1984 Crusier For Sale: What is it worth? What to look for Check past basics

redthies

redthies

Renaissance Redneck
That looks great! I've had a couple of '84s, although both being diesel 5 speeds. They always make me smile when I see one. The rust is not too bad on that one in my opinion, and $2k is a fine price if you are happy. The nay sayers tend to live in Az or Ca where rust really doesn't exist, and they have a big gene pool to pick from. You used to be able to get proper weld in rockers for the 60s from Manafre, TLC or Specter. Not sure if they are still available, but if not, I've also cut big sections out of junkyard rigs and welded them in too. Love the color, and looking forward to seeing what you do with it!
 
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usnrigger

Observer
wow, yeah you did. My truck was actually build Nov 1983 but looks like it was titled as a 1984. How many miles yours have? and what did you pay if you don't mind me asking? I think only difference I see is the AC packages

On a side note, ordered shifter knob and AC today. also probably get a knuckle kit on order. Need to work on battery set as the current terminal clamps are loose and corroded. It has a decent battery in it, thought about going to a Die Hard Platinum but why waste a battery, I will go that route down the road.
 
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usnrigger

Observer
Very nice, I would be very happy as well less mileage and looks like less rear quarter rust from photo. I agree they are growing In popularity.

I will be giving Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters a call as soon as some money comes in from selling some other stuff.

Need to address the battery cable issue first off, as is loose enough that some times it does not make contacts. going to just build up new cables with to work with military clamps and boots. are most guys upgrading to 4 or 2 AWG to compliment the larger batteries?
 
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usnrigger

Observer
Kurt, thanks. I called today and one of the other guys helped me out, really helped me.

I will be getting a knuckle kit from you as well as wheel bearings and maybe to clips to do the flip. Ive never gone that far in so we will see. probably also do new or upgraded brake lines while im in there. anything else I should consider when I do all these other things.

Right now im in the process of getting general maintenance done and today I ordered the military battery terminals and made a set of 2/0 cables to use. I have some 2/0 left over from a battery relocation on a past project. also pulled the tray and had a local shop sand blast it so I can shoot a zinc primer and then lay some good paint over that. filters, oil, fluids and cleaning is the name of the game right now. I will also be looking at replacing some of the vacuum lines as they look pretty brittle

after all this, I will do the knuckles and after that a OME kit, then start in on fixing the rust.

Also, has anyone fixed rebuild the front seat belts? the passenger doesn't retract very well and the driver side buckle plastic loop broke off? thought about throwing new ones in but only found grey and they are kinda pricey in the general sense

Cables, will be using military clamps terminals and boots
 
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1911

1911

Expedition Leader
From the photos it looks like you got a great deal to me, if it runs at all. Solid basis for a good build. And my favorite Cruiser color too! Congratulations and have fun with your build.
 
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usnrigger

Observer
Well, alittle update:

I have checked all the fluids as far as PS, PB, Clutch, Coolant and Oil. Dumped some Sea Foam in the Engine and Fuel. I will run the engine another 100 miles and then change it out with fresh filter(OEM or Wix) and 15w-40 Shell. I have 2 air filter on order on to change out and one on hand. I tuned the carb as per manuals as it ideal was 1500rpm. The battery tray is been sand blasted, primed and painted. Battery cables are installed using Military Terminals. I still need to make a engine to frame and a second battery to body jumper ground but its good for now. I went and cleaned and re-installed the door welting as it was sagging pretty bad in the corners. all plastics and seals have been reconditioned.

Things I have ordered:
Dome light lens
Cargo light assembly
Shift Knob
AC belt
VCV valve - it had electrical tape wrapped around it, figured that was a key in to a new one


I need to look as the Passanger window as its damn near impossible to roll down. looking to re-run all or most of vacuum lines but need to look and see what I want to run and how much I will need. I will propably go in and clean the engine bay to get all the dirt, oil and grease out of it so I can easily see anything else going on. power steering still has a whining that I will look into.

Next large stages:

- I will be ordering the Knuckle rebuild kit from Kurt soon, as well as some other stuff to do while im in there.

