heat and sound insulation

az_eric

New member
Ok so on my 75 blazer there is a lot of noise and heat in the cab. Obviously doesn't help that i have no carpet and all the gaskets and seals are missing or bad. I will be replacing the seals and gaskets eventually. But I am looking for the best way to keep the cab cool and quiet.*
Right now I am working on getting the ac working bought all new components. I have resealed the ac box on the engine side completely to keep the air where it needs to be. Next I will be pulling the inside air box apart and resealing all the vents ect because air flow from the vents is not great.*
So I figured while I have the air box out it might be a good time to put some sounds deadening heat insulation back in there...all the factory stuff is gone.*

This truck will be getting a 6.2/6.5 engine in it eventually so I know those are loud. When I do the swap I will be wanting to cover the engine side of the fire wall to help as well. So what materials will help make this a more comfortable ride. Also being a full vert I've never seen any headliner on these trucks. Is there any way or anything to put on the top to reduce the head coming in. Keep in mind I live in Phoenix and it gets hot.
 

Scrapdaddy

Adventurer
Look up Lizard Skin. It's a spray on sound deadener and a ceramic heat control. I used it inside and out on my Land Cruiser. If it works good on the road as it does banging on a fender, should be nice and quite. The ceramic insulation states it reduces temps. by 30 degrees.
 

az_eric

New member
i've heard of the lizard skin stuff before sounds pretty good. You guys have any recommendations on how to insulate the hard top fiberglass roof?
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
Lizard Skin is way too much money and this is pretty much the same stuff and it worked great on 2 projects for me....way cheaper also
http://www.hytechsales.com/prodsc.html

I have a 70 Burb and I also did up a Landcruiser Troopy with the same process...

1) Strip the interior and clean, clean, clean....Simple Green is great for this.
2) Deal with any rust issues with Rust Bullet, POR-15 or whatever
3) Paint the Latex/Microsphere Hytech stuff in on the prepped metal...is has a rough texture when dry but plenty durable
4) Get a cheap spray gun from Harbor Freight and a gallon contact cement from an upholstery place
5) Spray on the glue and roller on FatMat...ebay version of Dynamat...I personally have never used the Peel n'Stick stuff but heard good things
6) Spray on glue over the FatMat and lay down Home Depot/Lowes Reflextec or whatever the alum covered bubble wrap is
7) Put in your carpet or rubber flooring...or replace your door/side panels.

I drove my vehicles at each stage of the process and it was amazing the difference each time and with all three it is very impressive.

Living in Arizona keeping the heat out in the summer or in during the winter makes my old rig sooo much nicer.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
peel and stick butyl rubber window flashing, for sound. no muss, no fuss, no stink no high cost of pro bedliner goop.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ling-and-heavy-gage-power-lines-under-vehicle

butyl05_zpseftvf2lj.jpg




LMC Truck - http://www.lmctruck.com/ - has floor insulating mats and some generic sound mat material that you can cut to fit, as well as many fitted pieces specifically for what you want to do. That includes a plastic headliner. I've also got a steel ceiling in my '85 C-10 and have long looked at that, thinking to coat / insulate the metal and put up a proper headliner.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=97
 

az_eric

New member
The only issue with a proper headliner is there never was one for 73-75 blazers. I also believe there was no a b or c pillar trim hold it up. Ive seen that the jeep guys have a company that make a specialized head liner for them that supposedly cuts the heat and noise but nothing for the k5 guys.
 

az_eric

New member
Lizard Skin is way too much money and this is pretty much the same stuff and it worked great on 2 projects for me....way cheaper also
http://www.hytechsales.com/prodsc.html

I have a 70 Burb and I also did up a Landcruiser Troopy with the same process...

1) Strip the interior and clean, clean, clean....Simple Green is great for this.
2) Deal with any rust issues with Rust Bullet, POR-15 or whatever
3) Paint the Latex/Microsphere Hytech stuff in on the prepped metal...is has a rough texture when dry but plenty durable
4) Get a cheap spray gun from Harbor Freight and a gallon contact cement from an upholstery place
5) Spray on the glue and roller on FatMat...ebay version of Dynamat...I personally have never used the Peel n'Stick stuff but heard good things
6) Spray on glue over the FatMat and lay down Home Depot/Lowes Reflextec or whatever the alum covered bubble wrap is
7) Put in your carpet or rubber flooring...or replace your door/side panels.

I drove my vehicles at each stage of the process and it was amazing the difference each time and with all three it is very impressive.

Living in Arizona keeping the heat out in the summer or in during the winter makes my old rig sooo much nicer.

Did you do anything to the firewall area. this is the area I want to work on first seeing as how I need to fix some holes in the floor board and I'm going to be taking out the ac box to reseal. I can imagine spraying would be a tough time with all the wires and steering and pedals in the way.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
I did everything I posted to every bit of metal I could get to...
Firewall, reached up and even did underside of metal dash
Inside my doors
Metal roof....I still have the bubble wrap shinny stuff showing on my roof as it reflects light so well at night when camping :) And I am too lazy or concerned to try and glue some cloth up there to cover it all.

Has held up a few years now to crazy Phoenix heat, miles and miles of washboard in Baja and I would do it all again just the same.
 

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