Ulysses the Uhaul - Strategic Surf Assault Vehicle project build

[IdaSHO]

Great call... I think I'll go with your suggestion. What do you suggest for bonding the XPS to FRP exterior wall, and plywood to insulation? Glued with something like a 3M spray adhesive, or sandwiched between furring strips and held in place by the plywood screwed to the furring strips, or something else?

You need construction adhesive for both joints, and one that is friendly to foam board.

After performing some testing with various foam adhesives, I decided on PL foamboard adhesive for my build.

great initial tack, remains a bit flexible, and stay stuck once cured.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-VOC-Adhesive-1421941/202020476

 

[mexicanfooddude]

Welcome to the forum, I dont have much to add other than a comment about how your water tank is mounted, it looks like there are strips of plywood holding it up?? Water is heavy and in a tank it will get moving and have some considerable momentum, if that is what I see maybe some beefing up might be a consideration.

That's actually aluminum channel, the aluminum channel used previously for the box rub rails that I pulled off the wall There are plans to beef up that water tank support though. Thanks!

 

[guidolyons]

. Dune buggy company knew their way around engines, and took pretty good care of this thing…

I’d also really like to make this thing do better offroad. I don’t want to do anything crazy, but being able to handle some dirt roads in Baja would be nice. My strong suit is not suspension though, so is it even logistically/economically feasible to improve this?

Nice stealth-mobile. :chef: Doesn't really look like an RV or a U-haul.

For the offroad capability, did the dune buggy company happen to install a locking differential in the rear end? Adding a locking differential will greatly improve the off road capability with out the complexity and $$$ converting to 4x4. I like an ARB for it's on-road manners and "on-demand when you need it" plus you will have an on board air compressor to air up tires, blow up air mattresses, beach toys, etc. The other option is the Detroit locker install it and forget it. It works all the time, but with noisier on road manners.


If you do want to convert to 4x4, check out the van section...U-joint offroad specializes in converting '92+ Ford vans to 4x4. He offers DIY kits or can do the conversion for you. http://www.ujointoffroad.com/4x4vanfaqs.html

 

[rayra]

Nice work, nice cabinetry. I'd vote for removing the floor-touching cabs, do the full floor, keep the high cabs and do the wall insulation/ paneling and then remount the floor cabs.

I'd be thinking of some sort of innocuous and offputting business logo to plaster on that thing as camouflage. 'Sewer inspection', 'Exterminator', something like that. Something that people will ignore and won't attract thieves.

Consider some vehicle wrap -style graphics which overlap your windows and doors and use a diffusion pattern in the areas you want to see out thru. From the outside it will mask those dark windows, they won't stand out so much.

I'd even do it with some subtle humor. Again something that 90% of people will just ignore as 'background', but the few that really look will read it and laugh. And go away satisfied instead of prying further.

in the same vein I'd suggest keeping the roll-up in place as both camoflage and security. But build a true wall just inside it with wide door(s), windows. Or even a big sliding glass door. When you are in your campsite, up goes the roll-up and you have a huge view and tons of light and air. Something akin to this idea, with nicer execution -

 

[mexicanfooddude]

in the same vein I'd suggest keeping the roll-up in place as both camoflage and security. But build a true wall just inside it with wide door(s), windows. Or even a big sliding glass door. When you are in your campsite, up goes the roll-up and you have a huge view and tons of light and air. Something akin to this idea, with nicer execution -

Such a killer idea! I'll have to give that some more thought... the wall obviously wouldn't be able to go all the way to the top, to allow the door to roll up. So that still leaves some issues with the air penetration through the roll up door that I'm trying to alleviate... hmmm. I like it.

Definitely considered some sort of subtly-humorous logo on the street side, and still trying to figure out what that might be Of course I'm torn between trying to keep this truck inconspicuous by putting up things like fake logos, and going all out to make it look as ************ as possible with a really cool exterior paint job. Form vs. function, the neverending debate... ideally combine the best of both worlds and make a fake company logo that contributes to the overall appearance in a positive way.

 

[mexicanfooddude]

For the offroad capability, did the dune buggy company happen to install a locking differential in the rear end? Adding a locking differential will greatly improve the off road capability with out the complexity and $$$ converting to 4x4. I like an ARB for it's on-road manners and "on-demand when you need it" plus you will have an on board air compressor to air up tires, blow up air mattresses, beach toys, etc. The other option is the Detroit locker install it and forget it. It works all the time, but with noisier on road manners.

Thanks for the input, I'll have to do some research on that! The company definitely didn't put any money into the vehicle beyond keeping it running well in order to transport their buggies, so I feel fairly certain they didn't install a locking differential on the vehicle. I'm still pretty green on all of that terminology so I'll have do some reading on all of your suggestions.

EDIT: Doing some research... what does ARB stand for? Is that another name for a locking rear differential?

 

[jasonsuperb]

Arb is an Australian company that makes locking differentials that are activated using a compressor. Cool build!


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[pappawheely]

Hmmm, you say the extruded floor acts as a heat sink? I might leave mine raw. Those rub strips are useful. I have used them in my build too.

 

[guidolyons]

Arb is an Australian company that makes locking differentials that are activated using a compressor. Cool build!

