Lead acid battery inside truck?

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Wow. Nice rant! Very dense. Gonna have to space it out some to reply... (sorry Pete)





The math has nothing to do with whether it is telecomm or golf cart battery, there's no difference in the math.

Told you that you'd end up agreeing with me. :)


I just guessed wrongly that due to the 24 cell statement, which is common to telecomm, that this is where you got it from, but IT DOESN'T MATTER.

Right. Doesn't matter. So why did you bring it up? Your guess wouldn't have been wrong, if you hadn't been focused on something that - according to you - doesn't matter anyway.


Of course the application doesn't matter to the calculation and of course DWH's example calculation is terribly wrong.

There you go again. It *wasn't* MY calculation. It was an example from someone else's page. It was a calculation from GB Industrial Battery. According to their site:

"GB Industrial Battery produces a full line of Industrial Forklift, Locomotive and Solar Batteries and chargers for the most demanding applications. With battery production centrally based in Illinois"


So if you don't like the math - tell THEM. It's THEIR MATH.


The 12 Volt car type batteries we use in this application are not made up of 24 cells, they are made of 6 cells, so your incorrect calculation is 4x wrong, not 2x, as well as being wrong in using the wrong AH determination. Two 6 Volts would still be 12 cells, the Op asked about both.

Again (and again, ad naseum) - it wasn't my calculation. It was an example, and I DID mention that the example was more than what we were talking about. Which you just keep conveniently ignoring.


The 6 Hour discharge rate is wrong

Um...yea...I already knew that. Interesting that you didn't mention it until I pointed it out. Sure you didn't just overlook it the first time around?


DWH's slimy planted traps were noticed by me – my way of stating that was when I replied that it wouldn't explode at 100%,

My slimy traps were noticed by you? I don't believe it. Would you care to point out some of the others? The ones that I haven't come clean and told everyone about already? :) You no doubt must have noticed them.


though DWH stated that he “wasn't ready to accept” that hydrogen was combustible between 4-74% of volume.

That's not what I said. Read it again. I said:

"density of 4% - which assuming your declaration that hydrogen won't burn at a lower density (which I'm not prepared to accept as a given)"


(And I was absolutely correct BTW. Hydrogen WILL burn at a density less than 4%. It depends on several variables.)


Wrong again, but I guess he accepts that now?

Accepts what? That you didn't read what I wrote, misquoted me and got it wrong?


But can you believe anything he says? Maybe that was just another slimy planted trap too-?

Yup. I got your attention focused. :)

And no, it wasn't a trap. All you had to do was pay attention and actually read what I wrote rather than just ignorantly (and arrogantly) dismissing it.


I noted the 6 hour discharge cycle used for the AH rating being wrong but chose to point out only the glaring 24 cell error in his calculation as “one of many”.

A) Sure you did.
B) Again...again...again...it wasn't MY calculation you (expletive deleted). It was AN EXAMPLE CALCULATION.



The youtube video is scary, sure it can happen

So...not sensationalism?


but to think that battery age, charge state, charge voltage, how close it is to the +ve and –ve plates being shorted due to age which cause plates to grow in to each other doesn't matter or is “irrelevant” is nonsense.

It is irrelevant. The only thing that is relevant is "hydrgen present? yes/no".


There is a reason why batteries blow

Actually, there are a lot of reasons why they *can* blow. But we're talking about hydrogen being vented by an open cell flooded battery under normal charging conditions.

All the rest is important, just not important in this context.


investigate and find out why - it just doesn't happen out of the blue for no reason, or else they wouldn't be able to sell them! Like I said - don't use old batteries, swap them out a regular schedule, depending on use or the number of discharge and charge cycles. Some manufacturers provide this data on the datasheet. Lots of things can happen, people don't always do what they are supposed to do or don't know. don't be one of those people. Should we never use jumper cables? Or should we know how to use them, understand the risks, and proceed? Or do we do nothing ourselves, be paranoid that there's electricity in the room, and just turn everything over to a shop to do?

