What mods???

Oobray

Adventurer
Hey Guys... I've got the vehicle in my sig. My version of "off road" certainly isn't hardcore. I'm interested in getting up and through the really rough forest service roads in eastern Oklahoma to hunt while pulling my nearly 5k lb "off road" pop up trailer. My biggest concern is getting to a spot where there's a large rut, or other obstruction that the trailers has to go over (maybe a steep hill) and the truck not being able to pull the camper through it. I've got plenty of power but I'm wondering if lockers should be in my future mod list. Again, no hard core off-roading but turning a 29' trailer around on a washed out dirt road won't be easy if I can't make it.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Pulling any kind of long trailer down forest service roads would be something I'd avoid at all costs if possible. Heck even a hard-sided slide-in camper in the bed of a pickup can get pretty interesting at times, although with those it's usually the height that becomes a concern, not the length. Regardless, yes, lockers can and will make a world of difference. If you have open differentials both front and rear right now, you essentially have 2-wheel drive, just each wheel is on a different axle - get in a mucky enough spot and it's the same as having a 2wd with a limited slip or locker, not going much of anywhere.

Take a look at the list of RPO codes in your truck, it may be in the glove box but we've seen them on the door jambs as well - if you see a "G80" there that's the factory "locker" in the rear axle (it's in "" because some are not actual lockers but limited slips instead, but either way it's not an open differential) and thus you're good to go with it as long as it works properly. That leaves you with just one locker to buy, for the front axle. I'd go with either a Torsen-type gear-driven limited slip differential, or a full-manual locker like OX or ARB - we have your regular limited-slip diffs in two front axles and the Jeep one can be interesting to drive in winter conditions (the truck is heavy enough to where it doesn't care).
 

Wilbah

Adventurer
I agree with underdrive....here's how I see it....just 4WD provides 2WD (in mucky stuff) as he said....a rear locker increases your traction/power by 50% (3 wheels driving instead of 2)....add the front locker and you've doubled your drive power (4 wheels over 2). Good luck.
 

yarden

Observer
Limited Slip in the rear and Locker in the front is a pretty common configuration in Australia and should serve you well. If you don't have LS in the rear... then get a rear locker at the very least if you don't want to put an LS in the rear and also a locker in the front.

Eaton, ARB, OX should serve you well.
 

Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
Is that your first idea as to mods? If that trailer is stock (advertised as the "off road" model) might start on the trailer first. The 29' travel trailers I've seen in our area that say "off road", they really mean pulling off the pavement at the campground into a gravel pad. :)
 

Root Moose

Expedition Leader
Get out there and use the equipment.

You may find that the truck is fine but the trailer needs help.

Don't spend any money till you find an issue that can be solved by spending money.

Everyone likes a modd'ed truck but the reality of living with one sometimes does not match the romance of the idea.

If you do mods... do simple stuff... OEM style boosting the suspension with different springs or turning the t-bars or whatever is appropriate to your truck, good tires just a touch larger than stock, skid plates where they need to be. Simple stuff that doesn't cost a lot or "ruin" the truck.

HTH
 

underdrive

jackwagon
IMHO diffs are a great upgrade on ANY truck, regardless of lift and such. Lifts and what not does not get you unstuck, or prevent you from getting stuck in the first place. Good diffs will pull you thru places where you could be in trouble at without them, especially with a trailer. I'd do diffs well before I touch suspension. Unless he's hauling a slide-in camper, those pretty much require rear suspension work. But he's pulling, not hauling, so altering the factory suspension should not be high on his priority list...
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
2002_gmc_yukon_xl_blue_99032091654259367.jpg


Selectable locker in the rear. I recommend NO locker in the front.
Cooper STT's.
Tire Chains (HD square link ladder)
Recovery gear. Jacks. Shovel. Wood. Maxtrax.
Rear air springs to help the little truck with the big trailer.
Bilstein 5100's.

Get the trailer up and level if it's adjustable. I use a really long 14" shank on my receiver. Buyers Pintle mount. 12" lift, 4" drop. Bolt on Pintle ball. Sounds like a ton of trailer for a 1500.
 

underdrive

jackwagon
I recommend NO locker in the front.
Out of curiosity, why is that? Auto-locker of any kind is a big no-no in my book as well, but why not a selectable? Especially since you have one in the rear already, why do you choose to recommend against one in the front as well.

Where we're coming from is a 4-ton (empty) nose-heavy DRW diesel. Rear has a factory limited-slip, front was open. On many many occasions we were stopped dead in our tracks because the rear axle lost traction due to too much tire and not enough weight and the front couldn't pulls us thru cause one of the wheels found the one wet/soft/slippery spot in the whole area. So jump out the cab with truck still in gear, and sure enough one front wheel and all rears are turning, but truck just sits there. In a spot where it should have no problem going thru, if only there was a bit more weight on the rear axle - but there isn't, what we have instead is a big anchor in the from of a trailer hanging off the bumper. Gooseneck not a problem, 5th wheel not a problem, bumper pull forget it she's getting stuck. Dropped a factory Dana Trac-Lok in the front, problem solved. Would have gone selectable if it was in the budget, but at the time it simply wasn't. So far so good, but like I said, truck is very nose-heavy, so it doesn't try to understeer like a lighter vehicle would. Which would be something easily avoided with a selectable locker - run her open good 90% of the time, lock her up when you think there's a good chance you can get stuck.

