plated both sides of the frame for the steering box. If I was to do it over again, I'd plate the whole section of the frame rail.
if you can, run a brace from the hanger past the two threaded bolt holes. I've repaired cracks on every SAS truck I've done/owned that were not braced.
here's how I did the last repair.
hard to see in pic, but the funny shape pieces weld flat to frame bottom triangulating the cross member and frame rail
rustED
Adventurer
I finally got the shock hoops installed. I didn't quite get my research right on the shocks, I bought 14" travel instead of 12" so I didn't have enough up travel, but plenty of droop.
So I made some new shock mounts higher up on the shock hoop. I will eventually make some bump stops to prevent the shocks from bottoming out.
I had to mount the shock upside down otherwise the shock body would contact the shock hoop.
So I made some new shock mounts higher up on the shock hoop. I will eventually make some bump stops to prevent the shocks from bottoming out.
I had to mount the shock upside down otherwise the shock body would contact the shock hoop.
rustED
Adventurer
if you can, run a brace from the hanger past the two threaded bolt holes. I've repaired cracks on every SAS truck I've done/owned that were not braced.
here's how I did the last repair.
hard to see in pic, but the funny shape pieces weld flat to frame bottom triangulating the cross member and frame rail
Thanks for the tip bkg I'll have to go back and add those. This was my first SAS, (and engine swap for that matter, lol)it was definitely a learning experience! I notice in your pic you have the crossmember reinforcement plate for added strength for winch the mount, I still need to do that as well!
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rustED
Adventurer
So I got the trans installed for the last time with the new pilot bushing and throwout bearing. I was finally able to test drive the Runner!
Still need to get the power steering pump installed tho.
Took the top off for the first time, also got the Smittybuilt front bumperinstalled.
Still need to get the power steering pump installed tho.
Took the top off for the first time, also got the Smittybuilt front bumperinstalled.
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rustED
Adventurer
Since I moved my front axel 2" forward when I did the sas, I needed to lengthen the front drive shaft.
I still had the rear drive shaft from the 85' so I decided to remove the Double Cardan joint from the 4runner drive shaft, cut the 85' rear drive shaft to the length I needed, then welded the DC joint into the new drive shaft.
^The finished drive shaft is 4-3/8" longer than stock length.
I still had the rear drive shaft from the 85' so I decided to remove the Double Cardan joint from the 4runner drive shaft, cut the 85' rear drive shaft to the length I needed, then welded the DC joint into the new drive shaft.
^The finished drive shaft is 4-3/8" longer than stock length.
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rustED
Adventurer
So I ran the Zuk mod for about 2yrs, finally got the money to buy a rear lift kit. I went with AllPro Offroad 6" suspension kit.
I cut off the old leaf spring perches off of the axel, rotated the rear end so the pinion was pointed right at the T case output flange. I also planned to modify the driveshaft and add a double Cardan joint.
[/URL [URL=http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/rustED71/media/4Runner/014_zps453d25e6.jpg.html]
After welding in the Double Cardan joint on the rear drive shaft, I had to swap the rear output shaft flange from my tcase, and put on a front tcase flange from a spare tcase so the drive shaft would bolt up.
I cut off the old leaf spring perches off of the axel, rotated the rear end so the pinion was pointed right at the T case output flange. I also planned to modify the driveshaft and add a double Cardan joint.
[/URL [URL=http://s1058.photobucket.com/user/rustED71/media/4Runner/014_zps453d25e6.jpg.html]
After welding in the Double Cardan joint on the rear drive shaft, I had to swap the rear output shaft flange from my tcase, and put on a front tcase flange from a spare tcase so the drive shaft would bolt up.
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