Anasazi Adventure in SE Utah

DVD

Adventurer
We met a couple friends from Utah in the southeast corner the state (Cedar Mesa / Grand Gulch area) for 4 days of hiking and exploring to find Anasazi ruins and see the natural landscape. The trip went well, with beautiful scenery, incredible ruins that you could explore by yourself, ancient art, good hiking, and some fun four-wheel-drive trails.

This was actually a continuation of a trip from a couple years ago, when we intended to spend a few days in the area on the way back from Canyonlands Maze District but had to cut the Cedar Mesa stay to a single day due to some family events. So it was great to fulfill longstanding plans.

Day 1.
We met our friends as planned, and found a nice campsite at the north end of Comb Wash trail.

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Camp set for the start of a great adventure

After setting up camp, we had a little time to explore around camp and found some ruins at Lower Mule Canyon. It was almost like catching a fish on your first cast; we were gabbing at the start of a hike and scanned the ridge and, whoa, ruins right away.

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Ruins very near our campsite - in Lower Mule Canyon

Most of the planning went well, but the weather threw us a bit of a curve: a cold front moved through, and night-time lows were in the low 20s - maybe even lower. The second morning we checked the temperature, and it was 22 deg at 8 a.m. We had packed extra blankets, but at those temps, your head gets cold, pillows get cold, so if you rearrange at all, your head feels like it's on a block of ice instead of a soft, warm pillow. My wife has one of those fitbit things that tracks sleeping patterns, and she said it was like a like a seismograph those first 2 nights. In the morning, the 7 gal water container was mostly frozen.

But enough whining; it was all part of the adventure.

Day 2.
This was our long hike day. With 2 vehicles, we left one at the Bullett Canyon trailhead, then proceeded to Sheik's Canyon to do a canyon-to-canyon hike starting at Sheik's and exiting at Bullett.

This turned out to be a good 12 mile hike, with some fairly difficult sections and lots of sightseeing, so it was a long day. Sheik's Canyon is lesser traveled canyon, and we got off trail a little bit a couple times, retraced our path a couple times, but as long as you keep heading down-canyon, you're fine.

The first highlight was the Yellow House ruins.

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Yellow House ruins, Sheik's Canyon

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Yellow House ruins, incredible that the roof is in such great shape, right down to the lashings

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A little corn cob left from Anasazi


There were many scenic, interesting hiking sections.

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Big, wide, smooth section of sliprock wash in Sheik's Canyon - looks like a ski slope

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Strong women

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For perspective, those are the 2 angled boulders Laurie and Pam were holding up

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Steep part of the Shiek's Canyon trail

Further down the canyon, we came to the Green Mask ruins and art panel. This and Moon House were the highlights of the entire trip for me. Much of the panel is inaccessible (too high), so we took turns viewing it through the binoculars while eating lunch. There are literally hundreds of pictographs and petroglyphs, spanning millenia (so they say). And the Green Mask was certainly eerie, looking like a clown with sworls of long red hair and green stripes across the face. One bit of research I read surmised that the painting correlated with an actual scalp and mask that was found (currently in some museum) with similar colors that might have been carried into battle.

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Green Mask panel (need zoom lens to do it justice)

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Panorama of confluence of Sheik's Canyon and Grand Gulch

Returning up Bullett Canyon, we found a couple more impressive ruins.

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Pictographs above Jailhouse ruins (a 2-story ruin)

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Window that gives Jailhouse ruin its name

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Perfect Kiva, a bit further up Bullett Canyon

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This ladder is the one inauthentic remnant - but appreciated for allowing access to kiva interior

And as we picked up the vehicle from the starting trailhead at Sheiks Canyon, we met MPH of Expo Forum fame. I noticed the nicely outfitted rig, but the area is lousy with those. This one seemed like it was well used. I asked if he ever wrote about his adventures, and found out that it's MPH. Small world.

With all the hiking and excursions to check out the ruins, it was a long and tiring day. We got back to camp just before dark and enjoyed a great camp dinner (chili and garlic bread) and celebrated with a few beers around the campfire. We certainly employed that trick of shoveling out a small pile of embers to place under the chairs.

Day 3.
This was a less ambitious day. There were some assorted blisters, and we were all generally sore and tired. We stopped in at the Kane Ranger Station and acquired passes to access the Moon House ruins. Due to the delicate nature of the paintings, only 20 people per day are allowed to access the site. This is the only site with those restrictions. The entire area is so remote that we only ran into a handful of people the entire 4 days, but it was nice to be the only ones at this and other sites. The hike was only a mile or so, but it was a rim-to-rim canyon crossing nonetheless. The ruins didn't disappoint.

