Project LRDG - 1984 FJ60 Land Cruiser -

[usnrigger]

I wanted to get a thread started to cover this project. I recently picked up a 1984 FJ60 Land Cruiser and im in the process of getting it mechanically sound as well as setup as a Expo truck. I will mainly be using this for running trails, camping, hunting and fishing. The long range road trip will also be on the ticket. this will be mostly my daily driver so dependability will be a need.

The basics:
- 1984 Toyota Land Cruiser "FJ60" Production Date was Late 1984
Color is Tan/Beige, it currently has just over 202,000 on the factory non-rebuild motor. Im the 3rd owner and it is a factory A/C wagon. The person I bought it from had all sorts of goodies: factory touch up paint, window sticker, key code, all the owners manuals and lots of maintenance records. the engine is till very strong and starts up easy. 2 years ago the past owner had some basic work done. Plugs changed, new cap and rotor with wires, the the gear oil was changed, transmission oil changed and basic service shop checked it over. I think its a really great find and it has come to a caring home. the bad, it is 31 years old and needs some general TLC, and the rust in the rear quarters. The rust is pretty much limited to this area and the rest of the truck only has light surface rust. I have started to go through and get the maintenance up to snuff.

Things I have knocked off the list so far:
- Battery Cables upgraded to 2/0 and Military terminals installed. All grounds are new as well
- All Grease Zerks have been serviced
- Oil Change 15w40 Mobil 1 w/new oil & air filter
- Replaced all exterior lights that needed it(Rear Side Markers L&R)
- New Wiper Blades
- Alternator belt Tightened (New OEM Belts on order)
- All window seals restored
- Door welting has been fixed, they were sagging In the corners
- White Lithium deployed on doors and any other place that could use
- Front Bumper corners removed, they were rusted and gone. New bumper will be made down road.
- Basic cleaning inside and making list of need and things to do.
- Carb Tuned


Things on the "to do list"
- Adjust valve lash - Gasket on order
- Front Knuckle Rebuild, Inner Seals
- Tie Rod/Drag Link Kit
- Front Brakes
- Oil Changed F/R Diff, Tranfer and Trans
- Braided Brake Lines
- Vacuum lines replaced
- OME Heavy/Heavy with Firm shocks
- Rust Repair with welded in panels
- Interior Re-Upholstered and rear cargo are installed
- 16x7 Tacoma Wheels w/FJ40 Hub Cap Clips welded on + Spacers
- Cooper Discover S/R 255/85r16 Tires x6
- Custom Front Bumper with swing out tire and carrier
- Custom Front Bumper with winch mount, trail lights and shackles
- Custom Roof Rack
- Full Repaint in factory color and the pinstriping put back on

----This is a growing list and not all inclusive, things like onboard air, and power inverter would be nice to and I just need to research before I put it on the list. I will try and document with photos and post, if I can I will post up how to's or cover step by step

I will be posting questions or advice from you guys as well here, stop by and see whats new.







The basic idea for me is to have a pretty much stock look with a few exception. Interior will be redone to look period/original, exterior kept pretty standard. Suspension will be gone through/rebuild. I will add a few personal touches to the paint when I have the guy do the pinstripe.

30 Day Plan: Knuckle Rebuild, Inner Seals, Tie Rod/Drag Links, Valve Lash Adjustment, Diff Fluid Changed, Im thinking about going ahead and getting a set of tires on it for the time being as it will probably be a year or so before I get the 16" wheel upgrade completed. Cooper makes a 30x9.5r15 that I think would run good on the stock suspension and wheels.

 

[txnight]

YEAH, another 60 on the forum. Looks like a great candidate for your rehab plans.

Have fun with it!

 

[jhanley]

I own your twin (minus A/C)! Of course, we all know, you have the best color!

Can't wait to see the progress.

