To the West Coast and back

[johnnytravels]

Next stop was Bozeman, Montana, which seemed like a very cool and livable town.

(I liked the t.s. eliot quote)

(I thought the contrast was interesting with the homeless person in the background)

Where I spent a day walking around, enjoying the street art, and spotting more than my share of dogs sitting in cars.

And some pretty cool rides.

I love the kid's expression in the billboard above.

I pictured this guy as a travelling musician, who just got done with an afternoon set at a bar or coffee shop somewhere, and was headed on to the next town.

 

[johnnytravels]

Bozeman has a really nice public library. And I liked the neighborhoods around downtown as well. Like this greenhouse and garden someone had built in their yard.

There was a nice mix of new and old homes, with modern designs that I liked, and a neighborhood artist studio. as well as folks who planted more than just grass iyt in the front. The latter reminded me of Ron Finley, who planted a garden in his front island and got in trouble with the city, which told him to tear it down. But he got people to sign a petition, and fought back and eventually won the right to grow fruit, vegetables and actually useful plants in place of just grass.

 

[johnnytravels]

The drive out of Bozeman offered some really nice views. Where I live, it's totally flat, with no landscape or mountains to speak of, so I could really appreciate just how nice it must be to live around such views. My next stop was headed east to visit my friend Eric near Butte.

Where I found him out front playing catch with his dog Emma. Eric lives in a house built by his great grandfather, nearly a century ago, which originally served as a schoolhouse, which he's presently converted into his art studio. Spacious, and with lots of windows and skylights, which lets in plenty of natural light, it seemed like the perfect place for an artist to work.

His career arc is interesting because Eric originally went to school for Architecture, and worked as one for a few years, before quitting to pursue art. He's self-taught in the craft, without any sort of fine arts background, and is in the process of reproducing the styles of the greats throughout history. Also, he makes his own paints. While he showed me around, Emma, who was quite rambunctious and excited to have a visitor, was left to wait outside. Despite the bad photo I took, my favorite was the piece below of the young girl, next to its negative reverse etching, which was as creepy and scary looking as the original was beautiful.

If you want to see more of his art in better picture quality, here's his website: https://stonestudio.wordpress.com/

His house is in a pretty remote area, so there's plenty of solitude, and the surrounding views were quite nice as well. The winters in Montana get plenty cold, but it seemed like a nice place to live. I'm glad I got the chance to stop by and visit, and see his artwork in person. What makes his situation interesting is that he didn't go to art school, and hasn't been influenced by a group of instructors and advisers that mold students and push them in a particular direction, so his development is completely self-directed. And you could see it in the variety of styles from realism to impressionism, portraits, landscapes, still life, and so on. While most artists carve a niche for themselves and focus on a particular style, I think it's pretty amazing for one not to choose a narrow focus, and to try and tackle a wide breadth, and produce good work while doing so. Many of his finished paintings were pieces produced during the learning phase of that style, hard to believe.

 

[unkamonkey]

Interesting, the first thing is that I am a fan of Black Labs, The first breed of dog I ever owned. A friend is an artist and retired art teacher, camped out in my yard right now with his wife and Border Collie. He has developed many glazes for pottery and has done about everything artsy. Every year he sends hand painted cards for Christmas. His wife used to be be a concert piano player and then became a head nurse at a few hospitals. Neighbors are retired teachers. Petra could teach four languages and Mike did special education. Why do these people even associate with me? Mike, Petra and Ron still run across former students around here and all of them apreicite wh

 

[johnnytravels]

Artists have a different way of seeing things, that makes them interesting people. Finding an outlet for that creativity is important, it's the way we fundamentally express our understanding of the world. Even if you don't make a living at it, it's still worthwhile to do as a hobby. That's something I thought a lot about. An example I like to use is Van Gogh's shoes painting.

