Looking for a reliable high output alternator for my 05 suburban z71.
- Thread starter kojackJKU
- Start date
Scoutn79
Adventurer
Have you had your alternator checked?
Is your alternator the biggest offered? Some options will have a higher output alternator installed. Cadillacs have larger alternators sometimes because of all of the electronic goodies that need to be run.
If you are operating at lower engine rpm's while plowing, which I don't think you would be, you could look into a smaller pulley for your current alternator to speed it up and put out more amps at lower engine rpm.
Might be worth looking into the cost/feasibility of a dual alternator set up like on an ambulance.
Darrell
Is your alternator the biggest offered? Some options will have a higher output alternator installed. Cadillacs have larger alternators sometimes because of all of the electronic goodies that need to be run.
If you are operating at lower engine rpm's while plowing, which I don't think you would be, you could look into a smaller pulley for your current alternator to speed it up and put out more amps at lower engine rpm.
Might be worth looking into the cost/feasibility of a dual alternator set up like on an ambulance.
Darrell
I sure like AMAZON, look at this: http://www.amazon.com/HIGH-ALTERNATOR-00-05-CHEVROLET-SUBURBAN/dp/B007D6IR6S
If not, just google it, seems like lots of options.
Good luck
If not, just google it, seems like lots of options.
Good luck
chaos616
Adventurer
depends on how much you want to spend, they also have dual alternator kits. I was warned off of high output and sent to 2 normal output because of the rpm needed to actually get high output.
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/
http://www.highoutputalternator.com/
http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/
There are many other places too.
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/
http://www.highoutputalternator.com/
http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/
There are many other places too.
Scoutn79
Adventurer
How are you measuring the power drain? Do you have a amp meter that is showing discharge? Or are the lights and plow motor slowly dying over a plowing session?
I have always steered clear of fancy aftermarket alternators. They may work great at the time but if they go out are you going to be able to swing by NAPA and get a replacement under warranty and get back to work or are you going to have to make other arrangements with your plow while you wait a week or more. for a replacement.
If my paycheck could be affected by my work truck being down (as mine does) I want parts I can pick up on the way home, replaced that night, and have the truck back to work the next day.
Darrell
I have always steered clear of fancy aftermarket alternators. They may work great at the time but if they go out are you going to be able to swing by NAPA and get a replacement under warranty and get back to work or are you going to have to make other arrangements with your plow while you wait a week or more. for a replacement.
If my paycheck could be affected by my work truck being down (as mine does) I want parts I can pick up on the way home, replaced that night, and have the truck back to work the next day.
Darrell
1stDeuce
Explorer
Those trucks CAME with pretty dang high amp alternators, so you should not be having much of a problem for normal plowing...
For starters, have your alternator tested and make sure it's OK. If it's not doing well, then replace it with whatever the highest amp alternator the parts store says will fit. And have your battery tested too while you're at it! A weak battery will make the alternator seem bad, when the problem is really the battery.
If you don't get a significant run time between the last job and when you shut the truck off, it's probably low a lot, and that kills batteries fast. If you finish a job and are done without much of a drive, at least let the truck idle for 15 minutes or so with the heater and lights off before you shut it down. That'll help to keep the battery happy.
For doing a lot of small jobs with a lot of angling and lifting but little drive time between jobs, you could also consider adding a second battery to help out, or replace your stock battery with the biggest one you can fit in it's place.
The other thing to check is the amperage draw of your plow motor. Older Western motors had huge amp draw compared to newer stuff. That motor should only be running for 1-2 seconds at a time for most plowing, so if yours is exceptionally slow to lift or angle, you have hydraulic problems that are causing you to run the motor way too much, and you need to fix that first.
Finally, technique can come into play as well... If you're lifting the plow all the way up every time you lift it, that takes a lot of power. So does lifting it while you're pushing instead of letting it ride up the bank a little. I let it ride up, and bump the up button for a second to lift the arm, but not necessarily all the way up. That way you're just free spinning the motor, not really having to generate much pressure. And you should be letting go of the lift or angle button just before it stops angling or lifting, not half a second after. Anytime the motor runs but the plow isn't going up or angling anymore, the amp draw spikes really high. Don't do that.
Hopefully something there helps you out!
Chris
For starters, have your alternator tested and make sure it's OK. If it's not doing well, then replace it with whatever the highest amp alternator the parts store says will fit. And have your battery tested too while you're at it! A weak battery will make the alternator seem bad, when the problem is really the battery.
If you don't get a significant run time between the last job and when you shut the truck off, it's probably low a lot, and that kills batteries fast. If you finish a job and are done without much of a drive, at least let the truck idle for 15 minutes or so with the heater and lights off before you shut it down. That'll help to keep the battery happy.
