2002 Tahoe "Expedition" build

Mosinguy1

New member
Thanks everyone for their continued interest in my old gal, and for their kind words. I am amazed that she still draws interest and I am humbled. A couple updates to add from this past couple of months...

First - to answer some questions:

This was one of my very first mods. I cut out the backs of the factory square style fog lights and epoxied them to the back of the DRL housings so they could hold the fog light bulbs. I did have to re-epoxy them about 18 months ago. Otherwise they have held up fine. If you need more details, here is my original post from way back in Nov 2005 on Z71T-S.


Love the bumper. I hit a yearling deer with it about 3 years ago. Ran right in front of me on a suicide mission. I heard a "tink" sound and the thing was sent flying across the road deader than a doornail. Not a scratch on the bumper. At a minimum, without the bumper, I would have needed a new grille, and possibly a headlight and turn signal assembly. I would keep the bumper simply because I like the design and appearance of it. Is it an absolutely must- have item? Nope. But I am glad I did it.

A mod I didn't get any good photos of - I added a peel and stick heat pad for the oil pan. It was about 5" x 7" in size and I routed the power cable up to sit beside the electrical distribution box. I had a chance to try it out this past week when the temps plummeted into single digits. On an 8 degree night (sadly I do not have a garage) I came out in the morning and got the temperature of the oil pan with my IR thermometer. The oil pan was reading 50 degrees which would make for a much easier start and warmup for the engine on such a bitter morning. Successful mod in my book,and I would only bother to plug in the truck on nights with sub zero temps like we got hit with.

Second, and much more costly, was the replacement of my alternator. I was still running the original alternator but could observe the actual voltage output on my Scangauge jumping by an entire volt, sometimes a bit more, while driving. Then my Ham radio started turning itself on, and off, all by itself. Lastly, one day I started the truck and heard a peculiar sort of moaning coming from the engine. I popped the hood and, to my ear, it sounded like the alternator was making the noise. So, I ordered a Mechman 240 amp which should be more than adequate for my electrical needs. It took a few weeks to arrive and I had to install a grounding wire for it, which added a few minutes to the project. It comes with a 2 year warranty and so far seems to be working great. The sound went away, the ham radio stopped acting possessed, and the Scanguage shows a steady output of about 14.4 volts.


View attachment 498249 View attachment 498250

So, that is the latest and greatest, no trips to report at the moment. Still love my Tahoe and have no plans on replacing it.

Did you upgrade your pos and neg cables to a thicker gauge or just leave factory with the added ground?
 

02TahoeMD

Explorer
how you liking the 305's?
So far, so good. I have not had the opportunity to really test them since we are now on our second "non" winter here in a row and I have not had a schedule that allows me to go exploring off the beaten path much. But so far they are wearing well and have good highway manners. There is some very minor chatter from the driver's side wheel well when turning and backing up at times, but it is by no means a deal killer for me.

Love your Tahoe been a huge inspiration for mine ! Hope you still have it
Thanks so very much for everyone's continued interest in her. ;)I have no intentions of getting rid of the old gal, I have put too much time into it. Besides, I hate the idea of having to take on a car payment.

Did you upgrade your pos and neg cables to a thicker gauge or just leave factory with the added ground?

Yes, the cables are upgraded. I can not recall if I put 1 gauge or 0 gauge cables on when I did the upgraded alternator. I also upgraded the battery connection, basically did the "Big 3" upgrade that has been recommended for these vehicles for many years.


Not much dramatic to update on the truck. The past year I replaced all the stereo speakers and the radio with a JVC KD-R490 stereo. WOW what a huge improvement on the sound quality! The old speakers were, unsurprisingly, falling apart and dry rotted. It was amazing they made any sound at all. When doing the speaker swap I did line the doors with some sound deadening material which definitely led to an improvement in clarity, especially when listening to orchestral type music. With the JVC radio I now have a thumbnail sized USB drive plugged into it that holds about 230 albums with room to spare. Now it is impossible to run out of music, and the stereo has a red backlighting that perfectly matches my converted dash lights.

Chassis / drivetrain maintenance has consisted of upgrading the front brakes to the 2007 GM big brakes, fixing the a driver's side CV output shaft seal leak, and chasing the spots of rust that are cropping up here and there on the chassis. I do my best to keep the rust at bay since I hope to make this truck last for years to come. I also put on a set of new body mount lowers since I had two completely rot out and disappear on me - oh how I hate salt treatment on the roads around here.

I have photos I took somewhere around of the work I have done, will have to try and find them, may post them later this week.

As ever, I appreciate that people are still interested in this project now going on 12 years after I started her.
 
oh how I hate salt treatment on the roads around here."

