NPS slowly emerges

[Alastair D(Aus)]

Well despite my embarrassment at how long it has taken me I am finally prepared to show some shots of my build. Pls ignore the dates on the pictures as it shows how long things have taken due to life events beyond my control.

In 2012 I purchased a 2007 Isuzu NPS300 which had only ~60,000km and was in excellent mechanical condition. It had a few cosmetic blemishes and had no signs of abuse.

As usual there was lots of initial enthusiasm and I got to work with some timber to design the sub frame

Next made some spring mounts. 3 on each side with fish plates, rigid plates, at the rear.

It was then identified that my wife who is somewhat vertically challenged could not get into the cab so a simple aid was constructed. It does require the driver to remove and store it. A more sophisticated system may eventuate but it works for now.


I usually start early and find some friends having munchies on the front lawn before the sun has come up.

Unfortunately there are some smaller versions too.

The sub frame eventually got done with 3 water tanks and a grey water tank mounted low down and positioned to keep the balance. I have also got rid of the single, small round fuel tank on the driver's (RHS) side and replaced it with 2 rectangular ones from an FM115 (I think), one on each side. Each holds ~180L which gives us what we need for our remote area travels.


When I came to make the battery box I decided that the 450AH of AGMs was just too heavy for the usable capacity it gave me, so I changed to using LiFeP04 (LFP) which can be used to 20% SOC and are less than half the weight. The prices have come down and are now a viable alternative if looked at in the long term.


Continued in the next post as I find I can only have 10 pictures per post.

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

build continued

The other side of the truck showing balanced lockers and tanks

A lot of work went into building lockers, tanks mounts etc but is not worth showing detail. Eventually we got to the stage of building the box from poly composite panels. 2mm FG each side of 3M foam in the centre. The walls are 30mm thick, the floor and roof are 40mm. The floor also has a 9mm layer of plywood to give it added strength and avoid crushing the foam due to walking and pounding of heavy items. The front was relatively easy as we could lift it.


The sides were too heavy and we rigged up a crane using a big gum tree, a couple of snatch blocks (pulleys) and used the winch on our 100 series Landcruiser. We used a suction cup holder to do the lift.
The second side was easy as we had learnt how to do it with the first.

The day finished too soon and the weather report was not good so we clamped up the corners and covered the partial box for the night. The dog was not impressed!


The next day was better and we got the back wall up without drama. We had to use a rope clamp to squash the middle as there was a slight bow. Now we had a box with no entry and no roof. I did not want to cut the full doorway until the rof was on because I was worried about the wall cracking as there would be very little left above the door. I cut a small entry the right widh for the door but only 1/3 the height.

Other things like our new house build intervened and it was about 2 weeks before we got back to preparing the roof. Six 100w monocrystalline panels to provide for low light days and ability to make the most use of what is available. I wanted the minimum number of holes in the roof but we decided that a skylight/vent over the shower/toilet was necessary. We will have the shower in the entry way and the toilet on a slide which comes out into the entry for use. Yes there will be a screen.


We now have rain and the forecast is for more over the next few days. I will start putting the Al angle into the inside corners once I have everything ready to put the roof on. The rain makes it hard to do anything.

Once the roof is on, external trim finished, internal corners done, then I can start the fit out. We have all the gear in the garage and it is nice to see the pile of boxes reduce. I guess the windows will be first so we can have some fresh air and light whilst we work.

Another update when progress has been made.

 

[Czechsix]

That tire step idea is terrific.....you've got lots of good ideas there. Looking forward to seeing it done, and seeing the adventures to come.

 

[4x4coaster]

Congratulations on your build progress!

what AH size is your LFP battery and is it 12 or 24v?

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

My battery bank is 320ah @ 12v. I originally intended to use agm and bought quite a few 12v items. After making the change to lfp I felt that I had too much tied up in 12v gear to go to 24v. In retrospect I made a few bad decisions, especially since the truck is 24v.

The 320 ah lfp drained to 20% soc is equivalent to 512ah agm @ 50%. The weight difference is more than half.

I am not putting in gas so I am using electric or diesel as my power source. Heating and hot water is diesel. I have induction hot plates and a microwave, but a portable outside gas bbq so I am cheating a little. I have done quite a bit of testing so it will be interesting to see if my estimates are right.