For doing a lot of small jobs with a lot of angling and lifting but little drive time between jobs, you could also consider adding a second battery to help out, or replace your stock battery with the biggest one you can fit in it's place.
The other thing to check is the amperage draw of your plow motor. Older Western motors had huge amp draw compared to newer stuff. That motor should only be running for 1-2 seconds at a time for most plowing, so if yours is exceptionally slow to lift or angle, you have hydraulic problems that are causing you to run the motor way too much, and you need to fix that first.
Finally, technique can come into play as well... If you're lifting the plow all the way up every time you lift it, that takes a lot of power. So does lifting it while you're pushing instead of letting it ride up the bank a little. I let it ride up, and bump the up button for a second to lift the arm, but not necessarily all the way up. That way you're just free spinning the motor, not really having to generate much pressure. And you should be letting go of the lift or angle button just before it stops angling or lifting, not half a second after. Anytime the motor runs but the plow isn't going up or angling anymore, the amp draw spikes really high. Don't do that.
Hopefully something there helps you out!
Chris
rayra
Expedition Leader
Would definitely recommend the second battery, after first determining how well your existing battery and alt are working. Seconding 1stDeuce's comments about examining technique & habits, too.
These trucks were offered with three tiers of alternators, ~105A, ~140A, ~160A+, make sure you have the biggest. It's literally just a few dollars difference at the parts store. Seconding the dual alternator setup, rather than the more expensive custom high output. Somebody recently posted a picture here of a dual alt setup in relation to a very high powered stereo setup, the install looked very nice.
These trucks were offered with three tiers of alternators, ~105A, ~140A, ~160A+, make sure you have the biggest. It's literally just a few dollars difference at the parts store. Seconding the dual alternator setup, rather than the more expensive custom high output. Somebody recently posted a picture here of a dual alt setup in relation to a very high powered stereo setup, the install looked very nice.
snowblind
Adventurer
Dual battery might be almost required on a 2005 Suburban for plowing. My lights dimmed from just a subwoofer.
Have you looked at Mechman? One of the best in the car audio business and designed for highoutput at lower RPMs. Mechman Alternators -> http://www.mechman.com/alternators/chevrolet/suburban/05-14/
240amp Model @ $350 - 140+ amps at 600 RPM engine speed, 240+ amps above 1800 rpm.
270amp Model @ $450 - 165+ amps at 600 RPM engine speed, 270+ amps above 1800 rpm.
370amp Model @ $700 - 200+ amps at 600 RPM engine speed, 370+ amps above 1800 rpm.
Napa has a 200 amp model online for $254 so the 240amp mechman model does not seem unreasonably priced.
Regardless of the alternator choice, I think the key to good output at low RPMS is a smaller alt pully.
Matt
rayra
Expedition Leader
Too, if the OP is making most of his plow adjustments while at rest / idling, the power solution might be as easy as holding a higher idle / generating more power output from the alternator, while fiddling with the plow settings. Might just be operating at a power deficit that's draining a weakened battery faster than it's being charged.
I'd verify what amp the existing alt is and what its outputs are at idle and middlin' RPMs and compare that to the draw of the electric motor on the plow.
I'd verify what amp the existing alt is and what its outputs are at idle and middlin' RPMs and compare that to the draw of the electric motor on the plow.
1stDeuce
Explorer
In college, I plowed a lot, as in many drives and a church parking lot, with a '78 Chevy that had a 63 amp alternator, dual batteries, and an old Western lift unit that sucked a lot of amps. If that setup can work for me, you should be fine even if you've "only" got the 105a alternator! Test the battery and the alt, i'm sure one of them is not up to what you're asking of it...
If you're watching the gauge on the dash, it's measure voltage, not amperage... You'll see it dip when the plow pump runs, but it should bounce back to normal voltage fairly quickly after you release the button. Dual batteries will help the dip, but won't cover for a weak alternator. If your alt shows bad, then by all means go get the highest output FACTORY alternator you can find. I would recommend staying away from the really high amp aftermarket units, as they typically overstress some components and fail quickly when used a lot... (I tried a 106a version of the 10si on my old truck, but it ate belts for lunch, and within a year had failed, so I went back to the stock 10si and had no more problems.)
Since you're plowing with a suburban, it may also be necessary to kill the rear heater, and turn the front heater down to a lower fan setting too. If you're running lights, plus both heaters on high, plus other stuff (rear defroster, seat heaters, thumpin stereo?) that's a lot of amperage that's getting sucked up. As an alternative to turning that stuff off, you could also try plowing in low range. Sounds stupid, but it'll get the RPM's up more and let the alternator do a better job of charging while you push or back up.