Cant argue with any of that.


I didn't think this was that kind of audience on this forum.

100k+ registered members. More lurkers than that. The audience is of all types. Electricians and engineers are probably out-numbered by people who do think electricity is a magical and dangerous beast.



Apparently the thought is that H2 just stays in a pocket of a vented truck bed waiting for a spark, can collect in a pocket and that this "pocket volume" is the volume to base the combustibility volume % on, as if the H2 is not exposed to the complete volume of the truck bed with the cap on, or that H2 won't diffuse very quickly throughout the whole truck bed.

Yup, that's the thought.


How absurd. Yes it rises and very very quickly disperses.

What? Downward? It has risen and collected in a pocket. Where did it disperse TO? Nowhere - unless something blows it away, it's still there.


Like I said, prevent this by always having a vent – whether that vent is an opening or a fan or whatever.

Here's an idea - vent the battery box to the outside. :)


OK, so for the 6 volt batteries I wrote parallel instead of series, this was an obvious mistake for a 12V app, but again DWH makes the absurd statement that there is no voltage drop across connectors or connecting cables just because they are connected in series.

Oh...you don't even want to get me started on voltage drop. :)


My point was to oversize the connecting cables to minimize any charging voltage difference between two 6 volt batteries.

If they are in series, there is no charging voltage difference between the two batteries.


Man, that must mean I'm a expert poser and a terrible uneducated hack! OK - so I provided facts with formulas, used the words “science” and “math”, and other technical words, provided gassing rates and voltage specs – Damn I guess I was trying to baffle people! Or maybe I thought that there might be people who would be interested in details?

There certainly are.


Sorry, can't stop being an engineer, I thought there might be others on the forum who were interested in such things too.

There certainly are.

But how does it help the OP to muddy up his thread with a bunch of crap that has nothing to do with whether he should vent his battery box? Did he really need to be lectured about specific gravity?

(And, yes, I do realize the irony in what I just said - that I'm also muddying up his thread. But at this point, what the hell. I did try to keep it clean and simple at first.)



Guess I was wrong and didn't think that the people who are not interested would take offense to such thing - really? UFB. I also was wrong when I kept writing “cab” when I actually meant “truck bed”, which was the original posters question. Big difference. So rake me over the coals for all these things, I get how it works now.

I never said anything about cab. Never corrected you on that. Wasn't important.


Other than that I stand by what I said. Don't use a sealed battery box – this can be a cause of a battery explosion if the gas evolved when charging gets trapped inside a small volume box that can reach combustible levels quickly rather than the much larger volume of a truck bed with cap - even with a vent tube, you're one clogged tube away from gas not being able to escape a very low volume sealed box.

Right. No argument there. However, someone did post a recommendation to use a small tube. Which I would have said something about if I hadn't gotten sidetracked. A proper vent on a battery box is usually *at least* 1" diameter - and that's for a single battery.


This is what caused the huge explosion I said I was called in to analyze. A sealed battery box and a charger mistakenly left on equalize, a high voltage charge.

No argument from me. I've never advocated a sealed battery box.


Like I said - Use a vented box in a vented truck bed cap, isn't that the situation the original posted asked about? Don't overcharge, use the right charging voltage for the battery, don't charge a hot battery with the wrong voltage, don't sleep in an enclosed area with a battery on charge.

Doing well so far...


Understand that Hydrogen very quickly disperses and is generated at very small rates

Until here...

"Very quickly disperses" may or may not be true - because "it depends".

And it looks like our definitions of "very small" are not in agreement.


when on charge only, that overcharge is what causes higher gas evolution rates, and even a small vent will insure that combustible levels are not reached.

"Even a small vent"...

Here...I see that SBS Battery has an "online battery venting calcutor":

http://www.sbsbattery.com/products-...ions/battery-room-ventilation-calculator.html


Just plug in the numbers and let it run through the formula (beware the "gotcha" - it uses the 6 hour rate).

