Fuel bowl delete and regulated return in your 7.3 van?

philos

Explorer
I'm thinking that since I'm tearing much of the top of my engine off to get to that wicked IPR valve, I may as well just ditch the factory fuel bowl for future easier maintenance.
Get some filter bases (one pre pump and one post pump), an adjustable Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, some AN fittings and hose. I think that's about it for a basic shopping list.
So who has done this to their 7.3 van? Pics? Advice?
I'd buy a kit, but there isn't one specific to the van that I can find. I feel like I'd be re-making half of a kit anyway, no?
Interweb threads seem to be missing info/photos specific to vans.
I've downloaded a PDF of the install instructions for one of the truck kits, and it was a good help, but I still feel like I need more to commit.
Help?
Thanks in advance :)


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ujoint

Supporting Sponsor
We've done a few using the Driven Diesel kit, have to change a few things but it works. Much easier with the body off and we did have to make some custom fuel lines. Don't have any pics since its something we've done in house only.
 

philos

Explorer
That's good to know you've got it figured out, seems simple enough on paper....
I'm planning on going the DIY route and I think I've got a shopping list for the hydraulic store for some fittings, etc:

Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (I'll prob use Aeromotive).
Gauge to read pressure.
2x filter housings (one pre pump and one post).
filters.
a bunch of 3/8 fuel hose.
6-AN "Y" or tee
some 6-AN straight, 45*, and 90* hose end fittings. (total of eight fittings)
1/8-NPT to 6-AN fittings for the four corners of the heads (two at 45* and two straight)
1/8-NPT to 6-AN fittings for the three ports on the adjustable fuel regulator.
a couple/few clamps to tie in the return line.

I'll also probably use the push-lock type AN fittings for ease of use.

Does that sound about right?
 

philos

Explorer
Did a little more sleuthing and it seems my parts list is about right, so I ordered a bunch of crap. Less than $400 so far for almost everything I'll need. I'm certain there will be a couple more items, I'll try and remember to update here.


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philos

Explorer
Much thanks everyone!
The build on diesel stop is pretty good, thanks!
I've read that other one here 89s, so thanks for that one too!
So far, I'm in it for $400
I bought a nice Aeromotive regulator 13129
Two filter bases 24770
A liquid-filled gauge (ebay special)
Two each 45* and straight 1/8npt to 6-AN
Eight straight push-lock 6-AN fittings
One 6-AN push lock 90*
One 6-AN push lock 45*
Some 6-AN fittings for the regulator
A crap-load of 3/8 hose
A bunch of the special fuel injection clamps
One 6-AN "Y-block" to feed the rear heads.

I still need some compression fittings for the filter setup, but I'm waiting to pull the pump and measure the lines before i buy.... so there will be an extra $20-40 there.
I think that's about it for now, I'll try and get pics as I go but I've already pulled a bunch of shtuff already....


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Vandy

Adventurer
Only thing I haven't heard you say is a fuel pump. Don't buy an eBay special! Buy an oe super duty pump. Trust me. Dave @ veggie garage in AZ built my set up. He does great work. Sells parts about as cheap as you can find. Might hit him up for a pump.
 

89s rule

Adventurer
Might I ask which items would be different for the mechanical pump conversion?
I haven't seen an itemized list for that on a van.
 

philos

Explorer
I've already got the electric fuel pump (it's a 2003), so I don't have the mechanical lifter pump.
As to the parts list for an older style, I'd assume it's much the same with the addition of an electro fuel pump to replace the mechanical one in the valley. I'd also hazard a guess that the factory electronic one I have would more or less be a bolt-in affair on the frame rails. Buy or make lines to attach it.


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philos

Explorer
Pics:
I've removed: upper radiator hose, a/c compressor, alternator, vacuum pump, bracket for vacuum pump and a/c compressor, fuel filter (duh), air intake assembly (pulled and plugged and tossed resonator ages ago), disconnected BOTH batteries, unplugged a bunch of stuff.
dbf37d6ab51e78da2e03ffe349d7b86e.jpg

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0396a01394598bf85cf9b7346f1baa6e.jpg


Here's where the fuel supply and return lines will go.
8d63ac1719f8b27a00eb4fcc6af09630.jpg

1d740d0c34d71913426f7a6ea365624e.jpg

8b772fe46d0e483ee82508763f8c0540.jpg

6e7db26b7b0e5b792ca51c73f95ae3a2.jpg


So long, annoying piece of stubborn engineering!
20dc0ef0acd3f06a5dbca76bae542942.jpg


And this pic, it's hard to see. You're looking under the turbo pedestal towards the front of the van. The round bit is the back of the HPOP, and just left of that is the main part of the IPR. The nut is still down in the valley somewheres...
6636fc146e26f237600111667cfe22b2.jpg


That's it for today. I'll be waiting on parts for a few days, so you'll have to be patient.


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Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
I understand the advantage to eliminating the Fuel Bowl, having rebuilt mine, but is there a simpler option to run a secondary filter, or eliminate the filter?

When I had my oil change done the grease monkeys told me the secondary filter has been bypassed. Would there normally be a fuel filter in addition to the one in the fuel Bowl?

BTW, 97 E350, 7.3 Powerstroke, Crestline Ambulance.
 

Abitibi

Explorer
I bypassed mine by removing the filter inside the housing and replaced it with marbles (to fill the volume inside the housing and not have it full of diesel). I installed a new heated filter head before the pump. (the otherfilter is for veggie)

uploadfromtaptalk1437555261232.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1437555502628.jpg

Works great but I'm still concerned down the road I could have the typical fuel bowl leak so I would still love to simply delete it.
 

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