You'll get it figured out.
C
Test the battery and the alt, i'm sure one of them is not up to what you're asking of it... If you're watching the gauge on the dash, it's measure voltage, not amperage... You'll see it dip when the plow pump runs, but it should bounce back to normal voltage fairly quickly after you release the button. Dual batteries will help the dip, but won't cover for a weak alternator. If your alt shows bad, then by all means go get the highest output FACTORY alternator you can find. I would recommend staying away from the really high amp aftermarket units, as they typically overstress some components and fail quickly when used a lot... (I tried a 106a version of the 10si on my old truck, but it ate belts for lunch, and within a year had failed, so I went back to the stock 10si and had no more problems.)
Since you're plowing with a suburban, it may also be necessary to kill the rear heater, and turn the front heater down to a lower fan setting too. If you're running lights, plus both heaters on high, plus other stuff (rear defroster, seat heaters, thumpin stereo?) that's a lot of amperage that's getting sucked up. As an alternative to turning that stuff off, you could also try plowing in low range. Sounds stupid, but it'll get the RPM's up more and let the alternator do a better job of charging while you push or back up.
You'll get it figured out.
C
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I need all the heat I can get, steams up quickly. I am going to swtich to HID in my plow lights to draw less power. Or I may even upgrade to truck lights in them. I will check the codes in the box tomorrow. Worked better today. It could be the battery. I am going to do some testing tomorrow.
superbuickguy
Explorer
Interesting .... 14 posts and no one recommends any brand or capacity of alternator
I've been through the alternator hassles - and I've come to Powermaster alternators. They seem to be the best balance of price and quality. Should you want a greater amp capacity, alternator come in frame sizes (e.g. 10si, 12si, etc) thus once you determine what frame fits, you choose your alternator based upon that physical size. Power outputs vary widely, but you'll find that about the biggest you'll get for your GM is in the 200 amp range.
I run a winch and dual air compressors on my H3 - I never run out of power.
Avoid the ebay alternators at all costs and never buy a one-wire when you do a lot of idling (I'd say never, ever a one-wire, but then the trolls would descend... but really, it's so easy to run a resistor and wire to control the alternator, that only the most helpless mechanics would use a one wire)>
I've been through the alternator hassles - and I've come to Powermaster alternators. They seem to be the best balance of price and quality. Should you want a greater amp capacity, alternator come in frame sizes (e.g. 10si, 12si, etc) thus once you determine what frame fits, you choose your alternator based upon that physical size. Power outputs vary widely, but you'll find that about the biggest you'll get for your GM is in the 200 amp range.
I run a winch and dual air compressors on my H3 - I never run out of power.
Avoid the ebay alternators at all costs and never buy a one-wire when you do a lot of idling (I'd say never, ever a one-wire, but then the trolls would descend... but really, it's so easy to run a resistor and wire to control the alternator, that only the most helpless mechanics would use a one wire)>
1stDeuce
Explorer
I wouldn't worry about the plow lights, as they're really not using that much juice. If it's daylight, you can always shut them off too. I really think you've got something wrong with either the battery or the alternator. If you turn on every 12v accessory you have, does the voltage gauge stay around 14, or start dropping as you add lights, heaters, etc? If it won't hold 14v with just the truck accy's, then your alt is tired. Anytime it's not at 14v, you're not really charging much. If your voltage is good until you whack a plow button, and then it falls way off an the plow runs slow, then the battery needs to be replaced. You might also try putting the battery on a charger overnight if it's not that old. A truck is NOT a great charger, though it will maintain a battery fairly well.
If you do add a second battery, use 4ga cable to connect it to your system (Or the OE cables if you can find them) and then run the plow off the 2nd battery. That way voltage at the main battery will dip less when you run the plow. But even with the second battery, you'll still need to let it charge some after you're done plowing or it'll die quickly. If you sometimes don't have time to let the truck run when you're done, you might consider wiring a small battery charger/tender up and just plug it in when you shut the truck down. Even a little HF unit would work better than nothing.
If you do add a second battery, use 4ga cable to connect it to your system (Or the OE cables if you can find them) and then run the plow off the 2nd battery. That way voltage at the main battery will dip less when you run the plow. But even with the second battery, you'll still need to let it charge some after you're done plowing or it'll die quickly. If you sometimes don't have time to let the truck run when you're done, you might consider wiring a small battery charger/tender up and just plug it in when you shut the truck down. Even a little HF unit would work better than nothing.