Help regarding purchasing of Unimog U1700L 1980 model

[Vegard_S]

Hello,

I have been looking on buying a Unimog U1700L from Germany, and then bringing it to Norway for converting into a camper truck. I have found one candidate, and yesterday I had a test drive in it. It''s a former crane truck, and thus only have 29 000km on the clock, but 9600 hours... There is a lot of surface rust, and some minor oil leaks. But it runs good, no smoke from the exhaust, good brakes, 8-bolts wheel (reinforced portal gear hubs), complete history with documentation of previous owners ++, OM352A engine with 172 bHp, the transmission seems to be in good order, and shifts nicely.

The asking price is only 10 000 Euros. Could this be a bargain?

Are there any specific areas/parts I need to be especially aware of, any weak spots? I would be very greatfull for any replies.

PS: VIN-number is:

435 111 10 071503

Can any of you decode what it means?

 

[charlieaarons]

What do you want to know? It does show up on my EPC. It does not have working gears (13.01 x axle ratio is lowest gear) - that is code G20; absent on this one.
Rust can be very expensive/time-consuming.

Charlie

 

[Iain_U1250]

How much "surface rust" Mine had "only minor" rust, but after soda blasting and stripping of paint with a wire brush, the minor amount was quite a lot. i replaced large parts of the floor, which is not a big deal in the end, but a lot more than I bargained for.

but it can all be fixed

 

[Vegard_S]

Thanks for input guys! I don't think that I will be in need of any working gears, i find that the standard gearbox makes it slow enough... But what can you find from the VIN-number, except from the missing working gears Charlie? Any optional equipment from factory ore other rare combinations? I'm thankful for all feedback!

And regarding rust in the chassis Ian, i think (but don't know..) that it might be in better condition and what your floor was when you started of. I'm not afraid of having a round or two with the angle grinder and MIG-welder BTW, I love the work you have done to your camper, and the way you have documented it, I think I speak for all of us when saying that you are a big inspiration for anyone attempting to build something similar!

Here are some pictures I took during my inspection of the Unimog I am wondering about buying. As you can see it seems to give a rather disappointing first impression, but my immediate thought is that as long as it's mechanically ok, the chassiscorrotion ++ can be adresed later on.

 

[Vegard_S]

 

[mogwildRW1]

Here is the data card: View attachment WDB43511110071503_EPC.pdf

You can cross reference the option order codes here: http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/unimogoptioncodes.html

That area at the rear axle is a known rust trap, and should be thoroughly inspected:

 

[Vegard_S]

Great info Trev, thanks a lot!

 

[Vegard_S]

Status update:

Decided to go for it and spend some extra time on getting it back into the condition it deserves to be in! I am picking it up in the middle of May and driving it back to Norway. I can then happily inform you all that I am soon to be the proud owner of a U1700L Unimog! :sombrero:

 

[mogwildRW1]

Nice! Good luck and I'll watch for the build thread!

 

[rasu]

Congratulation Vegard !!!

 

[Iain_U1250]

Working gears are used off road, mainly when going down steep hillls,

First one is an ex-military mog - no working gears, you can hear how he uses the brakes to control the descent, if control is the right word.



The red ones have working gears, and that is how it should be done.

 

[Vegard_S]

Great comparison Ian, I see how it could be quite useful to have the working gears in some situations.. But still, I think that for my intended use (remote distanse travel on rough or bad roads, not so much off-roading) it wont be needed for 98 % of the time. The last 2 % of the time i just have to find a way around it. I've been watching the prices for used Unimogs in Europe fore quite some time now, and it seems that it is only very rare that a U1700L are available for this amount of money. And the crane attached to it can also come in handy one day

 

[Daytonacoupe66]

Wow, pucker factor for the driver and photographer on that last descent shown for the white truck. What a great comparison. With all of the footage I've found on the internet that is the first clip I've seen that has reflected difficulty in challenging terrain.

 

[charlieaarons]

I wouldn't own a Unimog without working gears. Why have portal axles, ~20" ground clearance etc etc and NOT have the relatively cheap working gear option? Especially important with UGN/UHN since they have overdriven transmissions so 1st is only 9.57:1.

Charlie

 

[Mike Hill]

Hei Vegard

I live in Bergen and run a Unimog as part of my business.I too bought my first one in Germany and drove it all the way back to Bergen.

I suggest you invest in a infra-red thermometer for your journey,as well as a Grease gun and some Gear oil in addition to a device like a giant syringe that you can use to top up the Hubs.

You are going to be driving a long way and the Oil in the Hubs can be pressurized out of the Axel,resulting in the bearing eventually collapsing (it happened to me).

So...stop every 200km and check quickly the temperature of the Hubs and Differentials using your infra-red thermometer.If one or more is hotter than it should be,its likely lost/losing Oil.This is when your Oil and Syringe comes in.If you blow a Hub seal (quite likely if the Mog has been sitting for a extended period and then driven long and hard).Then Pack the Hub with grease from the upper filler hole,Use a whole cartridge.The Grease will leak out eventually but its alot easier to find another grease cartridge than a open workshop and the right seal.

Lastly,the OM352 tends to use a bit of Oil when its run constantly at high RPM.Minimum speed on the Autobahn is 80kmph,that was about max speed for my old U1000.I found I used a couple of liters on my way out of Germany and pretty much none when I drove through Denmark.This was in a Mint condition U1000 with 90K on the clock and 3000 Engine hours.I had that truck seven years over here.

All the best for your journey