1993 Starcraft Roadmaster 850. Finally out camping.

[jrod420]

I will get some pictures up tonight illustrating the situation. I have a bad feeling about the chance for success with this repair. The front of the roof section has a small gap between the tin roof and the aluminum flashing that runs around the roof portion of the camper. Although there is no sign of water intrusion into the interior roof area the plywood and fiberglass that is directly underneath the tin is rotted bad. The front marker lights have failed because of green death in the ground wiring and the fact that the screws have been rusted into small nubs. All screws have been reduced to 1/4 inch nubs with no threads left, just rusty nubs. Anyway, enough about the nubs.

The affected wood is the 8 inches of vertical lumber that makes up the front panel of the roof portion. The water damage is substantial as i can remove the wood with my fingers as it falls apart with little effort. I am going to let the lumber dry out so I can cut it out of the roof and make a template. Hopefully this is the right way to do the repair.

I am posting because I am sure someone has done this repair before because this seems like it could be a common problem with some older popups that have not been properly maintained/cleaned.

This is depressing because I have done a major repair to a overhead camper before and It was labour intensive and in the end it still leaked. Probably because of my lack of expertise dealing with rv components, tin, flashings, those things.

Should I look for a complete replacement roof?

I really should've been patient and got the fwc shell I wanted but this starcraft was 2500 bucks and up here they go for 5000.00 in the same rough shape. Hard to find a fwc here.

Kinda depressed about this thing.

 

[eblau]

I was in the same situation last year, bought a 97 starcraft impulsively and almost immediately regretted it. The soft sides were new as was the lifting mechanism and fridge but it was so rotted in a number of crucial places it just wasn't worth the hassle even as a winter project. Both rear sections where the jacks mounted were rotted as was the cabover on the passenger side. I did like the dinette seating in it as well as the furnace and AC but I found a FWC Grandby shortly after selling the Starcraft and I couldn't be happier. Just my two cents seeing as I was literally in the same boat you were in.

 

[jrod420]

The structure of the camper is great. The lift works very well, as does the fridge, stove, furnace, inverter. It is very clean inside and the exterior is good. The jacks and mounts are flawless, jack extensions for lifted trucks.The canvas needs to be replaced in some areas as there is some small tears and it looks threadbare in other areas. My local canvas shop is stoked to take a look at it and see what they can do as this would be their first pop up truck camper re-canvas job. The only issue is this roof portion. Because there is mold present in the lumber I cannot patch and re-sell. I couldn't tell anyone to enjoy sleeping in there new molding rotting camper. I can purchase another camper but I couldn't stick someone with this as i have been stuck. I will take some really good pictures after work and see what suggestions I get. I have to do the repair somehow in order to sleep well if I were to re sell it.

I would love to find a FWC or AC near here southern Alberta, Canada, but they just are not common. I would like the shell that fits the 8' bx, but would take a fully equipped unit as well. Most common pop up here are older Alaskan's and they are way too heavy for a lifted rig towing quads deep into the mountains. Me and the wife like to camp away from the masses.

Looking for FWC camper, or AC camper for sale that could be delivered to Lethbridge Alberta. I cannot pickup in the states. I should look in the classifieds on the forum right....

just typing....

thanks for the reply eblau

 

[ripperj]

Not sure what your skill set is, but after spending the last year extending my Alaskan popup roof 2' and scratch build a whole new lower section, I wouldn't hesitate to build a whole new roof. There is not much to them, typically a wood/foam structure covered in aluminum. I was able to get a 9' x 14' aluminum roof shipped from CA to CT, wasn't cheap, I think around 300 for the shipping alone. But if the lower section is as nice as you say, it would be worth the time and effort.

Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk 2

 

[jrod420]

Im a journeyman auto tech, and partsman. A half assed carpenter, welder, ditch digger, elecrician, and whatever else I need to be. I have really thought about removing the entire roof assembly and seeing what is involved in a complete rebuild and reskin. I looked at eblau's granby build and really don't mind the look of the top on that fwc. And the rigid fogs looking good too.

I don't know if a complete rebuild is necessary but it would bring peace of mind. Ah well. Im going to post some good pics tonight after work. Its only 2.30 here.

Thanks for the input so far. Helps me stay positive about the possible rebuild. Sheesh. I kinda wanna knock it off my truck into the front yard of the guy I bought it from. I wont, but sure feel like thats a kickass solution. But then im out my money and no camper. LOL!

