need new 88 GM 10 bolt 8.5 front axle outer hubs, anyone know where to buy?

[Rockhounder]

Hey there,
I am rebuilding my front axles on my 88 suburban, went to put the outer bearing race into the hub, and it slides in very very easy. Should these outer bearing races (the smaller, outboard race) just slide in so easily? There is no discernible clicking or movement side to side when it is in position, but they slide out very easily, almost fall out by themselves. Is this normal? Do they tighten up and expand/lock into the hub once pressure is placed on the bearing at re-assembly, or should I be looking for a new set of outer hub casings(these also have the autolocker option)?

I have looked all over the net, and have not found any for sale. Is there a company that has some for sale that anybody knows of? (or any of you guys?)

All the best,
Paul

 

[superbuickguy]

no one makes those hubs because there's a billion or so of them at wrecking yards. The Dana 44 hubs are the same as well.

they should slide on, they should not be forced on. The only ones that get a bit of interference fit are ones that are lubed by the gear oil (rear 14 bolts, dana 60s, etc).

 

[Rockhounder]

Ok thanks, as I got a bit nervous with how easily the smaller outer race almost literally fell into position. Is this something that expands slightly under the bearing roller pressure and keeps the race from potentially moving under wheel forces? Is this normal and I shouldn't worry?.......

Thanks for the info!

 

[AA1PR]

I would get a 14bolt to replace it with

 

[Larry]

Hey there,
I am rebuilding my front axles on my 88 suburban, went to put the outer bearing race into the hub, and it slides in very very easy. Should these outer bearing races (the smaller, outboard race) just slide in so easily? There is no discernible clicking or movement side to side when it is in position, but they slide out very easily, almost fall out by themselves. Is this normal? Do they tighten up and expand/lock into the hub once pressure is placed on the bearing at re-assembly, or should I be looking for a new set of outer hub casings(these also have the autolocker option)?

I have looked all over the net, and have not found any for sale. Is there a company that has some for sale that anybody knows of? (or any of you guys?)

All the best,
Paul

How did the old race come out of the hub? Did you have to drive it out or did it also fall out? If you had to drive out the old one, chances are it could be the replacement race being a tad too small. The race should fit tightly where it should be driven in, not just dropped in. Hopefully, you bought good USA or Japan bearings and races and not cheap China bearings from one of the dime store part stores. That said, I have seen some races that didn’t fit as tightly as I liked so I took a point nose punch and beat a bunch of divots in the hub (like knurling) that way the race would fit tighter.

I would get a 14bolt to replace it with

Put a 14 bolt in the front?

Might be hard to steer don't ya think……He said front axle, not rear. Although a member here did make a custom 14 bolt front axle recently. Talk about fab skills that dude has!

 

[WILLD420]

You should have to drive the race into the hub. If you get the bearings tight enough to expand that race, you won't be able to move it very far before the bearing destroys itself. Sounds like a bad bearing race (too small), or a spun hub bore. If you can't get new hubs, you can take a little 5 minute JB weld and after you get the race bore very, very clean and free of oil/grease, smear a little around the inside of the hub where the race will sit, like you would RTV on a gasket. Then drive the race in and let it set up for at least an hour before you put it together and use it. 24 hours is better, but you can get away with less. Peening the inside of the race bore is what the other guy is referring to, where you take a sharp chisel and make little risers of hub material to help hold the race tight. It works best in conjunction with the JB weld trick and I usually employ them together when something like this comes up.

Is it the right way to do it? No. has it worked for thousands up thousands of miles in all types of rigs. Yes.

If you go on Ebay right now there are probably 20 sets of those hubs on there, some will even be brand new.

Don't listen to the 14bolt crap. There is nothing wrong with a 10 bolt front when you use it within it's design limitations.

 

[superbuickguy]

Hey there,
I am rebuilding my front axles on my 88 suburban, went to put the outer bearing race into the hub, and it slides in very very easy. Should these outer bearing races (the smaller, outboard race) just slide in so easily? There is no discernible clicking or movement side to side when it is in position, but they slide out very easily, almost fall out by themselves. Is this normal? Do they tighten up and expand/lock into the hub once pressure is placed on the bearing at re-assembly, or should I be looking for a new set of outer hub casings(these also have the autolocker option)?

I have looked all over the net, and have not found any for sale. Is there a company that has some for sale that anybody knows of? (or any of you guys?)

All the best,
Paul

wait a minute, as someone later pointed out... you're question is about the hub not the spindle. Sorry. I read that as the bearing slid on the spindle, not the hub.... correction to my advice, no, it sounds like you either got a mis-machined race or the race actually spun in the hub.... - which means the hub is garbage. No one makes a dana 44 or 10 bolt hub - dana 60, yes, dana 44 (same as 10 bolt dimensionally) no.

and you can make a 14 bolt front end, but it's custom and it's REALLY expensive (a new dana 60 is $5,000 and up... 14 bolts are a multiple more than that... just for 1 more bearing.)

 

[1stDeuce]

As stated above, the outer race should go into the hub with a little resistance. Time to replace the hub if it drops in. You can buy them "new" online, but I'd head to an older JY and just get another used one. Unless you let the bearings go bad and seize, they don't really "wear out". Just make sure the truck you take it from has decent looking bearings. Have the rotor turned before you mount it.

And if you use the truck in 4wd much, you might consider replacing the auto hubs. They work Ok for moderate use, but if you ever end up getting stuck where you need to rock a little, you'll probably destroy them. They have to unlock and then re-lock each time you change direction, which can be a little hard on them. I recommend finding an OLD junkyard and pulling a set of OE Spicer hubs off something made pre-1981. They'll fit, and work forever.

