E350 axle needed with a 4" lift? and centered axle clearance

rebar

Adventurer
Quick question about the sterling axle..

I think the sterling truck axles are centered diffs unlike the offset Econoline van's. 2" offset.

Is it possible to use a centered axle due to the lift kit moving the axle/drive-shaft away from the gas tank? And bonus question.. How high of a lift is required for clearance?

My engine is centered anyway.. And I planned on a 4x4 conversion, but with the least amount of lift because I'm towing.

Thanks!
 

rebar

Adventurer
No One?

I'm guessing this question would have been more appropriate over on the camper vans forum.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
I don't quite understand the problem if the pinion isn't centered on the axle - I mean the pinion is not coaxial with the transmission or transfer case output shaft either, yes its parallel to it but there is still some vertical offset between the two. Think of the E-series axle in the same terms as your standard driveshaft, only the offset is in the horizontal plane - same principle still applies though, if the pinion is parallel to the trans/t-case output shaft and the angles are reasonable there shouldn't be any vibrations problems. Or are you worried that the vertical offset due to lift combined with horizontal offset due to fuel tank will add up to overall (compound) u-joint angles that are undesirable?
 
Last edited:

barefoot boy

Observer
All the major u joint manufacturers have information on their websites about acceptable u joint operating angles and how to calculate compound u joint angles. Dana Spicer publication J3311-1-HVTSS "Driveshaft Installation" is the one I usually refer to.
 

rebar

Adventurer
Yeah no.. Im talking about ford's passenger side offset drive line.. And how high of a lift it requires to allow enough pumpkin to gas tank clearance for a centered axle.. Like the sterling truck axle..

Im just trying to make a parts list of what I need to convert my 95 E350 to 4x4. Mainly.. if I want to go old school king pin or metric.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
It does not help you but I think I get it now. I went the other way on my prerunner. I purposely offset the pinion so the axle shafts were the same length.
 
D

Deleted member 12023

Guest
Get ahold of u-joint offroad. They should be able to help you
 

rebar

Adventurer
Get ahold of u-joint offroad. They should be able to help you

Id love to. But I cant afford him and a 1996 isnt worthy.

His work is amazing..

So I just learned the D70 from a DRW E350 were " The 72" DRW/SRW cutaway diffs are one and the same"

wow, I have wasted so much time looking for the SRW it's pathetic.
 
D

Deleted member 12023

Guest
Which Sterling truck are you referring to? Do you mean the smaller 5500 that they made for a few years? If so I believe that is an AAM axle and is offset. It is a dodge ram with a different grill. I don't know a ton about van conversions but I do know you would be better off with a kingpin Dana60 offset to the drivers side. Personally I would not put a double angle on a driveline like that. To me that would be a nightmare trying to get correct pinion angles.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Which Sterling truck are you referring to? Do you mean the smaller 5500 that they made for a few years? If so I believe that is an AAM axle and is offset. It is a dodge ram with a different grill. I don't know a ton about van conversions but I do know you would be better off with a kingpin Dana60 offset to the drivers side. Personally I would not put a double angle on a driveline like that. To me that would be a nightmare trying to get correct pinion angles.

He is talking about the sterling axle not the sterling truck. Of course "Sterling" is just the slang name for the axle. "The Ford 10.25" and Ford 10.5" axles, also known as Visteon and Sterling axles because they are manufactured by Visteon at the Sterling Axle Plant in Sterling Heights, MI."
 

rebar

Adventurer
nightmare trying to get correct pinion angles.

Which Sterling truck are you referring to? Do you mean the smaller 5500 that they made for a few years? If so I believe that is an AAM axle and is offset. It is a dodge ram with a different grill. I don't know a ton about van conversions but I do know you would be better off with a kingpin Dana60 offset to the drivers side. Personally I would not put a double angle on a driveline like that. To me that would be a nightmare trying to get correct pinion angles.

Sorry I don't know much about sterlings other than ujointoffroad uses them.