Ps I did not want a diesel cooktop because of the slow heat up and cool down which is not good in the warm/hot Australian climate, putting too much heat into the cabin.

 

[dlh62c]

View attachment 290588

Great idea on the steps. Knowing me I'd drive off after forgetting to remove them.

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

I have tried to design something to go where the factory fitted step is but that is far too close to the door hinges and makes it near impossible to get in. Actually if you tie a piece of chord to the top of the wheel step the passenger can pull it up after them. It will go behind the seat but I think I will be expected to be the doorman. Fortunately I do not yet need an aid and can still pull myself up. A couple more years will make the difference I expect.

 

[blackduck]

Great idea on the steps. Knowing me I'd drive off after forgetting to remove them.

of course you realise this means youve committed yourself to opening every gate
another option get a taller wife, I thought about that with mine but she just wouldnt go.
get her off to the gym for some limbering exercises, watching mine get in the cab is always a laugh and cheap entertainment
was thinking about some tread plates to go on the wheel studs like you use to see on old bedfords etc. still have them on some cab over prime movers
gives her something to step on and you dont have to get out of the cab your self

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

of course you realise this means youve committed yourself to opening every gate
another option get a taller wife, I thought about that with mine but she just wouldnt go.
get her off to the gym for some limbering exercises, watching mine get in the cab is always a laugh and cheap entertainment
was thinking about some tread plates to go on the wheel studs like you use to see on old bedfords etc. still have them on some cab over prime movers
gives her something to step on and you dont have to get out of the cab your self

I asked at a truck place about those and was told that in NSW anything that stuck out beyond the rim or nuts was illegal.

I am still thinking hard for the reasons you say.

 

[Czechsix]

Unimogs and Pinz's have had those hub steps for years. I remember some of us discussed them a while back for FG's, maybe it's time to do them. I've also thought about running a hydraulic lift as an elevator, or even a linear or screw....

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

Unimogs and Pinz's have had those hub steps for years. I remember some of us discussed them a while back for FG's, maybe it's time to do them. I've also thought about running a hydraulic lift as an elevator, or even a linear or screw....

My current 'bright idea' is along the line of a jack that was with my mother's car 50 years ago. It was simply a screw thread in a tube with an arm that stuck out at right angles through a split in the tube and was slipped into a hole in the car. When you turned a handle at the top the captive nut raised or lowered the arm, so jacking the car. I thought something like that in the space where the factory step is. When a motor is started first the arm would swing out and stop against the wheel and then the captive nut would lower it down. Person stands on arm and reverses the motor. Arm rises and enables person to get in. When the arm reaches the top a limit switch stops it. Press another switch and the arm swings in as the captive nut has reached the top of the thread with say a nylon bush to stop binding. Hopes this makes sense. I plan a prototype when I have a completed truck, for now the wheel step will have to do.

 

[4x4coaster]

What are you using to integrate 12, 240, 600w solar & charging?

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

charging strategy

What are you using to integrate 12, 240, 600w solar & charging?

My solution is not optimal because I bought some gear when I planned to use AGM batteries. Had I bought the gear after making the decision for LiFeP04 (LFP) I would probably centred more around Victron equipment. Having said that I am happy that my current solution will allow me to use what I have (I can't afford to scrap it) and give a good result. Also, doing it again I would go 24v rather than 12v because I have now made the decision to go no gas, only electric and diesel.


The truck is 24v and to keep the start batteries topped up when mains is available I have a CTEK XT4000 which is 4A @ 24v.
http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/product/4644/ctek-mxt4.0-(xt4000).html


To charge the 12v LFP house bank from the engine I am using a Redarc BCDC1240 which will take input from either a 12v or 24v source and output to 12v at a maximum of 40A.
http://www.redarc.com.au/products/product/in-vehicle-battery-charger-40a
I have tested this into my batteries and it delivers the full 40 nicely. It has settings for a range of battery types but not LFP. I want to limit the bulk/absorption voltage to 14.0 but the inbuilt settings are higher. I could still use the AGM setting but I am using an Invertek programmable battery switch to shut the BCDC off at a lower voltage of my choosing. I also have a high current relay to disconnect the start batteries from the DCDC when the engine is off.
http://www.richelectric.com.au/product_view.php?id=4