Yep. ARB a brand of air actuated "selectable" locking differential. http://store.arbusa.com/Air-Lockers-C7.aspx

Detroit is a mechanical locker.

The ARB is more complicated and more expensive (~$1200 for the locker, plus air compressor, install, etc) Detroit is about half that, ~$700-800.

http://www.justdifferentials.com/Locking-Differentials-s/2849.htm Just Differentials has a build thread on here for the NitroGear RV. http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...-Ford-F450-4x4-Motorhome-on-42-s-Build-Thread

Whats the difference between a Mechanical locker and a Selectable locker?

Mechanical Lockers:
(Detroit, Powertrax, Lock Right)

Mechanical lockers engage automatically when force is applied to the differential via the pinion and ring gear. While force is not actively being applied, springs in the locker allow the mechanism to disengage. That is to say that when you press on the gas it locks up, when you let off the gas and turn it unlocks.
Mechanical lockers are well know for the popping and clanking noises they make when engaging and disengaging.
Mechanical lockers can be installed in front differentials but you must have lock out hubs and they MUST be unlocked for on-road driving because of steering issues.


Selectable Locker:
(ARB, TJM, OX, Auburn ECTED, Eaton E-Locker)

Selectable lockers fall into 3 categories - Air, electric and manual.
Air lockers use compressed air from a vehicle-mounted air compressor to engage the locking mechanism.
Electric lockers use an electrical pulse to engage a magnetic locking device.
Manual lockers (OX) must be engaged by pulling a [cable] (although many OX can be upgraded to electric).
Air and electric lockers can be activated by a switch inside the vehicle.
Selectable lockers are fully locked when engaged and function as an open differential when not engaged.
Some electric lockers function as a limited-slip differential when not engaged.

I can't recommend the electrically actuated lockers...an electromagnet swimming in gear oil full of metal particles is a bad idea, and the locking mechanism is not as strong as an ARB or OX. OX requires a thick, stiff cable be routed to the diff.

 

[mexicanfooddude]

Thanks for the input everyone. I'll probably have more questions on the locking differentials in a couple of months after I knock out a few things on the interior

This weekend's task is replacing the ceiling roof panels, followed by pulling out some cabinets and insulating the walls with 3/4" XPS + plywood panels.

The local lumber yard has some really nice looking 1/8" red oak plywood sheets, and some not-quite-as-nice-but-still-pretty-nice and cheaper 1/8" birch plywood sheets. Wondering if anyone has any input on the best way to finish these. I think I want to go for natural, unstained wood... If I went with the red oak, what would be the best finish to use to keep it protected and easily cleaned? Same with the birch?

 

[mexicanfooddude]

Hmmm, you say the extruded floor acts as a heat sink? I might leave mine raw. Those rub strips are useful. I have used them in my build too.

Yea, since the floor is out of the sun, even on warm days it stays fairly cool to the touch. Great when it's warm out, helps regulate interior temp... however, at night it sucks the heat out of the space real quick. I've had mine raw for over a year, did that three month trip in it, and have decided to insulate it.

I probably wouldn't mind so much if it was just me, but I've got the wife and baby and they want to be warm at night without have to load up on down jackets If you're normally in a warm area, I probably wouldn't bother with insulating.

Subscribed to your build, looking great!

 

[volcomsurfer]

Looks awesome!!!! sub'd

 

[IdaSHO]

The local lumber yard has some really nice looking 1/8" red oak plywood sheets, and some not-quite-as-nice-but-still-pretty-nice and cheaper 1/8" birch plywood sheets. Wondering if anyone has any input on the best way to finish these. I think I want to go for natural, unstained wood... If I went with the red oak, what would be the best finish to use to keep it protected and easily cleaned? Same with the birch?

If you want 1/8 (which is fine), cheap, and presentable you want DOOR SKINS

Thats what my entire camper interior s skinned with, and what the cabinets are skinned in..
They come in 3'x7' panels.

And if all you want to do is seal them, just coat them in poly. I really like the rub on stuff lately.
Eliminates the need to drag out the paint sprayer, resporator, and cover everything that DOESNT need to be poly's in the shop.

4-5 coats of the rub on poly and you are good to go.

 

[mexicanfooddude]

Thanks idasho. The lumber guy mentioned some 3'x7' sheets of 1/8" that they had in inventory when I was asking him about pricing on the red oak sheets, and the only thing that went through my mind was how odd of a size that was to have in plywood or luan. Door skins makes sense though, hadn't really thought of that. I'll go back and give em a look...

Also went to check the local HD for XPS. Of course the only thing they have within 150 miles of me is 1/2"... and they can't order anything bigger. Their 1/2" XPS is R-3, $16.50 apiece. They do have 3/4" EPS, which is the same thickness as my furring strips, R-2.85, for $8.50 apiece... and of course the polyiso, 3/4", R-5 for $15.50. Hard to justify spending the same amount for the XPS as the Polyiso, in the wrong thickness and with significantly less insulative value. However, your argument for staying away from polyiso in a vehicle makes sense to me... so I think I may go for the EPS. Cheaper, the size I need, and most importantly, available!

 

[IdaSHO]

Give me your zip code.

Ill find you another source for XPS :sombrero: