Dalton Hwy/Denali Hwy 5/20/2015 Trip Report

Maverick1701

Adventurer
Alright guys I FINALLY have some free time to knock out a little write-up on my trip.

The Dalton really was not what I was expecting. I was looking forward to more of an "abandon hope all who pass" remote 4x4 challenge. The drive turned out to be fairly pleasant with road surfaces not unlike driving on my local county roads. I am glad I made the trip and can cross these two items off of my bucket list.... I can also cross Alaska off of my "visited states" list.

Flight up:
I left DFW and had layovers in Seattle and anchorage. Seattle airport was horrible. I do not recommend having a layover here. The Anchorage airport was clean, neat, and well designed. I was very impressed.

Day1:
I flew into Fairbanks, AK and arrived approx 7am AK time. I spent the day hanging with the Alaska State Troopers (A lot of those guys and I share the same law enforcement internet forum...that is how we met). One of the troopers showed me around town and gave me some tips for the Dalton Hwy (he patrols the Dalton so he is very knowledgeable on the subject). I also found out that the last 30miles of the Dalton was closed due to severe flooding from the early thaw (this would turn out to be a blessing as well as a little bit of a downer). On the down-side I would not be able to visit deadhorse. On the plus side, I pretty much had the dalton all to myself. I passed 3-5 trucks (most were grounded since they had nowhere to go) and just a handful of tourist vehicles on the entire trip.

I picked up my rental which was a 2003 F350 4x4 CC 6.0. Most rental car places will not allow their vehicles down gravel highways (for obvious reasons). If you choose to rent a vehicle to drive the Dalton, you have to find places who specialize in 4x4s....unfortunately I was unable to find a jeep rental place. Make sure you vehicle has a CB. CB comms make life on the dalton soooo much easier.

For dinner I recommend this touristy-trap place called "the great alaska salmon bake". Their prices are a little high but their food is awesome and everything is eat all you can (mostly seafood). The best part is on weekends they have crab on the menu...and I LOVE me some crab. They lost money on me. I ate crab for 3-ish hours...and I regret nothing!!!

I slept in Fairbanks that night at a cheapo $30 hostel (I didn't feel like springing for a full blown hotel only for one night). Fairbanks is still under the arctic circle so the sun still sets, but not for long. Sunset was around 1130pm. Sunrise was around 3am. It was a little odd seeing people out walking, running, visiting stores, etc at 11pm at night. This would be the last time I would see the sun set for 5 days.

Day2:
I left fairbanks and made my way to Coldfoot. On the way up I crossed the arctic circle. The Dalton was a mix of gravel, asphalt, and dirt. I passed several 2-wheel drive vehicles on my trip but I would NOT attempt the drive in a 2WD. There were several sections where my 4x4 definitely came in handy....especially on slick mud near sheer drop-offs/switch-backs.

My orig plan was to stay at the boreal lodge on the way up, deadhorse camp at the top and then coldfoot camp on the way down. Well due to the road closure I decided to stay the extra days at the boreal lodge in Wiseman (10mi from coldfoot camp). I recommend this place over coldfoot camp. Not only does this place charge $80/night (vs the $200/night @ coldfoot) but you wake up to running rivers and nature vs semi trucks and people at the coldfoot camp.

Day 3:
I left Wiseman and drove as far north as "the man" would let me. I made it 30 miles from Deadhorse when I hit the road closure. I picked up a rock (as a momento), snapped some pictures and headed back to Wiseman. There are no fuel stops between coldfoot and deadhorse so make sure you have plenty of fuel. The drive was BEAUTIFUL!!! The Brooks Range has several great photo ops w/sweeping roadways. I made it back to civilization and ate dinner at coldfoot camp. Coldfoot Camp has a full blown restaurant, post office, gym, fuel pumps, and obviously the hotel. I liked the food but it was truck-stop food. You are not going to find 5-star gourmet meals out here hahaha.

Day 4:
This was the day I had planned on driving back down from deadhorse to coldfoot camp. Due to the road closure I basically had a free day. I did a little exploring around the side-roads, and back roads off the dalton. I also met the Alaska Trooper stationed at the Coldfoot Camp. Nothing really important happened this day. I had pre-booked my coldfoot camp night and there was a huge fee to cancel. I decided to not bite the bullet and move from boreal lodge to coldfoot camp for my last night. I wish I had known then what I know now and booked my entire stay @ the boreal lodge. That place is AMAZING!!!