Even plugging in the most conservative numbers I can think of, it still requires a 1.5 cfm fan and a total air exchange every 163 minutes to achieve what they say is "the industry standard" of 1%.

I see they also say:

"The concentration of hydrogen in the air should be kept below 1% to reduce risk of explosion."

But hell, they've only been in the business 100 years - what do they know about it?


But there's obviously no room for any one else but the glorious all knowing trap setting DWH on this subject, my mistake.

Aww, there's that snotty twit I've come to know and love. So cute!


What a bunch of stupid BS to come from trying to help out! Sorry if the information I provided offends your long held beliefs.

Nope, you haven't yet offended my long held beliefs. You'll have to try harder (and be more accurate).


I was just trying to allay fears the original poster had which I thought was about keeping a battery in his truck bed and whether he could safely sleep back there safely.

Oh...so that's why you dumped a bunch of techno-babble on the new guy's head? I'm sure this part here totally allayed his fears:

"Lower charging voltage for temperatures over 77F,/25C higher charging voltage for temperatures below 77F/25C. It depends on the specific Gravity of the battery electrolyte but generally the charging voltage is determined at 2.25 volts +/- 5mV per degree F per "cell" above or below 77F or 3mV per degree C above or below 25C per "cell"."

Tell me again how I'M the one who is acting like he's "king of all battery knowledge"...


We should all never go in to Walmart where they have batteries on the shelves - too unsafe. Geez.

Batteries on the shelf aren't a problem - they aren't being charged. (Well, maybe they actually are all hooked up to a constant charge at Walmart. I wouldn't know, I don't shop at Walmart.)



EDIT: And I think you should note, that this reply to your rant, PROVES that I actually do take the time to read - and think about - what you write. If only you had done me the same courtesy, this whole clusterf**k could have been avoided.
 
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Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Just how many cc's of hydrogen per minute is a car battery capable of producing? In something the size of a van interior, how many hours of constant generation would it take to achieve that percentage? And if there is the tiniest crack or vent near the top of the doors or roof, wouldn't the hydrogen all escape much faster than it can possible be generated?

Where is Mythbusters when you need them? I wonder if they ever did this one?

The problem is the batteries generate H and hold onto it, not vent it safely.

I don't have time to read this entire thread. But I'll add my 2 cents of experience:
-I've seen a few batteries explode. And I've cleaned up hundreds of exploded lead acid batteries.
-deep cycling and/or overcharging charging can cause a battery to burn off it's water level. Or just a crack and leak can drain out the electrolyte.

- Hydrogen in the top of the battery, then as soon as the plates are exposed out of the electrolyte, spark, KABOOM. F'n acid everywhere. Eating pump controller panels, and etching the sealant off of concrete. It's a mess. I've even seen a g34 size Interstate battery blow off a housing door. (steel about as strong as a normal craftsman tool box)

-the explosion is forceful enough to hurt you badly. The acid isn't as bad as I thought, but it's still acid.
-if you use a lead acid battery ANYWHERE near yourself or others you love, you MUST be able to routinely check fluid level. Maint free or not. Good fluid level = no boom.

-Caterpillar sealed, and Interstate sealed MF batteries make up 80% of the exploded batteries I've seen!
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
I'm just gonna throw this out there one more time.

If you want to use a standard flooded battery, use a SEALED BATTERY BOX with a 3/16-1/4" vent tube that extends outside of the box area. Run the vent tube from near the top of the battery box to outside (generally just drilling a hole beside the box and going straight down will be sufficient.

Why are we overcomplicating this with offgassing rates and everything? Congratulations you all have a big penis and have all won all the internet points. That being said, it's very easy to make a lead-acid battery explode. Simply disconnecting it from the charger incorrectly in your garage can be sufficient. It's not sensationalism. You guys can be electrical engineers or whatever you want. I'm a licensed mechanic. I work on cars all day. I have been trained to work on 12v systems, and "motive power batteries" -whatever the hell that's supposed to mean.