Of coarse, if you're happy with the auto hubs, you can keep them. Note that the bearing hub is the same for all types of locking hubs. (Two different parts)
C

<edit> I just found the hub quickly on both Rockauto and Oreilly's website. For some reason, they both stop listing as much stuff for '87 up suburban, so look for parts for an '85. They're the same. Rock has one for $36+shipping, Oreilly wants $60. Might be worth it to avoid the hassle of the JY if you're not that type.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...ake=Chevrolet&model=K10+Pickup+4WD&vi=5012991
C

 

[Rockhounder]

Thanks all,

I got a new set of hubs, plus bearing races, already installed, and bearings from 4x4 tech online.

$90 for each combo set.

I checked the inner surface of the hubs, where the outer races went, and they were not spun, still could see the machining marks from fabrication. Weird at the fitments.... the old races had to be hammered out, but then they slid back in smoothly.... just the same amount of effort that the new bearing races went in.

 

[Rockhounder]

In assembling the hubs, there is the outboard (smaller) bearing. Then there is the nut (the one with the four slots cut out that is about a quarter inch thick with a single nub sticking up). Then there is a flatter washer-like locknut with lots of holes all around and an inner keyed protrusion which is bronze in color, which keeps the nut (against the bearing) from rotating. then there is another nut very similar to the inner nut, then there is a smaller washer that does not have the same diameter as the thick nuts, but is smaller and sits against the inner spindle shaft. This is followed by the circlip ring, which clips into the center shaft.

I really think that ther is a piece missing, however, as there is a space of about an eighth of an inch between the second nut, and the end of the inner spindle tube, where the smaller washer and circlip are located. This makes no sense to me as the outer nut is free to rotate out, which then allows the lockwasher to pop off the nub sticking up from the inner nut, which then lets the bearings get loose.

Shouldnt there be another washer somewhere, perhaps between the lockwasher, and outer nut, or between the outer nut and the washer and circlip?

I have tried to find detailed diagrams of exploded views of this hub assembly, but can't find what I think I need.

Any hints or links would be most appreciated!

thanks!

 

[Rockhounder]

I just found a link to a hub assembly directions that says that you need to torque the outer nut to 65 pounds torque on up to 87 model year axle hubs. I have an 88..... is it still this level, and will that actually work, or is there some other method of keeping that outer nut from unscrewing, thus releasing the locking inner nut?

Is there any particular store that carries the extra deep socket for the nut? I have been able to find sockets that look correct at the business end, but they are too short to fit over the central shaft.

 

[98dango]

Most books say up to 88 as that is when the p/u changed to ifs. The blazer and surburban stayed the same to 91

 

[Rockhounder]

Well, to further report on the saga,

I found the official GM torque specs for the bearings. It says to first tighten the inner nut to 55 pounds, then back off the nut to zero. Then place the lockwasher over, matching to the nub on the inner nut. Then tighten the outer nut to 160 pounds.

I did this, and went for a test drive, the drivers side hub was warm(seems normal) after a 10 minute freeway drive, the passenger side hub was very hot..... aargh.... took the hub apart again, re tightened the nuts to the torque specs, and re-went for another test drive.... same deal... passenger hub is noticeably hotter.....

Not sure what to do now........

How hot should normal operating temperature be for a hub after freeway driving? Should the hub temps even out after the bearings have a chance to wear in, and adjust slightly?

 

[4x4junkie]

No, they should be about equal.

How I've always done bearings like those on the 10-bolt, Dana44 and similar, I crank the inner nut to 35 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor back & forth (55ft-lbs is OK too), back the nut off a half turn, then retighten it to 15 INCH-lbs (this is basically just snugging it by hand to take the play out). Put the lock ring on (flip the ring over if the pin doesn't line up with a hole, don't turn the nut tighter), then spin the outer nut on and tighten to spec (I like to go to about 225ft-lbs on the outer nuts, on some setups they're known to come loose when running big tires).

Something else you may want to check for is a dragging brake, which would cause that side to get much hotter.

As for your spindle washers, it's been awhile since I've been in a 10-bolt, though I believe the D44 is the same...
My recollection is you put the inner nut (w/pin) on, then the lock ring, then the outer nut. The locking hub assembly goes in next and then there's a small circlip that secures the axle shaft in the hub, and a large clip that goes inside the circumference of the wheel hub. Finally the dial cap goes on.

Hope that helps

 

[Rockhounder]

No, they should be about equal.

How I've always done bearings like those on the 10-bolt, Dana44 and similar, I crank the inner nut to 35 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor back & forth (55ft-lbs is OK too), back the nut off a half turn, then retighten it to 15 INCH-lbs (this is basically just snugging it by hand to take the play out). Put the lock ring on (flip the ring over if the pin doesn't line up with a hole, don't turn the nut tighter), then spin the outer nut on and tighten to spec (I like to go to about 225ft-lbs on the outer nuts, on some setups they're known to come loose when running big tires).

Something else you may want to check for is a dragging brake, which would cause that side to get much hotter.

As for your spindle washers, it's been awhile since I've been in a 10-bolt, though I believe the D44 is the same...
My recollection is you put the inner nut (w/pin) on, then the lock ring, then the outer nut. The locking hub assembly goes in next and then there's a small circlip that secures the axle shaft in the hub, and a large clip that goes inside the circumference of the wheel hub. Finally the dial cap goes on.

Hope that helps

Thanks, you described perfectly the process..... as to a dragging brake bad, Yes, I did notice a little bit of noise when turning the wheel, and it turned out to be the brake pads, but it was making a slight noise..... almost unnoticeable, and the wheel, when I rotated it, would turn about 1 revolution when pushed with medium hand turning. I clamped the caliper to force it open, and it then turned about 1.5 revolutions before stopping.

I guess I need to look at un-dragging the brake. Do you have any procedures to follow to do this?