Day 5:
I headed back to fairbanks from Coldfoot camp. On the way down I stopped at the Yukon Camp for lunch (I had not stopped here on the way north). I was surprised at the fuel prices. The diesel prices here were almost $2.00 higher than at coldfoot camp (which was much further north on the Dalton...but oh well). I made it back to fairbanks. I had tested my mettle against the dalton and survived.

Day 6:
I made my way in a large triangle. I started in fairbanks and travelled SE to paxson where I started the Denali Hwy. I made my way across the denali hwy to cantwell and back north to fairbanks. It was a fairly long day but well worth it. I found the denali hwy more beautiful and enjoyable than the dalton. Some of the views were AMAZING!!! Approximately half way across the Denali Hwy, I stopped at this little hotel/lodge and ordered lunch. I timed my stop perfectly because the little old lady who owns the place had just finished making home-made minestrone soup. I ordered up a big bowl and earned the clean plate award. The lodge was set on a hill overlooking a beautiful vista w/a lake, mountains, etc. Picture perfect views all around.

Day 7:
I scheduled a ride-along w/Fairbanks PD. I am a LEO in TX so I enjoy meeting other law enforcement officers (and trading patches).
Today was a nice relaxing day. After the ride along I prepared myself to fly out the following morning.

Day 8:
I flew to Florida to spend a week visiting family (you know how family can be if you don't visit).


Let me know if you guys have any questions. I will be happy to answer anything I can.


Pics...because pictures or it didn't happen!!!!

IMG_5515.JPG

IMG_20150523_181000.jpg

IMG_5925.JPG

IMG_5938.JPG

Pano_0027.jpg

IMG_5669.JPG
 
Last edited:

trae

Adventurer
Awesome trip, on my list as well. How was a CB useful? Everyone seems to be pretty negative on CBs.
 

Maverick1701

Adventurer
Awesome trip, on my list as well. How was a CB useful? Everyone seems to be pretty negative on CBs.

Well up there cell phone service stops just outside of fairbanks. A CB is pretty much the only comms you will have unless you pack a sat phone. My CB made the dalton run much much easier, faster, and more enjoyable. From talking with various people before my trip (including the AST guy I know) it seemed that although a CB was not required, it was pretty much an unwritten rule that a person will have one in their vehicle. I also noticed that probably 80-90% of vehicles I passed (in fairbanks/on dalton/not on dalton) all were running CBs. CBs seemed much more common up there vs down here in the lower 48.

Here are a few examples of how a CB could be beneficial on the dalton:
- there are sections of the dalton (Atigun pass is one of many examples) where you have to call out on ch19 before you enter the pass/section. I am guessing this alerts trucks, work crews, etc that a vehicle is approaching.

- CB allows a person to holler at a truckers who (according to my Alaska State Troopers buddy) usually carry sat phones..if you have some emergency.

- The various camps (coltfoot camp/yukon camp/etc), oil pumping stations, and oil spill stations all monitor CB chatter. Some of the oil stations have medics, and some will bring ppl fuel for a charge (according to my alaska trooper buddy). AKDOT work crews also have CBs and can advise when safe to pass their equipment.

- There were some sections where I was stuck behind a semi (or a string of semis) and could not see the opposing highway due to the dust/hills/etc. I was able to call out and ask them to advise when the highway was clear for passing (they can see further since they are sitting up higher). This allowed me to pass semis and keep my pace vs being stuck behind the semis for hours.

- Also truckers can warn you (or vice versa) of approaching over-sized loads if you are nearing a tight switch back or some road that would hinder two vehicles from passing safely.
 

trae

Adventurer
Thanks for the explanation Maverick1701, that's very cool. Makes sense that once there are no cell towers yous till need to communicate with people. I wish cell phones worked like CBs sometimes :)
 

Wilbah

Adventurer
Great write up. I get that its not a serious "off road/4x4/rock crawling" adventure but an adventure nonetheless and one I want/need/must take! Thanks! The info on the other lodge is helpful too. All good info to know.
 

Bushcoat

one trail at a time
Great report!

Ive been to alaska (and yukon) twice and anticipate another trip or two if not more to see more of what Id missed.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,840
Messages
2,878,743
Members
225,393
Latest member
jgrillz94
Top