 

[usnrigger]

Okay starting to look at what direction I will go for the interior. Like I said this will go in stages but the rear cargo area will come first as its easy and the largest area. I wanted to start looking at this as this is a great thing for me to be able to work on in between large other stages. Im looking at having the same vinyl with fabric as the factory setup was. I am thinking of changing the fabric to a tight pattern Newberry Plaid or Hound's-tooth Check in a brown & tan color. I was also thinking of changing the dark brown vinyl a lighter color. I need to get photos of the carpet, seats and door panels so I can start making my lay-outs. Might look at having "Land Cruiser", FJ60 or even the Toyota FEQ embroidered in a few spots to set things off nice.

You guys are welcome to throw up ideas. As im in the planning phase this weekend

On a side Note:
How does the steering wheel come off. I took the nut off but it didn't seem like it wanted to budge didn't know it it had a clip or trick to it. Need to fix the dreaded horn, I have my 22 casing cleaned and ready

the back washer is not spraying will look and see if motor is shot. you just push down and hold the rear wiper button to get the washer to work correct?

 

[98WhiteT4R]

The original paperwork and paint is awesome!

 

[jhanley]

plaid seats, in red, would be killer.

 

[Willman]

Nice 60!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...How does the steering wheel come off. I took the nut off but it didn't seem like it wanted to budge didn't know it it had a clip or trick to it. Need to fix the dreaded horn, I have my 22 casing cleaned and ready

If it hasn't been removed for quite some time, you'll likely need a steering wheel puller. You can rent one at AutoZone, Orielly, etc:

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The original paperwork and paint is awesome!

x2

 

[usnrigger]

Thanks again Kurt.

To update my 30 day plan, I put a order in today for Knuckle Kit, Tie Rod/Drag Link Kit, Inner Seal, Valve Cover Gasket, and some other small parts. Should be here Wed. Probably start in on the Valve Adjustment this weekend, and maybe the tie rod, drag link and knuckle.

 

[Bretthn]

Awesome 60. Cant wait to see your progress.

When I find the funds and time to start a project vehicle it will be a 60 series and hopefully I can find a good starting platform like yours.

 

[usnrigger]

I will do the valve lash this next weekend and the weekend of the 25th I will do the rest of it(Knuckles, Tie Rod/Drag Links and U joints). I will try to take lots of photos and do a nice write up.

--- On the Interior, I have found some options and will post samples up here later for you guys to consider. I like input but that doesn't mean I will go with your choice. it will be plaid though, ive found some with both a tan/brown base with blue as well as tan/brown with red.

--- Update 14 July - Tires, found 2 used Firestone Destination A/T 235/75r15 that are practically new still have blue on the white letters and nubs are not even worn off yet. I will probably go ahead and get 2 new ones to match and have a set of new tires for under $350.00 cant argue with that. Cant believe how hard it is to find a good set of used tires for 15" wheels, had to just about call everyone in the county.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

 

[usnrigger]

Goodies showed up today, need to get some tools wrangled and all the rags and grease.

It was hot today so I fixed the center console. The cup holder brackets on the bottom broke off as well as the side ones on the holder. I shaped new brakets out of derlin block and epoxied into place. The hole for the cable that stops the lid from traveling back was also busted blown out.

It was just to hot the slow down and take photos, I will do a write up on how I did the fix later tonight.


----- Okay, so im going to quickly go over how I fixed the center console as from the looks of things this could be a common problem. Yes, I know I could have just bought a tuffy but im cheap in some ways and it only cost me 5.00 for the epoxy.

---- So, the cup holder broke in three main places. The plastic brackets on the side that the two screws go into from on top, and the plastic mounting bracket under the console. the other spot that was broke is the hole that the bottom of the cable attaches to was cracked out. I will address the cup holder fix first.

Materials I used:
Plastic Epoxy 5min
PVC solid round - I have a bunch of this I purchased from a local machine shop that is just great for other stuff I do.
Johnsons Paste Wax - Epoxy release agent
Brown oil paint - borrowed from wife, but don't tell her
popsicle sticks
cardboard
Drill bits
10mm Brass - A 40S&W will work but we all know 10mm is better
modeling clay
Acetone

Tools:
Screw driver - Toyota Issue
Assorted files and sand paper
wood chisel
hack saw
belt sander
Dremel w/ sanding drum and large tooth burr
Grease pencil
Calipers 6"
Q-tips

