How do you torque your nuts????

[Mock Tender]

After seeing all the pictures and hearing the horror stories of getting the nuts off a FG, I decided to buy this "Torque Multiplier Truck Trailer RV Lug Nut Wrench" at Amazon: plus a 41mm impact deep socket.

Except for having to make a insert for the inner wheel nut- the thing worked like a charm. I wasn't there when they took the stock wheels off, but except for adding more grease to the torque multiplier, it went without a hitch.

Then came putting on the new nuts and wheels. The Fuso owners manual says “440 to 540 N·m (325 to 398 ft.lbs., 45 to 55 kgf·m)”: the Torque multiplier owners manual said when the handle is released and it spends backwards a few times- you are at the right pressure (or something like that). Well since no one had a torque wrench that reads to “440-540 N-m”, we went with the “spends backwards a few times”.

So when I got back to the internet- I looked up torque wrenches to that scale: $300-1000 with most made in China. Everyone buying a $300 to 1000 to set the proper torque on their FG's? How much fun is that with the rears? Any emergency hernia cases?

So how are you setting the proper torque?

Mark

 

[Czechsix]

torque wrench, or index marks...both seem to work pretty well. I think it was Mog(?) that made a post on torquing the lug nuts, a while back.

 

[SkiFreak]

Basically... I do not trust tyre fitters as far as I could throw them.
I bought a cheapie Chinese 58:1 torque multiplier from eBay (about $35 delivered) to get the nuts off and forked out about $600 for a Precision Instruments C4D800N torque wrench to do the suckers up.
Some time last year the imperial version of my torque wrench was going for about $350, which I thought was a really good deal. And yes... I was a happy camper when I saw them at that price, NOT.

From what I learned, not all torque wrenches are made equal. Do your research...

 

[dlh62c]

From what I learned, not all torque wrenches are made equal. Do your research...

Ditto!

Not all torque wrenches are bi-directional.

Mark is it this one, Torque-Multiplier-Truck-Trailer-Wrench?

Doing the math;
Upper Limit: 398 ft.lbs / 58 = 6.89 ft.lbs * 12 = 82.69 in.lbs
Lower Limit: 325 ft.lbs / 58 = 5.60 ft.lbs * 12 = 67.24 in.lbs

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, it was around 4am when I did these calculations.

 

[SkiFreak]

Not only that, but with some you have to back off the torque setting to zero when done or it will affect it's accuracy over time.

 

[redneck44]

Just use the torque multiplier, the clue is in the name, with a smaller, good quality, torque wrench
The multipliers are not 100% efficient, so you will need to compensate for the losses i.e. add a bit to the torque wrench setting, how much is dependent on the multiplier.
eg.http://www.norbar.com/en-gb/product...ame/manualtorquemultipliers/category_multid/2

 

[dlh62c]

Just an FYI, not all Torque Multiplier sets are created equal.

An email response from Cheater Wench on its use on Budd lug nuts.

Hi Daryl

Yes, the Cheater Wrench will work on Budd lug nuts and even includes a Budd socket (4 point, 21mm). It also has a socket extension to be able to easily reach back there.

Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!

Regards,

-Dan D.
Cheater Wrench Customer Service

 

[SkiFreak]

Just use the torque multiplier

If you use a high quality torque multiplier (like the Norbar one you linked to that has roller bearings) then you may be correct, but as a blanket statement I would be a little skeptical of doing that.
I definitely would not think that a small torque wrench hanging off the back of my $35 Chinese torque multiplier would deliver a result I would be confident with. I don't know how close the torque on the bolts would actually be, but I am guessing that it might vary considerably.

 

[redneck44]

double post

 

[redneck44]

For real torquing we use a torque meter to set the output figure.
If you can find an engineering shop with a calibrated torque meter that you can check against, you can get fairly reliable figures with a good quality small torque wrench. Its only a gearbox after all.
The higher the multiplication the higher the uncertainty becomes but on a 5:1 or similar it should be pretty good.

 

[pugslyyy]

I have a Snap-on split-beam torque wrench, the TQR600

These are reversible (you rotate the head 180 degrees) and have the advantage of being "set and forget", there is no spring that needs to be relaxed for storage.

Snap-on tools aren't cheap, but if you've followed my adventures you know I had an experience with over torqued lug nuts that I inherited from the previous owner that made it worth the investment to me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-TQR600C-Torque-Wrench-Ratchet-3-4-Drive-200-600-ft-lbs-w-Case/321697090952?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28772%26meid%3D69116cd567734387b4cd5b16a00fd1b8%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D180976929766

 

[SkiFreak]

I have a Snap-on split-beam torque wrench, the TQR600

My understanding is that the Snap On, Caterpillar and Precision Instrument split-beam torque wrenches all have the same specifications and I am pretty sure I read somewhere that they are all made in the same factory.
My Precision Instrument wrench looks exactly the same as yours, bar the Snap On branding.

 

[pugslyyy]

yes, mine just has a snap-on head that is reveresible. I have a smaller PI split-beam that is identical except for the head.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[kerry]

You can approximate torque with a long breaker bar and a known weight--like your body. Then use the plastic lug watchers to make sure they don't move. I realize this isn't a confessional but I'm almost 62 yrs old and I've never torqued a lug nut in my life. I've also never had a lug come loose or become irremovable. I have little doubt that this highly unscientific method of mine is much superior to the idiots I have encountered at tire shops. Last time I specified that the Fuso lugs could not be tightened with an air wrench but had to be manually torqued. Before I paid the bill, I asked for assurance that they had not been tightened with an air wrench. They told me that since they couldn't find the torque specifications for the Fuso they had used an air impact. What the hell!! I refused to pay the bill until the loosened them and hand torqued them. They refused. The final compromise was that I would pay the bill if they simply loosened them all and let me tighten them myself in their parking lot. That required them typing up a release of liability form which I had to sign. I won't be going back there.

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

Water pipe

Like most folk on here I have fallen foul of the tyre shops who crank up their rattle guns when doing up wheel nuts. In my 4wds I have always carried a cheap torque wrench which I have 'calibrated' against my good workshop unit.

When I bought my NPS one of the first things I did was to try and remove the wheels to check things, put anti-seize on the studs and do them up to the right settings. I ended up using a long piece of water pipe to get them off and realised why when I looked up the torque settings.

Rather than carry yet another heavy tool I decided to retain the muti-use water pipe. Knowing my weight I measured the required distance out from the stud and painted a mark on the pipe. I do up the nuts with the Isuzu supplied tool and then place the socket on the nut with the pipe just above horizontal. I then stand on the pipe with my foot centered on the mark to inch up the last bit. I reckon this will be accurate to better than 10% which I am happy with given I don't expect to have to do it often in the field.

Unfortunately the mark has got closer to the nut as I update the calibration :exclaim:

alastair