If most of us see a pair of shoes like that on the floor, we wouldn't think twice, but an artist like Van Gogh looks at them and sees something interesting and worth painting. In doing so, he's able to capture the essence and history of those shoes, and challenge us to think about the story behind them (such as who wore them and where did those shoes take them). I think that's what great art ultimately does -- it challenges the viewer to see the world a different way. I had a few conversations with Eric that really challenged my understanding of aesthetics, and hopefully is reflected in some of my photos.

p.s. It sounds like your friends are pretty cool people, it's probably not surprising they've positively impacted more than a few students along the way.

 

[johnnytravels]

I passed through Bozeman again on the way back, and stopped at a bakery that Eric recommended, and bought a baguette for the road.

It had been a while since I last stepped foot in a bakery, and I had forgotten how warm and inviting it is to walk into one and smell the baked goods. My last job was working as an artisan baker, so it was a familiar feeling, almost like returning home. I tore off a piece to check the crumb (baker's speak for the interior makeup of the bread), and found it had a nice texture with irregular air pockets, meaning it received enough proof time to rise and develop properly. Plus, the exterior was nice and crusty. It was so tasty that as I drove, I ate nearly a third of it plain. The ingredients that make up a rustic baguette are simple -- just flour, water, salt, and yeast (and maybe a little sourdough starter in some cases), but getting one to turn out right is not always easy, so I can appreciate a well made baguette. The other product looked good as well. It was nice to see they took the craft of baking seriously, it was the type of place I'd like to work at if I were to go back to working as one again.

This is something I've been thinking about during my trip. One of the reasons I took a job working as a baker, was it would be a good skill set to have if I were to move around (which is something I've been thinking about doing). Wherever you go, there's always a bakery where you can find a job. It's not easy work, as usually a baker works odd hours -- either early mornings, or at night -- and stand in front of a hot oven, and do the same task over and over again. But there is a satisfaction in working with your hands and developing your craft, also the immediate reward of seeing the fruits of your labor (a far cry from business management, which is what I went to school for). But if I were to try and explore a nomadic lifestyle, I thought it might help me quickly find employment wherever I go.

But I was back on the road, heading east through Montana, where the periodic rain and overcast conditions did make for some really cool cloud formations. These are the type of things I notice when I'm on a road trip, but seem to ignore when I'm at home, and caught up in my daily routine. I'm glad I had this break to take in all the natural beauty I've seen along the way.

I stopped at a rest stop where there seemed to be an unusual number of Corvettes parked, and a grounded bumble bee that followed me around. Not long after, I was passed by another caravan of Corvettes, there must have been a car show further up the highway.

I made a brief stop at the Little Big Horn Memorial to put my annual parks pass to work. The detail they put into re-enacting the event was remarkable. You can follow a trail with sign markers telling where each individual soldier or native american fell in battle.

But soon was back on the road, where I found a campsite I had researched earlier along the way. If I had more time, I would have liked to stay longer, as it was a nice spot to camp, but I did have some business to take care of at home, and was on a bit of a schedule, so I only stayed the night.

 

[johnnytravels]

It was a gloomy day that rained off and on, but nevertheless a visit to Mt. Rushmore was in order.

Her deadpan look cracked me up. She reminded me of MTV's Daria.

I also went down to see the workshop area.

And by the time I hiked down to the base, the view was completely obstructed by fog.

But that didn't seem to stop this couple from having a good time.

Or tourists from wanting a picture of themselves in front of a wall of fog. The man in the red sweatshirt had to be somewhat disappointed. He seemed ready to take pictures. Pretty much everyone else cleared out, leaving him a lonely figure out in front.

I did not envy this group of bikers gearing up for a wet ride.

 

[johnnytravels]

Back on the road, and along the way a rest stop with a scenic view of the Missouri river.

