Project LRDG - 1984 FJ60 Land Cruiser -

Ridge Runner

Ridge Runner

Delta V
usnrigger said:
Well, had a nice day today. Hot but nice with just the right amount of wind to make it not seem so bad. I went ahead and pulled it under a tree for some shade that did not last long and started taking all the air cleaner and hoses off to get to the valve cover. I did the method with the truck not running. Once I got the flywheel cover off I marked the line with white out. I bumped the starter with the truck in 4th gear and made many trips under the truck to see how close I was getting. once it was close I used a long heavy screw driver to crank it till the mark lined up. did the first set of 6 and then did the same bumping and screwdriver technic to get it rotated 360 and back to the mark. All of them were out of tolerance but nothing major, got them all set double checked and tightened the lock bolt and then double checked yet again.
Click to expand...

The easiest way I've found to do it is to have the vehicle in a level area where it won't roll off, put it in 4th gear, and gently push the 60 forward or backward with your body while looking at the timing mark. No fuss, no muss with the starter and accidentally bumping it too far.

Valve cover looks great!
 
U

usnrigger

Observer
I did actually try that, but I was on gravel and I think that was fighting me too much to get it to make any progress.
 
U

usnrigger

Observer
Well, ordered the 2 Firestone Destination A/T's today as well as some Amsoil Off road Grease for the knuckle rebuild. I was going to order gear lube for the differential but just going to use Lucas Oil as my thinking and the way I maintain my things I will change the diff, transmission and transfer oil on a normal basis and I don't really see the cost balance in buying the more expensive stuff, also it not carried in most places so If I wanna top off and stay the same id rather have a good easily found lube. The knuckles are not a easy thing to service, yes I can add grease from the fill plug, but i cant change it with out tearing it all apart. I wanna those guys that still changes oil every 3000 miles but most tell me that modern oil will go 5000 if not more, i had 3000 engrained in my head by my dad so ill keep it my way
 
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usnrigger

Observer
wanted to post this up to see if anyone had any ideas past mine.

After the valve adjustment i noticed in the morning with i start her she starts up easier, but also doesn't want to hold idle and just wants to fall and die. Basically i give it 3 pumps and hold to floor, turn key and she catching very quickly, but when i let off the pedal she drops to 800rpms and ten just starts going down. If i try staring her again and then hold the pedal at 1500rpms for a 15-20 seconds shes fine.

I figured after the valve adjustment i need to go back and fully tune the carb. I make sure all vacuum lines are hooked back up after valve adjustment. Any other thoughts. Also i looked online to see what other ways people are tunning the carb, what are you guess doing? Vacuum, RPM - Lean Loss ext...? Do i need to look at putting in new jets? i may just do a carb rebuild if the kits are not pricey
 
Ridge Runner

Ridge Runner

Delta V
Unfortunately, I don't really have an answer for you, but mine did the same thing after adjusting my valves. I want to rebuild the carb (a simple adjustment didn't quite seem to work) and redo all of the vacuum lines that have been mixed up or removed by previous owners. Unfortunately, the current project in my garage has dragged on months longer than I anticipated and I haven't been able to get the 60 in to fix that and other issues.
 
U

usnrigger

Observer
Well, i double checked all vacuum lines as far as being connected, i think i got them all. I think its in my carb, i found a wet are on the long shaft down by idle screw, wonder if a seal has a leak. When i was checking vacuum lines i found one off, and put it back it didn't seem to make a instant improvement but after it ran for a while it helped the roughness at idle. I will keep at it and see what i can come up with. Its not a huge problem right now just after its sat over night and it takes a min to warm up an then its good to go.

I gave the old girl a little polish with white compound. Made a dramatic difference and will get photos up after new tires are one that will be here tomorrow.

---I will grab a vacuum gauge tester and see where im sitting on that as well.
 
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Ridge Runner

Ridge Runner

Delta V
usnrigger said:
Well, i double checked all vacuum lines as far as being connected, i think i got them all. I think its in my carb, i found a wet are on the long shaft down by idle screw, wonder if a seal has a leak. When i was checking vacuum lines i found one off, and put it back it didn't seem to make a instant improvement but after it ran for a while it helped the roughness at idle. I will keep at it and see what i can come up with. Its not a huge problem right now just after its sat over night and it takes a min to warm up an then its good to go.

I gave the old girl a little polish with white compound. Made a dramatic difference and will get photos up after new tires are one that will be here tomorrow.

---I will grab a vacuum gauge tester and see where im sitting on that as well.
Click to expand...

Good deal. Let me know if you find anything, please. I really need to get me a vacuum gauge tester and a belt tension gauge. I know you don't plan on waiting that long, but just an FYI, it will get worse if it isn't fixed before it turns cold.
 
U

usnrigger

Observer
Okay, so it was a cool colorado morning and had rain early morning.

I went out to start, 3 pumps held 4th to floor it caught first turn but Rpms went to 500 and started to drop and die. This happened 3 more times before I could get her to keep running, it sputtered getting up to 1500rpms and held for 15 secs and then was fine idle held at 750 no problems after that.

I'm thinking it's in the fuel system, it's like it's taking a bit for the system to get fuel flowing normal

Well vacuum test was 13-14 in/hg
I'm @ 6500ft altitude here

Was able to get 15.5 by adjusting mix screw. Might look at timing as well.

What's normal vacuum for these guys?

Now what?
 
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kletzenklueffer

kletzenklueffer

Adventurer
usnrigger said:
On a side Note:
How does the steering wheel come off. I took the nut off but it didn't seem like it wanted to budge didn't know it it had a clip or trick to it. Need to fix the dreaded horn, I have my 22 casing cleaned and ready
Click to expand...


Ahhhh!! :wings: I thought my 22 case was an original. My son said I was such a redneck to stick a 22 case over the worn connector. Now I know it's Toyota tech.

I also used some .308 case to repair the broken thread shafts in the steering column clamshell.
 
U

usnrigger

Observer
Well, I read about it in another post as far as the 22 case. I figured for getting use of the horn id rather go shooting for the day than order a part.
--
I have, and I need to just go ahead and run through that. Its odd as it runs good the rest of the time, its just that first start up in the morning after it sits overnight.
--
Tires are installed, and tomorrow is picture day. So I will get new photos up of the progress tomorrow evening.
 
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