 

[jrod420]

This is the front of the roof, between the lumber and the white aluminum flashing that runs around the lower perimeter of the roof. Ewwwwwww.... Discovered this after closer inspection of a patch job done by a PO. Ewwwwwwww.... PO.

It is like this the entire length of the front of the camper roof. Yes that's some sweet mold n ****.

No damage to lower half of bunk opening.:ylsmoke:




This pic is from some damage to the drivers rear of the roof. I start the latching process here and work my way around, it lines up ok latch wise however there is a gap above the door that is bigger that I would like.

The rest of the camper is sound. How easy is it to remove the roof on these things?

 

[Galvi5]

I will reiterate your reaction of "EWWWWWW!" How many different kinds of mold do you have there? Wish I could help on the roof, but EWWWWW!

 

[jrod420]

Ewwwww is right. I am just waiting for it to dry out completely before I go cutting anything out. I am going to see if I can inject wood glue into the rotted cavities and clamp them back to the original 3/4 inch width to fit the flashing. The wood glue would be drill-able so hopefully I can re-attach the aluminum flashing that way. I hate mold. There is some green and white and blue and black. Should dry out ok tho.

 

[brian90744]

Time to rebuild roof, not saving rot.

Check out Thread: Scoutman's 'new' Starcraft Pine Mtn on Dodge 3500, seems he had the same roof problem. Remove the roof and copy and rebuild new. just my FYI=brian

 

[jrod420]

Brian, thanks for the link to scoutmans build. That illustrates the front inside of roof quite well. Glad I dont have the fiberglass setup, seems pricey to rebuild. I have the tin roof so repair should be easier. My attention to detail is mostly for function and less for looks as you can see by my multi-colored grey, tan, white pickup. Lol! I hope to get at it this weekend as long as the weather stays nice!

 

[Scoutman]

Y'all called? :sombrero: Any questions ask away and I'll answer as best I can.

To remove the roof on mine it looks like there should be a bolt at the top of each lift rod, a few electrical wires (mine come up the pass side) and then detach the canvas. If the walls are truely in good solid shape I'd say just rebuild the roof and use it till you find the FWC you really want. Since you have an aluminum roof some things will be easier than what I had to go through with the fiberglass. Good luck.

 

[jrod420]

Right on Scoutman. Glad to hear from you. You will be on my quick msg list as I go through this camper. My heart sunk when I saw that mold and rot. I have done this once before with a 12' overhead that leaked and still leaked after a lenghtly repair. After going through your thread my spirits are lifted and I really appreciate all your pictures and attention to details. Im not looking forward to scraping the butyl off of everything but whatcha gonna do? I like the acetone idea, should work good.
I think I will just fix the front and use it this season and then get to fixing the rear damage next season.

I will post some pics of the difference between tin and fiberglass roof when i get it peeled back a little more. The tin roof is two pieces with a trim/screw strip down the middle. Man I hope the rain stays away for the weekend. I really want to get at this thing. Also, the canvas goes to the shop for an estimate next week, I hope its going to be reasonable. I am the cheapest...or I just have a tough time with the prices of things these days...

 

[jrod420]

couple more pics

So I decided to remove the roof completly so that i can work on it at hip level. I removed the roof myself, I do not recommend this. It was touch n go. Also, when unbolting the roof from the lift mechanism I forgot about the spring loaded assist. When the last bolt came out and freed the mechanism to spin, It smashed the wrench outta my hand, tried to smash my thumb off my hand, and generally wasn't the most awesome feeling. So, now I gotta ask, anyone else do this? What is the procedure to re wind that lift assist? Do I have to drill and tap some set screws in there to hold it after I wind it, or is there a technique? How many winds?

 

[kerry]

I'm impressed you got it off yourself. I assumed that wasn't possible. Curious as to how to rewind the spring also. I'd be inclined to seal that central seam pretty seriously, using either epoxy and fiberglass or maybe an Eternabond strip. I used Eternabond on mine. It has three seams in the opposite direction and they leaked.

 

[brian90744]

I also recommend Eternabond tape, remove the sealant around the roof vent and reseal with Eternabond tape & seal the center of the roof. I used it on my 28' Airsteam =no leaks.
Get some help to install the roof. Good luck=brian