It was also home to a Lewis and Clark memorial. Their expedition is something I was vaguely aware of from studying American history in school. I knew they made it from one end of the country to the other, and that there was a college named after them in Oregon. Eric had also brought it up in conversation, describing the grueling trip they took and the difficulties they encountered along the way, which brought them near his neck of the woods. And as I continued east I kept seeing more and more references to their travels. Apparently, without knowing it I had been following their general path along the Missouri river, through Montana and South Dakota, and down into Iowa. The memorial described in detail how they camped, the provisions they brought along with them, and the animals they encountered along the way. They had never seen bison, groundhogs, prairie dogs, or coyotes before -- the latter which they referred to as a 'prairie wolf.'

At a stop in Iowa, I came across another Lewis and Clark memorial, this time a riverboat named the Sergeant Floyd, after a member the expedition party.

A group later used it to try and recreate Lewis and Clark's voyage, before it eventually got dry-docked and later turned into a museum. Unfortunately, I got there too late and it was closed, but these series of events definitely piqued my interest in reading their journals. It combines two of my interests, travel and history.

The journal entries vary from some of Lewis' elaborate depictions of the native american peoples he met along the way, describing in loving detail their manner of dress, health, culture, etc. While others are short and straightforward, such as a one line entry stating that a member of the crew was bitten on the foot by a snake, it swelled immensely, they applied tree bark.

 

[johnnytravels]

And back on the road through the mostly flat and uninteresting landscape of Iowa (If you're from Iowa, I'm sorry, but you know it's true).

Along the way, I took a detour to check out an historic windmill.

Can't say I was really impressed, but I appreciated the contrast between old and new technologies, seeing an electric charging station in front of a windmill. I guess this was an area settled by early nordic travelers, which as part of their historic legacy preserved a viking hamlet, which I did find cool.

I wanted to look inside, but there was a padlock on the door. And with that I said goodbye to the old windmill (and it's smorgasbord), and hit the road again.

I stopped at a rest stop and saw what I thought was reservoir, but upon closer inspection.

It looked pretty clean for a sewage lagoon, and didn't smell at all, but if you were a township and didn't want people swimming in your local water supply, I guess that would be one way to try and keep folks out. Parked next to me were a pair of dogs sitting in the car, so I had to take a picture.

It had been overcast or rained most of the way through South Dakota, so it was nice to finally experience some decent weather. The clouds seemed almost cartoonishly fluffy.

I thought this cargo looked a bit precarious and unstable as it shifted around in the wind, and wanted to get past him just in case.

I stopped in Iowa City along the way to get something to eat, and discovered it was home to the University of Iowa. I'm familiar with the Hawkeyes, only insofar as they're a member of the Big Ten conference (along with the Buckeyes), and found a Chipotle located near campus, which I ate at a park bench, while taking in the view.

For some reason, I really like the vibe of a college town. This was during summer break, and there weren't many students around, so it was nice to be able to walk around without a big crowd. But the local pan handlers were still out approaching strangers (I gave the guy in the orange jacket above some change earlier), while this fellow below was busy making bracelets, along with the cops who were out on patrol.

I think one of the things I like is the abundance of street art in these towns, and happened to be there while the folks above were painting benches, some of whom noticed me taking their picture.

 

[johnnytravels]

Before leaving, I stopped for gas at a Sinclair station (apparently they must have a problem with people climbing on their mascot), and did find your uncle Bob's pizza cafe next door intriguing (with its many gluten-free menu items), but I had already eaten, and was ready to make the final leg of my trip.

I stopped at a rest stop in Illinois which, in addition to its nice facilities, had this sculpture on display. It had won several rest stop of the year awards, and was very clean and well manicured. Having been on the road for some time, I've really come to appreciate rest stops, and try not to take them for granted. Many are staffed 24 hours, and I've often seen lawn crews busy at work cutting the grass while I was there. They really are a boon to the weary traveler.

As I neared home, it rained so hard I could barely see twenty feet in front of me, and almost wanted to pull off the highway a number of times. When I later checked the news, I learned that around this time large parts of Texas and Oklahoma were experiencing flash floods from heavy rainfall as well. The weather and lack of scenery (along with general travel fatigue) made me want to just power ahead and finish the trip, without any detours, which is what I did.