But you did just open up a big can of worms about pinion angles.. As I mentioned my engine is centered, and my axles diff is offset to the passenger side..

Does that create a huge issue and explain why I have some vibration now? I figured the drive shaft needed balanced.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
The reason UJOR uses the Sterling axles is because they match the metric bolt pattern the '99-up front axles have, and his kits are made for those metric front axles. Plus you get rear disc brakes as well, of the type that actually works properly. But he says it himself that you can keep your van axle with the standard 6.5" BCD and just bolt on a pair of adapters to bring it to the 170mm BCD that matches the front axle. If you use a kingpin D60 front that has the same 6.5" BCD as your current van axle, so no need to swap axles. If you do decide to swap anyways, you're limited to '97-down axles, which won't have disc brakes.

Regarding the driveline angles, I was actually about to ask you last night if you know what your current ones are. Guess you just answered that though. No biggie, vertical angles are easy enough to figure out with a magnetic angle finder, you can pick one up for dirt cheap from Harbor Freight even, and it actually works pretty decent. Horizontal angles would be via basic trig calculation based on length of driveshaft and offset between pinion and transmission or transfer case output shaft. So, how long is your rear driveshaft from u-joint cap to u-joint cap, and how much do you think the pinion is offset to the right with respect to the output shaft? Good news is that as long as pinion and output shaft are parallel, as in pointing straight front and straight back (up and down tilts do not matter for this) then the horizontal U-joint angles are the same at the front and rear U-joints, and that is what you want to be vibration-free. The reason you have vibrations now could be the shaft does indeed need balancing, or you carrier bearing (if one is present) is not in stellar condition, or when the Cummins swap was done the overall drivetrain angle (adjusted via the transmission mount height) wasn't quite right. The angle finder will show if the last one is a problem.
 

rebar

Adventurer
The reason UJOR uses the Sterling axles is because they match the metric bolt pattern the '99-up front axles have, and his kits are made for those metric front axles. Plus you get rear disc brakes as well, of the type that actually works properly. But he says it himself that you can keep your van axle with the standard 6.5" BCD and just bolt on a pair of adapters to bring it to the 170mm BCD that matches the front axle. If you use a kingpin D60 front that has the same 6.5" BCD as your current van axle, so no need to swap axles. If you do decide to swap anyways, you're limited to '97-down axles, which won't have disc brakes.

Regarding the driveline angles, I was actually about to ask you last night if you know what your current ones are. Guess you just answered that though. No biggie, vertical angles are easy enough to figure out with a magnetic angle finder, you can pick one up for dirt cheap from Harbor Freight even, and it actually works pretty decent. Horizontal angles would be via basic trig calculation based on length of driveshaft and offset between pinion and transmission or transfer case output shaft. So, how long is your rear driveshaft from u-joint cap to u-joint cap, and how much do you think the pinion is offset to the right with respect to the output shaft? Good news is that as long as pinion and output shaft are parallel, as in pointing straight front and straight back (up and down tilts do not matter for this) then the horizontal U-joint angles are the same at the front and rear U-joints, and that is what you want to be vibration-free. The reason you have vibrations now could be the shaft does indeed need balancing, or you carrier bearing (if one is present) is not in stellar condition, or when the Cummins swap was done the overall drivetrain angle (adjusted via the transmission mount height) wasn't quite right. The angle finder will show if the last one is a problem.

Thanks for taking the time to explain that..I will have to pick up the angle finder and measure soon..

But now I'm a bit concerned about the the output shaft on the np205 T-cass on my NV4500 I plan on using, and its offset compared to the offset of the a ford front D60 I plan on using.. No way is it going to be the same offset..

Always somethin..
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Wouldn't worry much about it, same deal applies to the front as to the rear - actually the front should be even easier since it has a double-cardan joint on the transfer case side, and it's not spinning all the time like the rear shaft is anyways. Besides, if you drivetrain is currently centered to match a truck rear axle, then the front truck axle will match it as well.
 

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