If you're that worried: Use a sealed battery. If you're not that worried, the suggestion I made above will work just fine. Don't believe me? Go pull the battery on a GMC Acadia. or a VW Tourag. Or any other number of vehicles that have the battery INSIDE the cabin.

Sealed won't help.

Niether will a nice vented box to contain the explosion or to vent H, that doesn't get vented from the battery anyways. I'm not concerned about H floating around in a car. I'm concerned about H concentrated and contained in a box, or in the battery. Acid is very thin, and bounces amazingly well. When a battery goes up it'll launch acid every where.

A G31 sized battery in a standard plastic marine battery box, stuffed under the seat of a school bus and overcharged until explosion, will send plastic chunks and acid to every corner of said bus. That's how much ground this mess can cover. (I'm thinking of a G31 battery explosion I had to clean up inside the housing of a MTU4000, 2000kw generator housing, about the size of a bus)
 

Red Monty

Ancient Adventurer
Need proper battery box venting information

I've read all the posts here about the need for venting. I am right at this point of construction in the back of my LWB first gen. Montero, so any info would be appreciated.

My plan was to use a standard common plastic Noco battery box big enough for up to a size 31 battery. I haven't bought the battery yet but it will be an AGM type, probably a size 27 or 31 depending on availability and price in this region. I was going to either try it seal the top of the Noco box with a rubber gasket or build a wooden top with a seal against the lower Noco box. Then the plan was to come out of either top design with a 1-1/2 ' dia. ribbed flexible hose slanted up slightly to a vent on the outside of the vehicle past the rear door. Then to have another hose coming from a hole in the floor going up to the
top of, and going into, the battery box on it's other end, ending about an inch off the bottom inside of the battery box. The thought was this would allow a cross flow of air and hydrogen through the discharge hose to the outside.

What I'm not sure of is, the effect on this type of venting when driving? Or maybe this is just over kill. But, at night I will be sleeping right over the top of this arrangement until I reach my destination, so I need to have confidence in the setup. My Engel Refrigerator is next to me and the battery, and could contribute perhaps a startup arc in a contact maybe. Also after reaching the destination the vehicle will be used as a base camp. The house battery will be charged by a battery charger powered by a Honda generator outside, or a solar panel. The Stanley Charger is of the latest type and rated for an initial charge rate of 15 amps and AGM type batteries.

Any thoughts?

George
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Any thoughts?

George

AGMs are VRLA (sealed). VRLA batteries don't vent unless overcharged. Technically, all lead-acid batteries should be in a vented enclosure - but in the real world, you don't really have to worry about it with an AGM - UNLESS it gets overcharged. So just about any venting scheme you come up with would be fine since it'll probably never get used anyway, unlike the venting needed for a non-sealed battery which vents whenever it is being charged. What you've described is fine.


With a decent solar charge controller with temp compensation, the solar won't overcharge the battery unless the charge controller goes bad. So again, the box venting won't be needed unless the charger fails.


If the Stanley 15a battery charger you are talking about is the BC1509 - I have that same charger. I like it enough that I also have the smaller 6a version which I carry in my truck as a backup (the 15a stays in the garage). It's made by Baccus Global, and incidentally, they also make one under the Black & Decker brand that has the exact same guts in a different plastic case. It's a damned good charger for the money and it normally won't overcharge a battery.

BUT

I personally don't trust it enough that I'd let it charge a battery WHILE I happened to be sleeping in the same space as that battery. Run the genny and charge the battery while you're awake, but not while you are sleeping in the compartment and no worries, but if the electronics of the charger failed and it overcharged the battery, it could conceivably cause even a VRLA AGM to vent.

WHY don't I trust it enough? I bought the 15a unit at Lowe's. Around a year later when I went to check prices for the 6a unit at Lowe's, I couldn't find it on the web site. I called them and they don't carry the Stanley chargers anymore (nor the Black & Decker). Scuttlebutt says they stopped carrying them due to excessive returns.

