Atlantic British rebuilds

[trooper8807]

OK, disclaimer time. I would like to start off by saying I know my profile is out of date. I am on my tablet and having a hard time updating it. I also know that the things I'm going to talkabout in this post will seem far from worth it to most. Oh well call me crazy.

Now that I have gotten that out of the way, I have been driving and slightly modifieing a 2000 p38 for about 2.5 years now. I have put nearly 30 thousand miles on her in that time. I was unfortunately blessed with a slipped liner. My current plan is to order the Atlantic British long block rebuild. I find the flanged liners to be very attractive. I was hoping to hear some feedback on anyone who may have used one of there rebuild before, and any good or bad feedback they may have.

Also my local independent lr shop recommended upgrading to the 4.6 while I am At it. Others have said that my running gear may not handle that well. Any pointers in this area would be helpful as well. Thanks ahead of time!

 

[azlandrover]

engine replacement

OK, disclaimer time. I would like to start off by saying I know my profile is out of date. I am on my tablet and having a hard time updating it. I also know that the things I'm going to talkabout in this post will seem far from worth it to most. Oh well call me crazy.

Now that I have gotten that out of the way, I have been driving and slightly modifieing a 2000 p38 for about 2.5 years now. I have put nearly 30 thousand miles on her in that time. I was unfortunately blessed with a slipped liner. My current plan is to order the Atlantic British long block rebuild. I find the flanged liners to be very attractive. I was hoping to hear some feedback on anyone who may have used one of there rebuild before, and any good or bad feedback they may have.

Also my local independent lr shop recommended upgrading to the 4.6 while I am At it. Others have said that my running gear may not handle that well. Any pointers in this area would be helpful as well. Thanks ahead of time!

I am the original owner of a 1999 Range Rover 4.0 P38. The vehicle has 167,000 miles on it and has been well maintained. I had a coolant leak that migrated into #5 cylinder causing missfire on startup, MIL light (cylinder #5 misfire), coolant consumption (small, less that 1 gallon every 10,000 miles), and exhaust gas pressurizing the cooling system. This has been an ongoing problem for over 5 years.

I finally bit the bullet and ordered an engine (long block) complete with flanged liners, cylinder heads and gasket set from Turner Engineering in the UK. I have done business with Turner several times before with excellent results. They are, in my opinion, the gold standard when it comes to land rover engines…

I personally observed an Atlantic British long block with a valve spring not completed seated in the recess on the cylinder head- this resulting in the rocker shaft failing. Atlantic British covered this under warranty.

Anyway, when you have a liner issue, the only way to correct it is to either rebuild the engine or replace the engine. This is a known problem with some aluminum block land rover engines…

My total cost was 4200.00 for the engine delivered in PHX via DHL airfreight- 5 day service from the UK and 1500 for the removal and installation of the replacement.

I recomment Turner Engineering.

-sg

 

[trooper8807]

Hmm that isn't what I was hoping to hear. I will contact Turner and see how they feel and cost of getting one of there rebuilds in the US. In the meantime I think Atlantic is my best bet over here. The local Ind rover shop says they have a close working relationship with Atlantic and will cover any work needed in order to take advantage of atlantics warranty. It is a shame because I happen to put both rocker arms, Lifters , Head gaskets and valve covers all last year.

According to them they used to do install flanged liners but all the machine shops around just couldn't get it right and wouldn't warranty there work.

 

[Sticky]

I'd also recommend Turner Engineering.

This is all they do and they supply the local Range Rover restoration specialist near me, who tell me that they have almost stopped using anyone else because Turner are so reliable.

I think their testing procedure prior to shipping is worth the extra, even with shipping costs added.

I've had two Defender engines from them that have been faultless.

 

[I Leak Oil]

I'm not sure where AB gets their motors from. May even be from Turner. Doubt they do their own work.
The mighty 4.6 will not hurt your current drive train. That's rubbish.

 

[LR Max]

Find out who does their rebuilds.

As for AB, yeah sometimes you get a bad engine. It happens. The fact that they took care of the customer shows that they stand behind their product. I think that would weigh in on the situation as well.

Turner does good work. So does Cannibal in Oklahoma. I've seen one truck with their engine in it and it looked well done. Just follow the break in procedure.

 

[Red90]

If buying a long block (or short block), get the 4.6 It would be insane to spend that kind of money and not do it.

Or just do this: http://store.toddcosuspensions.com/landrover50ho.html

 

[GaAlpinaowner]

CannibalV8 was my choice. Could not be happier

 

[KyleT]

Fwiw top hat liners won't fix block porosity issues.

I would find a gems 4.6 and rebuild it.

Or take your 6k and buy another truck.

 

[pugslyyy]

I'm not sure where AB gets their motors from. May even be from Turner. Doubt they do their own work.
The mighty 4.6 will not hurt your current drive train. That's rubbish.

Agree 100%.

Get a good short block with 4.6 crank and pistons in it. Get a good machine shop to go over your head. Sandwich them together with new bolts and fel-pro gaskets.

I'm not sold on the value of top-hat liners. A decent block is going to hold together.

I have a chipped RPI Stage 3 4.6 in my 110. It's a crazy great engine but may be more than you need.

 

[GaAlpinaowner]

Too many expert internet naysayers here. Do yourself a favor and do your homework. Stock Buick Blocks are all time bombs and they are grenading left and right. Call Steve at Cannibal talk to AB and talk to Turner. There are reasons they come with warranties. Or rebuild the perfect reliable timebomb and sit on pins and needles. :Wow1:

 

[rlynch356]

In a P38.. Your rebuilt motor is going to be worth more than the truck before its installed typically. Unless your committed to the truck i would trade (sell) it up to another truck instead of rebuilding it.
If your determined to put a new motor in it i would source a used motor and rebuild the top end
Here is example of just that being done "Right Now" - once the heads were pulled off it (its a 3.9) that Derek is doing in his SIIa -

Multiples of $ cheaper..
the previous poster is correct - the do come with "If's" but all rover motors do, Mine has 138k on it (rebuilt heads 5k ago). Keep the oil fresh and 10w40 they can last a long time. The design is not great inherently due to the low oil pressure they typically produce. We are eliminating the EFI system and using carbs on the SIIa, for now anyway.

 

[proper4wd]

Oil choice is incredibly important. The Rover V8 is a flat tappet engine. Modern engine oils and flat tappet engines are not necessarily compatible. This leads to issues like worn out camshafts. High zinc content 10W40 with a good amount of detergent will keep a RV8 running happy for a very long time. (So long as you don't overheat it).

 

[EricTyrrell]

Oil choice is incredibly important. The Rover V8 is a flat tappet engine. Modern engine oils and flat tappet engines are not necessarily compatible.

This is exactly why I run Quaker State 5W-50 "Ultimate Durability Full Synthetic" oil. Works very well in the RV8.

 

[GaAlpinaowner]

Oil choice is incredibly important. The Rover V8 is a flat tappet engine. Modern engine oils and flat tappet engines are not necessarily compatible. This leads to issues like worn out camshafts. High zinc content 10W40 with a good amount of detergent will keep a RV8 running happy for a very long time. (So long as you don't overheat it).

Totally agree 100% I use the High Zinc Val Racing oil just for this reason