- Cup holder fix, So basically used the dremel to remove any of the brackets so I had a nice flat surface, before I totally wiped them out I marked centers off to the side with a grease pencil. Once I did that I took some measurements with my calipers to find out the size of the blocks I would need to shape the Plastic into. I then just started going crazy with he belt sander till I came with two small blocks, I think they ended up .375"Wx.550"Dx.750"H - I also measured to inside and outside of the two spots for these blocks to fit into. At that point I just gave a quick wipe with acetone on a q-tip and mixed up my epoxy and affixed them to the side of the cup holder where they had been broken of using my center lines and measurements as reference to get them in the right spot. the bracket on the bottom was much the same way, but I just make a large block of the same height, use the unused non-US bracket right next to the broken one. Make a large block that fits between the metal bracket and is long enough to get both screw holes into and epoxy that one onto the bottom in the same manner as the others. This is a good time to have a beverage of choice and the epoxy dries up, 20min and you should be good. Then just put the cup holder onto the center console as it should fit and drill your holes. I put Johnson's paste wax on threads to lube it as the screws thread in for first time.

- Cable screw, I did this one way but hind sight I would have done it another way after the fact. I needed to keep the hole and not fill up the recessed area on the other side of hole. I used the 10mm auto brass case that fits into this recess perfectly, and I filled the case with modeling clay and used a drill bit of the right size to go through the hole and into the modeling clay to make a "form" (See Photo). Now the way I would suggest doing it is to make a dam with sheet metal that has a hole the same size as the drill bit and just fill up the area and be done. I kinda put the console at a angle and waited for the epoxy to get stiff and work it into place, it was just to thin and though it did work the sheet metal dam would have worked better and I may go back and do this. Coat the drill bit brass pistol case and clay with johsons paste wax before you pour in epoxy and let it dry a few min, its your release and after the epoxy dries it will not glue these things in and you can remove them. Make sure to wait 20min or so before you try and pull the "form" out as it needs to be pretty well set to do this. I dyed the epoxy using a very small amount of brown oil paint, it only takes a drop. after all this I just used a chisel to flatten the area and take the places the epoxy ran flat, hit it with 400grit paper to knock any corners off and your ready to go.


--Im sorry I didn't get any photos and if you have any questions, please ask. I know when I do these I tend to run on and I normally have to go back an edit over a few days to get it all worked out.

 

[usnrigger]

Valve Adjustment - Check

Well, had a nice day today. Hot but nice with just the right amount of wind to make it not seem so bad. I went ahead and pulled it under a tree for some shade that did not last long and started taking all the air cleaner and hoses off to get to the valve cover. I did the method with the truck not running. Once I got the flywheel cover off I marked the line with white out. I bumped the starter with the truck in 4th gear and made many trips under the truck to see how close I was getting. once it was close I used a long heavy screw driver to crank it till the mark lined up. did the first set of 6 and then did the same bumping and screwdriver technic to get it rotated 360 and back to the mark. All of them were out of tolerance but nothing major, got them all set double checked and tightened the lock bolt and then double checked yet again. Cleaning the valve cover took as much time as adjusting the valves if not more.
----- The moral of the story is that it made a huge difference with the tick tick sound, I kind of miss the old girl sounding like a old tractor but its better for her.
--
----- It took me the better part of 5-6 hours to do the whole thing and clean the valve cover, installed a new gasket as well. I would say if I did it again I could probably knock it out in 3 hours, no valve cover cleaning in that number. I would say a buddy would cut the getting the marks lined up much much easier. Sounds great, but the carb will need a re-tune as the idle is now 900rpm from my 750rpms I set the other day. I do have before and after videos but ive never posted videos and my have to figure out how to do that.
--
----- I will be doing the Knuckle, U-Joints, Tie Rod & Drag Links come the 25th weekend. I will probably order the other 2 tires this weekend and hopefully have them mounted before the knuckle job starts. Might fix the horn and replace some vacuum lines and hoses this weekend to keep it light, might squeeze in some fishing up in the mountains as well.

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-
- Here are some photos, and like I said I will try and post the videos after I find out how.





Before video:


After video: