The $350 Xterra

Brett_Murphy

New member
I picked up this 2000 Xterra for $350 a while back. It had just had new Michelin tires put on a few days before the timing belt failed. The owner was asking $1000 for it, but after it sat for a while at the garage that found the timing belt, he just wanted it gone. At that price, plus $100 tow back to my house, I couldn't say no. However, it was project number three in the rotation, so it has sat around for a bit. This build thread is going to be condensed from the past 12 months of work, which has been going slowly.

There is a bit of light rust on it. People from salt states would consider it very minor, people that are only used to cars in my area may get tetanus just looking at it. That just means I won't feel bad about driving it on the beach.

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The issue when I bought it was a dead engine. It's messy.

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And it probably has some damage to the valves.

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Luckily, I have a much lower mileage replacement lined up and ready to go from a 2004 Xterra.

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While it will move, it did hit something hard. I had to employ the sawzall to be able to turn the wheel.

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The plan is to swap the good engine into the good chassis. Apparently I am going to have to reuse the intake and exhaust manifolds off of the dead engine in order for it to fit into the bay of the 2000. There might also be some work involved with the starter. We'll see.

Just to be safe, a timing belt/water pump replacement will be done while the engine is out of the car. The lower mile, rust free shocks and leafs may also get swapped into the good body. The 2004 seats are also going to get swapped.
 

Brett_Murphy

New member
Getting the front differential out was entertaining. It was heavier than I thought.


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I've got to remember to use blue thread lock on the axles and put the vacuum tube back on the back when I put it back in.

The thing isn't exactly light. Getting it back into the truck is going to be fun. I think I'm going to remove the subframes, bolt it back in and then just jack the assembled pieces back up and bolt them in. It would be nice to be able to put a locker or something into this while it is out, but given that the theme of this build is to spend as little money as possible for a beach truck, it probably won't happen. The rear differential is an LSD. I did some research on the Axle code for the truck. I have axle code HG46, which should have a H233B axle with 4.636:1 gearing and 33 spline axles. The front is usually an R200 axle. I did this because the factory LSD in the rear seems a bit weak. I will probably want to rebuild it eventually, or put some kind of locker back there, but that's going to be a plan down the line. I might get more bang for my buck putting the locker up front in any case.
 
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Brett_Murphy

New member
There seems to be a big hole where the engine used to go. Whoever designed the transmission dipstick to bolt onto the back of the engine got a 15 year old practical joke on me, because I never anticipated that. I tried to remove the engine before it was unbolted from the dipstick and some deformation happened. I'm going to have to check it for cracks before I get the new unit in place.

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Since there is a hole for the donor engine in the good truck, the donor vehicle's time had come.

I had to employ the sawzall and a BFH to bend the metal out of the way when I was removing the engine. The metal had crumpled in such a way that it has sheared the top off of the power steering pump and was pinching the engine into place.

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Mmmm... the power steering oil sprayed all over. Fun times.

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The parts for the timing belt and water pump replacement just came in this week. We're putting flags on graves tomorrow, and we've got kayaking plans for Monday, so if things work out I may have some time to get it done on Sunday. If I can get the timing belt done, I'll start fiddling with the intake and exhaust manifolds. While the intake is off, I am seriously considering replacing the knock sensor as well. It wasn't throwing a code, but they are a pain to get to. Nissan buried them under the intake in the V of the engine, so that is a job I'd rather just do while I am transferring the intake rather than waiting for it to fail
 

richard310

pew pew
Quite a job and quite a pick up for $350. While you're under there, possibly relocate the knock sensor as I've heard of folks doing that. Replace the spark plugs as well since the engine is out. The #6 plug is the most difficult to access, needing to remove the intake manifold to get to. If I can think of anything else, I'll re-chime back in.

Any plans to part out the 2004 to sell as parts? :D
 

Brett_Murphy

New member
Oh, and whoever designed the coolant flow so that there is a soft hose buried under the intake needs counseling.

I added "replace every single hose" to the list of things to do.
 

richard310

pew pew
Oh, and whoever designed the coolant flow so that there is a soft hose buried under the intake needs counseling.

I added "replace every single hose" to the list of things to do.

And also the genius who decided to put the alternator down low to be susceptible to water...
 

Brett_Murphy

New member
The crankshaft oil seal wasn't in the box, so the engine work on the car has stopped until that arrives. I just can't see having the thing apart and not replacing that while I am in there.

I might do some interior work on it tomorrow.
 

Bigfnhammer

This could be anywhere
yeah man, do everything and anything you can while the engine is out! an ounce of preventative maintenance is worth a pound of cure.
 

Brett_Murphy

New member
Talked to the dealership today, they are going to overnight the part. I might have to fix my big halogen light and spin some wrenches on it after work.
 

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