The Redarc unit has an input for solar panels and incorporates an MPPT regulator which worked well under test. Unfortunately the charge modes function separately and after I made the decision to go no gas I figured I needed to maximise my charge rate and be able to charge from the panels and alternator at the same time. I have a Victron MPPT 75/50 which will handle the full output of my panels, can be paralleled if I need more capacity in future, works happily in parallel with the BCDC, has LFP settings and is fully programmable anyway. I am configuring my six panels as 3 pairs. Two panels in series giving ~40v and the 3 pairs in parallel. Why? I wanted to have the panels able to tolerate different levels of shade over the roof but also keep working in low light conditions. Having the 6 panels in parallel would give the best shade tolerance but not as good for low light. The pairing also reduces the total panel current. I did seriously consider buying six small MPPT controllers so each panel was optimized separately but decided I was getting carried away.
http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Blue-Solar-Charge-Controller-overview-EN.pdf


The Redarc BCDC MPPT controller gives me some redundancy in case of a failure on the road. I will build in a simple way to switch over in the hopefully unlikely event.


My 240v side is centred on an Invertek Supercombi 1500/12.
http://www.rich-electric.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Brochure-of-SuperCombi.pdf
http://www.richelectric.com.au/product_view.php?id=2


The model I chose has a 1500w continuous inverter with a toroidal transformer that comfortably gives 3000w surge and will easily start and run my 240v a/c, induction cooktop and microwave, not at the same time. It has a built in 70A charger that will come on whenever 240v is available. The unit is totally programmable and can handle the seamless changeover from mains to inverter, top up from the inverter if the mains feed is low etc. For example if using a small generator that has a maximum of say 4A but running an appliance that has a higher draw it will support that via the inverter. It can know the difference between a generator and mains connection and have separate maximum allowable currents. It also monitors the quality of the 240v input and will change over to battery if it falls outside preset limits. A nice safeguard in remote areas. The unit will shutdown if battery voltages exceed limits, temperatures are too high, power draw high etc. All programmable.


I will also have the usual LED lighting etc to be efficient.


I do have a 240v a/c but expect to use it rarely as we are outside types, but have it in case of those warm humid nights which make sleep hard. Our heating and hot water is via a Webasto diesel unit.


I have a Projecta 1000w inverter as a reserve since I bought it before my mindset change and I got the Supercombi.


Lots of battery monitor and other smart gear as I like to tinker.


Ask if I have not explained what you want to know.

 

[Motiracer38]

I asked at a truck place about those and was told that in NSW anything that stuck out beyond the rim or nuts was illegal.

I am still thinking hard for the reasons you say.

It sounds like the simple solution is to get longer wheel nuts.

 

[Alastair D(Aus)]

We have a roof

Well after the previous spurt of productivity we had a week or so of rain and then some business to attend to. Last weekend we managed to lift the roof up with the solar panels etc and position it above the box walls so we could lower it without damaging the edges or our fingers. Again the 4wd winch, trees and blocks did the job well with some careful prior thought re the potential for slippage etc.

Found that although the sides of the roof were correct, we had managed to create the box walls just out of square and hence it did not fit. Some aerial trimming with a cordless hacksaw did the job and it slotted home. The fit was not perfect but with the glue we were using (Henkel Terostat 939, German equivalent of Sika 252), the 90 x 90 x 5 mm external corners and the 50 x 50 x 2mm internal corners I think it is still very strong. In fact the rebated corners where a high proportion of the joint is to the foam core, relies on the Al angle for its strength. We did not scrimp on the glue and are happy to waste a bit to get a strong waterproof join. I was a bit slow to tidy up the oozes and have good proof how strong and well stuck it is as I try to pretty things up without damaging the FG surface.

Now we have a box, gnome entry and all is ready for cutting the full door and windows ready for the internal fit out.

Not pretty but it looks like an expedition vehicle at last. Once the windows and door are in we will put some vinyl wrap graphics on the sides which will break up the slab look and also protect the surface from scratching in the scrub.



will post again when more progress has been achieved.