I guess my point is, make sure you get all the wheels that have good traction spinning. On a pickup truck that drags a bumper-pull trailer, that's usually the front axle.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Out of curiosity, why is that? Auto-locker of any kind is a big no-no in my book as well, but why not a selectable? Especially since you have one in the rear already, why do you choose to recommend against one in the front as well.

I guess my point is, make sure you get all the wheels that have good traction spinning. On a pickup truck that drags a bumper-pull trailer, that's usually the front axle.


Trailer will add weight back. Just need the front to not be a drag like a 2wd, and spin some. Real 4wd might be overkill for a mild tow rig build.

We've snapped the front diff and axles too easy on those. If you do lock the front. Save it for dire need. And if it doesn't help, open it back up immediately. I have no confidence in the GM front axles.
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
Well, for the flip side of Buliwyf, I have EVERY confidence in the exact same front axle that's in your 8.1L 2500 'Burb. In factory form they hold up to 1000+ ftlbs of torque drag racing in 4wd... Add someone's shoddy lift kit, or a 22 year old kit driving a truck that isn't his, all bets are off, but for those of us driving it like we paid for it, you'll never break it.
One tip that's worth mentioning... Don't wait till you're stuck to put it in 4wd... put it in 4wd before you need to, and give the front CAD a little time to engage before you send a bunch of torque through it. If you do have to shift in and get the front pulling from a stop, go gently forward then reverse before you get on the throttle. That'll make sure the CAD splines are fully engaged and don't fail because of a lack of engagement. :)

You'll notice that everyone's advice is a little different, from "just go" to "OMG you're gonna die!!". That's because "Forest Service Road" means different things in different parts of the country. Many of them are nicely graded gravel roads, but some become exceptionally slick with rain, and others can be rougher than heck, or washed out in places, and fairly tight. You know the type of roads you're going on, and it's going to have to be your call what you do.

I'm running the truck version of your Burb, and I'll tell you I'm not excited about "wheeling" my truck with the truck camper on the back. It's just not fun. If you're towing a trailer, you're most likely just running the graded roads, with the occasional muddy or sandy spot or washout to get through. About the only modification that I'd consider a mandate for that is tires. Get some decent tires. I went from Michelin all season's to the new DC Fun Country tires and it made a HUGE difference in my ability and confidence when the going gets less than firm...

I wouldn't sweat it if you don't have the locker... I have it and it's never engaged while I was heading somewhere with the camper in the back. You're in an 8000lb truck. If the road is so washed out that you can't keep all four tires firmly on the ground, you don't need to be pulling a trailer through whatever it is you're considering... And as long as the wheels are fairly firmly planted, a locker doesn't do squat.

Make sure you have decent tires, and then head out. You'll learn pretty quickly what else might need improvement, but my guess is that you're looking pretty good for what you're going to be doing. :)

And post some pictures of the rig out and about!!
Chris
 

Oobray

Adventurer
Thanks for all the responses. Yes just to confirm, it's a 3/4 ton truck. I've already pulled it through some pretty sloppy mid. So I guess if it did that ok I'm probably doing alright. It's got stock suspension (so I'm not worried about the CVs) and 31" Copper STs. They are pretty sweet.



This is one spot I pulled it through last deer season.
 
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underdrive

jackwagon
Thanks for all the responses. Yes just to confirm, it's a 3/4 ton truck. I've already pulled it through some pretty sloppy mid.

This is one spot I pulled it through last deer season.

This is exactly the kind of soup that stops our 1-ton every single time. Well, used to stop it. If you go thru that OK with trailer in tow, then I think you should be just fine. Ironically a brand-name winch is about the same amount of money as an on-demand locker, however it installs much easier and can pull you out of places where no locker is gonna help you. If you're afraid you may get stuck bad, considering how you're faring right now, a winch may be a better investment that a locker. Not mandatory by no means, just something to think about. And it doesn't have to be brand-name either, we've seen the $400 12k Harbor Freight winches do the same work as our Ramseys that cost like three times that - may not be quite as durable in the long run, but if you're not using it day in and day out it may just fit the bill. Matter of fact we just picked one up for use as a mobile winch on the rear of whatever truck needs it at the time, haven't had a chance to test it yet tho.
 

Oobray

Adventurer
If I look into a winch, does it need to be rated to pull the total weight of truck and trailer? I guess I'd need like a 16k winch?
 

underdrive

jackwagon
Nah, don't need that much. If you were dragging your truck and trailer sideways on paved roads then probably, but for self-extraction purposes where the winch is assisting the wheels (or the wheels are assisting the winch, either way the two are working together) and you're pulling either from the front of from the rear you'll need way less than 16k. Big winches are readily available these days but the prices is usually way up there north of 1k (15k Ramsey Patriot is almost $1700 IIRC), don't know what your budget is but I don't really see spending that kinda money for something that may or may not be needed (and likely NOT anywhere near full capacity) a few times a year if that.

We have a 10k on the 1-ton and a 12k on the other big 4x4 (cause it was factory), the Jeep has 9k IIRC. All of them had the opportunity to drag the dually with a trailer thru mud, none of them ever complained. Besides you can always use a pulley block to double you line pull.
 

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