You and me both. My wife is tired of hearing me complain about it, but the second they forecast a possible DUSTING of snow flurries, they counteract it with 3" of salt layer on the roads. Terrible for the environment. Terrible for infrastructure. Terrible for vehicles. It has to cause more damage than it prevents, people should just learn to drive carefully in the snow but I know that'll never happen.

Sorry for the rant haha but that's why Tahoe's don't last. Or any cool old vehicle for that matter.

Glad to see you upgraded the head unit. I was extremely surprised as well when I threw a JVC double din into mine. Never knew a head unit could make that drastic of a change. Also, I never knew an alternator could be exciting but that upgraded wiring looks awesome, I bought a big 3 upgrade package a while back for my 99 Civic but It probably would be more useful in the Tahoe...

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Heavyhoe02

New member
any chance i could get some advice on how you routed the wires for the lights on your roof rack into the cab? trying to find the best weather/rain proof option possible.
 

02TahoeMD

Explorer
any chance i could get some advice on how you routed the wires for the lights on your roof rack into the cab? trying to find the best weather/rain proof option possible.

Sure thing. It did involve some pulling out of trim panels to get things routed properly. The switches were mounted in the housings for the old garage door remote. I then ran the wires from the switches along the headliner all the way over to the driver's side interior D pillar area and down into the area occupied by the woofer. I mounted my relays there. I then routed lines for the roof rack lights from the relays back into the D pillar. Remove the driver's side D pillar exterior trim piece. You will see there are holes made there during manufacturing. I was able to route the wires from inside the cab through those holes. I loomed the wires to give them protection in this area and, when reattaching the exterior trim piece cut a small gap near the top of the trim piece to allow the wires to be fed out. I did this cutting next to where the lift gate meets the trim that way everything remains hidden until it pops up behind the lift gate. Route the cables along the rails for the roof rack to their destination.

I have never had water intrusion from this wiring location thankfully.

Hope this helps, any other questions fire away.
 

Heavyhoe02

New member
Sure thing. It did involve some pulling out of trim panels to get things routed properly. The switches were mounted in the housings for the old garage door remote. I then ran the wires from the switches along the headliner all the way over to the driver's side interior D pillar area and down into the area occupied by the woofer. I mounted my relays there. I then routed lines for the roof rack lights from the relays back into the D pillar. Remove the driver's side D pillar exterior trim piece. You will see there are holes made there during manufacturing. I was able to route the wires from inside the cab through those holes. I loomed the wires to give them protection in this area and, when reattaching the exterior trim piece cut a small gap near the top of the trim piece to allow the wires to be fed out. I did this cutting next to where the lift gate meets the trim that way everything remains hidden until it pops up behind the lift gate. Route the cables along the rails for the roof rack to their destination.

I have never had water intrusion from this wiring location thankfully.

Hope this helps, any other questions fire away.
thank you for your reply thats exactly how i was planning to run mine, but will first have to get a new outer d pillar cover as mine will probably break upon removal. there all cracked and sun rotted.
 

02TahoeMD

Explorer
Wanted to stop in and give an update on some maintenance work I have done on the old girl the past few months. It seems things always crop up in the fall. This past summer I took a trip to TN and on the way home the wiring harness for my E-fan conversion melted a bit and the truck overheated for a few minutes thankfully when I was only about 8 miles from returning home. Wiring harness was replaced, I got many years (about 7 I think ) out of the first one so I can't complain too much.

I built a platform for working on my truck, I am tall 6'-5", but the older I get the harder it is to hang out inside the engine bay. This platform was made entirely out of scrap wood and hardware I had laying around the shed and it was a huge help working on the truck.
IMG-3601.jpg

I had to replace the oil pressure sender unit since my oil pressure starting twitching like it had a nervous tic. This was not too terrible of a project - one time I read you would need to remove the intake to get to it. The right combination of tools and disconnecting the fuel line made it a half hour job. However it is kinda tight to fit your hand and wrist into and there are all manner of sharp edges. Expect to contribute blood to the process.

IMG-3596.jpgIMG-3602.jpg

My power steering pump went bad, wrestling those big tires when the truck is parked is a pain. And so is replacing the power steering pump! To make the job easier, take the pump out with the entire power steering and alternator bracket, and disconnect the steering pump supply line from the steering box, instead of trying to disconnect it from the back of the pump. Trust me, this will save you considerable time!.
IMG-3701.jpg

So, when I finally got the pump off I noticed my factory pump had a valve assembly that the replacement new pump did not. In my research to figure out how to replace the pump I had not ever seen anything about this valve. So, I am mentioning this here so perhaps I can save someone some time and effort ( and a moment of panic ). This is a Variable Steering solenoid and they are apparently so prone to failure that there is a kit that allows you to bypass it entirely. Unfortunately, in my case, I had to switch the old solenoid over to the new pump so I could get my car running again. Part of the inconvenience of only owning one vehicle I guess.