IF that's true, it's not a good sign. Personally, I doubt it. I would bet it had more to do with corporate contract negotiations, but who knows.

It's a good charger and I haven't had any problems with either of mine, but I would simply not trust it far enough to let it charge a battery (any battery, even an AGM) next to my head while I'm sleeping. Hell...for that matter I doubt I'd trust any charger enough for that.
 

Red Monty

Ancient Adventurer
The Stanley Charger is a BC15BS. It looks the part. It has a thermo plastic rubber armored case and metal lift handles on the front. it can be set on end (important when you don't have much space) or set horizontally. So Here's hopeing it turns out a winner. I did get the extended warrantee!

I would never be charging my house battery while sleeping over it! Reminds me of my father in law sleeping over torpedo's in the sub during the war!!

George
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Basically the same unit. Has the same control buttons, but a slightly different display. Looks just like the B&D:

http://www.blackanddecker12volt.com/#!bc15bd/cbg8

I found the "charge" button is more or less superfluous. With mine, you can just plug it in and wait a minute and it will kick into bulk stage on its own. The instructions for mine don't mention that - they make it seem like you must push that button.

I also note that the BC1509 on Amazon, now says it can't be shipped to CA or OR, so maybe there's an indicator of why it's not on the Shelf at my local Lowe's any more (and the scuttlebutt about returns may be wrong).

I tested the de-sulfation on an old thrashed battery I had laying around - it's not a magic bullet, but it did make a difference.

It also reduces its output if the input voltage is low, so using a really long extension cord can result in less amps going to the battery.
 

Arclight

SAR guy
For my camper, I won't go with any wet cell lead acid. I need to be 100% sure I don't have any acid fumes in the compartment I keep nylon climbing ropes, slings, harnesses, etc.

Arclight
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
For all of dwh's 'scientificness', he seems to lack a sense of the wide range between possible and probable.

Battery will be fine. And is in fact better off if it ISN'T sealed up tight in a box. Let that trivial amount of hydrogen disperse. But give the battery some shelter anyway to prevent incidental damage or shorting. A 'sealed' type battery would be better, on general principles.

Batteries were in the passenger compartment on several types of vehicles for many decades, without the sort of Hindenburg nightmare dwh is trying to invoke. In fact the 2001 Buick LeSabre has the battery under the back seat. The Horror.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
For all of dwh's 'scientificness', he seems to lack a sense of the wide range between possible and probable.

Battery will be fine. And is in fact better off if it ISN'T sealed up tight in a box.

Nice.

Too bad you missed that part about me NOT advocating a sealed box.

If you're going to rag on me that's fine, but it would carry more weight if you weren't ragging on me for some bullsh!t that you just made up.


Batteries were in the passenger compartment on several types of vehicles for many decades, without the sort of Hindenburg nightmare dwh is trying to invoke.

Dude...what in the holy HELL are you talking about?

Allow me to reiterate the parts that you obviously missed...

Hydrogen burns.

Vented batteries can and do explode.

So with a vented battery, vent it to the outside.


Next time, try reading what I actually wrote before you publicly give yourself a woody with your own hyperbole.



In fact the 2001 Buick LeSabre has the battery under the back seat. The Horror.

So did my '67 Bug. Hell, back then I smoked cigarettes and smoked in that car a bunch of times...while running the 2/60 air conditioning.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
(shrug) for all your pedantry and determination, there are also legions of car audio enthusiasts rigging extra batteries in passenger compartments and trunks, coupled with highly energetic electrical systems and current flows, yet there's a dearth of fireballs.