- Ill start looking at what I want to do the interior in, I was a parachute rigger so I can sew and have done some upholstery work in the past. Im thinking Marine Vinyl with cloth, or Cordura. I would like to stay period so most likely the vinyl cloth combo. Carpet I will just buy a kit for atleast the front and middle, the rear cargo area may get a drawer storage setup so I may just put closed cell foam and some marine carpet in as most of it will get covered up anyway. doors will get redone as well. headliner is good to go. has anyone run the dash cap? from who good bad, feedback wanted?

- OME heavy suspension will go in after all this and then the wheel and tire swap. 1" spacers, Tacoma 16x7 steel wheels repainted in crème color with 255/86/16 Cooper S/T's or Toyo M55's.

- Rust repair will come after this with either a partial or full repaint depending on money situation at time. Color will stay same as original, and I have some friends of friends that can pin stripe so that will go back on as well.

- At that point it should be pretty solid both suspension, mechanically and body. so I will build a rear bumper with tire carrier and extras. the front I will just go with ABR or like as they are pretty basic and not a lot I can add by making my own, but I may just to save some money. the safari/roof rack will also be make by me as I would like to set it up for my needs and likes. past this the only thing that may be added is onboard air and a power inverter. Recovery gear will all come in between this in stages. jack, straps, sand boards, wench ext...

Im going to try and keep things looking like a 1980s expo truck. thought about running mahogany on the roof rack? thoughts?
 
Ridge Runner

Ridge Runner

Delta V
Something I forgot to mention that you need to check out is the oil galley plug. On the right side of the head, between I think the 5th and 6th spark plugs and slightly above is a plug that was pressed in at the factory. Sooner or later, they tend to pop out after enough heat cycles and you'll lose your oil in a hurry. If it hasn't already been replaced with a set screw or bolt, I would recommend that you do so. You can find some write-ups on IH8MUD, but I should be able to answer any questions you have about it.

I'm not following you on the mahogany roof rack. I've never seen anybody use wood up there, for a multitude of reasons.

I just saw where you edited your post with more pictures. That paint chip with the color code, is the code in a three digit format (123) or alphanumeric format (1A2)? If it's three numbers, that is the code for your lock cylinders when you have your keys made. If it's a number, a letter, and a number, then it is indeed your paint code. I ask because that tag looks suspiciously like what comes on your key ring with the key code engraved.

Get some silicone spray to lube the rubber window runs with. Pull the door panels off at some point and grease the window regulator with chassis grease. One of the best things you can do to an old vehicle like this is to get a spray can of white lithium grease and lube all of the neglected hinges and latches (hood latch, door hinges and stops, inside your door lock cylinders, door latches, the hinges on your door handles, etc). It will make it so much easier to open/shut/lock your doors.

If you decide you want to keep this truck for a long time and really enjoy driving it, you can get the H55 5 speed transmission for about $2100 from the dealership. However, being an '84 model, you would have to make some slight alterations to install it.

I really can't offer any interior advice without seeing what it looks like.
 
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usnrigger

Observer
key chip has the factory color of paint covering a code Xxxxx I think.


older cars had a metal frame with wood slats running length wise, mahogany sealed with SPAR is some tough stuff. don't know if I will go that route but thought it would be touch of old class.


Also looking right now at going through the steering setup


been looking at a lot of the things over on the other forum referenced, so its giving me lots of good info and ideas

I read about the plug modification and will read up on it and get that performed.


probably wont worry about the trans upgrade, until down the road if the trans poops out for whatever reason and its becomes a reason to do so.


white lithium has already been deployed
 
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Ridge Runner

Ridge Runner

Delta V
usnrigger said:
key chip has the factory color of paint covering a code K0124 I think.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's your key code if you ever want to get any cut at the dealership. This can also be found on the lock cylinder in the right-front door.

usnrigger said:
older cars had a metal frame with wood slats running length wise, mahogany sealed with SPAR is some tough stuff. don't know if I will go that route but thought it would be touch of old class.


Also looking right now at going through the steering setup


been looking at a lot of the things over on the other forum referenced, so its giving me lots of good info and ideas

I read about the plug modification and will read up on it and get that performed.


probably wont worry about the trans upgrade, until down the road if the trans poops out for whatever reason and its becomes a reason to do so.


white lithium has already been deployed
Click to expand...

Good man.
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
The documentation you scored along with the purchase is cool!

The K-code tag is in fact your key code, a dealer (or a good Cruiser shop :D) can cut a key based on that code, might want to strike it from the internets :D
 
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