IMG-3704.jpg

So the valve is highlighted in red. The outlet that attaches to the power steering hose is facing down. This kit from Dorman replaces this assembly by deleting it entirely and connects to the factory hose in the same location as if the solenoid was still there. My understanding is that this solenoid delete is a significant improvement, and I may take this project on sometime in the future. It is just such a pain getting all that stuff out of the engine. One additional note - when you are removing the pump and bracket, make sure you do NOT bump the coolant temperature sensor outlet that is literally about 2 inches away from your work space. Bad things can happen. :rolleyes:
Dorman Part.jpg

Lastly, I had to replace one of the washer fluid motors since it had cracked and started leaking all over the place. After replacing the motor I decided to fab up a skid plate to protect the motors and the reservoir from any debris that could possibly be kicked up when traveling. It has been kind of hanging out there in the wind since I did the front bumper conversion and I guess I just got lucky in never having had it take a hard hit. So, now my new washer motor is snugly hidden behind aluminum diamond plate armor. To borrow another forum member's line, I used CAD to make the part first - Cardboard Aided Design. ;)

IMG-3875.jpg

As ever, I am thankful for everyone's continued interest in the old girl. In 2 years she is eligible for Historic Tags. Ya hoo!
 

Overlandtowater

Well-known member
Alright glad to see an update.... I too get to do the oil sending unit soon and I also need to fab a plate to protect my washer jug....still my favorite gmt800 on the web...
 

CrazyDrei

Space Monkey
Wanted to stop in and give an update on some maintenance work I have done on the old girl the past few months. It seems things always crop up in the fall. This past summer I took a trip to TN and on the way home the wiring harness for my E-fan conversion melted a bit and the truck overheated for a few minutes thankfully when I was only about 8 miles from returning home. Wiring harness was replaced, I got many years (about 7 I think ) out of the first one so I can't complain too much.

I built a platform for working on my truck, I am tall 6'-5", but the older I get the harder it is to hang out inside the engine bay. This platform was made entirely out of scrap wood and hardware I had laying around the shed and it was a huge help working on the truck.
View attachment 630373

I had to replace the oil pressure sender unit since my oil pressure starting twitching like it had a nervous tic. This was not too terrible of a project - one time I read you would need to remove the intake to get to it. The right combination of tools and disconnecting the fuel line made it a half hour job. However it is kinda tight to fit your hand and wrist into and there are all manner of sharp edges. Expect to contribute blood to the process.

View attachment 630374View attachment 630376

My power steering pump went bad, wrestling those big tires when the truck is parked is a pain. And so is replacing the power steering pump! To make the job easier, take the pump out with the entire power steering and alternator bracket, and disconnect the steering pump supply line from the steering box, instead of trying to disconnect it from the back of the pump. Trust me, this will save you considerable time!.
View attachment 630377

So, when I finally got the pump off I noticed my factory pump had a valve assembly that the replacement new pump did not. In my research to figure out how to replace the pump I had not ever seen anything about this valve. So, I am mentioning this here so perhaps I can save someone some time and effort ( and a moment of panic ). This is a Variable Steering solenoid and they are apparently so prone to failure that there is a kit that allows you to bypass it entirely. Unfortunately, in my case, I had to switch the old solenoid over to the new pump so I could get my car running again. Part of the inconvenience of only owning one vehicle I guess.

View attachment 630378

So the valve is highlighted in red. The outlet that attaches to the power steering hose is facing down. This kit from Dorman replaces this assembly by deleting it entirely and connects to the factory hose in the same location as if the solenoid was still there. My understanding is that this solenoid delete is a significant improvement, and I may take this project on sometime in the future. It is just such a pain getting all that stuff out of the engine. One additional note - when you are removing the pump and bracket, make sure you do NOT bump the coolant temperature sensor outlet that is literally about 2 inches away from your work space. Bad things can happen. :rolleyes:
View attachment 630379

Lastly, I had to replace one of the washer fluid motors since it had cracked and started leaking all over the place. After replacing the motor I decided to fab up a skid plate to protect the motors and the reservoir from any debris that could possibly be kicked up when traveling. It has been kind of hanging out there in the wind since I did the front bumper conversion and I guess I just got lucky in never having had it take a hard hit. So, now my new washer motor is snugly hidden behind aluminum diamond plate armor. To borrow another forum member's line, I used CAD to make the part first - Cardboard Aided Design. ;)

View attachment 630383

As ever, I am thankful for everyone's continued interest in the old girl. In 2 years she is eligible for Historic Tags. Ya hoo!

