Roof or camper shell

[JMacs]

Since I can’t seem convince the pretty one in my relationship to reduce the amount of cr..., excuse me, needed stuff, we take on our road-trips, I am going to get a roof top cargo box. My question is whether to mount the rails to the roof of the truck? Or to mount it to the camper shell on the back? The roof top will be the temporary Yakima / Thule mounting system. The camper shell will be the permanently mounted rails screwed to the fiberglass. I have a 2004 Tacoma DoubleCab with a Glasstite camper shell.

Seems to me that mounting the box to the roof would be more stable and would distribute the load front to back better. But I see a lot of people mounting it to the camper shell. Is there an advantage that I am not thinking about? Better aerodynamics? Are the temporary roof mounts more of a pain to take on and off? Do they wear at your paint after a while? Is one easier to load / unload? Is it just a chance to permanently mount the rails to your shell that gives you a chance to play with power tools and your truck?

Yakima or Thule box will depend on which I can get a better deal on Craig’s List. I haven’t seen a compelling argument to go with one over the other. The both seem equally well loved.

And if anyone has any advice like “I bought this and I am happy with it, but now I wish I would have …”, please feel free to throw that into the mix as well.

 

[AFBronco235]

You're worried about aerodynamics when you're already driving something that has the aerodynamics of a brick?

Actually, the reason for mounting a rack on the camper shell is simpler. You can put on a bigger rack and spread the load out further. I wouldn't put more than 150 lbs. on it, but its better than having it on top of the cab. Also, if you mount it on the cab, and you can whistling, you will hear it right though the cab mounts, temporary or not. There is also the paint damage you hit on earlier.

One other advantage in permanently mounting a roof rack on a camper shell is that it can actually make it easier to remove the shell and even store it if you don't mind getting a little creative with some rope and pulleys.

 

[JMacs]

There is no doubt that the Tacoma didn't spend a lot of time in the wind tunnel!

But I thought maybe people might have had some bad experiences with the front of the box lifting since it was sticking out a little the front, versus a ways back from the windshield. I know I have seen that in the past with the older plastic boxes strapped to peoples' roofs. Wasn't sure if that was an issue.

Has anyone had any luck with the Aero bars reducing the whistling? Or are those just a pretty option?

 

[rayra]

it will be better back on the shell, out of the 'bow wave' of air cresting the windshield. But it will be easier to get into if you can stand in the door sill. They make nice folding steps that can hook over the top of your rear tires though, work even better than a silppery door sill.

 

[KAkers]

I had some mounted on the cab of my Silverado and hated it. It kept the doors from making a good seal around them. Yes it would have taken off paint on mine. I mounted mine on the shell. I have a set of new in the box tracks I need to sell, I went with just mounting feet on the corners.

 

[robert]

I've got an older Yakima Spacebooster that I use on my Yakima rack that's mounted on my camper shell. As noted, by putting it further back you can use a larger box and it's a bit more out of the slipstream. I've got sliders with kickouts on my truck which make it easier to access. The newer (more expensive) boxes are nicer in that you can have them open from either side- curbside is great until you put things like a sixteen foot kayak on top. Personally I prefer the longer overhanging loads on the passenger side as I don't find it as distracting as when it's sticking out over me.

 

[JMacs]

Thanks for the replies. I guess it is time to learn how to drill through fiberglass with out screwing up the paint. Or having the liner wrap itself around the drill bit. (I know carpet does that if you drill through the floor. Don't know if the liner will do that.)

 

[robert]

Yes, the camper shell liner will wrap around the drill bit. Either use a drill bit stop http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=drill+bit+stop or put a piece of tape around the bit where you want it to stop. I put a piece of duct tape under the area to catch the fiberglass debris as the bit comes through the hole.

Yakima makes a mounting kit for fiberglass camper shells that includes large diameter nuts that you hand tighten. You can see them in the bottom left of this photo:
http://www.yakima.com/shop/racksystems/permanent-installation/landing-pad-6

Place blue painters tape on the area where you want to mount the rails. This will keep the paint from getting scratched, it gives you something to mark on and it helps keep the fiberglass from cracking. You want to install the rails outside of the thicker honeycomb part of the top- the honeycomb part is usually some form of cardboard and cranking down on the nuts can collapse it and you will have to check the tightness more often. Place the rails on the shell and measure at least twice- note that there is curvature in the shell so you may need to take that into consideration in order to keep the rails parallel. Tape off the lines and mark your spots for the bolts. Remove the rails. Using new sharp bits, drill small pilot holes then increase the size of the bits until you are using one that is the correct diameter for whatever bolts you are using. [Some folks recommend using a step bit but when I use them on projects I have a harder time limiting depth and often end up with a countersink type hole so I wouldn't recommend them for this project.]

No matter which sealant you use make sure you clean the area very well; there is no need to goop the stuff in, just make sure it's well coated. Lots of folks prefer the 3M marine sealant over silicon as it's easier to reseal if you ever need to. I used silicon and mine's been on since 2006 with no issues so far.

 

[JMacs]

Robert, thanks for all the tips. I agree, the step bits don't quite seem like the right tool for the job. And I need an excuse to buy a new set of drill bits ��

 

[daddyusmaximus]

Thanks for the replies. I guess it is time to learn how to drill through fiberglass with out screwing up the paint. Or having the liner wrap itself around the drill bit. (I know carpet does that if you drill through the floor. Don't know if the liner will do that.)

Yes... it will. At least it did on me. Good thing is it's easy to cut out the twisted part. I thought of putting my rack on the cab, but am glad I went with the camper shell mount. I lost one of the towers on my Thule system I used at first when a tree branch was scraping down the roof on a trail. Now drilled and mounted directly is is more sturdy, and a good 4 or 5 inches lower. I also added the extra center section making my rack larger, and a better fit to the shell. (Yakima Mega Warrior and extension.)

 

[Crom]

I installed a vent in my fiberglass shell. Full custom. It came out very well. Did a full write up on tacomaworld.com. It may help you, I posted lots of pics every step of the way.

 

[JMacs]

Cool. Thanks.

On a similar note. I have seen some posts with people talking about the Thule boxes being a little picky about the latches. You have to line them up just right to get it to close. Any similar issues with Yakima?