You know you're back in Bengal country.

In addition to rest stops, another resource I've come to appreciate are the public libraries. In many an unfamiliar city or town I've found a place I can go to catch up on the internet, and hang out for a while. I've included a few photos of them along the way here, and always found them a welcoming place, and may have left a few random origami pieces behind.

And having visited lots of parks during my travels, I can better appreciate the ones near my home.

 

[johnnytravels]

I'd been putting off completing these final posts to my travel journal, but wanted to conclude by summing up my thoughts. During a trip like this, you really get back to basics. Travel is a 'Walden-esque' experience in that sense. The trivialities one normally faces diminish, and you focus on the simple things like what to eat, where to sleep, and where you're going next. Having gone weeks without a cell signal or internet, I discovered it's not hard to live without Facebook or Netflix. And it's liberating to not stay current with the news or social media. I enjoyed the experience of camping, and hiking all day, then returning to camp and hydrating with a beer (or two) and cooking dinner over the fire. Instead of staring at electronic devices, I read actual books. And it helped put me in the moment, so I could see and experience things I may have otherwise overlooked or ignored, and better appreciate the little things in life. It's hard when you're focused on work all the time, or going through the usual routine, most people develop a kind of tunnel vision to get them through the day. But being in an unfamiliar environment takes one out of that state, and you become more aware of the people and places around you. At least that's what I experienced, and tried to photograph.

As for the travel itself, it was liberating to be able to leave everything behind and just look forward to the road ahead. I often felt that way as I drove from one place to the next. I enjoyed the feeling of self-sufficiency, carrying everything I needed with me (and little more). And when I was on the road for months on end, I thought of my vehicle as my home. I think I got a taste of what people who live and travel full-time in RV's experience, and why they love it so much. I left with very little travel experience, but over the nearly half year I spent on the road, felt like I became a seasoned traveler. I met a lot of great people along the way, and got to experience some truly amazing sights. And as many here already know, I learned it isn't that hard or expensive to see the country this way -- you just need the willingness to go out and try. But thanks to sites like this, and different travel blogs I've read, I got the inspiration to do it myself, and get bitten by the travel bug (as they say) in the process. Now I want to make travel a regular thing, and more of a lifestyle than just going on vacation. I'm back to working everyday, and going through the normal routine, but look forward to the day I can pack up and hit the road again. But for now, I'll have to settle for vicariously experiencing the trips that others are on once more, and follow along on their journeys.

 

[little_joe]

I just read this thread beginning to end and thoroughly enjoyed it, the pictures and the nuggets of wisdom you shared, about taking pictures vs. having experiences, taking things for granted. I appreciate very much that you took the time to document this, Johnny - and I hope you're able to do more trips!

BTW, you live in an interesting city, which I suspect you take for granted. My sister and her family live in North College Hill, and whenever I come to visit Cinci I am amazed by the diversity and dichotomies and contrasts, and just completely soak up the experience.

 

[4x4x4doors]

Thanks. I had read the earlier parts of your thread before but came back to it this morning to as a new piece and read all the way through. Thanks for sharing.

 

[johnnytravels]

Thank you guys, glad you enjoyed the thread. I've certainly enjoyed following other people's travels, so I'm glad to be able to give something back in return, and hope to someday do it again (although it won't be for a little while).

BTW, you live in an interesting city, which I suspect you take for granted. My sister and her family live in North College Hill, and whenever I come to visit Cinci I am amazed by the diversity and dichotomies and contrasts, and just completely soak up the experience.

I think you're right, Joe. We're probably all a little guilty of taking our hometowns for granted. And agree, that area is really diverse and interesting. I've been to the College Hill Coffee shop a few times, and over to Mt. Airy forest nearby. But overall, there's plenty of things to see and do around here that I haven't yet done.