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Narrow spot between boulders with Moon House above

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Within the entry, there is a corridor and a number of interior rooms

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Pictograph on wall to one of the interior rooms, off the corridor

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Paintings on the wall of the Moon room (note reverse image of full moon)

The Moon House ruins are 8 miles in on a 4WD trail (Snowflat trail), which continued to Comb Wash, so we bounced and jostled on this trail to get back to camp. As another historical note, this trail was used by Mormon pioneers back in the day.

We didn't wimp out because of cold, but when planning this couples trip, we had previously made reservations to spend a couple nights at Valley of the Gods Bed and Breakfast, which is in the middle of nowhere (which happened to be where we were), so we broke camp and headed south on Utah 261, down Moki Dugway, to the B&B located almost directly at the bottom of Moki Dugway.

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Switchbacks on Moki Dugway

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After 2 freezing nights camping, we stayed at Valley of the Gods B&B for the 3rd and 4th nights

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Sunset view for the front porch of the B&B

Continued in next post
 

DVD

Adventurer
Day 4.
When we were in this area previously, we wanted to explore the Citadel, which is a set of ruins located on a promontory at the end of the land bridge. We didn't have much time, and we got to the peninsula, but couldn't find the path to get to the correct level of canyon to cross the land bridge. This time we set out early, with better maps and good directions. The proprietors of the B&B were formerly "Site Stewards" for the Citadel, so we departed with optimism that we would get across the isthmus to the ruins.

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The Citadel is at the end of the promontory - what a great defensive place to live

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There were a few harrowing moments, traversing the ledges with steep drop-offs to get to the Citadel

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On the edge of the ledge

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Peering into Citadel rooms

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Potsherds at the Citadel

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Nice wood and twine

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Panorama of Citadel - see the face?

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Refreshment after Citadel hike

We still had some time to explore after the Citadel, so we checked out the 7 Towers ruins.

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One of the more intact towers

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Nice view of the canyon through the window, and another wood lintel

Day 5.
On the way back home, we made a little side trip to Goosenecks Park, on the San Juan river. As a fitting end to the trip, it was incredible and more impressive than I thought it would be.

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Panorama of Goosenecks on the San Juan

Here's a G+ album with more photos.
 

mph

Expedition Leader
Great report...Glad you found the Citadel. BTW...we talked to you guys at the top of Shieks. Looks like you had a stellar trip!!!
 

DVD

Adventurer
Thanks for the positive feedback. I know I always search for key words on this site when planning a trip, and I've found these reports useful, so I like to contribute back to the community. But it's also true that writing about the trip prolongs the excitement and cements the memories.
MPH, that was a great chance encounter at a remote canyon in Utah, but what better place to meet? Sounded like a great adventure for you - hope it wasn't too cold on the mesa. I was actually thinking about camping there, but with the cold weather, we decided to camp at a lower elevation.
 

mph

Expedition Leader
Yeah...always crazy fun to meet others in the wilds! You got to see some of the "goods" Cedar Mesa has to offer! That area is crazy awesome...Yep, the weather on was cooler but stellar. Love that area to camp. Slickrock is the bomb:) Happy Trails!

BTW...Looks like you have a nicely equipped LR3




Thanks for the positive feedback. I know I always search for key words on this site when planning a trip, and I've found these reports useful, so I like to contribute back to the community. But it's also true that writing about the trip prolongs the excitement and cements the memories.
MPH, that was a great chance encounter at a remote canyon in Utah, but what better place to meet? Sounded like a great adventure for you - hope it wasn't too cold on the mesa. I was actually thinking about camping there, but with the cold weather, we decided to camp at a lower elevation.
 

unkamonkey

Explorer
Good work finding the ruins there in Sheiks flat. We have watched many sunsets from there. Perhaps a beer or 2 as well. We left all of the corncobs there as we should have done. There is some Teepee rings on the ridge above if you get out that way. About 25 years ago my brother and wife, neighbor and his wife spent 4 days hiking Grand Gulch. Started at Sheiks flat and had the CJ7 parked at Sunset rock with the cooler packed with ice and beer. It would have been a good show watching Mike running down the road trying to get the key out of the little pocket on his boot. Floating ice and a cooler full of beer when they got there. I met them at Lake Powell the next day. I was running a bit late, Didn't know my old '68 Volvo would still run over 100 MPH. They knew it was me when I pulled into the parking lot, distinctive exhaust sound. When I was leaving the thermometer in the car read 128 deg.
We are planning a trip out there this spring or summer.
 

SmoothLC

Explorer
Really nice report.
There are so many places to explore down there on CM.
Went through all your pictures DVD on G+.
The "detailed" photos are amazing - showing the twine wrapped around the wood, etc.
 

Doc Foster

Adventurer
Thanks for sharing. My wife and I checked out the Citadel and many other ruins the 2 weeks we spent in that area last summer - so much to see and explore - truly fantastic area.
 

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