You are correct in all your 'scientific' particulars and utterly wrong in your conclusions. Massive empirical evidence contradicts your theories of demise. One of the core precepts of 'the scientific method' which you seem to strive to emulate is that you test your theory and when it fails to hold up against real world observations you DISCARD your theory and attempt to come up with a new one that better fits the observable conditions. Messy wet unsealed lead-acid batteries have been in vehicles for decades without hydrogen explosions plaguing the populace. Modern sealed batteries vent FAR few gases and are in fact designed to foster the recombination of gases generated during power generation and current flow. AND to retain higher pressures during the charging cycle to encourage that recombination / mitigation. As such they vent almost nothing at all. The likelihood of your scenario of generation, venting, accumulation and undisturbed accretion and THEN an ignition source is vanishingly small, so small as to be nigh impossible and certainly improbable. It's a waste of time to even give it further attention.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
(shrug) for all your pedantry and determination, there are also legions of car audio enthusiasts rigging extra batteries in passenger compartments and trunks, coupled with highly energetic electrical systems and current flows, yet there's a dearth of fireballs.

You are correct in all your 'scientific' particulars and utterly wrong in your conclusions. Massive empirical evidence contradicts your theories of demise. One of the core precepts of 'the scientific method' which you seem to strive to emulate is that you test your theory and when it fails to hold up against real world observations you DISCARD your theory and attempt to come up with a new one that better fits the observable conditions. Messy wet unsealed lead-acid batteries have been in vehicles for decades without hydrogen explosions plaguing the populace. Modern sealed batteries vent FAR few gases and are in fact designed to foster the recombination of gases generated during power generation and current flow. AND to retain higher pressures during the charging cycle to encourage that recombination / mitigation. As such they vent almost nothing at all. The likelihood of your scenario of generation, venting, accumulation and undisturbed accretion and THEN an ignition source is vanishingly small, so small as to be nigh impossible and certainly improbable. It's a waste of time to even give it further attention.


Huh.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straw_man

"A straw man is a common reference argument and is an informal fallacy based on false representation of an opponent's argument."

Feel free to quote my "theories of demise" upon which you are basing your personal attack on me.

Pretty sure that's not going to happen since you just pulled it out of YourAss.
 

redneck44

Adventurer
Just to put it in perspective, Land rover have been putting batteries in the cab in an unvented box (not exactly gas tight though) under the seat for quite a few years.
Despite their many faults I've not heard of any blowing up because of it (waiting for the tales of hundreds of exploding landies).

Carry on.......
 

Cole

Expedition Leader
Old air cooled VWs had their batteries under the back seats. .

21 MILLION cars produced From 1938-2003 probably wasn't a large enough sample size over a long enough period to determine if they would explode with a battery inside the cabin. :coffee drink: Clearly all of the owners were very caution to properly vent and cool the batteries:sombrero: Especially in all those race versions of the car!

Of course we should probably include all those Camper buses/Vanagons and Eurovans that have batteries inside, most right under the bed!!! 60 years of VW campers can't be all wrong!:sombrero:





Batteries were in the passenger compartment on several types of vehicles for many decades, without the sort of Hindenburg nightmare dwh is trying to invoke. In fact the 2001 Buick LeSabre has the battery under the back seat. The Horror.

"were" is only half the story here....."ARE currently" is probably more accurate. Along with the beetle above there are still hundreds of cars that put the battery inside the passenger compartment. I actually own FOUR types of modern cars that come with the battery inside the passenger space. Three of those put it right under the driver/passenger in unsealed boxes. (All Porsche, VW and Mercedes FWIW)

Just to put it in perspective, Land rover have been putting batteries in the cab in an unvented box (not exactly gas tight though) under the seat for quite a few years.
Despite their many faults I've not heard of any blowing up because of it (waiting for the tales of hundreds of exploding landies).

Carry on.......

Yup, another example of this not *really* being a huge problem.


It's always interesting to me that there are all sorts of design engineers that were talented enough to get jobs designing these cars, but every guy on an internet forum thinks they know more.

Its also interesting that cars without the battery inside also don't exactly hide it away from consumer access. Open nearly any hood and its staring you right in the face. If it were so prone to explosion then you would think they would be hidden away better in case of a random spark from the hood latch, trapped gases up against the hood, etc.
 
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