So when I got back to the internet- I looked up torque wrenches to that scale: $300-1000 with most made in China. Everyone buying a $300 to 1000 to set the proper torque on their FG's? How much fun is that with the rears? Any emergency hernia cases?
So how are you setting the proper torque?
Mark
A proper torque wrench is worth the money.
I bought mine for about $100 off eBay, polished the hazed-over plastic dial cover with some toothpaste and cigarette ash, check the calibration via work and was good to go.
Have you seen this thread, there is lots and lots of good information there
Those hard to undo wheel nuts!
My posts in that thread:
01/16/14
Since I was doing some wheel work yesterday I thought I would post 'what works for me'.
I have super singles now so I run just nuts, no Budd studs, but I still carry that setup (the 21mm square Budd) in case I come across a fellow
Fusonite that needs help. Also I carry my Budd studs as spare lug nuts.
I used the combination wrench (41mm hex / 21mm Budd) to take the nuts off and run them down prior torqueing. Instead of buying the 'normal' 2 foot hex bar, I bought a 3 foot crowbar and cut the curved end off. So I got 50% more length for 50% less $$.
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Normally there is no issue getting the lugnuts off as I lube the nuts (both threads and face)... not per the manual, but it works for me and I check for loosening via torque strips. But I do have an adjustable jackstand that can support the wrench/extension if extra force is needed.
Torqueing is done with a 600 ft-lb range four foot long (takes down to two foot) torque wrench using a Snap-on 41mm socket. I like this socket a lot, as it is 4 inches long so it can be used on the front without the need for an extension (rear requires an 6-8 inch extension)
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To allow me to use the combination wrench with my torque wrench I made two adapters. To use the 41mm end, the torque wrench (3/4" drive) goes in 21mm end using a 'L' shim made from a 1"x1"x.0125" square tubing the was cut in half on the diagonal to make an equal length 'L'. This was sanded to size to make a tight fit for the 3/4" drive in the 21mm end. To use the Budd end, I machined a 3/4" to 1" adapter to fit inside one of the 'old' rear lugnuts and welded it in place
(see photo).
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Normal set-up
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'Budd' set-up (click to enlarge)
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(red/white striping is so they are not 'misplaced' in the dirt/sand)
11/25/14 #1
Being a mechanic my whole life, I do agree with using the 'armstrong' torque wrench (feels right) BUT the higher the torque, the larger error/feel can be. It is one thing torquing a 80 in-lb bolt and being off 10%, so say 8 in-lb off and miss-torquing 350 ft-lb off with probably a 20% percent error. For our 'arm' to get the feel of the correct torque we have to torque to that target values a lot. I don't know about you, but nothing I deal with (other then helicopter stuff), does not go that high, so not a lot of muscle memory there. And the helios I used to work on have the Jesus Nuts torqued to 4,500 ft-lbs (yes 45 with two zeros), so not done without a multiplier.
I personally don't see the whole hullabaloo over these lug nuts once they are torqued correctly. If the truck started off mis-torqued then that can be a real pain, both getting them off and possible damage, but once they are torqued correctly, they are not out of the ordinary.
Heck, I bought a used 600 ft-lb torque wrench off eBay for $100.00 (I checked the calibration via work). I probaly spent that much on sockets and extensions, so it was not some killer cost factor. It is a great piece of mind knowing they are at the correct torque and not at some guess (I've worked in aviation my whole life, so 'guessing' is not allowed in regards to torque, at least at work).
The tire shop I use and think highly of does not even have a torque wrench that goes into the Fuso range, while they always torque 'normal' lug nuts because of the liability if they don't. I guess if you drive a Fuso, you are expendable. And of course bring your own torque wrench to the tire shop is kind of like bring that custom made 2 piece pool cue to the pool hall.....
11/25/14 #2
The FE/FG manual states 'dry', while the FH & FM manual states 'lubed'
I lube mine (as per the FH/FM manual) since I think the rust and corrosion is a big problem with these lugnuts being hard to remove.
I reduce my target torque by 8% to compensate for the lubing. I also torques-strip my nuts so I can see if they are loosing, which they have not.
I'd rather visual check my lugnuts then have them un-removeable on the side of the road somewhere.