02TahoeMD,

You were one of the three most influential and inspiring builds when I started my Sub, but keeping that engine bay so clean you can eat off it tells me you need to get out more often.

Keep up the great build, amazing pictures and keep on inspiring people like me.

Thank you!
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
So far, so good. I have not had the opportunity to really test them since we are now on our second "non" winter here in a row and I have not had a schedule that allows me to go exploring off the beaten path much. But so far they are wearing well and have good highway manners. There is some very minor chatter from the driver's side wheel well when turning and backing up at times, but it is by no means a deal killer for me.


Thanks so very much for everyone's continued interest in her. ;)I have no intentions of getting rid of the old gal, I have put too much time into it. Besides, I hate the idea of having to take on a car payment.



Yes, the cables are upgraded. I can not recall if I put 1 gauge or 0 gauge cables on when I did the upgraded alternator. I also upgraded the battery connection, basically did the "Big 3" upgrade that has been recommended for these vehicles for many years.


Not much dramatic to update on the truck. The past year I replaced all the stereo speakers and the radio with a JVC KD-R490 stereo. WOW what a huge improvement on the sound quality! The old speakers were, unsurprisingly, falling apart and dry rotted. It was amazing they made any sound at all. When doing the speaker swap I did line the doors with some sound deadening material which definitely led to an improvement in clarity, especially when listening to orchestral type music. With the JVC radio I now have a thumbnail sized USB drive plugged into it that holds about 230 albums with room to spare. Now it is impossible to run out of music, and the stereo has a red backlighting that perfectly matches my converted dash lights.

Chassis / drivetrain maintenance has consisted of upgrading the front brakes to the 2007 GM big brakes, fixing the a driver's side CV output shaft seal leak, and chasing the spots of rust that are cropping up here and there on the chassis. I do my best to keep the rust at bay since I hope to make this truck last for years to come. I also put on a set of new body mount lowers since I had two completely rot out and disappear on me - oh how I hate salt treatment on the roads around here.

I have photos I took somewhere around of the work I have done, will have to try and find them, may post them later this week.

As ever, I appreciate that people are still interested in this project now going on 12 years after I started her.
Did you download 230 albums yourself or did you purchase a loaded one?
 

02TahoeMD

Explorer
Did you download 230 albums yourself or did you purchase a loaded one?

I have been collecting CDs since they first debuted in the late 80s. When MP3 became the available format to listen to music I started ripping the favorites of my CD collection down to MP3 files and then transferring them to a mini-disc player. And then eventually switched to storing them on USB drive or SD card as the technology improved. Once the sky was the limit on storing music in this format, I then dug out all my CDs and just dedicated myself to ripping about 20 a day and before long my entire library was available digitally. Nowadays if I find something I really like I just buy a digital album and download it and add it to the collection. I have a master list document that gets updated and printed to keep in the car so I know where to find an album. Works well.
 

02TahoeMD

Explorer
Just a minor maintenance update:
In October 2019 I installed a catch can on the engine, having seen enough videos that show they do work at preventing oil from getting into the intake. My can had a viewing tube to monitor oil capacity, but no media in it to trap the oil. Perhaps it intended to use simple gravity? I placed two stretched out wads of Scotch Brite stainless steel scrubbing pads into the cavity as a way of filtering the air flow. I had not seen any appreciable oil build up in the viewing tube but decided today to take it apart and inspect it.
IMG-4575.jpgIMG-4576.jpg

Yesterday I changed the oil in the truck and opened up the small valve in the bottom of the catch can. I guess perhaps a tablespoon of oil drained out. Today when I opened the top of the catch can up and removed the stainless steel pads, I found them saturated with oil, to the point that I had to use a shop towel to grab them to keep from leaving a trail of oil. I then took a blue shop towel and stuffed it down inside of the catch can and it came out soaked through with oil.
IMG-4573.jpg
From left to right, saturated shop towel, two soaked stainless scrub pads, and a new scrub pad for comparison. Just imagine all of that oil blowing into the intake without having had that catch can in place. The catch can has only been on for 4,000 miles so I guess I will start inspecting it and cleaning it every 6 months or so to insure it stays as clean as possible. (Up to September of last year I had a work vehicle provided by my employer so that had helped to keep the miles down on my Tahoe) The scrub pad filters seem to work at catching the oil as the air passes through the system, not bad for a cheap filter. I got the catch can off of eBay and seems to have been a worthwhile investment.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,531
Messages
2,875,592
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top